{"id":2790,"date":"2011-05-17T18:45:50","date_gmt":"2011-05-17T15:45:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=2790"},"modified":"2011-05-19T08:14:47","modified_gmt":"2011-05-19T05:14:47","slug":"turnyyripuku-vaihe-5-miehusta-bustle-gown-phase-5-bodice","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=2790","title":{"rendered":"Turnyyripuku – vaihe 5, miehusta \/ Bustle Gown – phase 5, bodice"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nyt otti ohraleip\u00e4, tapasi mummuni aina sanoa. Olen laiskotellut turnyyripuvun<\/a> (<– linkin takana puvun muut vaiheet)<\/strong><\/span> kanssa ja nyt se kostautui. Tarvitsen pukua sunnuntaina joten aikaa sen viimeistelyyn on alle viikko. Maanantaina otin h\u00e4rk\u00e4\u00e4 sarvista ja ryk\u00e4isin miehustan alulleen. Sovitin sovitusvaatteen valmiin helman kanssa n\u00e4hd\u00e4kseni miten takaosan laskokset asettuvat. Pient\u00e4 korjattavaa ilmeni mutta ei mit\u00e4\u00e4n j\u00e4ristytt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4, mik\u00e4 oli odotettavissakin koska olen periaatteessa samalla kaavalla jo tehnyt jakun aiemmin. Hihoja jouduin kaventamaan hieman jotta sain halutun napakasti istuvan mallin. Vuoritin jakun kauttaaltaan napakalla pellavalla jonka ompelin yhdess\u00e4\u00a0 miehustakankaan kanssa kiinni saumoihin. T\u00e4llainen vuoritus ryhdist\u00e4\u00e4 miehustakangasta enemm\u00e4n kuin tavallinen erillisen\u00e4 ommeltu vuori. Helman kanttasin miehustakankaasta tehdyll\u00e4 vinokantilla. Ilman koristeluja jakun ompeluun meni n. nelisen tuntia, koristeluihin useampi tunti k\u00e4sinompelua.<\/p>\n

Jakun alla en ajatellut k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 pitk\u00e4hihaista puseroa vaan ainoastaan jotain huomaamatonta toppia ja pitsist\u00e4 irtomiehustaa, koska jakku on aika l\u00e4mmin. Irtomiehustan kaavan l\u00f6ysin vanhasta kaavalehdest\u00e4.\u00a0 Pitsimiehustan tein noin tunnissa. Lis\u00e4sin siihen kaulusr\u00f6yhel\u00f6n eteen. P\u00e4\u00e4ntiehalkio on niskassa, huoliteltu vuorikankaasta tehdyll\u00e4 vinokantilla ja kiinnitet\u00e4\u00e4n kahdella nepparilla.<\/p>\n

IN ENGLISH<\/strong><\/span>
\nI’m in trouble. I’ve been lazy with my bustle gown<\/a> (<– click the link and find other phases of the bustle gown)<\/strong><\/span> and now I’m paying for it. I’m going to need it on sunday so I have less than week to finish it. On monday I took the bull by it’s horns and started working on the bodice. I fitted my pattern with the skirt to see how pleats match with the bustle. There was only minor adjustments, which was expected. I have done jacket before with this pattern so I wasn’t really expecting anything big. I adjusted the sleeves to make more snug silhuette. Bodice is underlined with stiff linen. It gives the fabric and whole jacket more stiffness than ordinary separately sewed lining. I hemmed the jacket with biascut tape, made of bodice fabric. Without decorations it took me about 4 hours to make the bodice, decorations took several hours of handsewing.<\/p>\n

Under the jacket I was going to use unnoticable jersey top and separate lace bodice with collar, because jacket is rather warm. I found suitable bodice pattern from vintage sewing magazine. I made the bodice in about an hour. I added neck ruffle in front. Opening for dressing the bodice is on the back, trimmed with bias tape and closed with two snap buttons.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nVanhalla pellavalakanalla vuoritetut hihat. \/
\nSleeves underlined with old\u00a0 linen bedsheet.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nJakku ilman hihoja, rypytetty koristenauha neulattu kiinni. \/
\nJacket without sleeves, gathered decorative satin tape pinned on place.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nMiehustan kiinnityksen\u00e4 hakasnauhaa. \/
\nBodice closure with hook & loop tape.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nMiehusta nurjalta, kauttaaltaan pellavalla vuoritettu.
\nHelman vinokanttaus ja takalaskokset. \/
\nBodice on reverse side, completely underlined with stiff linen.
\nBias tape trimmin and back pleats. <\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nHelma ja miehusta yhdess\u00e4. Helma valmis, miehustasta puuttuu koristeluja. \/
\nSkirt and bodice together. Skirt is finished, bodice needs more decoration.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nMallinuken uuma on “hieman” kapeampi kuin omani. \/
\nMannequin has a “tad” smaller waist than I do.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nJakku ja irtomiehusta, koristelut edelleen kesken. \/
\nJacket and separate lace bodice, decoration still needs finishing.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Irtomiehustan kaava. Kauluksen kaava tuossa p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4,
\ntosin ollakseen kaulaa my\u00f6t\u00e4ilev\u00e4 sen on oltava kaareva. \/
\nLace bodice pattern. Collar pattern on top, allthough
\nit needs to be more curvy to hug neck snuggly.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Pitsimiehusta valmiina. \/
\nFinished lace bodice. <\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nyt otti ohraleip\u00e4, tapasi mummuni aina sanoa. Olen laiskotellut turnyyripuvun (<– linkin takana puvun muut vaiheet) kanssa ja nyt se kostautui. Tarvitsen pukua sunnuntaina joten aikaa sen viimeistelyyn on alle viikko. Maanantaina otin h\u00e4rk\u00e4\u00e4 sarvista ja ryk\u00e4isin miehustan alulleen. Sovitin sovitusvaatteen valmiin helman kanssa n\u00e4hd\u00e4kseni miten takaosan laskokset asettuvat. Pient\u00e4 korjattavaa ilmeni mutta ei mit\u00e4\u00e4n… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,7,150],"tags":[162,129,104,126],"class_list":["post-2790","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-evilompelee","category-projektit","category-pukuhistoria","tag-bustle-gown","tag-costumes","tag-projects","tag-sewing-other-crafts","has-post-thumbnail","fallback-thumbnail"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-J0","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2790","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2790"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2790\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2819,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2790\/revisions\/2819"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2790"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2790"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2790"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}