{"id":4861,"date":"2013-12-22T13:28:10","date_gmt":"2013-12-22T11:28:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=4861"},"modified":"2014-12-01T12:37:11","modified_gmt":"2014-12-01T10:37:11","slug":"diy-vinonauhan-ompelu-sewing-bias-tape","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=4861","title":{"rendered":"DIY: Vinonauhan ompelu \/ Sewing bias tape"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ensimm\u00e4isen\u00e4 pieni ilmoitusasia. Mulla n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 blogin kanssa olevan pieni sp\u00e4mmiongelma. Sp\u00e4mmilaatikkoon tuuppaa roskapostia aikamoista huikua, noin tuhatta viesti\u00e4 p\u00e4iv\u00e4ss\u00e4. Yleens\u00e4 olen pyrkinyt tarkistamaan sp\u00e4mmin seasta oikeat viestit pois (harvoin niit\u00e4 sinne menee, mutta joskus kuitenkin)<\/strong><\/span>, mutta nyt sp\u00e4mmin m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 on niin j\u00e4rjet\u00f6n ett\u00e4 en mill\u00e4\u00e4n en\u00e4\u00e4 kykene niit\u00e4 k\u00e4ym\u00e4\u00e4n l\u00e4pi. Eli jos kommentteihin kirjoittamasi viestisi ei koskaan tule n\u00e4kyviin niin syy on sp\u00e4mmilaatikossa (hyv\u00e4ksynt\u00e4\u00e4 odottavatkin tulevat n\u00e4kyviin viimeist\u00e4\u00e4n seuraavana p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4)<\/strong><\/span>. Eli sitten vaan uutta yrityst\u00e4 kehiin ja vaikka meilin\u00e4 viesti\u00e4 mulle niin tied\u00e4n kaivella viestin esiin.<\/p>\n

Mutta sitten p\u00e4\u00e4asiaan. Olisiko taas aika pikkuruiselle tutoriaalille? Aivan selv\u00e4sti olisi (kaikki ny\u00f6kytt\u00e4\u00e4)<\/strong><\/span>! Ommellaanpa vaikka t\u00e4ss\u00e4 jouluaattoa odotellessa hieman kanttauksia. Kanttaukseen voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 valmista vinonauhaa kankaan s\u00e4vyyn soinnutettuna tai kontrastiv\u00e4risen\u00e4. Vinonauhaa voi valmistaa my\u00f6s itse ja k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 samaa kangasta kuin itse vaate tai jotakin t\u00e4ysin muuta, esim pilkullista tai ruudullista hauskan efektin luomiseksi. Vinokanttia on helppo valmistaa itse esim t\u00e4m\u00e4n tutoriaalin ohjeella<\/a>. (Tai t\u00e4ll\u00e4 ohjeella<\/span><\/a>.)<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Laadukkaan valmisvinonauhan tunnistaa siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 se tuntuu j\u00e4m\u00e4k\u00e4lt\u00e4. J\u00e4m\u00e4kkyys johtuu t\u00e4rkist\u00e4. Se helpottaa ompelua sill\u00e4 vinonauha pit\u00e4isi saada kiinnitetty\u00e4 vain yhdell\u00e4 ainokaisella ompeleella. Jos vinonauha tuntuu kovin l\u00f6ps\u00f6lt\u00e4 on ompelu vaikeampaa (etenkin satiinisen vinonauhan)<\/strong><\/span> ja se voi alkaa helposti kiert\u00e4\u00e4. Itse valmistettua vinonauhaa ei tarvitse t\u00e4rk\u00e4t\u00e4 mutta ompelussa pit\u00e4\u00e4 olla tarkkana.<\/p>\n

Ennen kiinnitt\u00e4mist\u00e4 kannattaa tarkistaa nauhan taite. Taita vinonauhan alkup\u00e4\u00e4 kaksinkerroin pituussuunnassa. Nauhan “oikea” puoli, eli se puoli joka on ommellessa p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4, on aivan aavistuksen kapeampi kuin alle j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4 puoli. T\u00e4m\u00e4 helpottaa ompelua eik\u00e4 alle j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4 puoli luiskahda niin helposti pois tikin alta. Itse valmistettu vinonauha kannattaa silitt\u00e4\u00e4 taitteelle valmiiksi niin ett\u00e4 alle j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4 puoli on 1-2 mm leve\u00e4mpi.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Firstly an announcement. I seem to be having a bit of a spam problem with the blog. There is about thousand spam messages per day, which go straight to the spam box. Usually I have checked them for messages that are incorrectly marked as spam (allthough there is not so many, but occasionally anyway)<\/strong><\/span>, but now the amount of spam is so huge I can’t go through them anymore. So if the comment you wrote never comes through, reason is the spam box (even those waiting for moderation are usually accepted the next day at the latest)<\/strong><\/span>. Send another message and you can also notify me via email, so that I know to dig your messsage out of spam.<\/p>\n

But then to the actual issue. Would it be time for little tutorial again? I’m sure it would be (everyone nods)<\/strong><\/span>! So, let’s sew some trims. You can use readymade bias tape on similar or contrasting colour. You can also make bias tape yourself, either from the garment’s fabric or something different, like polkadot or plaid fabric for interesting effect. Bias tape is easy to make for example with this tutorial<\/a>. (Or whit this tutorial<\/span><\/a>.)<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

You recognize quality bias tape from the stiffness. That is due to the starch. It makes the sewing easier, since you’re supposed to sew it with only one seam. If the bias tape feels quite soft it will be more difficult to sew (especially if it’s satin)<\/strong><\/span> and it can easily start twisting. You don’t need to starch selfmade bias tape, but you need to be careful when sewing not to stretch it too much.<\/p>\n

Before sewing, check it by folding the tape in half lengthwise, from that end where you start sewing. The right side, meaning the half which will be on top when sewing, is very slightly narrower than the bottom half. This will make sewing easier and the bottom doesn’t slip away from the seam. You can iron the selfmade bias tape so that the bottom half is about 1-2 mm wider.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Valmis kaupan vinonauha taitettuna. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n Readymade bias tape which I double folded myself.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apuv\u00e4lineit\u00e4, eli pallistajia vinonauhan silitt\u00e4miseen. Eri leveyksille
\nomat ty\u00f6kalunsa. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n Tools for making bias tape.You need separate tool for every width.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Itse valmistettua kanttausnauhaa, t\u00e4ss\u00e4 poikkeuksellisesti\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\n langansuoraan leikattuna. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n Selfmade edging tape, here it is exceptionally cut along the<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n grainline, not bias.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Itse valmistettu kanttinauha kannattaa silitt\u00e4\u00e4 valmiiksi kahtia.
\nKaupan valmiskanttia ei tarvitse silitt\u00e4\u00e4 ennen ompelua.
\nOmpelua helpottaa alapuolen ja p\u00e4\u00e4llipuolen v\u00e4linen leveysero. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n Home made trimming or bias tape is easier to sew if you iron
\nthe double fold. Readymade tape doesn’t need ironing.
\nDifference on the width between top\u00a0and bottom edge
\nmakes\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>it easier to sew.\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Ommellessa vinonauhaa ei kannata venytt\u00e4\u00e4 sill\u00e4 se johtaa helposti nauhan kiert\u00e4miseen (nauhaan muodostuu vinottaisia kupruja)<\/strong><\/span>. Nauha pidet\u00e4\u00e4n paikoillaan venytt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4, tarvittaessa sit\u00e4 voidaan jopa hieman sy\u00f6tt\u00e4\u00e4 mutta ei niin paljoa ett\u00e4 siihen muodostuu ryppyj\u00e4 tikin alle. Ulosp\u00e4in kaarevissa reunoissa nauhaa kuitenkin venytet\u00e4\u00e4n ulkoreunasta (taitteelta)<\/strong><\/span> niin ett\u00e4 se asettuu kaarevalle osuudelle kauniisti. Sis\u00e4\u00e4np\u00e4in kaarevissa reunoissa taas venytet\u00e4\u00e4n vastaavasti nauhan sis\u00e4reunaa (ommeltava reuna)<\/strong><\/span>.\u00a0Vinokanttauksen p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 saadaa siisti taittelemalla se “itsens\u00e4 sis\u00e4\u00e4n” ennen ompelua. Alla oleva kuvasarja n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 sen yksityiskohtaisesti.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

When sewing you are not supposed to stretch the tape. That can cause twisting and little folds. You just keep tape in place without stretching, and if needed you can also feed it little. However do not feed so much that little folds are formed under the stiches. On curved edges you stretch either the folded edge of the bias or the open edge. On inner curves you stretch the open edge and on outer curves you stretch the folded edge. The end of the bias trim becomes tidy when you fold it inside itself. Following photos show you how to do it.<\/p>\n

\"bias5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

1. Avaa aloitusp\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 toisen reunan taitos (nauhan saumanvara). \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n 1. Open the fold on other edge (it’s the seam allowance) on start.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"bias6\"<\/a><\/p>\n

2. Taita p\u00e4\u00e4 nauhan taitteiden yli, noin vajaan sentin matkalta. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n 2. Fold the end of tape over the edge, about 1 cm allowance.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"bias7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

3. Taita nauha kaksinkerroin pituussuuntaan taitteiden puoliv\u00e4list\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n 3. Create double fold in the middle, leave allowance out.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"bias8\"<\/a><\/p>\n

4. Pujota saumanvara p\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 taitoksen v\u00e4liin, muodostuu er\u00e4\u00e4nlainen<\/strong><\/span>
\n kirjekuoritaitos. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n 4. Fold the allowance under the double fold, creating sort of<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n envelope fold.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"bias9\"<\/a><\/p>\n

5. Pujota kantattava kappale taitoksen v\u00e4liin. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n 5. Place your piece of fabric between the fold.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"bias10\"<\/a><\/p>\n

6. Ompele normaaliin tapaan. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n 6. Sew as normal.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"bias11\"<\/a><\/p>\n

7. Loppup\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 katkaise nauha noin 1 cm p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n 7. On finishing end, cut the tape from about 1 cm.\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"bias12\"<\/a><\/p>\n

8. Taittele samoin kuin aloitusp\u00e4\u00e4, mutta peilikuvana. Pujota kangas<\/strong><\/span>
\n taitteen v\u00e4liin ja ompele loppuun. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n 8. Fold the same way than starting point, but as mirror image.<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n Place the fabric between the fold and finish sewing.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Rengasmaisissa reunoissa\u00a0(esim hihansuu tai hameenhelma)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0vinokantti p\u00e4\u00e4tell\u00e4\u00e4n tekem\u00e4ll\u00e4 “jatkoskohta” niin ett\u00e4 kanttauksen alku- ja loppup\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 j\u00e4tet\u00e4\u00e4n ompelematta n. 15cm matkalta. Mittaa nauhan menekki jatkoskohtaan tarkasti jotta se ei j\u00e4\u00e4 kuprulle tai kirist\u00e4. Vinonauhan p\u00e4\u00e4t viistotaan langansuuntaisesti samaan suuntaan j\u00e4tt\u00e4en n. 0, 5-1 cm saumanvaraa. \u00a0Nauhan taitteet avataan, p\u00e4\u00e4t asetetaan limitt\u00e4in, oikeat puolet vastakkain ja ommellaan saumanvaran et\u00e4isyydelt\u00e4. K\u00e4\u00e4nn\u00e4 saumanvarat erilleen, palauta nauhan taitteet paikoilleen ja viimeistele kanttaus tikkaamalla loppuosa. Alla viel\u00e4 kuvallista ohjeistusta.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

On circular edges\u00a0(like sleeve edge or skirt hem)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0the finishing of the trim is being done as follows: leave about 3 inches from both ends unsewed, measure the tape carefully so that it doesn’t either stretch nor bulge, cut both ends of bias tape angled\u00a0(according the actual grainline)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0\u00a0and leave about 1\/5 to 2\/5 inches seam allowance. Open the folds on the bias tape, place the ends towards each other and sew combining seam. Separate seam allowances, fold the bias tape and sew the rest of the edge on place. Check photos below.<\/p>\n

\"vinonauha1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

J\u00e4t\u00e4 ompelematta n. 10-15 cm matkalta. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nLeave \u00a0about 4-6 inches gap on the seam.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"vinonauha2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Mittaa p\u00e4iden tarkka pituus ja lyhenn\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4t viistosti niin ett\u00e4 j\u00e4\u00e4 n. 0,5 cm<\/strong><\/span>
\nsaumanvaraa. Huom: molemmissa p\u00e4iss\u00e4 viistous samaan suuntaan! \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nMeasure the length of both ends and trim the ends angled, leave about<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\n1\/5 inch\u00a0seam allowance. Notice: angle on both ends to the same direction!<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"vinonauha3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ompele p\u00e4\u00e4t yhteen. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nSew ends together.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"vinonauha4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tarkista ett\u00e4 pituus on hyv\u00e4 ja kiinnit\u00e4 kantti paikoilleen. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nCheck that length is good and finish by sewing the gap on the trim.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"trim1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Valmis kantattu rusetti. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nFinished trimmed bow.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"trim2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vinokantattu p\u00e4\u00e4ntie ja k\u00e4dentie. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nTrimmed neckline and armhole.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ensimm\u00e4isen\u00e4 pieni ilmoitusasia. Mulla n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 blogin kanssa olevan pieni sp\u00e4mmiongelma. Sp\u00e4mmilaatikkoon tuuppaa roskapostia aikamoista huikua, noin tuhatta viesti\u00e4 p\u00e4iv\u00e4ss\u00e4. Yleens\u00e4 olen pyrkinyt tarkistamaan sp\u00e4mmin seasta oikeat viestit pois (harvoin niit\u00e4 sinne menee, mutta joskus kuitenkin), mutta nyt sp\u00e4mmin m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 on niin j\u00e4rjet\u00f6n ett\u00e4 en mill\u00e4\u00e4n en\u00e4\u00e4 kykene niit\u00e4 k\u00e4ym\u00e4\u00e4n l\u00e4pi. Eli jos kommentteihin kirjoittamasi viestisi… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7405,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Calendar door 22: Sewing bias tape","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[8],"tags":[221,232,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-4861","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-diy","8":"tag-christmas-calendar-2013","9":"tag-diy","10":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","12":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/trim1.jpg?fit=600%2C359","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-1gp","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4861","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4861"}],"version-history":[{"count":25,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4861\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7408,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4861\/revisions\/7408"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/7405"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4861"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4861"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4861"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}