{"id":8044,"date":"2014-07-21T12:38:42","date_gmt":"2014-07-21T09:38:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=8044"},"modified":"2014-07-21T20:44:00","modified_gmt":"2014-07-21T17:44:00","slug":"diy-helppo-kesamekko-diy-easy-summer-dress","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=8044","title":{"rendered":"DIY: Helppo kes\u00e4mekko \/ DIY: Easy summer dress"},"content":{"rendered":"

Koska Restaurantakuvien l\u00e4pi k\u00e4yminen t\u00f6kkii viel\u00e4kin niin otetaanpas t\u00e4h\u00e4n v\u00e4liin t\u00e4mm\u00f6inen kes\u00e4inen kevyt tutoriaali. Itseh\u00e4n olen sit\u00e4 mielt\u00e4 ett\u00e4 kes\u00e4mekkoja ei oikein voi olla liikaa joten semmoinen olisi t\u00e4ss\u00e4 nyt tulossa. L\u00f6ysin t\u00e4m\u00e4n puuvillakreppisen vintage-kankaan kirppikselt\u00e4 mutta yht\u00e4 hyvin t\u00e4h\u00e4n voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 moderniakin kangasta. Puuvillakreppi (seersucker)<\/strong><\/span> on kes\u00e4mekkoihin oivallinen materiaali koska sit\u00e4 ei juuri tarvitse silitt\u00e4\u00e4. Yhteen aikaan se oli suosittu materiaali my\u00f6s petivaatteissa. Herkk\u00e4ihoisimpia kankaan karhea pinta voi tosin hieman \u00e4rsytt\u00e4\u00e4.<\/p>\n

Kaikkein yksinkertaisin kes\u00e4mekko valmistuu suorakaiteen muotoisesta kangaspalasta \u00a0(leveys n. 130-150 cm, korkeus noin 100-130 cm oman maun mukaan)<\/strong><\/span> joka ommellaan renkaaksi yhdist\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 lyhyemm\u00e4t sivut. Renkaan yl\u00e4- ja alareuna huolitellaan p\u00e4\u00e4rmeell\u00e4 \u00a0ja renkaan toiseen p\u00e4\u00e4h\u00e4n ommellaan kuminauharypytyst\u00e4 n. 20-40 cm korkuiseksi joustavaksi yl\u00e4osaksi. Rypytyksen valmistaminen tapahtuu siten ett\u00e4 koneella ommeltavaa kumilankaa puolataan k\u00e4sin ompelukoneen puolalle samalla sit\u00e4 venytt\u00e4en. Valitse kumilangan paksuudeksi 1mm, se kest\u00e4\u00e4 parhaiten ja rypytt\u00e4\u00e4 hieman tiiviimm\u00e4nkin puuvillan. Sitten ommellaan suoraa tikki\u00e4 niin ett\u00e4 alalankana on tuo kumilanka ja yl\u00e4lankana tavallinen ompelulanka. Tikki ommellaan renkaan muotoiseen kankaaseen spiraalimaisena ompeleena niin ett\u00e4 se kiert\u00e4\u00e4 kangasrengasta yhte\u00e4 pitk\u00e4n\u00e4 ompeleena, kunnes saavutetaan haluttu rypytyksen korkeus. P\u00e4\u00e4tell\u00e4\u00e4n molemmat p\u00e4\u00e4t huolellisesti jotta rypytys ei p\u00e4\u00e4se purkautumaan. Kumilanka rypytt\u00e4\u00e4 kankaan automaattisesti. Spiraalikerrosten et\u00e4isyys toisistaan voi olla noin 1-2 cm. Mit\u00e4 l\u00e4hemp\u00e4n\u00e4 kerrokset ovat toisiaan, sit\u00e4 tiukempi rypytys on. Kun rypytys on valmis lis\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n tarvittaessa nauhat olkaimiksi. Ja tadaa, mekko on valmis!<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

I just can’t get myself around going through photos from Restauranta swap meet so let’s have a little bit of a tutorial. I personally think that there is never too much summer dresses, so let’s make one. I found this vintage seersucker cotton from fleamarket. You can use what ever modern fabric you like. Cotton seersucker is perfect for hot weather dresses, because you don’t have to iron it. At one point it was very popular in bed sheets. However the rough surface of the material might be irritating to those with very sensitive skin.<\/p>\n

The most simple dress requires square piece of fabric<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>(width about 130-150 cm, hight around 100-130 cm, depending on your desired length)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0<\/span>which you sew into a tube by combining shorter edges. Top and bottom edges of the fabric tube \u00a0must be trimmed, with your desired method. On the other end of the tube is now turned into elastic ruching with elastic sewing thread. Hight of the ruching is about 20-40 cm. Spool elasticated sewing thread on the bobbin by hand, stretch the thread as you go. Use that as under thread and ordinary sewing thread on top. Then sew spiral shaped stitch starting from the edge of the tube and going around and around the tube in straight line as long as \u00a0you reach the required hight for ruching. Distance between lines can be about 1-2 cm. The closer the lines are, the tighter the ruching will be. Secure both ends of the ruching stitch properly. When you have done this, you can add shoulder straps and tadah, dress is finished!<\/span><\/p>\n

\"sdresstuto1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Miehustan kaava voi olla hyvin yksinkertainen. Takakappale vasemmalla.\/<\/strong><\/span>
\nPattern for the bodice can be very simple. Backside on the left.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa valmistin kuitenkin mekon ilman rypytyskuminauhaa. Yl\u00e4osaksi kelpaa mik\u00e4 tahansa istuva topin tai mekon kaava joka katkaistaan vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lt\u00e4. Helman kaava on suorakaiteen muotoinen. Ja n\u00e4in se k\u00e4y: J\u00e4ljenn\u00e4 yl\u00e4osan kaava olemassa olevasta kaavasta ja katkaise se vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n linjalta (kapein kohta kaavassa, usein merkitty hakkimerkein)<\/strong><\/span>. Leikkaa kappaleet kankaalta, etukappale taitteelta ja takakappale reunasta niin ett\u00e4 keskelle taakse j\u00e4\u00e4 2-3 cm saumanvaraa vetoketjua varten. Jos kaavaa pit\u00e4\u00e4 viel\u00e4 sovittaa, j\u00e4t\u00e4 reilummin saumanvaraa (esim 3 cm)<\/strong><\/span>. P\u00e4\u00e4ntiell\u00e4 ja alareunassa saumanvaraksi riitt\u00e4\u00e4 sentti.<\/p>\n

Helman koko on itse m\u00e4\u00e4ritelt\u00e4viss\u00e4. Mit\u00e4 leve\u00e4mpi suorakaide, sit\u00e4 enemm\u00e4n rypytyst\u00e4\u00a0(tai laskoksia)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4 ja mit\u00e4 korkeampi suorakaide, sit\u00e4 pidempi helma. T\u00e4st\u00e4 omastani tuli nyt sen kokoinen kuin mihin kangas riitti, eli aika pitk\u00e4, mutta ei kamalan muhkea. Omassa mekossani helmapalan koko n. \u00a080 x 200 cm.<\/p>\n

However, this is not the dress I’m making this time. For the top you can use which ever simple, fitted top or dress pattern, which you cut from the waistline. Pattern for the skirt is rectangular. And here we go: Trace the top pattern and cut it from the waistline\u00a0(narrowest point on the pattern, usually marked on the pattern)<\/strong><\/span>. Cut pieces from your fashion or vintage fabric, front piece on the fabric fold, back piece on the edge. Leave enough seam allowance at the back for sewing a zip, about 2-3 cm. If \u00a0you need to do some fitting, leave wider seam allowances on sides and on shoulders. Neckline and waistline don’t need more than 1 cm.<\/em><\/p>\n

Size of the skirt you can decide yourself. The wider the rectangular, more ruching\u00a0(or pleats)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0you will get. The higher the rectangular, the longer the hem. Mine is the size there was fabric enough for, so quite long, but not very wide. Piece for my dress skirt is about \u00a080 x 200 cm.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"sdresstuto2\"<\/p>\n

Muotolaskos valmiina \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nFinished dart<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Ompele muotolaskokset etu ja takakappaleella. Ompele miehustan olkasaumat ja sivusaumat. Huolittele olkien ja sivusaumojen saumanvarat. Huolittele my\u00f6s keskitaka-saumanvarat (vetoketjun kohta)<\/strong><\/span>. Huolittele helmakappaleen lyhyet sivut, aseta ne oikeat puolet vastakkain ja ompele 2 cm et\u00e4isyydelt\u00e4 reunasta. Muista j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 yl\u00e4reunaan halkio vetoketjua varten.\u00a0Helmapala on nyt renkaana.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Sew darts on back and front. Sew shoulder and side seams on the bodice. Overlock (or ziczac)<\/strong><\/span> shoulder and side seam allowances. Overlock also the center back seam allowances (where the zip will be)<\/strong><\/span>. Overlock the short ends of skirt and sew them together right sides towards each other. Remember to leave a slit on the upper end for zip.\u00a0<\/em>Now hem is forming a tube.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

\"cottondress2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00a0Rypytetty helman vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6, nurja puoli. \/
\n<\/strong><\/span>Ruched hem waistline, reverse side.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Ompele rypytyslangat hameosan yl\u00e4reunaan ja rypyt\u00e4. Vaihtoehtoisesti voit my\u00f6s tehd\u00e4 laskoksia, litte\u00e4mm\u00e4n lookin aikaansaamiseksi. P\u00e4\u00e4rm\u00e4\u00e4 helma haluamallasi tavalla.<\/p>\n

Sew ruching stitches on the upper end and pull to create ruching. Optionally you can pleat the skirt fro more sleek and flat look at waist. Trim the hem with your chosen method.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"sdresstuto3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Kapea vinokantti k\u00e4dentiell\u00e4, hihalipare miehustan ja kantin v\u00e4liss\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nBiastape on armhole, “sleeve” between bodice and biastape.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"sdresstuto4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"cottondress3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Valmis p\u00e4\u00e4ntien ja k\u00e4dentien kanttaus. \/ <\/strong><\/span>
\nFinished trimming on neckline and armholes.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Yhdist\u00e4 helma ja miehusta toisiinsa suoralla tikill\u00e4, huolittele saumanvarat. P\u00e4\u00e4n- ja k\u00e4dentiet voit huolitella haluamallasi tavalla, esim saumurointi ja kapea k\u00e4\u00e4nne ovat ihan jees. Itse k\u00e4ytin t\u00e4ss\u00e4 kapeaa vinokaitaletta joka ei n\u00e4y p\u00e4\u00e4lle p\u00e4in. Vinokaitale ommellaan p\u00e4\u00e4ntielle oikealle puolelle, tehd\u00e4\u00e4n saumanvaraan aukileikkaukset, k\u00e4\u00e4nnet\u00e4\u00e4n kaitale nurjalle ja taitetaan saumanvarat kaitaleen sis\u00e4\u00e4n. Tikataan kaitale kiinni vajaan sentin et\u00e4isyydelt\u00e4 reunasta. Itse lis\u00e4sin olalle viel\u00e4 pienet hihamaiset lipareet. Ne ovat suorakaiteen muotoiset pienet palat jotka on p\u00e4\u00e4rm\u00e4tty ymp\u00e4ri. Kiinnitin lipareet paikoilleen ennen k\u00e4dentien vinokaitaleen ompelua.<\/p>\n

Combine the hem and bodice together, overlock the seam allowances. You can trim the neckline and armholes the way you like, overlock and narrow fold are quite acceptable. I used narrow bias tape for trimming. Sew bias trim on the right side of the neckline, cut little tacks on the seam allowance, fold bias trim to the reverse side and tuck the seam allowances under the trim. Top stitch to place about 0,7-1 cm from the edge. I also added little sleeve-like pieces on the shoulder. They are just little rectangular pieces which are trimmed around the edges. I did that before sewing the bias trim on the armholes.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"cottondress1\"
\nVetoketju valmiina. \/ Finished zip. <\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Ompele lopuksi vetoketju taakse. Vetoketjun voi ommella my\u00f6s sivusaumaan halutessaan.<\/p>\n

Finally stitch the zip in place. You can also put zip on the sideseam.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

\"sdresstuto7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Valmis kolttu. Aprikoin viel\u00e4 taskujen mahdollisuutta. Olisin<\/strong><\/span>
\nhalunnut laittaa sivusaumataskut, mutta helmassa ei ole sivusaumoja… \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nFinished dress. I’m still pondering about pockets. I would have<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nwanted sideseam pockets, but the skirt doesn’t have sideseams…<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"sdresstuto8\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"sdresstuto9\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Koska Restaurantakuvien l\u00e4pi k\u00e4yminen t\u00f6kkii viel\u00e4kin niin otetaanpas t\u00e4h\u00e4n v\u00e4liin t\u00e4mm\u00f6inen kes\u00e4inen kevyt tutoriaali. Itseh\u00e4n olen sit\u00e4 mielt\u00e4 ett\u00e4 kes\u00e4mekkoja ei oikein voi olla liikaa joten semmoinen olisi t\u00e4ss\u00e4 nyt tulossa. L\u00f6ysin t\u00e4m\u00e4n puuvillakreppisen vintage-kankaan kirppikselt\u00e4 mutta yht\u00e4 hyvin t\u00e4h\u00e4n voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 moderniakin kangasta. Puuvillakreppi (seersucker) on kes\u00e4mekkoihin oivallinen materiaali koska sit\u00e4 ei juuri tarvitse… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":8184,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"DIY: Easy sun dress","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[8,27,155,7],"tags":[232,112,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-8044","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-diy","8":"category-evilompelee","9":"category-inspiraatio","10":"category-projektit","11":"tag-diy","12":"tag-inspirational","13":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","15":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/sdresstuto9.jpg?fit=600%2C863","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-25K","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8044","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=8044"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8044\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8220,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8044\/revisions\/8220"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/8184"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=8044"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=8044"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=8044"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}