{"id":4434,"date":"2012-02-06T00:56:05","date_gmt":"2012-02-05T21:56:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=4434"},"modified":"2012-02-06T00:58:59","modified_gmt":"2012-02-05T21:58:59","slug":"diy-jakun-istuvuusmuutokset-fitting-a-jacket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=4434","title":{"rendered":"DIY: Jakun istuvuusmuutokset \/ Fitting a jacket"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Minulta on toivottu enemm\u00e4n tuunaus-tutoriaaleja ja tarkempia ohjeita istuvuusmuutoksien tekemiseen. T\u00e4ysin tarkkoja ohjeita istuvuusmuutoksiin on sik\u00e4li hankala antaa ett\u00e4 jokaisen vartalo on erilainen ja erilaisille vartaloille teht\u00e4v\u00e4t muutokset vaativat hieman erilaisia toimenpiteit\u00e4. Riippuen toki my\u00f6skin vaatteesta itsest\u00e4\u00e4n. Yleisp\u00e4tevi\u00e4 ohjeita voin kuitenkin antaa. P\u00e4\u00e4periaate on ett\u00e4 isosta on helpompi pienent\u00e4\u00e4 kuin pienest\u00e4 suurentaa. Useimmissa tapauksissa suurentaminen on jopa mahdotonta.<\/p>\n<p>T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa fiksattavana on 60-luvun ompelijan tekem\u00e4 vuoriton jakku joka oli pari numeroa liian suuri. Ensimm\u00e4inen toimenpide on luonnollisesti vaatteen sovittaminen ja tarvittavien korjaust\u00f6iden arviointi. Katsotaan miten muotolaskokset asettuvat, ovatko ne oikeilla kohdillaan ja tarvitseeko niit\u00e4 siirt\u00e4\u00e4, syvent\u00e4\u00e4 tai lis\u00e4t\u00e4. Joskus pienent\u00e4miseen riitt\u00e4\u00e4 muotolaskosten syvent\u00e4minen tai lis\u00e4\u00e4minen, toisinaan tarvitaan suurempia sis\u00e4\u00e4nottoja sivusaumoista. Lis\u00e4ksi tarkistetaan hihojen koko ja paikka olalla, kauluksen ja\/tai p\u00e4\u00e4ntien koko ja muoto sek\u00e4 vaatteen pituus.<\/p>\n<p>Kun arvio tarvittavista korjauksista on tehty, voidaan korjaukset merkit\u00e4 nuppineuloin kohdilleen. Itselleen sovittaminen on hieman hankalaa joten sovituskaverista voi olla apua. Vuorittomaan vaatteeseen neulaaminen k\u00e4y k\u00e4tevimmin jos sen pukee p\u00e4\u00e4lle nurinperin. Silloin neulat saa suoraan oikeisiin kohtiin ja muutokset voi ommella ilman kikkailuja\u00a0 mittatarkistusten j\u00e4lkeen. Vuorellisiin vaatteisiin neulat on kiinnitett\u00e4v\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4lipuolelle. Jos sis\u00e4\u00e4notot ovat suuret kannattaa hihat ratkoa irti ennen neulaamista. N\u00e4it\u00e4 samoja ohjeita voi soveltaa niin puseroille kuin puvuillekin.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>IN ENGLISH<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\nI&#8217;ve got requests for more revamp-tutorials and more pricise instructions for fitting alterations. Completely accurate instructions for fitting alterations is tricky to give because every body is different and specific alterations are slightly different for each individual. And they also depend on the garment in question. However, general instructions I can give. Main principal is that it is always easier to make something smaller than larger. In most cases enlargening is impossible even.<\/p>\n<p>This time I got couple size too large, 60&#8217;s jacket without lining, made by seamstress. First job is to put it on and estimate the repairs needed. Check how the darts place, are they in correct place, do they need to be moved, deepened or does the garment need more of them.\u00a0 Sometimes adding more darts isn&#8217;t enough but you need to make intakes on the sideseams. Also check how the sleeves fit and are they on correct spot on the shoulder, size and shape of the neckline and\/or collar and the length of the garment.<\/p>\n<p>When estimate of the repairs is done, you can pin them to place. It&#8217;s tricky to do the fitting to yourself so it helps if you have friend assisting. Garment that doesn&#8217;t have lining is easier to pin if you are wearing it inside out. Then pins go directly to the correct place and you can sew right after the measurement check. Lined clothing is best to pin on the right side. If you are making large intakes it might be better if you take the sleeves off before fitting. These same basic instructions work for blouses and dresses aswell.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket1.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4439\" title=\"jacket1\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket1.jpg?resize=450%2C744\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"744\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket1.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket1.jpg?resize=181%2C300 181w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket2.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4440\" title=\"jacket2\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket2.jpg?resize=450%2C751\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"751\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket2.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket2.jpg?resize=119%2C200 119w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket2.jpg?resize=179%2C300 179w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Sovitus ja korjaustarpeen arviointi:<br \/>\nliian suuri ymp\u00e4rysmitta &#8211;&gt; sivusaumoista sis\u00e4\u00e4notto &amp; tampin lyhennys<br \/>\nalhaalla roikkuvat, l\u00f6ys\u00e4t hihat &#8211;&gt; hihojen kavennus ja nosto olalla<br \/>\nkankaassa pari pient\u00e4 reik\u00e4\u00e4 &#8211;&gt; reikien paikkaus<br \/>\ntyls\u00e4t napit &#8211;&gt; nappien vaihto<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>First fitting and evaluation of repairs:<br \/>\ntoo much circumference &#8211;&gt; intakes from sideseams &amp; shorter belt<br \/>\nloose, hanging sleeves &#8211;&gt; intakes on sleeves and fitting higher on the shoulder<br \/>\ntwo small holes on the fabric &#8211;&gt; repair holes<br \/>\nboring buttons &#8211;&gt; change buttons<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket3.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4441\" title=\"jacket3\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket3.jpg?resize=450%2C675\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"675\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket3.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket3.jpg?resize=133%2C200 133w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket3.jpg?resize=200%2C300 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Hihat purettu irti, jakku puettu nurinp\u00e4in,<br \/>\nsivuisaumoihin merkitty sis\u00e4\u00e4notto nuppineuloin.<\/strong><\/span><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong> Jos kavensit<br \/>\nvaatetta kainaloon saakka on hihoista kavennettava saman verran.<br \/>\nNeulaa sis\u00e4\u00e4notto my\u00f6s hihoihin. <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Sleeves are off, fitting jacket inside out,<br \/>\nintakes pinned on sideseams. If the intake reaches all the way<br \/>\nto the armhole make sure to take same amount in on the sleeves aswell.<br \/>\nPin it to both sleeves.<br \/>\n<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket4.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4442\" title=\"jacket4\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket4.jpg?resize=450%2C717\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"717\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket4.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket4.jpg?resize=125%2C200 125w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket4.jpg?resize=188%2C300 188w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong> <\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Tarkista sis\u00e4\u00e4nottojen symmetrisyys, molemmilta puolilta pit\u00e4\u00e4 l\u00e4hte\u00e4 saman verran.<br \/>\nJos teet sis\u00e4\u00e4notot muotolaskoksin varmista ett\u00e4 muotolaskokset<br \/>\novat symmetrisill\u00e4 paikoilla, ne ovat yht\u00e4 syv\u00e4t ja yht\u00e4 pitk\u00e4t.<br \/>\nK\u00e4\u00e4nn\u00e4 vaate neuloineen oikein p\u00e4in ja sovita varovasti varmistaen<br \/>\nsis\u00e4\u00e4nottojen istuvuus. Sovita hihat samoin. Ompele saumat,<br \/>\nkavenna saumanvarat tarvittaessa ja huolittele, silit\u00e4 saumat litte\u00e4ksi.<br \/>\n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Measure to make sure that intakes are symmetrical, amount has to be identical<br \/>\non both sides. If you are making darts, make sure they are on symmetrical places,<br \/>\nthey are equally deep and equally long. Carefully turn garment right side out<br \/>\nwith pins and try it on. This is to confirm the right amount of intakes.<br \/>\nDo same fitting to the sleeves. Sew new sideseams\/darts, cut off excess seam<br \/>\nallowances if needed and overlock, iron seams flat.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket5.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4443\" title=\"jacket5\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket5.jpg?resize=450%2C675\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"675\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket5.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket5.jpg?resize=133%2C200 133w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/jacket5.jpg?resize=200%2C300 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Pue vaate uudelleen p\u00e4\u00e4lle ja sovita kavennettu hiha olalle. Hyvin istuvassa<br \/>\nvaatteessa hihan oikea kohta on olkaluun kulmalla. Merkitse neuloin tai<br \/>\nharsimalla uusi hihan kiinnityskohta sek\u00e4 edess\u00e4 ett\u00e4 takana. Tarkista ett\u00e4<br \/>\nuusi ompelulinja on sulavan kaareva, ilman ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4isi\u00e4 mutkia.<br \/>\nNeulaa hiha paikoilleen ja ompele kiinni. Leikkaa pois<br \/>\nylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4inen saumanvara ja huolittele.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Try garment on again and pin the sleeve on the shoulder. In wellfitting<br \/>\ngarment the correct place is on the corner of the shoulder bone.<br \/>\nMark new seamline with pins or basting, back and front. Make sure new<br \/>\nline is smoothly curved. Pin the sleeve on the new line and sew.<br \/>\nCut off excess seam allowance and overlock. <\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><em><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket6.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4591\" title=\"jacket6\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket6.jpg?resize=450%2C587\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"587\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket6.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket6.jpg?resize=150%2C195 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket6.jpg?resize=229%2C300 229w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><br \/>\nTee loput pikkukorjaukset ja sitten vaate onkin k\u00e4ytt\u00f6valmis.<br \/>\nT\u00e4ss\u00e4 napit viel\u00e4 vaihtamatta.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><em>Make the final little tune up and then it&#8217;s finished and ready for use.<br \/>\nHere the buttons still need replacing.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><em><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket8.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4594\" title=\"jacket8\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket8.jpg?resize=450%2C583\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"583\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket8.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket8.jpg?resize=150%2C194 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket8.jpg?resize=231%2C300 231w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><br \/>\nPienet rei\u00e4t voi paikata kankaasta puretulla langalla. Lankaa voi<br \/>\npurkaa sivusaumoista poistetusta ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4isest\u00e4 kankaasta.<br \/>\nOmpele j\u00e4ljitellen kankaan sidosta, t\u00e4ss\u00e4 palttina: yhden langan yli,<br \/>\nyhden langan ali, yhden langan yli jne. Tee sama molempiin suuntiin.<br \/>\n<em><br \/>\nSmall holes you can mend with yarn taken from the fabric itself. You can<br \/>\nunravel the leftovers cut from the sides for yarn. Imitate the weave of<br \/>\nthe fabric: here under one threadh, over one thread, under one thread<br \/>\nand so on. Do the same on both directions.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><em><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket7.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4593\" title=\"jacket7\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket7.jpg?resize=450%2C662\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"662\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket7.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket7.jpg?resize=135%2C200 135w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/jacket7.jpg?resize=203%2C300 203w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><br \/>\nT\u00e4ss\u00e4 korjattu reik\u00e4, kauempaa katsottuna varsin huomaamaton.<br \/>\n<em><br \/>\nMended hole, looking from further it is almost unnoticable.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Minulta on toivottu enemm\u00e4n tuunaus-tutoriaaleja ja tarkempia ohjeita istuvuusmuutoksien tekemiseen. T\u00e4ysin tarkkoja ohjeita istuvuusmuutoksiin on sik\u00e4li hankala antaa ett\u00e4 jokaisen vartalo on erilainen ja erilaisille vartaloille teht\u00e4v\u00e4t muutokset vaativat hieman erilaisia toimenpiteit\u00e4. Riippuen toki my\u00f6skin vaatteesta itsest\u00e4\u00e4n. Yleisp\u00e4tevi\u00e4 ohjeita voin kuitenkin antaa. P\u00e4\u00e4periaate on ett\u00e4 isosta on helpompi pienent\u00e4\u00e4 kuin pienest\u00e4 suurentaa. Useimmissa tapauksissa suurentaminen&#8230; <\/p>\n<div class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=4434\">Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[8,25,7],"tags":[232,104,126],"class_list":["post-4434","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-diy","category-eviltuunaa","category-projektit","tag-diy","tag-projects","tag-sewing-other-crafts","has-post-thumbnail","fallback-thumbnail"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-19w","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4434","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4434"}],"version-history":[{"count":21,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4434\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4602,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4434\/revisions\/4602"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4434"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4434"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4434"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}