{"id":2325,"date":"2011-03-19T01:19:22","date_gmt":"2011-03-18T22:19:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=2325"},"modified":"2015-09-11T15:50:51","modified_gmt":"2015-09-11T12:50:51","slug":"parsima-kirkkosilkin-huoltaminen-mending-antique-silk-scarf","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=2325","title":{"rendered":"Parsima – kirkkosilkki \/ Mending – antique silk scarf"},"content":{"rendered":"

Mulle k\u00e4vi taannoin pieni haaveri<\/a>. Siisp\u00e4 jouduin taas parsintahommiin. Seuraavana Parsima-sarjassa siis kirkkosilkin huoltotoimenpiteet. Kirkkosilkiksi tai kirkkohuiviksi kutsutaan yleens\u00e4 mustaa silkkist\u00e4 huivia jota rouvat k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t sunnuntaisin kirkkoon menness\u00e4. Huivit saattoivat olla my\u00f6s moniv\u00e4risi\u00e4 mutta useimmin t\u00f6rm\u00e4\u00e4 nimenomaan mustiin. Oman huivini ik\u00e4\u00e4 en osaa arvailla mutta yst\u00e4v\u00e4 totesi ett\u00e4 se saattaisi olla jopa 20-luvulta. Hankkiessani sen kirpputorilta kolmella eurolla oli kunto erinomainen vaan eip\u00e4 ole en\u00e4\u00e4. Silkki on materiaalina jo itsess\u00e4\u00e4n kohtalaisen haurasta mutta vanha silkki erityisesti. T\u00e4m\u00e4 ei tietenk\u00e4\u00e4n tullut ajoissa mieleeni koska huivi on varsin paksua kangasta. Silkkihuivissa erityisen arka on hulpioreuna joka repe\u00e4\u00e4 helposti. Oman huivini repe\u00e4m\u00e4t aiheuttivat hulpion reunasta repeytyneet hapsut jotka irrotessaan tekiv\u00e4t reunaan pienet lovet. Isompi repe\u00e4m\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4si niist\u00e4 sitten alkamaan. Mutta k\u00e4yd\u00e4\u00e4np\u00e4 paikkuuseen.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

I had a little accident<\/a> recently. That’s why I needed to do some mending again. So our next episode of Mending-series is silk scarf. In the old times women (atleast here in Finland)<\/strong><\/span> used to wear silk scarfs for church on sunday. They were literarly called church silks or church scarfs. Sometimes scarfs might have been multicoloured but mostly they were black. I don’t know how old my scarf is but friend said it could even be from 20’s. When I got it from flea market with three euro’s it was in great condition, but not anymore. Silk is rather weak as it is, but old silk especially. I didn’t remember this because the scarf is pretty thick fabric. Especially delicate is the selvages of the silk, it tears very easily. Tears on my scarf were caused by fringes that came of and left little cuts on the edge. Those helped the large tear to occure more easily. But let’s get to the mending.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nTukikankaita tms ei voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 koska huivin molemmat puolet n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4.<\/span>
\n Jos kangas on kovin haurasta voi nurjalle puolelle (mattaisempi puoli) harsia kiinni<\/span>
\n koko huivin kokoisen palan mustaa silkkiorganzaa. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 tapauksessa tyydyin vain<\/span>
\n paikkaamaan repe\u00e4m\u00e4n pienin etupistoin.\u00a0 Jos mahdollista k\u00e4yt\u00e4 silkkilankaa,<\/span>
\n muukin kiilt\u00e4v\u00e4pintainen lanka k\u00e4y h\u00e4t\u00e4tapauksessa. Langan p\u00e4\u00e4h\u00e4n ei tehd\u00e4<\/span>
\n solmua vaan ainoastaan pujotellaan kankaan sis\u00e4\u00e4n. \/<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

You can’t use any interfacings to support the fabric since both sides are visible.
\nIf material is very fragile you can use scarf size piece of black silk organza to
\nsupport the whole scarf on the reverse side. In this case I only mended the tears
\nwith tiny running stitches. If possible, use silk thread. Other silky finish threads
\nwill do for emergency repairs. No knots at the end of the thread, just pull it
\ninside the fabric.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nKatkoviiva osoittaa pistorivien muodostumisen ja suunnan. Kannattaa aloittaa
\nrepe\u00e4m\u00e4n tyvest\u00e4. Jatketaan nuolensuuntaan,\u00a0 t\u00e4rke\u00e4\u00e4 on jatkaa pistoja jonkin matkaa
\nrepe\u00e4m\u00e4n yli kummallakin puolella. Ommelta kiristet\u00e4\u00e4n jotta revenneet reunat
\nkohtaavat mahdollisimman tiiviisti. Tarkista valoa vasten sopiva tiukkuus.
\nPid\u00e4 huoli ett\u00e4 kangas ei silti joudu kuprulle. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Red line shows forming of the stitch rows and direction. It’s best to start at the base
\nof the tear. Continue to follow the arrow direction, it is important to continue
\nstitching a bit further from the tear on both sides. Tighten the stitches so that<\/strong>
\nedges will match snuggly. Check towards the light if there’s any gaps. Make sure
\nstill that the fabric stays flat and stiches aren’t pulling it.<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nValmis paikkaus. Oikealla puolella pistot n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t hyvin v\u00e4h\u00e4n ja
\nhukkuvat kiilt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4n pintaan. Tarvittaessa pistoja voi viel\u00e4 vahvistaa parilla
\nrepe\u00e4m\u00e4n suuntaisella pistorivill\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Finished mending. On the right side you don’t really see the stitches properly.
\nThey camouflage pretty well on the shining surface of the silk. If needed
\nyou can also reinfoce the torn area with couple rows of stitches on
\nopposite direction, along the tear. <\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nNurja puoli. Pistot n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t enemm\u00e4n koska huivin nurjapuoli on mattapintaisempi.
\nK\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 paikkaus kuitenkin erottuu aika v\u00e4h\u00e4n sill\u00e4 pistot ovat todella pieni\u00e4.
\nPaikattu kohta kannattaa viel\u00e4 lopuksi varovasti silitt\u00e4\u00e4 tasaiseksi. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Reverse side. Stitches show more because the reverse side is not so shiny.
\nIn use it is still pretty invisible since the stitches are tiny. When stitching is done,
\ncarefully iron out flat. <\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nTarkista hulpioreuna muiden pikkurepe\u00e4mien varalta ja korjaa ne samaan tapaan.<\/span>
\n Vasen nuoli osoittaa pikkurepe\u00e4m\u00e4n, kaksi nuolta oikealla irronneiden hapsujen kohdat<\/span>
\n joissa pikkiriikkiset repe\u00e4m\u00e4t. Koko hulpioreunan voi vahvistaa pienin etupistoin<\/span>
\n vastaavien vahinkojen v\u00e4ltt\u00e4miseksi.\u00a0 Vahvistuspistot kannattaa pujottaa<\/span>
\n my\u00f6s hapsujen solmujen l\u00e4pi. \/<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Check the whole selvage for small tears and missing fringes (if any, not all scarfs
\nhave fringes of course).\u00a0 Fix them the same way. Left arrow shows small tear.
\nTwo arrows on right shows places for missing fringes with tiny tears. It’s also a
\ngood idea to reinforce the whole selvage with small running stitches to prevent
\nfuture damages. Stitch also through the fringe knots to keep them tightly
\non their spots. <\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nKun repe\u00e4m\u00e4t on korjattu, selvit\u00e4 takkuiset hapsut. Jos hapsut ovat aitoa silkkilankaa
\nniiden pit\u00e4isi selvitty\u00e4 suhteellisen helposti. Ole varovainen ettet revi hapsuja irti
\ntai katko niit\u00e4. Reunasta irronneet hapsut luultavasti ovat sotkeutuneet muiden
\nhapsujen sekaan. Poista ne. Jos irronneet hapsut ovat vain yksitt\u00e4isi\u00e4 sielt\u00e4 t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4,
\nei niit\u00e4\u00a0kannata ommella takaisin koska paikattu kohta on aina heikompi kuin ehj\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

When all tears are fixed, untangle messy fringes. If they are made of real
\nsilk thread, they should untangle pretty easily. Be careful not to pull any more fringes
\noff and not to snap threads shorter. Fringes that came off are probably mixed with
\nthe mess. Remove them. If there is only couple of fringes missing here and there, there
\nis no point in sewing them back, repaired spot is always weaker than intact area. <\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

S\u00e4ilyt\u00e4 antiikki-silkkihuivia aina rullattuna, ei koskaan taitettuna. Silkki on erikoinen
\nmateriaali joka sy\u00f6 itse itse\u00e4\u00e4n. Taitteiden kohdat kuluvat aikaa my\u00f6den ja niihin voi
\ntulla reiki\u00e4. Sen sijaan aseta silkkihuivi happovapaalle paperille ja rullaa se pahviputken
\nymp\u00e4rille. Silkkitekstiilit s\u00e4ilytet\u00e4\u00e4n aina valolta suojattuna sill\u00e4 aurinko haalistaa v\u00e4rin
\nnopeasti ja haurastuttaa kankaan. \/ <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Store your antique silk scarf always rolled, never folded. Silk is unusual material
\nwhich eats itself. Folds will start wearing and develope holes more easily. Place
\nsilk scarf on acid free paper and roll it around cardboard tube. Silk textiles should
\nalways be stored protected<\/strong><\/em> from light<\/strong><\/em>. Sunlight fades the colours fast and
\ndeteriorates the fabric. <\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mulle k\u00e4vi taannoin pieni haaveri. Siisp\u00e4 jouduin taas parsintahommiin. Seuraavana Parsima-sarjassa siis kirkkosilkin huoltotoimenpiteet. Kirkkosilkiksi tai kirkkohuiviksi kutsutaan yleens\u00e4 mustaa silkkist\u00e4 huivia jota rouvat k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t sunnuntaisin kirkkoon menness\u00e4. Huivit saattoivat olla my\u00f6s moniv\u00e4risi\u00e4 mutta useimmin t\u00f6rm\u00e4\u00e4 nimenomaan mustiin. Oman huivini ik\u00e4\u00e4 en osaa arvailla mutta yst\u00e4v\u00e4 totesi ett\u00e4 se saattaisi olla jopa 20-luvulta. Hankkiessani sen… <\/p>\n

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