{"id":8576,"date":"2014-12-22T10:01:44","date_gmt":"2014-12-22T08:01:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=8576"},"modified":"2025-04-04T11:20:39","modified_gmt":"2025-04-04T08:20:39","slug":"2212-vintage-fashion-taysvino-leikkaus-bias-cut","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=8576","title":{"rendered":"22\/12 Vintage Fashion: T\u00e4ysvino leikkaus \/ Bias cut"},"content":{"rendered":"

Montaa joulukalenterin luukkua ei ole j\u00e4ljell\u00e4. Olin suunnitellut tekev\u00e4ni\u00a0my\u00f6s jotain jouluisia askarteluja, mutta tuo \u00e4rsytt\u00e4v\u00e4 blogin katkos vei energiat enk\u00e4 sitten saanutkaan mit\u00e4\u00e4n askarreltua. Sellaiset nyt j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t t\u00e4m\u00e4n vuoden osalta ja kalenteri onkin ollut sen sijaan\u00a0varsin vintage-painotteinen. Voitte kuitenkin edelleen k\u00e4yd\u00e4 inspiroitumassa jouluisesta Pinterest-kansiostani<\/a> ja ottaa viimehetken jouluvinkit k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n.<\/p>\n

22. kalenterinluukku tarinoi muodin historiasta hieman erilaiselta kantilta. T\u00e4ysvino leikkaus oli muodin maailmassa kutakuinkin yht\u00e4 mullistava keksint\u00f6 kuin vetoketjun keksiminen. Voisi luulla ett\u00e4 kyll\u00e4h\u00e4n nyt t\u00e4ysvinoon on osattu vaatteita leikata iankaiken, mutta eip\u00e4 vain olekaan.<\/p>\n

Muotisuunnittelija Madeleine Vionnet<\/a> keksi t\u00e4ysvinon leikkauksen 1920-luvun alussa. Madame Vionnet oli tunnettu siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 h\u00e4n suunnitteli l\u00e4hes kaiken pelk\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n muotoilemalla kangasta mallinuken p\u00e4\u00e4lle. Ennen h\u00e4nen keksint\u00f6\u00e4\u00e4n, t\u00e4ysvinoa leikkausta k\u00e4ytettiin ainoastaan liehukkeissa ja kauluksissa. Kokonaisen vaatteen leikkaaminen t\u00e4ysvinoon langansuuntaan oli sik\u00e4li mullistavaa, ett\u00e4 kankaat laskeutuvat t\u00e4ysin eri tavalla t\u00e4ysvinoon leikattuna ja ne istuvat vartalolla aivan eri tavoin. T\u00e4ysvino leikkaus mahdollisti eritt\u00e4in vartalonmy\u00f6t\u00e4isten vaatteiden valmistamisen ennen elastaanin\u00a0keksimist\u00e4. T\u00e4ysvinoon leikkaamalla voidaan valmistaa my\u00f6s istuva puku ilman napitusta tai vetoketjua, koska vino langansuunta antaa vaatteelle hieman joustoa.<\/p>\n

Vaikka Mme Vionnet kokeili t\u00e4ysvinoja leikkauksia jo 20-luvun alussa, t\u00e4yteen loistoonsa tekniikka nousi vasta 30-luvulla. Muutkin muotisuunnittelijat alkoivat hy\u00f6dynt\u00e4\u00e4 Vionnet’n keksint\u00f6\u00e4. 30-luvun muodissa tunnusomaisinta ovatkin t\u00e4ysvinoon leikatut vartaloa my\u00f6t\u00e4ilev\u00e4t\u00a0iltapuvut ja\u00a0arkivaatteissa suoran ja t\u00e4ysvinon leikkauksen luomat, erityisesti ruudullisissa ja raidallisissa kankaissa k\u00e4ytetyt graafiset ilmeet. Vinot leikkaukset jatkuivat suosittuina viel\u00e4 40-luvullakin.\u00a070-luvulla vino leikkaus teki pienimuotoisen paluun ruutuhameissa.<\/p>\n

Moderneissa vaatteissa t\u00e4ysvinoja leikkauksia ei mielest\u00e4ni hy\u00f6dynnet\u00e4 riitt\u00e4v\u00e4sti. T\u00e4m\u00e4 johtuu osaltaan varmasti siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 t\u00e4ysvinot leikkaukset viev\u00e4t huomattavasti enemm\u00e4n kangasta ja hukkapalat ovat paljon isompia kuin suoraan langansuuntaan leikatessa. Ja toisaalta, trikoon ja monenlaisten elastaani-kankaiden\u00a0yleistytty\u00e4 ei t\u00e4ysvinoa leikkausta en\u00e4\u00e4 juurikaan tarvita joustonkaan vuoksi. Elastaani ja trikoo kun ovat jo itsess\u00e4\u00e4n joustavia ja edullisempia. Ohessa muutama kuva vaatteista joissa olen itse k\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt t\u00e4ysvinoa leikkausta. Pinterest-kansiostani<\/a> l\u00f6yd\u00e4t lis\u00e4\u00e4 ideoita.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

There is not many Christmas Calendar doors left. I had planned to make some chrismassy crafts too, but that annoying blog downtime took my energy away, and I didn’t feel like crafting. So that is now out of the calendar, instead it’s been quite vintage-orientated this year. But you can still go and get inspiration from my Pinterest-board<\/a> about Christmas stuff. Good chance to get your last minute ideas.<\/p>\n

22nd door on our calendar reveals some details about fashion history, on different angle. Bias cut was pretty much as revolutionary thing in fashion as\u00a0inventing the zip. You could think that bias cut has been used in clothes forever, but no it’s not.<\/p>\n

Fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet<\/a> invented bias cut in the early 20’s. Madame Vionnet was known for her technique to design almost everything just draping the fabric around mannequin. Before her invention, bias cut was only used in flares, flounces and collars. Cutting the whole garment in bias was revolutionary, because fabrics drape and hang very differently then and they also fit on the body very differently. Bias cut made it possible to make very figure hugging garments before the invention of elastane. With bias cut it’s also possible to make figure hugging clothes without buttoning or zip, because bias cut gives some stretchyness to the garment.<\/p>\n

Even though Mme Vionnet experimented with bias cut already in early 20’s, technique\u00a0became to it’s full bloom in the 1930’s. Other designers also took advantage on Vionnet’s invention. So in the 30’s fashion the most prominent look was bias cut, in figure hugging elaborate evening gowns and in everyday garments using the graphic look and contrast between straight and bias cut, especially in plaid, check and stripe fabrics. Bias cut was very popular still in the 40’s. In 70’s bias cut made tiny comeback with plaid skirts.<\/p>\n

In modern fashion bias cut isn’t utilized as much as they could. I think it’s probably because bias cut takes much more fabric and leaves larger\u00a0leftover pieces than cutting along\u00a0grainline. Also the bias cut is not needed anymore for the comfort, when elastane-fibers and jerseys give the desired comfort much easier and cheaper. Here are couple photos of my garments utilizing the bias cut. You can find more inspiration on my Pinterest<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"wooljacket\"<\/a>
\nItse tehty liivimekko jossa miehusta ja tasku t\u00e4ysvinoon leikatut. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nSelfmade pinafore with bias cut bodice and pocket.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"ofelia2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

40-luvun tyyliin valmistettu puku. Helma, vy\u00f6 ja miehustan kaarroke t\u00e4ysvinot. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n40’s style modern dress. Skirt, belt and\u00a0neckline in bias cut.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"fair3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Alushameissa t\u00e4ysvino leikkaus antoi mukavuutta.<\/strong><\/span>
\nItse tekem\u00e4ni t\u00e4ysvinoon leikattu silkkinen alusmekko. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nUndergarments became more comfortable with bias cut.<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nBias cut silk slip dress I made myseld.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Montaa joulukalenterin luukkua ei ole j\u00e4ljell\u00e4. Olin suunnitellut tekev\u00e4ni\u00a0my\u00f6s jotain jouluisia askarteluja, mutta tuo \u00e4rsytt\u00e4v\u00e4 blogin katkos vei energiat enk\u00e4 sitten saanutkaan mit\u00e4\u00e4n askarreltua. Sellaiset nyt j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t t\u00e4m\u00e4n vuoden osalta ja kalenteri onkin ollut sen sijaan\u00a0varsin vintage-painotteinen. Voitte kuitenkin edelleen k\u00e4yd\u00e4 inspiroitumassa jouluisesta Pinterest-kansiostani ja ottaa viimehetken jouluvinkit k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n. 22. kalenterinluukku tarinoi muodin historiasta hieman… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5937,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Christmas Calendar door 22: Short history of bias cut","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[155,150,120,35],"tags":[219,214,112,235],"class_list":{"0":"post-8576","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-inspiraatio","8":"category-pukuhistoria","9":"category-tekstiileista","10":"category-vintage","11":"tag-christmas-calendar-2014","12":"tag-fashion-history","13":"tag-inspirational","14":"tag-vintage","16":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/wooljacket.jpg?fit=450%2C639","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-2ek","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8576","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=8576"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8576\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19339,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8576\/revisions\/19339"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/5937"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=8576"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=8576"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=8576"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}