{"id":7006,"date":"2013-11-20T02:00:56","date_gmt":"2013-11-19T23:00:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=7006"},"modified":"2013-11-20T02:07:20","modified_gmt":"2013-11-19T23:07:20","slug":"ed-esittaa-vintage-kauneusvinkit-ed-presents-vintage-beauty-tips","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=7006","title":{"rendered":"ED Esitt\u00e4\u00e4: vintage-kauneusvinkit \/ ED Presents: vintage beauty tips"},"content":{"rendered":"

P\u00e4\u00e4tin aloittaa uuden teeman blogissa: vintage kauneusvinkit. Postauksen alla n\u00e4hd\u00e4\u00e4n kerran kuussa vanhoja kosmetiikkamainoksia ja entisaikain kauneusvinkkej\u00e4 joista osa ei ehk\u00e4 nykytiet\u00e4myksen varassa ole en\u00e4\u00e4 t\u00e4ysin toteutuskelpoisiakaan, mutta kuriositeettina saatan satunnaisesti niit\u00e4kin julkaista.<\/p>\n

Alkakaamme sarja kasvojen ihosta ja sen hoitamisesta. Morsiamen kirja vuodelta 1945 suosittaa ett\u00e4 ihon terveydenhoidon tulisi alkaa riitt\u00e4v\u00e4st\u00e4 unesta, raikastavista kylvyist\u00e4, riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n veden nauttimisesta sitruunalla ter\u00e4stettyn\u00e4 sek\u00e4 terveellisest\u00e4 kasvispitoisesta ruokavaliosta. Kirjassa muistutetaan erityisesti ett\u00e4 lihaa ei ole tarkoitettu ihmisen varsinaiseksi ravinnoksi. Kuulostaa varsin modernilta ajatukselta vai mit\u00e4. Meikist\u00e4 kirja kuitenkin totetaa seuraavaa:<\/p>\n

Moni nainen yritt\u00e4\u00e4 peitt\u00e4\u00e4 sairaloista muotoaan maalilla ja ihojauheella. Se on varsin l\u00e4pin\u00e4kyv\u00e4 verho ja samalla s\u00e4\u00e4li\u00e4 her\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4. Hele\u00e4\u00e4 hipi\u00e4\u00e4 ja iloista mielt\u00e4 ei voida matkia maalilla eik\u00e4 tavanmukaisella, naamiomaisella hymyll\u00e4.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Naistenlehdiss\u00e4 ja kauneusoppaissa suositeltiin usein turvautumaan kasvohierontaan ihon kimmoisuuden s\u00e4ilytt\u00e4miseksi ja ryppyjen ehk\u00e4isemiseksi. 1900-luvun alkupuolella kosmetiikan saatavuus oli viel\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4ist\u00e4 joten kauneudenhoidossa ehk\u00e4isev\u00e4 ja yll\u00e4pit\u00e4v\u00e4 hoito oli p\u00e4\u00e4osassa, virheiden peitt\u00e4misen tai korjaamisen sijaan. Nykyisest\u00e4 high tech-ihonhoidosta ei osattu kuin haaveilla. Ohjeet olivat usein varsin kotikutoisia ja tarvikkeet l\u00f6ytyiv\u00e4t jokaisen naisen omasta keitti\u00f6st\u00e4. Morsiamen kirja suosittaa seuraavaa:<\/p>\n

Ryppyjen poistamiseksi k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n niinsanottua j\u00e4\u00e4hierontaa: k\u00e4\u00e4rit\u00e4\u00e4n j\u00e4\u00e4palanen liinaan, kastetaan se benzoe-veteen ja hierotaan sill\u00e4 kasvoja noin viisi minuuttia. Tai my\u00f6s voi voidella kasvot ja kaulan munan valkuaisella ja parinkymmenen minuutin minuutin kuluttua poistaa sen pesem\u00e4ll\u00e4 l\u00e4mpim\u00e4ll\u00e4 vedell\u00e4 ja sitten hieroa kevyesti coldcreamilla, \u00a0joka pyyhit\u00e4\u00e4n pois.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

J\u00e4\u00e4hieronnan sijaan voi kasvot aamuisin huuhdella j\u00e4\u00e4kylm\u00e4ll\u00e4 vedell\u00e4. Itse k\u00e4yt\u00e4n usein t\u00e4t\u00e4 kylm\u00e4huuhtelua, syyst\u00e4 ett\u00e4 kaikki vesihanamme ovat hieman… hmmm, sanotaanko erikoiset, enk\u00e4 jaksa odotella veden l\u00e4mpenemist\u00e4. Tied\u00e4 sitten onko siit\u00e4 iholle apua, mutta ainakin her\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 mukavasti ja kuulemani mukaan supistaa ihohuokosia ainakin hetkellisesti. 1800-luvun lopulla suuriin ihohuokosiin ja kuivalle iholle suositeltiin saippuan sijaan pesua l\u00e4mpim\u00e4ll\u00e4 vedell\u00e4 johon sekoitettu glyseriini\u00e4 tai mantelileseit\u00e4. Iltaisin suositeltiin k\u00e4ytett\u00e4v\u00e4ksi mietoa voidetta kuten lanoliinia. Iho tuli aamuisin puuteroida hienolla riisipuuterilla joka suojasi raakaa ilmaa vastaan.<\/p>\n

1900-luvun alkupuoliskolla kosmetiikkateollisuuden jo tuottaessa monenlaisia voiteita, iholle suositeltiin kahta erilaista voidetta, p\u00e4iv\u00e4voiteeksi ns. vanishing creamia \u00a0ja y\u00f6voiteeksi coldcreamia jolla oli kevyesti viilent\u00e4v\u00e4 vaikutus ja joka toisinaan piti pyyhki\u00e4 iholta pois vaikutusajan j\u00e4lkeen. Moderni kiireinen el\u00e4m\u00e4nrytmi ja kosmetiikkaan ladatut teknologiset odotukset eiv\u00e4t en\u00e4\u00e4 nyky\u00e4\u00e4n suosi moisia aikaavievi\u00e4 kauneusrutiineja. 1800-luvulla sen sijaan kun kosmetiikkateollisuutta ei viel\u00e4 oikeastaan ollut, naisilla oli aikaa itse valmistaa vaikkapa tahnaa silm\u00e4nalusryppyjen hoitoon. T\u00e4h\u00e4n tahnaan tuli sekoittaa karvasmanteli\u00f6ljy\u00e4, makeamanteli\u00f6ljy\u00e4, perupalsamia ja hunajaa. Tahnaa tuli k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 iltaisin, aamulla silm\u00e4nalusryppyj\u00e4 hierottiin kamferispriill\u00e4.<\/p>\n

Viel\u00e4 30-luvullakin Daily Mailin kauneudenhoito-palstalla suositeltiin kotitekoista tehohoitoa kasvoille: puhdista kasvot, erottele munankeltuainen ja vatkaa se, taputtele se kasvoille sormin, anna kuivahtaa pari minuuttia, pyyhi kuivunut keltuainen pois kylm\u00e4\u00e4n ruusuveteen kostutetulla puuvillaliinalla. Taputtele lopuksi kasvot ihohuokosia supistavalla aineella.<\/p>\n

PIENI KAUNEUSSANASTO<\/strong><\/span>
\nBenzoe<\/strong><\/span> – bentsoepuusta (Styrax benzoin) saatavaa vaniljalle tuoksuvaa hartsia josta valmistetaan bentsoe\u00f6ljy\u00e4 ja bentsoehappoa. Kutsutaan my\u00f6s munkkibalsamiksi. Luonnon s\u00e4il\u00f6nt\u00e4aine jonka desinfioivaa vaikutusta hy\u00f6dynnet\u00e4\u00e4n kosmetiikassa.
\nCold cream<\/strong>\u00a0– voide jolla on kevyesti viilent\u00e4v\u00e4 vaikutus
\nGlyseriini<\/strong><\/span> – eli glyseroli on v\u00e4rit\u00f6n ja tahmea liuottimena toimiva neste, k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n kosmetiikassa notkistamassa koostumusta ja sitomaan kosteutta
\nKamferisprii<\/strong><\/span> – alkoholiin sekoitettua kamferipuun pihkasta saatavaa ainetta, iholla l\u00e4mmitt\u00e4v\u00e4, lihaksia rentouttava, hengitysteit\u00e4 avaava
\nLanoliini<\/strong><\/span> – lampaan villasta saatava rasva, paljon kosmetiikassa k\u00e4ytetty mutta my\u00f6s voimakkaasti allergisoiva
\nPerupalsami<\/strong><\/span> – aromaattinen, antiseptinen hartsi jota saadaan Toluifera (Myroxylon) Pereir<\/span><\/span>\u00e6-puusta.
\nRiisipuuteri<\/strong><\/span> – eritt\u00e4in hieno riisin t\u00e4rkkelyksest\u00e4 valmistettu puuteri
\n<\/span><\/span>Vanishing cream<\/strong><\/span> – ihoon t\u00e4ydellisesti imeytyv\u00e4 voide<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

I decided to launch a new theme in the blog: vintage beauty tips. Under this theme you will be getting once a month old cosmetic ads and beauty tips from the old times. Some of the tips might not be accurate anymore in the light of new knowledge, but I will share those aswell every now and then as a curiosities.<\/p>\n

Let’s start the series with skin care. Book for brides from 1945 recommends that the skincare should start with plentiful sleep, refreshing baths, consuming lot of fresh water with dash of lemon and healthy vegetable diet. Book especially reminds the reader that meat is not meant for regular human food. Sounds pretty modern idea, don’t you think. This is what the book has to say about make up:<\/p>\n

Many women try to cover their sickly shape with paint and face powder. It is just transparent veil and also raises the pity on others. Clear skin and happy mood cannot be achieved with paint nor with usual mask-like smile.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Women’s magazines and beauty books recommended daily facial massages to maintain the elasticity and prevent wrinkles. In early 1900’s \u00a0availability of cosmetics wasn’t very good nor available, the preventing skincare and maintaining facial health were more important than covering little flaws or trying to fix them. People could only dream about modern high tech cosmetics. Tips were quite often rather homely and most ingredients could be found on every woman’s kitchen. Book for brides recommends following:<\/p>\n

To prevent wrinkles use so called ice massage: wrap piece of ice in a cloth, dip it into benzoe-water and rub your face with it about five minutes. Or you can also apply egg white on your face and neck, leave it for twenty minutes and then wash it off with warm water, then gently massage with coldcream, which you wipe off last.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Instead of ice massage you could just rinse the face with ice cold water in the morning. I quite often do this, because our water taps are… well, let’s just say they are quite unusual, so I can’t be bothered to wait the water to warm up. Don’t know if it helps the skin, but atleast it wakes me up nicely and cold water is supposed to shrink the pores, atleast momentarily. At the end of 1800’s there was not much cosmetics available, so recommended treatment for large pores and dry skin was to wash face with warm water mixed with glycerin or almond bran. For evenings lanolin was recommended for cream and in the morning, if weather was rough, ricepowder puffed on face was suppose to protect.<\/p>\n

In the early decades of 1900’s when cosmetics industry was already producing all sorts of products the recommended skin care treatments were two different kind of creams, vanishing cream and so called cold cream, which had mildly cooling effect and sometimes remains of the cream needed to be wiped off afterwards. Modern busy pace of life and the expectations for modern cosmetics don’t really favour that kind of time consuming beauty regimes anymore. In the 1800’s when there wasn’t such cosmetics available, women had time to mix their own treatments. Like the mix that was recommended for under-eye wrinkles: bitter almond oil, sweet almond oil, peru balsam and honey. This paste was to use in the evenings and for mornings the under-eyes were supposed to be rubbed with camphor spirit.<\/p>\n

As late as in the 1930’s Daily Mail’s beauty tips recommended homemade treatment for face: clean face, separate one egg yolk from the white and beat quickly, spread beaten yolk evenly over face with your fingertips, leave to dry for couple minutes, wipe off with cotton cloth soaked in cold rosewater. Finish by patting face with astringent.<\/p>\n

LITTLE BEAUTY DICTIONARY<\/strong><\/span>
\nBenzoe<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0– mildly vanilla scented resin that comes from benzoetree (Styrax benzoin), also called styrax resin or gum benzoin. Used for making benzoin oil and benzoic acid. Natural preservative, widely used in cosmetics for it’s disinfectant properties.
\nCold cream<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0– cream with cooling affect
\nGlycerin<\/strong><\/span> – aka glycerol is colourless sugar alcohol, used in cosmetics to add viscosity and bind moisture
\nCamphor spirit<\/strong><\/span> – substance derived from camphor tree sap and mixed with alcohol, warming on skin, relaxes muscles, opens airways
\nLanolin<\/strong><\/span> – fat that comes from lambs wool, used a lot in cosmetics, but also very allergenic
\nPeru balsam<\/strong><\/span> – aromatic antiseptic recin of Myroxylon tree, widely used in cosmetics, medics and food industry
\nRicepowder<\/strong><\/span> – fine powder, made of rice starch
\nVanishing cream<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0– cream that is completely absorbed into skin<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"tosca<\/a><\/p>\n

\"tosca<\/a><\/p>\n

\"tosca<\/a><\/p>\n

Tosca ja 4711 olivat\/ovat saksalaisen\u00a0M\u00e4urer & Wirtz-kosmetiikkavalmistajan
\nsuosittuja tuotemerkkej\u00e4. Monen tunnistavat ainakin 4711:n jota
\nmy\u00f6s K\u00f6lninvedeksi kutsutaan. \u00a0\/
\nTosca and 4711 were\/are popular brands by german cosmetic <\/em>
\nmanufacturer\u00a0M\u00e4urer & Wirtz. Many recognize atleast 4711 which<\/em>
\nalso goes by the name Eau de Cologne.\u00a0<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

P\u00e4\u00e4tin aloittaa uuden teeman blogissa: vintage kauneusvinkit. Postauksen alla n\u00e4hd\u00e4\u00e4n kerran kuussa vanhoja kosmetiikkamainoksia ja entisaikain kauneusvinkkej\u00e4 joista osa ei ehk\u00e4 nykytiet\u00e4myksen varassa ole en\u00e4\u00e4 t\u00e4ysin toteutuskelpoisiakaan, mutta kuriositeettina saatan satunnaisesti niit\u00e4kin julkaista. Alkakaamme sarja kasvojen ihosta ja sen hoitamisesta. Morsiamen kirja vuodelta 1945 suosittaa ett\u00e4 ihon terveydenhoidon tulisi alkaa riitt\u00e4v\u00e4st\u00e4 unesta, raikastavista kylvyist\u00e4, riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7009,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"ED Esitt\u00e4\u00e4: vintage-kauneusvinkit \/ ED Presents: vintage beauty tips","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[33,47,48],"tags":[105,196],"class_list":{"0":"post-7006","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-kauneudentahden","8":"category-meikit","9":"category-muukosmetiikka","10":"tag-beauty-hair","11":"tag-vintage-beauty-tips","13":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/tosca-003.jpg?fit=600%2C444","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-1P0","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7006","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=7006"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7006\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7033,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7006\/revisions\/7033"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/7009"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=7006"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=7006"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=7006"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}