{"id":6612,"date":"2013-08-28T00:56:36","date_gmt":"2013-08-27T21:56:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=6612"},"modified":"2015-09-17T18:36:10","modified_gmt":"2015-09-17T15:36:10","slug":"diy-1740-luvun-kureliivi-diy-1740s-stays","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=6612","title":{"rendered":"DIY: 1740-luvun kureliivi \/ DIY: 1740’s stays"},"content":{"rendered":"

Olen vihdoin aloittanut projektin jota olen suunnitellut jo pidemp\u00e4\u00e4n. Aika on vaan aina niin kortilla ett\u00e4 jotkin projektit v\u00e4ist\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4 j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t hyllylle odottelemaan. Mutta viikonloppuna L’amusette’n<\/a> kureliivitalkoissa t\u00e4m\u00e4 jo useampi vuosi sitten aloitettu projekti py\u00f6r\u00e4hti kunnolla k\u00e4yntiin. Jaan projektin useampaan postaukseen koska asiaa tulee nyt paljon ja valmistumisessakin saattaa kest\u00e4\u00e4 jonkin aikaa.<\/p>\n

Olen haaveillut 1700-luvun korsetista ja puvusta jo pidemp\u00e4\u00e4n. Netin ihmemaasta l\u00f6ytyy lukuisia blogeja joissa periodipukujen harrastajat esittelev\u00e4t upeita luomuksiaan. Inspiraatiota voi siis k\u00e4yd\u00e4 etsim\u00e4ss\u00e4 vaikkapa seuraavissa paikoissa:
\nSuomeksi:<\/strong><\/span>
\nCouture Mayah
\n<\/a>El\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4 1700-luvulla<\/a><\/p>\n

Englanniksi:<\/span>
\n<\/strong><\/span>Rococo Atelier<\/a>
\nBefore the Automobile<\/a>
\nFestive Attyre
\n<\/a>Fashionable Past<\/a> &\u00a0Koshka the Cat<\/a>
\nHistorical sewing
\n<\/a>Isis’ wardrobe
\n<\/a>Costumers Closet<\/a><\/p>\n

No sitten kun on ensin imetty inspiraatiota t\u00e4ytyy alkaa mietti\u00e4 mallia ja etsi\u00e4 kaava. Halusin mieluummin piirt\u00e4\u00e4 kaavan itse kuin maksaa valmiista kaavasta joten olin jo parisen vuotta sitten tulostanut 1700-luvun korsetin piirto-ohjeet La Couturiere Parisiennesta<\/a>, mutta samaa ohjetta sielt\u00e4 ei en\u00e4\u00e4 l\u00f6ydy. Vastaavia ohjeita kyll\u00e4 useampikin. Olin jopa ehtinyt piirt\u00e4\u00e4 kaavan l\u00e4hes valmiiksi mutta en koskaan vaan saanut aikaiseksi tehd\u00e4 sovitetta ja viimeistell\u00e4 kaavaa.<\/p>\n

T\u00e4llaiselle maallikolle 1700-luvun korsetit n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t kutakuinkin samalta, mutta kun niihin perehtyy tarkemmin, \u00a0huomaa ett\u00e4 niiss\u00e4 on eroja. 1700-luvun korsetti ei muotoile lantiota, toisin kuten viktoriaaninen korsetti, vaan korsetti jakaantuu vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6st\u00e4 alasp\u00e4in kapeisiin lipareisiin. Kureliivitalkoissa sain kuulla ett\u00e4 1700-luvulla korsetti tarkoitti vaatekappaletta joka oli reunasta reunaan tuettu luilla. Vaatteessa ei siis ollut luiden v\u00e4liss\u00e4 lainkaan tyhj\u00e4\u00e4 kuten viktoriaanisissa tai moderneissa korseteissa. Luut kulkivat yl\u00e4reunasta alareunaan, lipareisiin saakka joko aivan pystysuorassa tai hieman vinottain kyljist\u00e4 keskellep\u00e4in. Vuosisadan loppua kohden kureliiveihin lis\u00e4ttiin rinnan kohdalle my\u00f6s vaakasuuntaisia luita tuomaan rinnankohtaan tynnyrim\u00e4ist\u00e4 py\u00f6reytt\u00e4.<\/p>\n

Kureliivi saattoi olla auki sel\u00e4st\u00e4 tai edest\u00e4 tai molemmista. Valitsin sek\u00e4 sel\u00e4st\u00e4 ett\u00e4 edest\u00e4 avoinna olevan mallin koska se on monik\u00e4ytt\u00f6isempi ja siin\u00e4 on enemm\u00e4n s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6varaa. Toisin kuin nyky\u00e4\u00e4n, 1700-luvulla kureliivi oli alusvaate ja siten oli n\u00e4kyviss\u00e4 vain harvoin. Se oli my\u00f6s arvokas vaate sill\u00e4 kureliiviin k\u00e4ytetyt luut olivat aitoa valaanluuta joka oli kallista tavaraa. Vain rikkailla, kuten hoviv\u00e4ell\u00e4 oli varaa omistaa useita kureliivej\u00e4.<\/p>\n

\"LE_CORSET_A_TRAVERS_LES_AGES_1896\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Pic.\u00a0<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Valitsemani malli on l\u00e4hinn\u00e4 1740-luvun kureliivin mallia. La Couturiere Parisiennen kaava oli sel\u00e4st\u00e4 varsin onnistunut, mutta etuosaan jouduin tekem\u00e4\u00e4n muutoksia. Olkaimen kiinnityskohta oli turhan kaukana sivulla. Riippuen siit\u00e4 miten paljon haluaa korsetilla kuristaa kasaan, voi kaavaa pienent\u00e4\u00e4 omista mitoista 5-10cm. T\u00e4m\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen ompelin sovitteen tukevasta kankaasta (esim lakanakankaasta)<\/strong><\/span>, se saa tuntua p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 varsin napakalta. Koska 1700-luvun kureliivi puetaan aluspaidan p\u00e4\u00e4lle, sen voi sovittaa ohuen topin p\u00e4\u00e4lle, mutta ilman rintaliivej\u00e4 jos niit\u00e4 ei sen kanssa aio k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4. Muutokset voi piirt\u00e4\u00e4 suoraan sovitteelle ja siirt\u00e4\u00e4 siit\u00e4 kaavaan. Sovituksessa kannattaa varmistaa ett\u00e4 kureliivi ei tule kainalossa liian l\u00e4helle k\u00e4tt\u00e4 koska silloin se on ep\u00e4mukava p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 kun luut pureutuvat k\u00e4sivarteen ja kainaloon.<\/p>\n

Sovituksen j\u00e4lkeen tein viel\u00e4 pienet muutokset kaavaan. Homma jatkuu sitten kun saan leikattua kaikki kappaleet oikeista kankaista. En ole mill\u00e4\u00e4n muotoa kureliivien ammattilainen sill\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4 on nyt tosiaankin ihan ensimm\u00e4inen 1700-luvun kureliivi jonka ompelen, mutta vastaan mielell\u00e4ni kysymyksiin jos suinkin osaan. Netti on my\u00f6s pullollaan ohjeita, eli jos innostuit niin ei kun kaivelemaan.<\/p>\n

\"Underpinnings_Corset_&_Pannier_
\n<\/a>Pic.\u00a0<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

I have finally managed to launch a project I have been planning for long. I don’t have that much time to do my own sewing anymore so some projects must wait. However this weekend, on L’Amusette’s<\/a> stays workshop I was finally able to properly start this project. I will split this in several different posts because there is lots to talk about and it also takes a while to get it finished.<\/p>\n

I have dreamed of 1700’s stays and gown for long time. There is several awesome blogs over the interwebs, where period gown enthusiasts showcase their creations. So to those who seek inspiration, you can find it here:
\nFinnish blogs:<\/strong><\/span>
\nCouture Mayah
\n<\/a>El\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4 1700-luvulla
\n<\/a>Before the Automobile
\n<\/a>Rococo Atelier<\/a><\/p>\n

International blogs:<\/strong><\/span>
\nFestive Attyre<\/a>
\nFashionable Past<\/a> &\u00a0Koshka the Cat<\/a>
\nHistorical Sewing
\n<\/a>Isis’ wardrobe
\n<\/a>Costumers Closet<\/a><\/p>\n

Well then, you have sucked the inspiration and now is time to decide the model and search for the pattern. I wantend to draft my own rather than buy one, so I printed couple years ago from La Couturier Parisienne<\/a> instructions how to draft 1700’s stays pattern. That particular pattern and instructions no longer exist, but similar instead. I even had drafted the pattern and it was almost ready for muslin version. But I just never got around\u00a0actually\u00a0finishing it and sewing the muslin.<\/p>\n

For unpracticed eye like me, all 1700’s corset, often referred as “stays”, look pretty much the same. But closer inspections reveals that there are different styles. Stays doesn’t form the hips like victorian corset. It is separated to small flaps on the hips. At the Stays workshop I learned that in the 1700’s corset meant garment that is covered with boning from end to end. There is no gaps between the bones at all, unlike in Victorian or modern corsets. Boning goes from top to bottom vertically, all the way to the flaps, or diagonally from sides towards the middle. Towards the end of the century they also added horisontal boning on bust, to give the stays barrel shaped bodice.<\/p>\n

Stays could be open either back or front, or both. I chose to put laces both back and front to make it more versatile and also to give more allowance if my body changes. Unlike nowadays, in the 1700’s stays was undergarment and visible very rarely. It was also rather valuable garment because boning was real whale bone, which was expensive stuff. Only rich people, like those in the court, could afford to have several stays.<\/p>\n

\"1700stays\"<\/a>
\nPic.<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

The model that I chose is closest to the 1740’s model. La Couturiere Parisienne’s pattern was pretty good on the backside, but front needed some alterations. Shoulder strap was too much on the side. Depending on how much you want to tighten the stays, you should make intakes on the circumference. Stays should be about 5-10 cm smaller than your own measurements. After these changes I made the muslin from sturdy fabric, it should feel rather sturdy on you. Because 1700’s stays are worn ontop of chemise, you can do the fitting ontop thin top or blouse, but without bra if you intend to wear it without bra. You can draw the changes directly on the muslin and then transfer them to the actual pattern. Make sure in the fitting that the stays doesn’t come too high up on armpit or too close to the arm on the sides. It is really unconfortable if the boning bites to your flesh around the arm.<\/p>\n

After the fitting I did final changes to the pattern. Project will continue when I have time to cut the actual fabrics. I’m no professional in making stays, because this is the very first, but if you have questions I try to answer them as good as I can. Interwebs is also full of tutorials and instructions, so if you got excited, do dig in.<\/p>\n

\"kureliivi1\"
\n<\/a>Alla alkuper\u00e4inen pari vuotta vanha kaava. P\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 uudet muokatut<\/strong><\/span>
\n kaavat. Takakappale jaettu kahteen osaan, etukappale kahteen<\/strong><\/span>
\n osaan sek\u00e4 irralliseen etupalaan jonka p\u00e4\u00e4lle tulee ny\u00f6ritys. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n Original couple years old pattern on the bottom. New altered<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n pattern on top. Back is diveded in two pieces, front devided in two<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n pieces and the separate middle piece. Lacing goes ontop of\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n the middle piece.\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"kureliivi2\"<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Sovite ja siihen piirretyt vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6linja ja muutokset. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n Muslin and drawn waistline and alterations.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Olen vihdoin aloittanut projektin jota olen suunnitellut jo pidemp\u00e4\u00e4n. Aika on vaan aina niin kortilla ett\u00e4 jotkin projektit v\u00e4ist\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4 j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t hyllylle odottelemaan. Mutta viikonloppuna L’amusette’n kureliivitalkoissa t\u00e4m\u00e4 jo useampi vuosi sitten aloitettu projekti py\u00f6r\u00e4hti kunnolla k\u00e4yntiin. Jaan projektin useampaan postaukseen koska asiaa tulee nyt paljon ja valmistumisessakin saattaa kest\u00e4\u00e4 jonkin aikaa. Olen haaveillut 1700-luvun korsetista… <\/p>\n

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