{"id":1998,"date":"2011-02-07T19:43:29","date_gmt":"2011-02-07T16:43:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=1998"},"modified":"2011-02-07T21:01:36","modified_gmt":"2011-02-07T18:01:36","slug":"turnyyripuku-vaihe-1-bustle-gown-phase-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=1998","title":{"rendered":"Turnyyripuku – vaihe 1 \/ Bustle Gown – phase 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kattokaa ny, n\u00e4in siin\u00e4 k\u00e4y kun t\u00e4\u00e4 eukko innostuu jostain. Viikonlopun surffailun, luonnostelun ja p\u00e4hk\u00e4ilyn seurauksena tapahtui t\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n seuraavaa:<\/p>\n

Suunnittelu ja kaavan piirto – v\u00e4h\u00e4n reilu 1 tunti
\nLeikkaus ja alkuvalmistelut – v\u00e4h\u00e4n vajaa 1 tunti
\nOmpelu ja viimeistely – n. 3 tuntia<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Ja lopputuloksena on valmis turnyyri noin viidess\u00e4 tunnissa.\u00a0 Nopeamminkin olisi valmistunut jos olisin k\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt valmista vinonauhaa. Tein senkin itse ja sen silitt\u00e4miseen meni jonkin verran aikaa. Pient\u00e4 hiomista malli viel\u00e4 kaipaa mutta ensimm\u00e4iseksi, ilman ohjeita ja valmiita kaavoja ommelluksi turnyyriksi voin olla varsin ylpe\u00e4. Kiitos hyv\u00e4n kolmiulotteisen hahmotuskyvyn. Se muistuttaa hyvin pitk\u00e4lti esikuvaansa<\/a>. Huomioitavaa on ett\u00e4 turnyyri on tehty omille mitoilleni sopivaksi joten mallinukelle se on ihan liian suuri. Materiaalit: vanha paksu lakanakangas, synteettinen valaanluu, silitett\u00e4v\u00e4 tukikangas, sirkkarenkaat, puuvillany\u00f6ri.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

IN ENGLISH<\/strong><\/span>
\nHave a look at what happens when I get all excited. After the weekend full of internet surfing, sketching and planning, following took place:<\/p>\n

Designing and pattern drawing – a bit more than an hour
\nCutting and preliminaries – less than an hour
\nSewing and finishing touch – about 3 hours<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

And we got boned bustle in about five hours. It would have been finished even quicker if I would have used readymade bias cut tape. I made that myself and ironing it took quite some time. Pattern requires a bit retouching, but for first bustle, done without any instructions or ready-made patterns I can be proud of it. Thanks for my good ability for three-dimentional conceptualizing. My bustle looks pretty much like the one I chose for my original model<\/a>. Notice that it is made for my measurements and it’s way too large for the mannequin. Materials: old thick bed sheet, synthetic whale bone, iron-on interfacing\/stabilizer, eyelets, cotton ribbon. And sorry about my bad english terminology, it’s something I have always found a bit tricky to cope with.
\n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nSuunnitelma ja miniatyyrikokeilu paperista \/
\nDesign and miniature bustle made of paper<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nKaava \/ Pattern<\/em>
\nNy\u00f6ritysl\u00e4pp\u00e4\u00e4n lis\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4 viel\u00e4 yl\u00e4reunaan ja otettava v\u00e4h\u00e4n pois alareunasta \/
\nLacing still requires adding on top and taking off on the bottom<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nLeikatut osat \/ Cut from thick cotton<\/em>
\nTakaosa taitteelta, ny\u00f6rityksen reunaan 4 cm saumanvaraa,
\nalareunan 2 cm saumanvara k\u00e4\u00e4ntyy luukujaksi.
\nSivukappaleen kaareva reuna – ei saumanvaraa, huolitellaan vinonauhalla.
\nLeikkaa my\u00f6s vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitale ja vinonauhat (tai k\u00e4yt\u00e4 valmista vinonauhaa)\/
\nBackside cut on folded fabric, lacing with 4 cm seam allowance,
\n2 cm seam allowance on the bottom creates place for bone.
\nCurved edge on sidepiece doesn’t require seam allowance –
\nwill be trimmed with bias tape. Cut also waistband and bias tapes
\n(or use readymade bias tape)<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Luukujat ommeltuna, vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n muotolaskokset neulattu,
\np\u00e4\u00e4rm\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6s ny\u00f6ritysl\u00e4p\u00e4n reunat \/
\nBone tapes done, tucks on waist pinned,
\nhem also edges of the lacing part before sewing sidepiece<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vinonauhalla huoliteltu sivul\u00e4pp\u00e4 ommellaan luukujien p\u00e4iden p\u00e4\u00e4lle \/
\nSidepiece, trimmed with bias tape sewed on top of the bone tape ends<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nSivul\u00e4p\u00e4n alla ny\u00f6ritysl\u00e4pp\u00e4, sirkkarenkaiden paikat merkitty \/
\nUnder sidepiece is part for lacing, eyelet places marked<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nEnnen toisen sivul\u00e4p\u00e4n ompelua pujota vanteet
\n(voit k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 paksua valaanluuta tai metallivannetta) \/
\nBefore sewing the other sidepiece put bones on their places
\n(you can use either thick whale bone or metallic bones)<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ompele vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kuja niin ettei ny\u00f6ritysl\u00e4pp\u00e4 j\u00e4\u00e4 sen alle vaan k\u00e4\u00e4ntyy vapaasti \/
\nSew waistband so that lacing part doesn’t get caught under, it must move freely under boning<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Se ois sitte niinku solkea vaille valmis \/
\nI think it’s done<\/strong><\/span>, except for a buckle<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kattokaa ny, n\u00e4in siin\u00e4 k\u00e4y kun t\u00e4\u00e4 eukko innostuu jostain. Viikonlopun surffailun, luonnostelun ja p\u00e4hk\u00e4ilyn seurauksena tapahtui t\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n seuraavaa: Suunnittelu ja kaavan piirto – v\u00e4h\u00e4n reilu 1 tunti Leikkaus ja alkuvalmistelut – v\u00e4h\u00e4n vajaa 1 tunti Ompelu ja viimeistely – n. 3 tuntia Ja lopputuloksena on valmis turnyyri noin viidess\u00e4 tunnissa.\u00a0 Nopeamminkin olisi valmistunut jos… <\/p>\n

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