{"id":19806,"date":"2025-12-19T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-12-19T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=19806"},"modified":"2025-12-18T22:27:58","modified_gmt":"2025-12-18T20:27:58","slug":"19-12-25-kapselivaatekaappi-alushameen-vaihtoviikko-capsule-wardrobe-petticoat-change","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=19806","title":{"rendered":"19\/12\/25 Kapselivaatekaappi: Alushameen vaihtoviikko \/ Capsule wardrobe: Petticoat change"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Viile\u00e4mpien ilmojen viimein saavuttaessa t\u00e4m\u00e4n meid\u00e4n pikkuisen kyl\u00e4mme, jouduin vihdoin katsomaan totuutta silmiin. Tai no siis, katsoin niihin ammottaviin reikiin, jotka tuijottivat takaisin alushameestani. Olen ommellut t\u00e4m\u00e4n alushameen<\/a> aivan blogini alkuaikoina. Tarkkaanottaen vuonna 2009. Alushame on siis palvellut paremmin kuin hyvin viimeiset 16 vuotta. Kuminauhavy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n ansiosta alushame on sopinut aina ja olen k\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt sit\u00e4 paljon monenlaisten hameiden ja mekkojen alla. Se on sopinut kaikkeen kansallispuvuista vintagemekkoihin. Ja olenpa k\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt sit\u00e4 joskus kotioloissa ihan sellaisenaankin<\/a>, ilman p\u00e4\u00e4llyshametta. Hame on nyt kuitenkin niin huonossa kunnossa ett\u00e4 on aika tehd\u00e4 uusi. T\u00e4m\u00e4 vanha menee kierr\u00e4tykseen. Pitsit ja puuvillarimpsun puran irti ja k\u00e4yt\u00e4n my\u00f6hemmin muissa ompeluprojekteissa. Kuluneesta pellavasta teen ehk\u00e4 jotain r\u00e4ttej\u00e4 tai k\u00e4yt\u00e4n niit\u00e4 vedonpoistajien t\u00e4ytteen\u00e4, tai mit\u00e4 nyt sitten keksinkin. Muunlaiseen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n se on jo liian haurasta. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Kuminauhavy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6 ei ole historiallisesti autenttinen, mutta sill\u00e4 on omat ly\u00f6m\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4t puolensa. Etenkin meill\u00e4 joilla vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n ymp\u00e4ryys vaihtelee p\u00e4iv\u00e4st\u00e4 toiseen ja jopa eri vuorokauden aikoina esim vatsavaivojen vuoksi, kuminauhavy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6 antaa tarvittavaa mukavuutta. Kuminauhavy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6 on my\u00f6s k\u00e4tev\u00e4 silloin kun vaatteen on tarkoitus kest\u00e4\u00e4 k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 vuosia tai jopa vuosikymmeni\u00e4, mitat saattavat vuosien aikana muuttua. Siksi teinkin t\u00e4h\u00e4n hamoseen napinl\u00e4pikuminauhalla s\u00e4\u00e4dett\u00e4v\u00e4n vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kuminauhan. Muitakin vaihtoehtoja vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6\u00f6n toki on, mutta t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa haluan menn\u00e4 helpoimman kautta. Olen suunnitellut s\u00e4\u00e4dett\u00e4v\u00e4ll\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4 varustetun hameen ompelua, kerron siit\u00e4 ehk\u00e4 joskus toiste lis\u00e4\u00e4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pid\u00e4n ehk\u00e4 eniten valkoisista alushameista, mutta koska minulla sattui olemaan ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4isen\u00e4 harmaata pellavaa, t\u00e4m\u00e4 uusi versio valmistui nyt siit\u00e4. Lopuksi ompelin helmaan eri v\u00e4risen pitsireunuksen antamaan v\u00e4h\u00e4n s\u00e4h\u00e4kkyytt\u00e4 muuten tyls\u00e4\u00e4n harmaaseen. Mielest\u00e4ni t\u00e4st\u00e4 tuli aika s\u00f6\u00f6tti. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jos olet joskus ihmetellyt miksi joissakin historiallisissa hameissa on helmassa vaakasuuntaisia laskoksia, niill\u00e4 on ihan tarkoitus. Tytt\u00f6jen ja nuorten naisten hameissa laskoksista sai hameisiin kasvunvaraa pituuteen, mutta ne antavat my\u00f6s helmalle rakennetta ja volyymi\u00e4. Pitk\u00e4 ja muhkea helma on painava ja laskeutuu raskaasti, mutta sit\u00e4 saa kevyesti kohotettua ja tuettua vaakalaskoksilla. Niinp\u00e4 ompelin t\u00e4h\u00e4n hameeseen muutamia hiuslaskoksia helmaa j\u00e4ykist\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n. Laskokset voivat olla leve\u00e4mpi\u00e4kin, mutta t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa leikkuuvirheen johdosta varaa ei ollut hiuslaskosta suurempiin.<\/p>\n\n\n

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When cooler weather finally arrived in our little village, I finally had to face the truth. Or rather, I had to face the gaping holes staring back at me from my petticoat. I sewed this petticoat in the early days of my blog. In 2009, to be precise. So the petticoat has served me well for the past 16 years. Thanks to its elastic waistband, the petticoat always fits, and I have worn it a lot under many different skirts and dresses. It has gone with everything from national costumes to vintage dresses. And I have even worn it at home on its own, without a skirt over it. However, the skirt is now in such poor condition that it is time to make a new one. This old one will be recycled. I will unpick the lace and cotton trim and use them later in other sewing projects. I might make some rags out of the worn linen or use it as stuffing for draft stoppers, or whatever else I can think of. It is already too fragile for any other use.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An elastic waistband is not historically authentic, but it has it’s advantages. Especially for those of us whose waist size varies from day to day and even at different times of the day, due to stomach problems etc, an elastic waistband provides the necessary comfort. Elastic waistband is also practical if the garment is supposed to last years, it not even decades in use. Waist measurement is might change over the years. For these reasons I made waist band with button hole elastic. There are, of course, other options for adjusting the waist, but this time I want to go for the easiest option. I have plans on making a skirt with an adjustable waist, which I may tell you more about another time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I think I like white petticoats the most, but since I happened to have some extra gray linen lyi’ing around, I made this new version out of it. I finished the petticoat by sewing a different colored lace trim onto the hem to add something extra to the otherwise boring gray.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you have ever wondered why some historical or vintage skirts have horizontal pleats in the hem, there is a reason for this. In skirts for girls and young women, the pleats allowed the skirts to grow in length as the wearer grew. They also give the hem structure and volume. A long, full hem is heavy and falls heavily, but it can be lifted and supported with horizontal pleats. So I sewed a few pintucks into this skirt to support the hem. The pleats could be wider, but this time, due to a cutting error, there was no room for anything larger than these pintucks.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Pellavan yksi ongelma on ett\u00e4 se kuluu melko nopeaan tahtiin. Vanhan alushameen pellavaiset osat ovat puhki hiutuneet kun taas puuvillainen rimpsu on viel\u00e4 oikein hyv\u00e4kuntoinen. No pakko my\u00f6nt\u00e4\u00e4 ett\u00e4 pellavaosat olivat jo aiemmasti k\u00e4ytetty\u00e4 vanhaa pellavalakanaa. Siksi kuluminen oli ehk\u00e4 nopeampaa, kun taas puuvillarimpsu oli k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4t\u00f6nt\u00e4 ikkunaverhoa. \/
One problem with linen is that it wears off quite fast. Linen parts of the old petticoat are completely worn and disintegrated, but the cotton fringe is still quite good. Well, I have to admit that the linen is second hand bedlinen and cotton was brand new cotton curtain. For that reason linen probably wore off faster because it was already worn to some extent. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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En edes tajua miten n\u00e4in p\u00e4\u00e4si k\u00e4ym\u00e4\u00e4n. En huomannut t\u00e4t\u00e4 reik\u00e4\u00e4 ennenkuin oli jo my\u00f6h\u00e4ist\u00e4. H\u00e4mm\u00e4stytt\u00e4\u00e4 ett\u00e4 reik\u00e4 on revennyt jopa sauman yli enk\u00e4 ole huomannut asiaa. Pitk\u00e4 puuvillarimpsukerros on varmaan piilottanut ongelman n\u00e4kyvist\u00e4. \/
I can’t even understand how this happened. I didn’t notice the hole before it was too late. It’s amazing that the hole has spread over the seam without me noticing it. Long cotton fringe must have hidden the problem from me.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauha on napinl\u00e4pikuminauhaa, joten se on helposti s\u00e4\u00e4dett\u00e4viss\u00e4. \/
Waistband is buttonhole elastic, so it’s very easily adjusted. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Hiuslaskokset napakoittavat helmaa. Jos pituutta olisi v\u00e4h\u00e4n reilummin, olisin voinut ommella pari my\u00f6s tuohon helmar\u00f6yhel\u00f6n yl\u00e4puolelle. \/
Pintucks make the hem sturdier. If there would have been more length, I could have made couple also above the hem ruffle. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Aika s\u00f6p\u00f6h\u00e4n t\u00e4st\u00e4 tuli, tosin olisi voinut olla viel\u00e4 hiukan pidempi, mutta n\u00e4ill\u00e4 menn\u00e4\u00e4n. \/
It is rather cute, allthough it could have been just a tad longer, but it will do fine. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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\"\"<\/figure><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Viile\u00e4mpien ilmojen viimein saavuttaessa t\u00e4m\u00e4n meid\u00e4n pikkuisen kyl\u00e4mme, jouduin vihdoin katsomaan totuutta silmiin. Tai no siis, katsoin niihin ammottaviin reikiin, jotka tuijottivat takaisin alushameestani. Olen ommellut t\u00e4m\u00e4n alushameen aivan blogini alkuaikoina. Tarkkaanottaen vuonna 2009. Alushame on siis palvellut paremmin kuin hyvin viimeiset 16 vuotta. Kuminauhavy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n ansiosta alushame on sopinut aina ja olen k\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt sit\u00e4 paljon… <\/p>\n

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