Itse\u00e4ni harmittaa usein se ett\u00e4 vanhoja laatumateriaaleja ei en\u00e4\u00e4 valmisteta tai ett\u00e4 niiden laatua on kustannussyist\u00e4 heikonnettu.Toisaalta kun nykyisin k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 on kaikkialla moderni keskusl\u00e4mmitys niin monet vanhat materiaalit ovat usein my\u00f6s modernissa k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 aivan liian l\u00e4mpimi\u00e4. Mutta onko mit\u00e4\u00e4n keinoa jolla moinen suuntaus saataisiin loppumaan\u00a0ja vanhat laadukkaat vaatetuskankaat palaamaan kangaskauppojen valikoimiin my\u00f6s t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 Suomessa? Suuresta maailmastahan jotakin kivaa viel\u00e4 saattaa l\u00f6yty\u00e4, jos raaskii isoin postikuluin tilata. Vai ovatko sellaiset laadukkaammat materiaalit nyky\u00e4\u00e4n niin kalliita ylip\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n ettei kenell\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n ole niihin varaa? Oletko sin\u00e4 t\u00f6rm\u00e4nnyt jossakin viyellaan tai muihin erikoisiin vanhoihin kankaisiin? Viyellahan<\/a> on edelleen olemassa yrityksen\u00e4. Tajusin t\u00e4m\u00e4n kev\u00e4isell\u00e4 Englannin matkalla kun n\u00e4in\u00a0Viyellan liikkeit\u00e4. En kyll\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n tied\u00e4 ett\u00e4 onko valikoimissa en\u00e4\u00e4 ollenkaan viyella-kangasta.<\/p>\n PIENI TEKSTIILISANASTO<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Bemberg<\/strong><\/span> – tuotemerkki, puuvillan lintterist\u00e4 (puuvillansiemenen ymp\u00e4rill\u00e4 oleva lyhyt kuitu joka ei k\u00e4y kehr\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4ksi sellaisenaan)<\/strong><\/span> valmistettu selluloosakuitu When browsing vintage handcraft and fashion mags, you might bump into odd terms. Sometimes it’s a specific fabric quality or technique which us modern people have no idea of. Reasons are various, but most likely the technique is not needed anymore due to modern tehnology, fabric in question is not made anymore or it’s not even necessary to know the names of various fabrics these days. These kind of terms are kashadrap\u00a0and viyella, for example. And of course the law affects on the fiber markings. It used to be common to use the trademarks of fibers, like Trevira or Bemberg. Now law says the actual name of the fiber must be used instead.Most people probably don’t even care to know, but I am always interested in the little detail information on fabrics and clothes.<\/p>\n In many cases it might be impossible to find explanation for these terms online. That’s why I was happily surprised when I found one for viyella<\/a>\u00a0(original link only in finnish, but you can find more info here<\/a>)<\/strong><\/span>. \u00a0Finnish link leads to recent article about the history of viyella. Article is written by Ville Raivio who writes Keikari.com<\/a>, finnish website about classical men’s wear.<\/p>\n I am rather upset, that old good quality materials are not available anymore or the quality has been broad down due to cost cuts. On the other hand, with modern central heating, old warm materials are often way too warm for modern use. But is there any ways to stop this from happening and make the old quality fabrics return to the fabric shops? In some cases you might find something from abroad, but in Finland not that often. Or are those quality fabrics now so expensive to buy that no-one can afford them? Have you bumped into viyella or other specialized old fabrics? Viyella<\/a> still exists as a company. I realized this on our trip to England this summer, because I saw couple Viyella shops. Allthough I don’t know if they stock the viyella fabric anymore.<\/p>\n SMALL TEXTILE DICTIONARY<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Bemberg<\/strong><\/span> – trademark, cellulose fiber made of cotton lint\u00a0(fibers around cotton seed, which are not suitable for spinning as they are too short)
\nCrimplene<\/strong><\/span> – tuotemerkki, polyesterist\u00e4 valmistettua kreppilankaa, suosittua 60-luvulla
\nGrain-de-poudre<\/strong> <\/span>– eritt\u00e4in tihe\u00e4sidoksinen villakangas, tyypillisesti k\u00e4ytetty pukukankaana
\nKashadrap<\/strong><\/span> –\u00a0pehme\u00e4 toimikas-sidoksinen kashmir-kangas
\nMadepolam<\/strong><\/span> – (engl. madapolam)<\/strong><\/span> pehme\u00e4 ja eritt\u00e4in hieno palttinasidoksinen puuvillakangas, k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n mm. nen\u00e4liinoihin tai kirjontaan
\nMolleton, melleton<\/strong><\/span> – puuvillaflanelli
\nRadium silkki<\/strong><\/span> – 1920-luvulla muodikasta kiilt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 viskoosista tai silkist\u00e4 valmistettua palttinasidoksista kangasta
\nRatine<\/strong><\/span> – nyppyisest\u00e4 ratine-langasta l\u00f6yh\u00e4sti palttinasidoksella kudottu puku- tai takkikangas, pinnaltaan ep\u00e4tasainen bouclen tyyppinen kangas
\nSarssi<\/strong><\/span> – (engl. sarsenet)<\/strong><\/span> palttina- tai toimikassidoksinen puolivillainen kangas, loimi puuvillaa tai pellavaa, my\u00f6s silkkinen \u00a0tai puolivillainen vuorikangas
\nSheviot<\/strong><\/span> – alunperin cheviot-lampaasta saadusta villasta valmistettua kangasta, nykyisin my\u00f6s muista villoista ja tekokuiduista
\nSorsetti<\/strong><\/span> – (engl. georgette)<\/strong> <\/span>l\u00e4pikuultava, laskeutuva kreppikangas, usein viskoosista tai polyesterist\u00e4, suosittua 40-luvulla ja 90-luvulla
\nTeryleeni<\/strong> <\/span>– (engl. Terylene)<\/strong><\/span> tuotemerkki, polyesterist\u00e4 valmistettu kangas
\nT<\/strong>revira<\/strong><\/span> – polyesteri-kuidun tuotemerkki
\nViyella<\/strong><\/span> – villasta ja puuvillasta (55%\/45%)<\/strong><\/span> valmistettu l\u00e4mmin ja kest\u00e4v\u00e4 vaatetuskangas<\/p><\/blockquote>\n![\"inenglish\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/inenglish.gif?resize=214%2C100\")
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\nCheviot<\/span> –<\/span><\/strong>\u00a0fabric originally made of cheviot sheep wool, now also from other wool and man made materials
\nCrimplene<\/strong><\/span> – trademark, crepe yarn made of polyester, popular in the 60’s
\n<\/span>Georgette<\/span> <\/strong>– sheer, well draping crepe fabric, often made of rayon or polyester, popular in 40’s and 90’s
\n<\/strong><\/span><\/span>Grain-de-poudre<\/strong><\/span> – tightly woven wool fabric, typically used in suits
\nKashadrap<\/strong><\/span> – fine and soft cashmere twill
\nMadapolam<\/strong><\/span> – soft and very fine plain weave cotton fabric, used for handkerchiefs or embroidery
\nMolleton\u00a0– <\/strong>cotton flannel<\/span><\/span>
\nRadium silk<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0–\u00a0lustrous fabric made in plain weave from rayon or silk, fashionable in 1920’s
\nRatin\u00e9<\/strong><\/span> – plain weave fabric made from ratin\u00e9 yarns, nubbly and uneven surface, similar to boucl\u00e9
\nSarsenet<\/strong><\/span> – fine plain or twill weave silk fabric, used for lining or dresses, also half wool plain or twill weave fabric
\nTerylene<\/strong><\/span> – trademark, polyester fiber and fabric
\nTrevira<\/strong><\/span> – trademark for polyester
\nViyella<\/strong><\/span> – warm and durable fabric made by mixing wool and cotton (55%\/45%)<\/strong><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n
![\"viyella1\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/viyella1.jpg?resize=600%2C792\")
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