30-luvulla kun filmiteollisuuden kultakausi pyr\u00e4hti lentoon Hollywoodissa, paikallinen kosmetiikkamyyj\u00e4 Max Factor alkoi kehitt\u00e4\u00e4 kosmetiikkaa elokuvia varten. H\u00e4n oli jo siin\u00e4 vaiheessa varsin menestynyt alallaan, eik\u00e4 h\u00e4n ollut tyytyv\u00e4inen jo tarjolla oleviin “greasepaint”-tuotteisiin. Toimiakseen paremmin elokuvamaskeerauksessa Factor halusi meikeilt\u00e4 tasaisempaa laatua, pehme\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4 levittyvyytt\u00e4 ja ohuempia kerroksia. 1923 (tosin l\u00e4hteist\u00e4 riippuen on mainittu my\u00f6s vuosi 1914)<\/strong> h\u00e4n toi markkinoille n\u00e4yttelij\u00f6ille tarkoitetun pehme\u00e4mm\u00e4n greasepaintin, jonka piti k\u00e4ytt\u00e4yty\u00e4 paremmin l\u00e4hikuvissa ja elokuvavalaistuksessa, sek\u00e4 sopia tietynlaiselle elokuvafilmille. N\u00e4m\u00e4 teatteri- ja elokuvameikit olivat lopulta erilaisten laajamittaisten testien ja kehityksen kautta pohjana kuluttajille suunniteltuun meikkisarjaan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n 1930-luvun lopulla MaxFactor toi markkinoille mullistavan PanCake-meikkipohjan joka oli t\u00e4ysin uudenlainen laatuaan. Se vastasi kutakuinkin moderneja meikkipuutereita. Pan cake tuli levitt\u00e4\u00e4 kostealla sienell\u00e4 ja se vaati alleen kosteusvoidetta, jotta iho ei alkanut kirist\u00e4\u00e4. Alun alkaen se kehitettiin elokuvateollisuuden tarpeisiin, mutta levisi tietysti hyvin nopeasti filmit\u00e4hti\u00e4 ihailevien naisten k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n. Se oli jotain mit\u00e4 ei oltu koskaan ennen n\u00e4hty ja naiset ihastuivat siihen. Ja toden totta, MaxFactorin nykyinen omistajakin on ilmeisesti vahvistanut ett\u00e4 samalla reseptill\u00e4 tehtyj\u00e4 tuotteita myyd\u00e4\u00e4n edelleen, l\u00e4hes sata vuotta my\u00f6hemmin. Luonnollisesti tuon j\u00e4lkeen MaxFactor on saanut paljon kilpailijoita joilla kullakin omat tuotteensa kiinte\u00e4ss\u00e4, rasvamaisessa ja nestem\u00e4isess\u00e4 muodossa. Aivan kaikkien kilpailijoiden tuotteet eiv\u00e4t aina olleet yht\u00e4 laadukkaita ja hyvi\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n L\u00e4hteit\u00e4:<\/strong> There hasn’t been any of vintage makeup stuff in the blog for very long time, so let’s get that series going on again. Even though all sorts of home-made makeup and cosmetics has been made for thousands of years, modern makeup foundation hasn’t been in production longer than from 40’s-50’s. But let’s go back to beginning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Theater stage is far from audience, so it was necessary for actors to enhance facial features and expressions some how. To make your eyes and mouth to stand out. Lead white which was popular in 1700’s turned out to be poisonous and made face a bit wax-like. So for long time actors used only powders and loose pigments. In the 1800’s brought in new bright gaslight, which washed out the colour from the face on theater stage. Instead of powder, actors needed more colour. At the end of 1800’s actors started to mix powder pigments into melted tallow or grease. Apparently it’s not exactly clear who was the very first to invent the greasepaint, however most often it’s associated with German opera singer and chemistry student Ludwig Leichner. Greasepaint he created had more pigments and it was easier to apply than others. It came in two different size sticks. His products became popular very quickly and already 1873 he founded a company for selling theater cosmetics for international markets. At this point consumers didn’t really have any industrially produced makeup foundation. Mostly just loose powder and papier poudre (since 1890’s)<\/strong> for plotting grease off the skin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In the 30’s when film industry really took of big time in Hollywood, local cosmetic shop owner Max Factor started to develope makeup for movies. He was already quite succesfull on the business, and he wasn’t happy about existing greasepaint products. He wanted to have smoother quality, softer and more flexible texture and thinner layers, for makeup to work in movies. In 1923 (allthough some sources also claim 1914) Factor brought much more softer and smoother greasepaint to markets. It was meant for actors and it was supposed to look better in closeups and work better for specific lighting and film. These theater and movie makeups were, after huge range of testing and developement, the base for makeup range designed for consumer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n At the end of 1930’s Max Factor brought brand new and innovative product, PanCake to market. Nothing like it had been seen before. It was similar to modern makeup powders. PanCake was meant to spread with damp sponge and it required lots of moisturiser on skin before applying, otherwise it made the skin feel tight and dry. Originally that was also designed for actors, but it spread quickly to consumer use via actesses and their fans. It was something completely new and women loved it. And lo and behold, owner of MaxFactor has apparently confirmed that products made with exact recipe are still sold today. Naturally MaxFactor has since then received lots of competition who all have their own producst in one form or another. But not all competitors products were always as good quality. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Sources:<\/strong> Vintage-meikkiasioita ei ole blogissa n\u00e4hty aikoihin, joten mik\u00e4s sen parempi hetki virkist\u00e4\u00e4 vanhaa blogisarjaa kuin joulukalenteri. Vaikka kaikenlaisia kotikutoisempia meikkej\u00e4 ja kosmetiikkaa on valmistettu vuosituhansia, nykyisenkaltaisia meikkivoiteita alettiin valmistaa vasta 40-50-luvuilla. Mutta palataanpa ihan alkuun. Teatterin lava on kaukana yleis\u00f6st\u00e4, joten n\u00e4yttelij\u00f6ille oli tarpeen jotenkin korostaa kasvojen ilmeit\u00e4. Niille t\u00e4ytyi saada jonkinlaista meikki\u00e4 korostamaan silmi\u00e4… <\/p>\n
History of makeup<\/a>
Cosmetics and skin: Greasepaint<\/a>
Cosmetics and skin: Pan cake<\/a>
Wikipedia: Foundation<\/a>
Vintage dancer: Victorian makeup<\/a>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/inenglish.gif?resize=214%2C100\")
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
History of makeup<\/a>
Cosmetics and skin: Greasepaint<\/a>
Cosmetics and skin: Pan cake<\/a>
Wikipedia: Foundation<\/a>
Vintage dancer: Victorian makeup<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/pudercreme.jpg?resize=478%2C905\")
Puhdas hele\u00e4 iho oli tarpeeksi, siit\u00e4 korkeintaan taputeltiin pois kiilto
puuterilla. Ainoa lehdist\u00e4ni l\u00f6ytynyt meikkipohjan mainos on t\u00e4m\u00e4
ruotsalainen “pudercreme”-mainos 30-luvun puoliv\u00e4list\u00e4. \/
In Finland makeup wasn’t popular nor accepted in 30’s. Clean radiant
skin was enough, only powder was used to plot away the shine. This
swedish “pudercreme” ad was the only one I could find about makeup
foundations. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/vintagecosmetics.jpg?resize=800%2C955\")
meikkivoidepurkkia<\/strong>. Revlon-huulipunapuikko on mummuni vanha, ehk\u00e4 70-luvulta.
Pisamien poistoon tarkoitettu voide on myyty hienossa maitolasisessa purkissa, ehk\u00e4 1900-luvun alusta.
Mirabilis-rasiassa on ollut saippuaa ja Le Narcisse Bleu on puuteria. Puuteripaperia on myyty samanlaisessa
vihkosessa vuodesta 1905 l\u00e4htien. \/
It’s difficult to find old cosmetics packaging. That’s why there isn’t any old foundation jar for this post. <\/em><\/strong>
Revlon lipstick is my granny’s old, perhaps from 70’s. Cream for removing freckles<\/em><\/strong>
was sold in beautifull glass jar, perhaps early 1900’s. Mirabilis box had soap in it and
Le Narcisse Bleu is loose powder. Papier poudre has been sold in the same booklet package since 1905. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"