{"id":76,"date":"2008-10-06T04:13:00","date_gmt":"2008-10-06T04:13:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=76"},"modified":"2013-10-28T10:49:14","modified_gmt":"2013-10-28T07:49:14","slug":"jazz-klubien-flapper","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=76","title":{"rendered":"Jazz-klubien flapper"},"content":{"rendered":"


\nT\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n perehdymme 20-luvun pukuhistoriaan. K\u00e4yt\u00e4n edelleen pohjana jo aiemmin mainittua<\/a> puku- ja tyylihistorian kokoelmaani. L\u00e4hteit\u00e4 ei edelleenk\u00e4\u00e4n ole olemassa joten krediitit menev\u00e4t cyber-avaruuteen. Pahoittelen. Alunperin en ollut aikonut laittaa mukaan kokoelmaan liitt\u00e4mi\u00e4ni omia piirustuksia mutta koska pid\u00e4n t\u00e4st\u00e4 20-luvun kuvasta niin paljon niin laitan nyt ainakin sen mukaan, katsotaan muita piirroksia sitten ihan tilanteen mukaan. Mutta menn\u00e4\u00e4np\u00e4 asiaan.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>20-luvun tyylin tunnistaa helposti. Silhuetti oli suorakaiteen muotoinen ja v\u00e4lj\u00e4. Tekokuituja oli markkinoilla edelleen kovin v\u00e4h\u00e4n joten materiaalit olivat nykymittapuun mukaan ylellisi\u00e4: silkkisifonkia, erivahvuisia villakankaita, samettia, brocadia jne.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> Voimakkaasti 20-luvun pukeutumistyyliin, mutta my\u00f6s sisustukseen ja arkkitehtuuriin vaikutti Egypti. 1923 tehtiin merkitt\u00e4v\u00e4 l\u00f6yt\u00f6, Tutankhamonin upea hauta. Egyptologian suosio oli huipussaan kulta-aarteen my\u00f6t\u00e4 ja se n\u00e4kyi my\u00f6s vaatteiden kuvioinneissa, huonekaluissa ja muissa koristuksissa. Taiteet vaikuttivat voimakkaasti muotiin. 20-luvulla kehittynyt taidesuuntaus Art Deco ihannoi modernia lookia ja teollista tuotantoa. Vaikka koristeellisuus oli viel\u00e4 muotia ainakin juhlapukeutumisessa, oli l\u00e4ht\u00f6laukaus pelkistetymp\u00e4\u00e4 funktionalismia kohti annettu.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>Nykyp\u00e4iv\u00e4n mittapuulla 20-luvun vaatteet eiv\u00e4t n\u00e4yt\u00e4 kovin v\u00e4rikk\u00e4ilt\u00e4. Ensimm\u00e4inen laboratoriossa kehitetty kangasv\u00e4ri keksittiin vasta 1850-luvulla eik\u00e4 niiden kehitys ollut 20-luvulla viel\u00e4 aivan huipussaan. K\u00e4ytettiin edelleen paljon luonnosta saatavia v\u00e4rej\u00e4 joiden s\u00e4vymaailma oli hyvin rajallinen.<\/span>
\n\"\"<\/a>Miesten asuissa suurimmat muutokset ovat lahkeiden leveydess\u00e4 ja takin tiukkuudessa. Leve\u00e4lahkeiset oxfordit edelsiv\u00e4t 30-luvun alussa muotiin tulevaa zoot-pukua.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>Kosmetiikkateollisuus pyr\u00e4hti k\u00e4yntiin rys\u00e4yksell\u00e4. Edellisen vuosikymmenen haparoivista itsetehdyist\u00e4 meikeist\u00e4 oltiin jo tultu teolliseen tuotantoon ja laajaan tuotevalikoimaan. Elokuvien yleistyess\u00e4 filmit\u00e4htien tyyli\u00e4 matkittiin. Elokuvateollisuuden alkumetreill\u00e4 tekniikka oli alkeellista ja valaistus usein onnetonta. Siksi elokuvissa sek\u00e4 miesten ett\u00e4 naisten meikit olivat hyvin voimakkaita erottuakseen kunnolla. Jotta kasvojen ilmeet erottuisivat oli kasvot meikattava valkoiseksi mutta silm\u00e4t, kulmat ja suu tummaksi. Naiset yrittiv\u00e4t arkimeikeiss\u00e4\u00e4n j\u00e4ljitell\u00e4 valkokankaalla n\u00e4kemi\u00e4\u00e4n tyylej\u00e4. Kasvojen yleisilme oli surumielinen ja pieni suppusuu kuin murjottavan lapsen. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Oma n\u00e4kemykseni 20-luvun meikkityylist\u00e4.<\/span><\/span>
\nMy vision of 20’s make up.<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\"\"<\/a>Rusketus ei ollut muodissa 20-luvulla.<\/span><\/span>
\nTan wasn’t popular in 20’s.<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nENGLISH SUMMARY<\/span>
\n
\nWomens clothing<\/span>
\nAfter First World War women started working outside home and started earning their own money.They wanted to look good. Especially because after war there was 4 times more women than men, so they wanted to stand out to make a match. After depressive wartime people wanted to have fun and celebrate. New more relaxed and practical outfits were created. Jazz became popular and people wanted to dance, so party clothing and shoes must be suitable for dancing. Light materials were comfortable when dancing and also rather revealing.<\/span><\/p>\n

Silhuet of 20’s was loose, rather straight and squared. Waist was lowered, hems were shorter. In evening dresses hem could be even above knee. Pleats were popular because they allowed material to move when person was moving and that felt comfortable. Jersey continued in the lead since Coco Chanel introduced it to daywear in 1910’s. Popular accessories were plumes, long pearl necklaces, cigarette-holders, lipsticks, headbands and high heeled dancing shoes.
\nHats became like pots, covering whole head and you could barely see face under them. Day clothing were much more simpler and easier to make even yourself. Women’s Fashion Institute created pattern for One hour dress, which you were supposed to sew in one hour.<\/p>\n

Men’s clothing<\/span>
\nBiggest changes in mens clothing happened in width of trouser legs and tightness of jacket. Informal knickerbockers were very popular especially among students. Trousers with wide leg, “bags”, became popular around 1925. Wide “oxford”-trousers were prelude to loose zoot suit that saw the daylight in the early 30’s. If Paris was fashion Mecca for women, London was that to men. Savile Row was the place (and still is) to get the best bespoke suit and magazines in London presented the best mens fashion at that time.<\/p>\n

Hair and makeup <\/span>
\nWomens hairdo changed a lot. Women wanted to feel free and cutting hair short represented the freedom. Most popular style was bob haircut, straightened or with waves. New style was sexy and scandalous. In some places it was even forbidden. Short sleek hairdo suited best under tight cloche hats.<\/p>\n

Make up industry had launched big time by the beginning of 20’s and variety on producs was already massive. Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein were competing of customers with their latest invention, waterproof mascara. They both claim they were first to invent it. Coco Chanel created her trademark perfume, Chanel no 5.<\/p>\n

Complexion was very fair, almost pale, no matter what your own colour was. Popular eyeshadows were poison green, black, dark lilac, brown and turqoise. Liners were heavy and surrounded the whole eye. Because of the foundings of Tutankhamen grave, everything egyptian was in fashion. In make up and in clothing, but also in interior decoration and architecture and desing.<\/p>\n

Blush wasn’t considered sinfull anymore so women wore lots of it. It was supposed to be on the tip of cheekbone and circular spot without any fade out on the edges. There were already lots of different nail polish shades, unfortunately they weren’t very durable. One popular style, so called “Paris nails”, was to paint nail edges in dark wine and center with light pink. Lips were supposed to look to have constant pout. Women draw their lips to look smaller. Most wanted colours were dark wine and chestnut. Clara Bow was the “IT-GIRL” and everybody wante to have lips like hers. It was also popular to add lipstick in public. You were supposed to put about three layers of mascara to make perfect affect. Eyebrows were preferably very narrow and turned towards cheek at the outer end.<\/p>\n

Designers of 20’s:<\/span>
\nCoco Chanel
\nJeanne Lanvin
\nEdward Molyneux
\nCaroline Reboux<\/p>\n

Idols:<\/span>
\nLouise Brooks
\nClara Bow
\nIrenen Castle
\nJosephine Baker
\nPola Negri
\nGreta Garbo
\nHarrold Lloyd
\nGloria Swanson
\nRudolph Valentino
\nCharlie Chaplin
\n
\n<\/span><\/p>\n