{"id":2153,"date":"2011-02-23T22:48:51","date_gmt":"2011-02-23T19:48:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=2153"},"modified":"2011-02-23T23:20:31","modified_gmt":"2011-02-23T20:20:31","slug":"turnyyripuku-vaihe-3-helma-bustle-gown-phase-3-skirt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=2153","title":{"rendered":"Turnyyripuku &#8211; vaihe 3, helma \/ Bustle gown &#8211; phase 3, skirt"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>T\u00e4m\u00e4n puvun tekeminen on ollut sin\u00e4ns\u00e4 hassua koska se tapahtuu ik\u00e4\u00e4nkuin nurinkurisessa j\u00e4rjestyksess\u00e4. Normaalisti pukua ommeltaessa tehd\u00e4\u00e4n ensin p\u00e4\u00e4lliosat miehustakankaasta ja sitten sis\u00e4\u00e4n tuleva vuori. Nyt on ommeltu &#8220;sis\u00e4lt\u00e4 ulosp\u00e4in&#8221; eli alimmasta kerroksesta l\u00e4htien. Valmiina on ensimm\u00e4inen miehustakankainen osa, alimmainen helma. Savunsinisen t\u00e4yspitk\u00e4n helman p\u00e4\u00e4lle tulee seuraavaksi vedostettu p\u00e4\u00e4llyshame joka ei ylet\u00e4 maahan asti. Helma, kuten alushamekin on rakenteeltaan varsin yksinkertainen. Koristeena mustaa hapsunauhaa ja rypytetty\u00e4 mustaa t\u00e4ysvinoon leikattua satiinikaitaletta. Litte\u00e4mm\u00e4n ja sile\u00e4mm\u00e4n lantio-osan saamiseksi rypytykset on nyt korvattu sek\u00e4 ommelluilla laskoksilla ett\u00e4 pehmeill\u00e4 laskoksilla. Laskokset asettuvat yleens\u00e4 litte\u00e4mmin kuin rypytys. Ja menn\u00e4\u00e4np\u00e4 sitten itse hamoseen.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>IN ENGLISH<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\nMaking this dress has been a bit funny because it is going in reverse order. Usually when making a dress you start with your fashion fabric and then the lining. Now I had to start from the inside. Now I was able to finish the full length smokyblue skirt. There will be another, draped layer for the skirt. This first layer is pretty simple like the petticoat. Only decorations are black fringe and ruffled biascut satin ribbon. To make the waist more flat and sleek I replaced ruffling with pleats, both sewn and soft. Pleats usually settle more flat than ruffles. Let&#8217;s have a look at the skirt.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt1.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2157 aligncenter\" title=\"skirt1\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt1.jpg?resize=450%2C543\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"543\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt1.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt1.jpg?resize=248%2C300 248w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Mittailua ja suunnittelua &#8211; kaava l\u00e4hes identtinen alushameen kanssa,<br \/>\nmutta pidempi ja vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4 laskokset. Takakappaleeseen lis\u00e4sin<br \/>\nv\u00e4h\u00e4n viistotusta helmaan. \/<br \/>\n<em>Measurements and desing &#8211; pattern almost identical to petticoat,<br \/>\nbut longer and pleats on the waist. I added about 5 cm on the hem sides.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt2.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2158 aligncenter\" title=\"skirt2\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt2.jpg?resize=450%2C385\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"385\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt2.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt2.jpg?resize=300%2C256 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><br \/>\nOmmellut muotolaskokset etukappaleella. \/<br \/>\n<em>Intakes on the waist at front.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt3.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2159 aligncenter\" title=\"skirt3\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt3.jpg?resize=468%2C450\" alt=\"\" width=\"468\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt3.jpg?w=468 468w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt3.jpg?resize=300%2C288 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 468px) 100vw, 468px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Pehme\u00e4t laskokset takakappaleella. \/<br \/>\n<em>Soft pleats at the back.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt4.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2160 aligncenter\" title=\"skirt4\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt4.jpg?resize=450%2C619\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"619\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt4.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt4.jpg?resize=218%2C300 218w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Valmis vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitale, vasemmalla oikea puoli, oikealla nurja puoli. \/<br \/>\n<em>Waistband, right side on the left, reverse side on the right.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt5.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2161 aligncenter\" title=\"skirt5\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt5.jpg?resize=450%2C676\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"676\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt5.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt5.jpg?resize=199%2C300 199w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Hapsunauhan ompelin ohjaimen (metallih\u00e4kkyr\u00e4 \u00e4\u00e4rioikealla) avulla. \/<br \/>\n<em>I sewed the fringe with the sewing aid (metal thing on the right).<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt6.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2162 aligncenter\" title=\"skirt6\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt6.jpg?resize=450%2C683\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"683\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt6.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt6.jpg?resize=197%2C300 197w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><br \/>\nKoristenauha leikataan t\u00e4ysvinoon, tarvitset sit\u00e4 v\u00e4hint\u00e4\u00e4n<br \/>\n3 x valmiin koristenauhan pituus. Ompele yhten\u00e4iseksi<br \/>\npitk\u00e4ksi nauhaksi, taita molemmista reunoista n. sentti ja silit\u00e4 taitteet.<br \/>\nOmpele kiristyslanka molempien taitteiden sis\u00e4\u00e4n,<br \/>\nvaro ompelemasta kiristyslangan p\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4. Kiristyslankana<br \/>\nvoi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 kalalankaa tms. vahvaa lankaa. \/<br \/>\n<em>Use biascut fabric strips for decoration. You will need atleast<br \/>\n3 times as long strip as the ready decoration will be.<br \/>\nYou can cut it in shorter pieces and combine into one long strip.<br \/>\nFold 1 cm on both long sides and iron flat. Sew ruffling<br \/>\nthread inside both folds. Be careful not to sew over the thread.<br \/>\nUse thick cotton or plyester thread.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt7.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2163 aligncenter\" title=\"skirt7\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt7.jpg?resize=573%2C450\" alt=\"\" width=\"573\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt7.jpg?w=573 573w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt7.jpg?resize=300%2C235 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 573px) 100vw, 573px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Neulaa koristenauha paikoilleen samalla rypytyslangoista kirist\u00e4en.<br \/>\nOmpele molemmista reunoista, varo ompelemasta kiristyslangan p\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4.<br \/>\nPoista lopuksi kiristyslangat. \/<em><br \/>\nPin decoration at it&#8217;s place and at the same time ruffle it by pulling the ruffling threads.<br \/>\nSew both sides, be carefull not to sew over the ruffling thread.<br \/>\nFinally remove threads.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt8.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2164 aligncenter\" title=\"skirt8\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt8.jpg?resize=450%2C680\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"680\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt8.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt8.jpg?resize=198%2C300 198w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong>Valmiit koristeet l\u00e4hikuvassa \/<br \/>\n<em>Finished details.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt9.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2165 aligncenter\" title=\"skirt9\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt9.jpg?resize=450%2C718\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"718\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt9.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt9.jpg?resize=188%2C300 188w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt10.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2166\" title=\"skirt10\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt10.jpg?resize=450%2C706\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"706\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt10.jpg?w=450 450w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/02\/skirt10.jpg?resize=191%2C300 191w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><span style=\"color: #993366;\"><strong><br \/>\nValmis hame neulattu mallinukelle. Helmassa saisi olla v\u00e4h\u00e4n enemm\u00e4n<br \/>\nviistotusta alhaalla sill\u00e4 nyt hame on aika suora p\u00f6tkyl\u00e4\/<br \/>\n<em>Finished skirt pinned on the mannequin. Skirt could go<br \/>\nwider at the hem, now it is pretty straight .<br \/>\n<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>T\u00e4m\u00e4n puvun tekeminen on ollut sin\u00e4ns\u00e4 hassua koska se tapahtuu ik\u00e4\u00e4nkuin nurinkurisessa j\u00e4rjestyksess\u00e4. Normaalisti pukua ommeltaessa tehd\u00e4\u00e4n ensin p\u00e4\u00e4lliosat miehustakankaasta ja sitten sis\u00e4\u00e4n tuleva vuori. Nyt on ommeltu &#8220;sis\u00e4lt\u00e4 ulosp\u00e4in&#8221; eli alimmasta kerroksesta l\u00e4htien. Valmiina on ensimm\u00e4inen miehustakankainen osa, alimmainen helma. Savunsinisen t\u00e4yspitk\u00e4n helman p\u00e4\u00e4lle tulee seuraavaksi vedostettu p\u00e4\u00e4llyshame joka ei ylet\u00e4 maahan asti. Helma,&#8230; <\/p>\n<div class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=2153\">Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,12,7,150],"tags":[129,126],"class_list":["post-2153","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-evilompelee","category-munelama","category-projektit","category-pukuhistoria","tag-costumes","tag-sewing-other-crafts","has-post-thumbnail","fallback-thumbnail"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-yJ","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2153","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2153"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2153\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2169,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2153\/revisions\/2169"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2153"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2153"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2153"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}