{"id":2385,"date":"2011-03-22T21:19:43","date_gmt":"2011-03-22T18:19:43","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=2385"},"modified":"2011-03-23T09:31:20","modified_gmt":"2011-03-23T06:31:20","slug":"turnyyripuku-vaihe-4-miehusta-bustle-gown-phase-4-bodice","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=2385","title":{"rendered":"Turnyyripuku – vaihe 4, miehusta – Bustle Gown – phase 4, bodice"},"content":{"rendered":"

T\u00e4ss\u00e4 on ollut pient\u00e4 luovaa taukoa havaittavissa mutta nyt voitais ottaa taas k\u00e4sittelyyn turnyyripuku. Olen p\u00e4hk\u00e4illyt miehustan kaavan kanssa ja ollut v\u00e4h\u00e4n haluton koska inhoan kaavanpiirt\u00e4mist\u00e4. No, menin siit\u00e4 mist\u00e4 aita on matalin ja k\u00e4ytin pohjana aiemmin ompelemani jakun kaavaa. Poistin kaulukset kokonaan, jaoin takakappaleen kapeampiin osiin, muotoilin etukappaleelle etulistan sek\u00e4 kavensin ja kaarsin hihaa. Isoin homma oli muotoilla takaosan k\u00f6rttilaskokset niin ett\u00e4 ne asettuisivat kauniisti turnyyrin p\u00e4\u00e4lle. Mit\u00e4\u00e4n hirve\u00e4n yksityiskohtaisia ohjeita en t\u00e4h\u00e4n kaavanmuokkaukseen nyt tehnyt koska loppujen lopuksi muutin kaavaa niin v\u00e4h\u00e4n (ja koska unohdin ottaa kaavoista valokuvat)<\/strong><\/span>. Kannattaa k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 jo olemassa olevaa hyv\u00e4ksi havaittua kaavaa ja fiksata sit\u00e4 omaan makuun sopivaksi. Jakun on hyv\u00e4 olla istuvuudeltaan aika napakka. Miehustassa on aika monta ty\u00f6vaihetta joten aloitetaan sovituskappaleella, eli protolla eli musliinilla.<\/p>\n

Muut osat:<\/strong><\/span>
\nTurnyyripuku – luonnokset<\/a>
\nTurnyyripuku – kankaat<\/a>
\nTurnyyripuku – vaihe 1, turnyyrivanne<\/a>
\nTurnyyripuku – vaihe 2, r\u00f6yhel\u00f6alushame<\/a>
\nTurnyyripuku – vaihe 3, hame<\/a><\/p>\n

IN ENGLISH<\/strong><\/span>
\nThere’s been a bit of a break but now I’m back with the bustle gown project. I’ve been a bit reluctant about the bodice pattern because I hate pattern drafting. Well, I took the short road around and used pattern of a jacket I made some years ago. I removed collar, devided backside into more narrow slices, reformed frontside and made sleeve more narrow and curved. Biggest job was to create curved pleats on the back to make it fit nicely ontop of the bustle. There’s not particularly presice instructions on the patten changes because I didn’t really change it that much (and because I forgot to take photos of the patterns)<\/strong><\/span>. You can use what ever jacket pattern you have found handy and fix it as you please. Bodice has quite many phases so let’s start with fitting piece, aka muslin.<\/p>\n

Other phases:<\/strong><\/span>
\nBustle gown – sketches<\/a>
\nBustle gown – fabrics<\/a>
\nBustle gown – phase 1, bustle hoops<\/a>
\nBustle gown – phase 2, ruffled petticoat<\/a>
\nBustle gown – phase 3, skirt<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nT\u00e4m\u00e4n jakun<\/a> kaavaa muuntuu puvun jakuksi. \/
\nPattern for this jacket<\/a> is going to transform into bustle gown bodice.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nJaa keskitakakappale kahteen osaan. Lis\u00e4\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lt\u00e4 alasp\u00e4in laskosvara
\nkappaleiden reunaan. Yhden laskosvaran leveys on sama kuin valmiin laskoksen
\nsyvyys. Lis\u00e4\u00e4 laskosvarat my\u00f6s takasivukappaleen reunaan ja keskimm\u00e4isen
\ntakakappaleen ulkoreunaan. Kun laskosvarat on lis\u00e4tty, avarretaan jakun helmaa
\nkellottamalla. T\u00e4hdet osoittavat kellotusten kohdat. Kaava leikataan auki mutta
\navataan vain alareunasta piirakkamaisesti. X:ll\u00e4 merkityt ommellaan yhteen,
\nO:lla merkityt ommellaan yhteen.\u00a0 \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Divide center back piece in two pieces. Add pleat allowance down from waist
\nto the edge of the back piece, to both edges of the middle piece and on
\nthe edge of side piece. Width of the allowance is same than the depth of
\nthe pleat. When pleat allowances are added, open the bottom of
\nthe back patterns on star-marked spots. This is for adding more room for the bustle.
\nAdditions are slice-shaped. X’s will be connected and O’s will be connected.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nOmmeltu takakappale nurjalta. Nuolet osoittavat
\nlaskosten pohjat jotka k\u00e4\u00e4ntyv\u00e4t keskelle. \/
\nBack pieces sewn together. Arrows mark the pleat
\nbottoms that turn to the center.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nEtukappaleet ommeltuna, paitsi keski-etu joka viel\u00e4 puuttuu. \/
\nFront pieces, except center front which is still missing.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nValmis sovituskappale nukella. Nuolet osoittavat laskokset
\njotka eiv\u00e4t litte\u00e4ksi silitettyin\u00e4 t\u00e4ss\u00e4 juuri erotu. \/
\nMy muslin ready. Arrows point to the pleats that have
\nbeen ironed flat and don’t show much.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nSovituskappale edest\u00e4. Ja pitsir\u00f6yhel\u00f6-to-be. \/
\nMuslin front. And lace ruffle-to-be.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

T\u00e4ss\u00e4 on ollut pient\u00e4 luovaa taukoa havaittavissa mutta nyt voitais ottaa taas k\u00e4sittelyyn turnyyripuku. Olen p\u00e4hk\u00e4illyt miehustan kaavan kanssa ja ollut v\u00e4h\u00e4n haluton koska inhoan kaavanpiirt\u00e4mist\u00e4. No, menin siit\u00e4 mist\u00e4 aita on matalin ja k\u00e4ytin pohjana aiemmin ompelemani jakun kaavaa. Poistin kaulukset kokonaan, jaoin takakappaleen kapeampiin osiin, muotoilin etukappaleelle etulistan sek\u00e4 kavensin ja kaarsin hihaa…. <\/p>\n

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