{"id":7034,"date":"2013-12-04T00:15:24","date_gmt":"2013-12-03T22:15:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=7034"},"modified":"2014-12-01T12:32:01","modified_gmt":"2014-12-01T10:32:01","slug":"vintage-beauty-tips-puuteri-powders","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=7034","title":{"rendered":"Vintage beauty tips: Puuterit \/ Powders"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kajalin ja huulipunan lis\u00e4ksi puuteri on varmaankin niit\u00e4 aivan ensimm\u00e4isi\u00e4 keksittyj\u00e4 meikkituotteita. Joidenkin l\u00e4hteiden mukaan puuterin keksimist\u00e4 pit\u00e4\u00e4 j\u00e4ljitt\u00e4\u00e4 kauas aina muinaiseen Egyptiin saakka jossa naiset levittiv\u00e4t kasvoilleen kalkista tai savesta tehty\u00e4 seosta. Alunperin tarkoitus ei ollut niink\u00e4\u00e4n kaunistautua vaan suojautua pahoilta hengilt\u00e4, mutta my\u00f6hemmin seoksella haluttiin peitt\u00e4\u00e4 ruskettunutta ihons\u00e4vy\u00e4. Seoksen myrkyllisyys ja iholle aiheuttamat vauriot eiv\u00e4t lopettaneet sen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00e4. Kauneudestaan kuulun kuningatar Kleopatran kerrotaan k\u00e4ytt\u00e4neen krokotiilin j\u00e4t\u00f6ksist\u00e4 tehty\u00e4 puuteria. V\u00e4h\u00e4varaisemmat naiset k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t vehn\u00e4jauhosta valmistettua.<\/p>\n

Antiikin Kreikassa ja Roomassa ilmeisesti k\u00e4ytettiin kasvoilla mineraaleista ja kivist\u00e4 jauhettuja v\u00e4rikk\u00e4it\u00e4 puutereita. Olisivatko olleet ne ihan ensimm\u00e4iset mineraalimeikit? Japanissa geishat v\u00e4rj\u00e4siv\u00e4t kasvojaan valkoiseksi riisist\u00e4 tehdyll\u00e4 puuterilla jo 1500-luvulta l\u00e4htien. Riisipuuteria valmistetaan edelleenkin ja aion tehd\u00e4 siit\u00e4 ihan oman postauksensa. Keskiajalla l\u00e4nsimaissa tuli muotiin kalpea iho. Tuohon aikaan vain huonomaineiset naiset maalasivat huulensa ja k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t kajalia. Keskiajalta l\u00e4htien, vuosisatojen ajan ylh\u00e4iset naiset ja miehet levittiv\u00e4t kasvoilleen lyijyst\u00e4 ja etikasta valmistettua seosta nimelt\u00e4 lyijyvalkoinen, huolimatta sen aiheuttamista kuolemantapauksista. Lyijyvalkoisen k\u00e4yt\u00f6st\u00e4 aiheutunut lyijymyrkytys aiheutti my\u00f6s hiustenl\u00e4ht\u00f6\u00e4 ja muita oireita. Englannin kuningatar Elizabeth I on luultavasti jokaiselle tuttu valkoisista kasvoistaan ja korkeasta otsastaan.<\/p>\n

Ennen 40-lukua puutereilla ei yritettyk\u00e4\u00e4n tavoitella omaa ihons\u00e4vy\u00e4 vaan puuteris\u00e4vyt valittiin sen mukaan millainen ihons\u00e4vy oli muodissa, siksi puuteri saattoi olla vaikka vaaleanpunaista, vaaleanvihre\u00e4\u00e4 tai lilaa. V\u00e4rej\u00e4 saatettiin my\u00f6s sekoitella kesken\u00e4\u00e4n toivotun lopputuloksen saamiseksi. 10- ja 20-luvuilla puuteri oli usein riisipuuteria. Sit\u00e4 sai my\u00f6s ns. puuteripapereina joita oli helppo k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6s julkisesti. Tosin joissakin piireiss\u00e4 viel\u00e4 20-luvullakin meikin lis\u00e4\u00e4minen julkisesti oli vulg\u00e4\u00e4ri\u00e4. Samoihin aikoihin puuterink\u00e4yt\u00f6n yleistyess\u00e4 my\u00f6s puuterirasiat alkoivat yleisty\u00e4. Kotona kampausp\u00f6yd\u00e4ll\u00e4 puuteri s\u00e4ilytettiin isossa koristeellisessa pahvirasiassa tai vaikkapa vartavasten valmistetussa bakeliittirasiassa, k\u00e4silaukkuun laitettiin kaunis metallinen peilirasia.<\/p>\n

Kauneudenhoito-ohjeet, muoti ja muu naisille suunnattu markkinoitiin 1900-luvun alkupuoliskolla yleens\u00e4 filmit\u00e4htien kautta. Kauneuden kirja vuodelta 1950 neuvoo miten ihojauhetta eli puuteria tulee k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4. Kuten MGM-t\u00e4hti Arlene Dahl’kin tekee, puuterointi tulee aloittaa leuasta ja sitten kiert\u00e4\u00e4 poskille, nen\u00e4\u00e4n ja otsaan. \u00a0Puuteria painellaan iholle runsaasti puuterihuiskulla, eik\u00e4 sit\u00e4 saa miss\u00e4\u00e4n tapauksessa hieroa kasvoihin. Ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4inen puuteri harjataan pois pehme\u00e4ll\u00e4 kasvoharjalla. Puuteri ei saisi olla omaa ihons\u00e4vy\u00e4 vaaleampaa ja toivottu s\u00e4vy saadaan sekoittamalla esim. valkoista ja “lihanv\u00e4rist\u00e4” puuteria. Iltamenoissa suositellaan v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n kellert\u00e4vi\u00e4 ihojauheita koska keinovalo antaa iholle aina kellert\u00e4v\u00e4n v\u00e4ris\u00e4vyn. Puuterin valinnasta Kauneuden kirja neuvoo seuraavaa:<\/p>\n

Kannattaa aina ostaa todella hyv\u00e4\u00e4 ja siis my\u00f6s kallista puuteria. Ensiksikin on ajateltava ihon hyvinvointia ja toiseksi kallis puuteri kest\u00e4\u00e4 kauemmin kuin halpa ja huono. Hyv\u00e4 puuteri on hyvin hienorakeista. Sen kelpoisuuden n\u00e4kee parhaiten kun esim. k\u00e4sivarren sis\u00e4pintaan hieroo sit\u00e4 hiukkasen. Jos se ik\u00e4\u00e4nkuin sulautuu ihoon j\u00e4tt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4 mink\u00e4\u00e4nlaisia rakeita tai kokkareita, se on todella hyv\u00e4\u00e4.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Daily Mailin kauneuspalstalla 30-luvulta kerrotaan mik\u00e4 voi menn\u00e4 pieleen. Iltamenoihin neitonen oli tehnyt itselleen 30-luvulla muodikkaan nk. rusketusmeikin tummalla puuterilla. Illan aikana puuteri oli paakkuuntunut tummiksi raidoiksi juonteisiin ja iho kiilsi ik\u00e4v\u00e4sti. H\u00e4nt\u00e4 neuvottiin s\u00e4vytetyn nestem\u00e4isen puuterin levityksen j\u00e4lkeen puuteroimaan kasvot ensin vaalealla puuterilla ja sen j\u00e4lkeen viel\u00e4 rusketuspuuterilla. H\u00e4nen tuli lis\u00e4ksi tehd\u00e4 pieni m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 puuterisekoitusta n\u00e4ist\u00e4 kahdesta s\u00e4vyst\u00e4 meikin korjailua varten. Samalla palstalla neuvotaan my\u00f6s ett\u00e4 rusketuspuuterin ei koskaan tulisi olla yht\u00e4 tumma kuin rusketusmeikkivoide.<\/p>\n

PIENI KAUNEUSSANASTO<\/strong><\/span>
\nLyijyvalkoinen<\/strong><\/span> – lyijyst\u00e4 ja etikasta valmistettu myrkyllinen v\u00e4riaine jota k\u00e4ytettiin my\u00f6s meikkin\u00e4. Sen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6 on monissa maissa nyky\u00e4\u00e4n kielletty my\u00f6s maaleissa ja korvattu muilla vaihtoehdoilla kuten titaanivalkoisella.
\nMineraalipuuteri<\/strong><\/span> – Mineraalimeikki, mineraaleista jauhettua hienojakoista puuteria joka k\u00e4ytt\u00e4ytyy iholla meikkivoiteen tapaan. Kosmetiikkavalmistajilla on mineraalipuuterista erilaisia versioita joista osa sis\u00e4lt\u00e4\u00e4 yksinomaan mineraaleja, osa vain noin 10%. Tarkista sis\u00e4llysluettelo (Inci) varmistuaksesi siit\u00e4 mit\u00e4 tuote oikeasti sis\u00e4lt\u00e4\u00e4.
\nPuuteripaperi<\/strong> <\/span>– Paperiliuskalle pr\u00e4ss\u00e4tty\u00e4 puuteria (papier poudre) jolla taputellaan kiilto pois kasvoilta. Myyd\u00e4\u00e4n edelleen pieniss\u00e4 vihkosissa.
\nRiisipuuteri<\/strong><\/span> – Riisin t\u00e4rkkelyksest\u00e4 valmistettu hienojakoinen puuteri (riisijauho)<\/span>. S\u00e4ilytt\u00e4\u00e4 kosteutta, tasoittaa pintaa. 100% riisijauhoa voidaan k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 kosmetiikan tapaan mutta my\u00f6s ruuanvalmistukseen. Riisipuuterikosmetiikkaan saatetaan lis\u00e4t\u00e4 muita aineita, kuten v\u00e4riaineita.
\nRusketuspuuteri<\/strong><\/span> – Rusketuksen tultua muotiin, tuli markkinoille uusi meikkituote, rusketuspuuteri (tan powder, bronze powder) jonka tarkoitus oli saada iho n\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n terveen ruskettuneelta. Vastannee hieman nykyist\u00e4 aurinkopuuteria.
\nNestem\u00e4inen puuteri<\/strong><\/span> – Ilmeisesti modernin nestem\u00e4isen meikkipohjan edelt\u00e4j\u00e4, s\u00e4vytetty, kevyesti peitt\u00e4v\u00e4 neste. Voitiin levitt\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6s vartalolle.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Together with kohl and lipstick, powder is probably the very first make up product ever existed. According to some sources, you have to track the invention of face powder all the way back to the Ancient Egypt, where women used to spread on their faces a mixture of chalk or clay. Originally it was not for beauty but for protection of evil spirits. Later on it turned into a way to cover tanned complexion. Toxic mixture caused skin problems, but that didn’t stop them using it. Story says that Queen Cleopatra, well-known of her beauty, used to spread powder made of crocodile excrements on her face. Women with less wealth used powder made of wheat flour.<\/p>\n

Ancient Greeks and Romans apparently used colourful powders made of ground minerals and stones, perhaps the very first mineral make up. In Japan geisha’s have used rice powder to paint their faces white since the 16th century. Rice powder is still manufactured and I’m going to make separate post about that. In Middle Ages pale complexion became very desirable. At that time only women with questionable reputation used kohl and rouge to colour their lips or cheeks. Starting from Middle Ages, noble women and men used mixture of lead and vinegar called ceruse, to paint their faces white. Despite of the lead poisoning, loss of hair, other symptoms and even cases of death, ceruse was popular make up for hundreds of years. Probably most of you know Queen Elizabeth I by her white face and high forehead.<\/p>\n

Before the 1940’s people didn’t try to match the make up foundation to their complexion. Powder shades were selected to match the fashionable idea of skin colour, so they might have been light pink, light green or even lilac. It was also possible to mix different shades to receive the desired result. During 1910 and 20’s powder was quite often ricepowder and you could also get it in powder papers, which were easy to use in public. All though in some circles still in the 20’s it was vulgar to add make up in public. At the same time when use of powder became really popular, also the powder cases increased popularity. At home on the vanity table powder was kept in large cardbord box or perhaps bakelite jar, in handbag powder was in pretty, mirrored metal case.<\/p>\n

In the earlier half of 1900’s beauty tips, fashion and other things for women were usually marketed via movie stars. The Book of Beauty from 1950 gives tips how to use powder. Like MGM-star Arlene Dahl does, powdering should be started from chin, then continued to cheeks, nose and forehead. Powder should be plentifully pressed on the skin with powder puff, and not in any case to rub it on. Excess powder should be brushed off with soft face brush. Powder should not be lighter than your own skin tone. Desired shade can be recieved by mixing for example white and fleshcoloured powder. For evening it is not recommended to use yellowish shades because artificial light always gives skin yellowish hue. Book of Beauty gives tips how to choose the powder:<\/p>\n

It is worth of always buying really good and expensive powder. First you have to think about the well being of your skin and secondly the expensive powder lasts longer than cheap, lowquality powder. Good powder is very finely ground. You can easily test the quality of the powder by rubbing it on the inner side of your wrist. If it blends on your skin without any grains or lumps, it is really good powder.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

On 30’s Daily Mails beauty section had article about when make up goes wrong. Pretty lady had done for the evening party so called tan make up, fashionable at 1930’s. During the evening dark tan powder created ugly dark lines and skin was shiny in places. Instructions to correct this was following: after spreading liquid powder, powder the face with fair shade of powder and on top of that apply the tan powder. Also small amount of powder mix with both shades would be reserved in to the handbag, for repairing the make up during the evening. Same beauty section also recommended that tan powder should never be as dark as your tan liquid powder.<\/p>\n

SMALL BEAUTY DICTIONARY<\/strong><\/span>
\nLead white, ceruse<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0– toxic pigment, made of lead and vinegar, used also as make up. Using lead white is forbidden in many countries and it’s been replaced by other pigments.
\nMineral powder\u00a0<\/b><\/span>– Mineral make up, finely ground powder, made of minerals. Used in similar way than other foundations. Cosmetic manufacturers have different versions of mineral powders, some of them are completely made of minerals, some only have as little as 10% of minerals. Check the inci of the product to make sure what the product actually consists.
\nPowder paper<\/strong><\/span> – Powder pressed on small sheets of thin paper (blotting paper, papier poudre). For removing shine from your face. Still available.
\nRice powder<\/strong>\u00a0<\/span>– Fine powder (rice flour) made of rice starch. Evens out surfaces, has moisture-retaining properties. 100% rice powder is being used as cosmetics but also as food. Rice powder cosmetics can also be added other materials, like colourings .
\nTan powder<\/strong>\u00a0<\/span>– When tan became popular, new product came out, tan powder (or bronze powder). It was supposed to create healthy looking, glowing tan. Probably equivalent for modern bronzers.
\nLiquid powder<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0– Apparently the predecessor of liquid foundation, tinted, medium coverage. Could be also applied to body.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"vintagepowder1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ker\u00e4\u00e4n vanhoja puuterirasioita, t\u00e4ss\u00e4 niist\u00e4 muutamia. Osan metallisista
\npuuterirasioista n\u00e4et tuolla<\/a>. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nI collect old powder cases and boxes, here some of them. some of my metal
\npowder cases you can see over there<\/a>.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"vintagepowder2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

DuBarry (vaalea rasia etualalla), Le Narcisse Bleu (sinikukallinen),
\nPrincess Pat\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>(kolme identtiist\u00e4 punamustaa), Turkoosi Puuteri ja Mystikum<\/strong>
\n(korkeampi kellert\u00e4v\u00e4 rasia). \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nDuBarry (light box in front), Le Narcisse Bleu (blue with flowers),
\nPrincess Pat\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>(three identical black and red ones), Turquoise Powder and
\nMystikum (higher yellowish box).<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"VintagePowderAd1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"VintagePowderAd2\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kajalin ja huulipunan lis\u00e4ksi puuteri on varmaankin niit\u00e4 aivan ensimm\u00e4isi\u00e4 keksittyj\u00e4 meikkituotteita. Joidenkin l\u00e4hteiden mukaan puuterin keksimist\u00e4 pit\u00e4\u00e4 j\u00e4ljitt\u00e4\u00e4 kauas aina muinaiseen Egyptiin saakka jossa naiset levittiv\u00e4t kasvoilleen kalkista tai savesta tehty\u00e4 seosta. Alunperin tarkoitus ei ollut niink\u00e4\u00e4n kaunistautua vaan suojautua pahoilta hengilt\u00e4, mutta my\u00f6hemmin seoksella haluttiin peitt\u00e4\u00e4 ruskettunutta ihons\u00e4vy\u00e4. Seoksen myrkyllisyys ja iholle aiheuttamat… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7099,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Vintage beauty tips: Puuterit \/ Powders","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[33,47,35],"tags":[105,221,196],"class_list":{"0":"post-7034","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-kauneudentahden","8":"category-meikit","9":"category-vintage","10":"tag-beauty-hair","11":"tag-christmas-calendar-2013","12":"tag-vintage-beauty-tips","14":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/vintagepowder1.jpg?fit=600%2C900","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-1Ps","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7034","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=7034"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7034\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7107,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7034\/revisions\/7107"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/7099"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=7034"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=7034"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=7034"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}