{"id":1986,"date":"2011-02-06T00:35:22","date_gmt":"2011-02-05T21:35:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=1986"},"modified":"2011-02-06T00:39:23","modified_gmt":"2011-02-05T21:39:23","slug":"uusi-projekti-new-project","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=1986","title":{"rendered":"Uusi projekti \/ New project"},"content":{"rendered":"

Erin\u00e4isten ty\u00f6huone\/ty\u00f6kaveri-liit\u00e4nn\u00e4isten uudelleenj\u00e4rjestelyjen vuoksi olen tuntenut itseni erityisen inspiroituneeksi<\/strong><\/span> viimeisen kuukauden ajan. Kahden vuoden yksin ty\u00f6skentelyn j\u00e4lkeen on siis helpottavaa huomata ett\u00e4 ty\u00f6kaverin saaminen on vain pirist\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4. Toivottavasti sama inspiraatio jatkuu viel\u00e4 pitk\u00e4\u00e4n sill\u00e4 keskener\u00e4isi\u00e4 ja alkamattomia projekteja on jonoksi asti (kuten aiemminkin on k\u00e4ynyt ilmi)<\/strong><\/span>. Olen vihdoin p\u00e4\u00e4tt\u00e4nyt k\u00e4yd\u00e4 k\u00e4siksi hommaan jota olen suunnitellut varmasti viimeiset viisi vuotta.<\/p>\n

1900-luvun vuosikymmenten lis\u00e4ksi ihailen monia historiallisia tyylej\u00e4. Eniten niist\u00e4 kiehtoo 1800-luvun loppupuoli turnyyripukuineen. T\u00e4h\u00e4n samaan liittyy my\u00f6s kiinnostukseni steampunkiin, neoviktoriaaniseen gootti-tyyliin ja lolitoihin. Kaikkia tyylej\u00e4 yhdist\u00e4\u00e4 samanlainen estetiikka: r\u00f6yhel\u00f6it\u00e4, rimpsuja, pitsej\u00e4, rypytyksi\u00e4 ja laskoksia, ylellisi\u00e4 kankaita ja t\u00e4ytel\u00e4isi\u00e4 v\u00e4rej\u00e4. Haaveenani on ollut valmistaa 1800-luvun lopun tyylinen turnyyripuku<\/strong><\/span>, enemm\u00e4n tai v\u00e4hemm\u00e4n alkuper\u00e4isen mallin mukaan. Asiaa tutkiessani olen tullut p\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6kseen ett\u00e4 puku ei tule olemaan t\u00e4ydellinen repro sen aikakauden muodista. Puku on oma tulkintani turnyyripuvusta, modernein materiaalein ja ty\u00f6tavoin. Budjettini on sen verran pieni ett\u00e4 en pysty hankkimaan aitoja silkkej\u00e4 tai villakankaita. Aikataulukin on hieman tiukka jotta pystyisin perehtym\u00e4\u00e4n kunnolla alkuper\u00e4isiin ty\u00f6menetelmiin ja rakenteisiin, saatika harrastamaan hirve\u00e4sti k\u00e4sinompelua.<\/p>\n

Turnyyripuku vaatii alusasulta tietty\u00e4 muotoa joten puvun tekeminen on aloitettava alusasusta. P\u00e4\u00e4asiassa naisten puku koostui lyhyest\u00e4 aluspaidasta ja pitk\u00e4lahkeisista alushousuista (tai vaihtoehtoisesti noin polvipituisesta aluspaidasta)<\/strong><\/span>, korsetista, turnyyrivannehameesta (bustle<\/em>)<\/strong><\/span> ja puuvillaisesta rimpsualushameesta (petticoat<\/em>)<\/strong><\/span> (saattoivat olla my\u00f6s yhdistettyn\u00e4 yhdeksi alushameeksi)<\/strong><\/span>, kaksiosaisesta p\u00e4\u00e4llyshameesta ja miehustasta. Koskapa olen historiallisten pukujen valmistuksessa t\u00e4ysi noviisi ajattelin hieman oikoa ja j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 aluspaidan, alushousut ja korsetin t\u00e4ll\u00e4 er\u00e4\u00e4 pois ja siirty\u00e4 suoraan turnyyrivannehameeseen ja rimpsutettuun alushameeseen. Yrit\u00e4n pit\u00e4\u00e4 teid\u00e4t ajantasalla ty\u00f6n edistymisest\u00e4. Kiinnostaako arvon lukijoita historialliset tyylit?<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

IN ENGLISH<\/strong><\/span>
\nDue to work room and colleague related rearrangements I have felt myself especially inspirational<\/strong><\/span> for the past month. After working pretty much alone for two years it is good to notice that getting a colleague to work with is refreshing. Hopefully this inspirational period is longlasting, there is loads of unfinished or unstarted projects (as you have read before)<\/strong><\/span>. I have finally decided to start a project that I have been planning for atleast five years.<\/p>\n

In addition to the styles of different decades from 10’s to 50’s, I also admire many historical styles. The end of 1800 with bustle dresses I like the most. This also connects with my interest towards steampunk, neovictorian gothic style and lolitas. There are similarities in all of these style genres: ruffles, pleats, laces, luxurious fabrics and luscious colours. My dream has been to create the end of the 1900th century dress with bustle<\/strong><\/span>, more or less according to the original style. I have done some studying and I have decided that it won’t be perfect reproduction from the fashion of that era. Dress will be my interpretation of the bustle gown, with modern materials and methods. My budget is a bit smallish so I can’t buy silks or expensive wools. I also have a bit tight schedule, so I have to leave original methods and structures. Not to mention a lot of hand sewing.<\/p>\n

Bustle dress requires certain form of underwear so I have to start with undergarments. At that time dresses mainly included chemise and drawes (or just long chemise)<\/strong><\/span>, corset, bustle with boning and petticoat (they might have been also combined into one petticoat)<\/strong><\/span>, two piece skirt and separate bodice. I am complete novice so I’m going to cut some corners and leave chemise, drawers and corset and start with bustle and ruffled petticoat. I try to keep you up to date on the progression. Are you my dear readers interested in historical styles?<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Inspiraatiota \/ Inspirations
\n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nTurnyyri vanteilla \/ Bustle<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nRimpsualushame vanteilla \/ Bustle & petticoat<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Pics 1<\/a>, 2<\/a>, 3<\/a>, 4<\/a> & 5
\n(link to last pic gone missing, sorry)<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Erin\u00e4isten ty\u00f6huone\/ty\u00f6kaveri-liit\u00e4nn\u00e4isten uudelleenj\u00e4rjestelyjen vuoksi olen tuntenut itseni erityisen inspiroituneeksi viimeisen kuukauden ajan. Kahden vuoden yksin ty\u00f6skentelyn j\u00e4lkeen on siis helpottavaa huomata ett\u00e4 ty\u00f6kaverin saaminen on vain pirist\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4. Toivottavasti sama inspiraatio jatkuu viel\u00e4 pitk\u00e4\u00e4n sill\u00e4 keskener\u00e4isi\u00e4 ja alkamattomia projekteja on jonoksi asti (kuten aiemminkin on k\u00e4ynyt ilmi). Olen vihdoin p\u00e4\u00e4tt\u00e4nyt k\u00e4yd\u00e4 k\u00e4siksi hommaan jota olen suunnitellut… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,103,7,150],"tags":[151,129,112,104,126],"class_list":["post-1986","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-evilompelee","category-evil-suunnittelee","category-projektit","category-pukuhistoria","tag-costume-history","tag-costumes","tag-inspirational","tag-projects","tag-sewing-other-crafts","has-post-thumbnail","fallback-thumbnail"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-w2","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1986","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1986"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1986\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1996,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1986\/revisions\/1996"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1986"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1986"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1986"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}