{"id":3156,"date":"2011-06-27T19:41:53","date_gmt":"2011-06-27T16:41:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=3156"},"modified":"2015-11-15T02:32:22","modified_gmt":"2015-11-15T00:32:22","slug":"pitsin-ompelu-ohje-tutorial-sewing-lace","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=3156","title":{"rendered":"Pitsin ompelu-ohje \/ Tutorial: Sewing lace"},"content":{"rendered":"

Mites on? Te jotka harrastatte ompelua niin ompeletteko paljon pitsi\u00e4? Pid\u00e4ttek\u00f6 sen ompelusta vai tuntuuko se teist\u00e4 vaikealta? Ompelin tuossa yhden pitsimekon itselleni ja totesin sit\u00e4 tehdess\u00e4 ett\u00e4 jonkinlainen pitsi-tutoriaali voisi olla paikallaan. Eli t\u00e4ss\u00e4 se sitten tulee, vinkkej\u00e4 vuorittoman pitsivaatteen ompeluun<\/strong><\/span>.<\/p>\n

Yleist\u00e4 pitsist\u00e4<\/strong><\/span>
\nOle tarkkana pitsi\u00e4 leikatessasi sill\u00e4 saksien k\u00e4rjet takertuvat helposti pitsin reikiin. Ei ole kiva huomata kesken ompelun, ett\u00e4 on leikellyt kappaleiden keskelle ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4isi\u00e4 reiki\u00e4 (been there, done that)<\/strong><\/span>. Mieti my\u00f6s miss\u00e4 ja millaisin asustein aiot vaatetta k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4. Etenkin isoreik\u00e4inen pitsi tarttuu helposti v\u00e4h\u00e4n kaikkeen. Ei ole sek\u00e4\u00e4n kivaa ett\u00e4 kesken bileiden huomaa vaikkapa kameralaukun vetoketjun repineen rei\u00e4n hienoon pitsimekkoosi (been there, done that)<\/strong><\/span> tai j\u00e4\u00e4 joka kerta mekosta kiinni ovenkahvaan (been there, done that)<\/strong><\/span>. Pitsej\u00e4 on eri tyyppisi\u00e4 joista toiset ovat kest\u00e4v\u00e4mpi\u00e4 kuin toiset. Kaikesta harmista huolimatta se on ihana materiaali josta ei voi saada tarpeekseen. Erilaisista pitseist\u00e4 voit lukea lis\u00e4\u00e4 t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

How is it? Those of you who do sewing as a hobby, do you ever sew lace? Do you like sewing it or does it feel difficult? I made lace dress for myself and realized that some sort of tutorial for lace might be handy. So here it comes, helpfull tips for sewing lace garment without lining<\/strong><\/span>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Lace in general<\/strong><\/span>
\nBe carefull when cutting lace. Scissors get easily caught on the holes. It is not nice when you notice later that you have done several more holes in the middle of the pieces (been there, done that)<\/strong><\/span>. Think also where and with what accessories you are going to wear your lace garment. Especially lace with large holes gets caught in almost anything. It is not nice to notice in the middle of your party that for example your camera bag zipper has done large hole on your lace dress (been there, done that)<\/strong><\/span>, or get caught on the door handle every time (been there, done that)<\/strong><\/span>. There are different kinds of lace, some more durable than others. Nevertheless, lace is adorable material which you just can’t get enough. You can read more about laces in here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/em>Saumuroitu saumanvara \/ <\/strong>Overlock (serged) seam allowance<\/strong>
\n<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Saumanvarat<\/strong><\/span>
\nPitsille ominaisen reik\u00e4isyyden vuoksi saumanvarat n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t aina l\u00e4pi. Siksi kannattaa mietti\u00e4 millaiset saumanvarat soveltuvat vaatteeseen parhaiten. Sauman kohtakin voi vaikuttaa saumanvaran laatuun. Joissain tapauksissa parasta on tehd\u00e4 kapeat saumuroidut saumanvarat, joskus taas eri suuntiin silitetyt leikatut reunat ovat paremmat. Useimmat pitsikankaat eiv\u00e4t purkaudu vaan saumanvaroihin voi j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 leikatun ns. raakareunan.<\/p>\n

Seam allowance<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\nBecause holes in the lace, seam allowance always shows a bit. You should think what kind of seam allowance is the best for your clothing. Even the placement of the seam can affect on it. In some cases it’s best to have narrow overlock\/serged seam allowance. Sometimes just cut allowances ironed separately are the best option. Most lace fabrics don’t fray so you can leave it raw.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/em>Pitsikuvion mukaan leikattu reuna \/ <\/strong>Cut edge, along the lace patterns<\/strong>
\n<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Reunat<\/strong><\/span>
\nReunojen, kuten helman, p\u00e4\u00e4ntien ja hihojen huolitteluun on useita erilaisia tapoja. Suoran reunan voi huolitella leikkaamalla sen pitsikuvion mukaan koristeelliseksi. Yleens\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4 toimii ainoastaan jos voit k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 reunaan pitsikankaan valmista kuvioreunaa. Suoraan reunaan, kuten helmaan tai hihansuuhun kankaan reunaa voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 sellaisenaan mutta kaarevissa reunoissa kuten p\u00e4\u00e4ntiell\u00e4 saatat joutua leikkaamaan kankaan reunasta suikaleen joka sitten muotoillaan p\u00e4\u00e4ntielle. Toinen vaihtoehto on ommella reunaan normaali p\u00e4\u00e4rme, mutta j\u00e4lleen pitsin reik\u00e4isyys voi aiheuttaa sen ett\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4rmeest\u00e4 huolimatta reuna n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 ep\u00e4tasaiselta ja ep\u00e4siistilt\u00e4. N\u00e4in tapahtuu etenkin jos p\u00e4\u00e4rme on kovin kapea, kuten esim p\u00e4\u00e4ntiell\u00e4 usein on v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4t\u00f6nt\u00e4. Pitsiss\u00e4 kauneimman p\u00e4\u00e4rmeen saa tekem\u00e4ll\u00e4 siit\u00e4 reilusti leve\u00e4n.<\/p>\n

Siistein, mutta kaikkein n\u00e4kyvin vaihtoehto on huolitella reuna jonkinlaisella kaitaleella. Se voi olla pitsinauhaa, mit\u00e4 hyv\u00e4ns\u00e4 koristenauhaa tai vaikkapa vinokanttia. T\u00e4ysvinoon leikattu vinokantti muotoutuu py\u00f6reisiin tai kulmikkaisiin reunoihin helposti ja luo aikaan viimeistellyn fiiliksen. T\u00e4h\u00e4n voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 kaupasta valmiina saatavia puuvilla- tai satiinivinokantteja tai tehd\u00e4 vinokanttia itse mist\u00e4 tahansa tarkoitukseen soveltuvasta ohuehkosta kankaasta. Vinokanttia varten leikataan kankaasta kapeaa suikaletta t\u00e4ysvinoon. Suikaleen leveys on kaksi kertaa valmiin vinonauhan leveys. Eli jos vinonauhan leveys on 2,5 cm on suikaleen leveys leikattuna 5 cm. Suikaleen reunat taitetaan keskelle ja silitet\u00e4\u00e4n. Vinokantin tekemiseen saa my\u00f6s eri levyisi\u00e4 laitteita (=pallistajia)<\/strong><\/span> jonka avulla nauhan silitt\u00e4minen helpottuu ja nopeutuu huomattavasti. Lopuksi viel\u00e4 nauha taitetaan kaksinkerroin ja silitet\u00e4\u00e4n litte\u00e4ksi. Nyt nauha on helppo ommella kankaan reunaan yhdell\u00e4 ompeleella.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nVinonauhalla huoliteltu reuna \/ Edge trimmed with bias cut tape<\/em><\/strong>
\n<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Edges<\/strong><\/span>
\nTrimming edges, like hem, sleeves and neckline can be done in several different ways. If the edge is straight you can trim it just by cutting it according the pattern on the lace. Usually this looks best if you can use the actual woven edge of the lace fabric. You can use it as it is in straight edges like hemline or sleeves. On curvy edges, like neckline, you must cut some width of the fabric edge and trim your neckline with that, like you would use ordinary lace trimming. Other option is to use ordinary hemming, but again, the holes in lace might make it look uneven and messy. Especially if the hemming is very narrow, like quite often is the case on the neckline. Prettiest hemming on lace you get if you make it rather wide.<\/em><\/p>\n

Most stylish and neat option is to trim the edges with some sort of tape. It can be lace trimming or any other decorative ribbon or bias tape. Bias tape goes nicely around any kind of corners and shapes so it is easy for creating stylish look. You can use ready-made bias tape (usually available in cotton or satin)<\/strong><\/span> or you can make it yourself. Cut bias strips of thin solid fabric, twice as wide as your trimming will be. If your bias tape is going to be 2,5 cm (about 1 inch)<\/strong><\/span> cut strip 5 cm wide (about 2 inches wide)<\/strong><\/span>. Fold both edges to the middle and iron. You can also get bias tape makers that help you do the folding and ironing. And finally fold the tape in half and iron flat. Now you should be able to sew it around the edge with only one seam.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/em>Nappilista tuettu kaksinkertaisella vuorikankaalla \/<\/strong>
\nButtoning supported with double lining<\/strong>
\n<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Nappilistat, rannekkeet, kaulukset yms.<\/strong><\/span>
\nEtenk\u00e4\u00e4n nappilistat eiv\u00e4t pitsiss\u00e4 kest\u00e4 ilman tukimateriaalia. Napit joutuvat rasitukselle niin paljon ett\u00e4 pitsin ohuet langat eiv\u00e4t kest\u00e4. Sama juttu napinl\u00e4pien puolella. Tukemiseen voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 vaikka vuorikangasta tai muuta v\u00e4riin sopivaa ohutta kangasta. Itse k\u00e4ytin mattapintaista vuorikangasta jonka taitoin nappilistan sis\u00e4\u00e4n kaksinkerroin. Vuorikankaan lis\u00e4ksi voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 sen sis\u00e4ll\u00e4 tukikangasta jos lista vaatii erityist\u00e4 tuentaa. Pelkk\u00e4\u00e4 tukikangasta en suosittele sill\u00e4 liimapuoli j\u00e4\u00e4 n\u00e4kyviin pitsin l\u00e4pi eik\u00e4 liimalla ole riitt\u00e4v\u00e4sti tartuntapintaa. My\u00f6s rannekkeet, kaulukset ja muut vastaavat osat kannattaa tukea jotta ne pysyv\u00e4t paremmin ryhdiss\u00e4\u00e4n.<\/p>\n

Buttonings, cuffs, collars etc.<\/strong><\/span>
\nEspecially buttoning doesn’t last without support in lace. Buttons cause quite a bit stress over the fabric and thin threads of lace won’t last long. Same thing with buttonholes. You can use thin lining or other thin material to support. I used matte lining fabric which I folded double inside the lace fold. In addition to lining, you can also use interfacing if additional support is needed. Fusible interlining alone is not recommended. Glue will be visible through the lace and there isn’t enough smooth areas for glue to stick on. It is also worth to use some supporting material on cuffs, collars and other similar pieces to make them look more sharp. <\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

Muotolaskokset<\/strong><\/span>
\nVuoriton pitsivaate ei ole parhaimmillaan napakan istuvana koska kankaan saumat eiv\u00e4t kest\u00e4 voimakasta rasitusta. Siksi muotolaskosten koko ja paikka kannattaa harkita tarkkaan. Muotolaskoksen p\u00e4\u00e4 olisi parasta t\u00e4sm\u00e4t\u00e4 pitsin paksumpaan kohtaan repeytymisen v\u00e4ltt\u00e4miseksi. Parhaiten vuoriton pitsivaate toimiikin v\u00e4lj\u00e4n\u00e4 jolloin suuria muotolaskoksia ei tarvita.<\/p>\n

Darts<\/strong><\/span>
\nLace clothes without lining are not at their best if they are done extremely fitting. Fabric with large holes and very thin areas doesn’t take stretch very well. That is why you should consider the size and place for darts extremely carefully.\u00a0 You should try always placing the end of the dart on the thicker area of lace, to avoid ripping. Lace garment without lining works best if it’s loose, without big, fitted darts.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/em>P\u00e4\u00e4ntie & napituslista.
\nOlette varmaan huomanneet ett\u00e4 rakastan lasinappeja. \/
\n<\/strong><\/span> Neckline & buttoning.
\nYou have probably noticed that I love glass buttons.<\/strong><\/span>
\n<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mites on? Te jotka harrastatte ompelua niin ompeletteko paljon pitsi\u00e4? Pid\u00e4ttek\u00f6 sen ompelusta vai tuntuuko se teist\u00e4 vaikealta? Ompelin tuossa yhden pitsimekon itselleni ja totesin sit\u00e4 tehdess\u00e4 ett\u00e4 jonkinlainen pitsi-tutoriaali voisi olla paikallaan. Eli t\u00e4ss\u00e4 se sitten tulee, vinkkej\u00e4 vuorittoman pitsivaatteen ompeluun. Yleist\u00e4 pitsist\u00e4 Ole tarkkana pitsi\u00e4 leikatessasi sill\u00e4 saksien k\u00e4rjet takertuvat helposti pitsin reikiin…. <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[8,27,7,120],"tags":[232,168,104,126,169],"class_list":["post-3156","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-diy","category-evilompelee","category-projektit","category-tekstiileista","tag-diy","tag-lace","tag-projects","tag-sewing-other-crafts","tag-tutorials","has-post-thumbnail","fallback-thumbnail"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-OU","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3156","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3156"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3156\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10539,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3156\/revisions\/10539"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3156"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3156"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3156"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}