{"id":19244,"date":"2025-02-22T14:27:33","date_gmt":"2025-02-22T12:27:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=19244"},"modified":"2025-02-22T14:36:05","modified_gmt":"2025-02-22T12:36:05","slug":"vintage-aarre-kestos-liivit-vintage-treasure-kestos-bra","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=19244","title":{"rendered":"Vintage-aarre: Kestos-liivit \/ Vintage treasure: Kestos-bra"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Vuonna 1925, puolalais-syntyinen suunnittelija Rosamund Lilian Klin perusti Lontooseen Kestos Corset Companyn<\/a> ja alkoi suunnitella uudenlaisia alusvaatteita. Yrityksen ikonisimmaksi malliksi muodostuivat 30-luvulla ns. Kestos-liivit<\/a>, kevyet kietaisutyyppiset rintaliivit. Malli oli hyvin yksinkertainen ja se sopi erityisen hyvin 30-luvun vartalonmy\u00f6t\u00e4isten pukujen alle. Liivit oli helppo valmistaa my\u00f6s itse. T\u00e4m\u00e4n tyyppisten liivien tarkoituksena ei ollut varsinaisesti antaa rinnalle tukea, ainoastaan muotoilla kevyesti, joten se sopi parhaiten pienirintaisille. Se oli kuitenkin ensimm\u00e4inen rintaliivimalli jossa rinnoille oli erilliset kupit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Joitakin vuosia sitten ostin jostakin n\u00e4m\u00e4 kestos-liivien tyyppiset rintaliivit, ihan kuriositeettina omaan vintage-kokoelmaani. N\u00e4m\u00e4 eiv\u00e4t ole siis aidot Kestoksen valmistamat liivit, vaan jonkun kotiompelijan itse huolellisesti ompelemat “kopiot”. Tyypillisimm\u00e4ss\u00e4 Kestos-liiviss\u00e4 kupit menev\u00e4t keskelt\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4in, niiss\u00e4 on rinnan alla napit joilla vartalon kiert\u00e4v\u00e4t nauhat kiinnitet\u00e4\u00e4n rinnan alle. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 minun l\u00f6yt\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4ni versiossa kupit jatkuvat silkkinauhalla edest\u00e4 sivuille ja nappi tulee k\u00e4sivarren alle. Nauhan takaosa on kuminauhaa ja olkaimet ovat silkkinauhaa. Kuppien alareuna on vahvistettu kapealla puuvillanauhalla ja kuppien siipim\u00e4inen p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4in asettuva keskiosa on kaksinkertaista kangasta. Kupit kiinnittyv\u00e4t toisiinsa ainoastaan yhdell\u00e4 pienell\u00e4 ompeleella. Kestos-tyyliset rintaliivit<\/a> ovat olleet suosiossa per\u00e4ti parinkymmenen vuoden ajan, on siis vaikea sanoa onko n\u00e4m\u00e4 liivit ommeltu jo 30-luvulla vai my\u00f6hemmin 50-luvulla. Pienenpienist\u00e4 pistoista p\u00e4\u00e4tellen, liivit on kuitenkin ommeltu polkukoneella jonka tyypillinen pistonpituus on hyvin lyhyt, 1 mm tai alle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Liivien materiaali on eritt\u00e4in tiivist\u00e4, ohutta ja l\u00e4pikuultavaa, kahisevaa kangasta. En ole varma, mutta arvelen ett\u00e4 kangas saattaisi olla laskuvarjosilkki\u00e4. En ole koskaan n\u00e4hnyt toisen maailmansodan aikaista laskuvarjoa liven\u00e4, joten en ihan varmasti tied\u00e4 millaista se kangas on, mutta mielikuvissani se olisi juuri t\u00e4llaista. Toisen maailmansodan aikaan kun kankaista oli pulaa, etenkin Britanniassa ja Amerikassa naiset tekiv\u00e4t k\u00e4ytetyist\u00e4 laskuvarjoista ja kangaskartoista alusvaatteita<\/a> ja jopa h\u00e4\u00e4pukuja. Tarinoiden mukaan kangas oli hiukan kahisevaa, sill\u00e4 se oli kudottu tietenkin ilmatiiviiksi. Ilmeisesti kaikki laskuvarjot eiv\u00e4t kuitenkaan olleet aitoa silkki\u00e4. My\u00f6hemmin sodan jatkuessa osa valmistettiin my\u00f6s nylonista. On siis t\u00e4ysin mahdollista ett\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n kangas ei ole silkki\u00e4 ensink\u00e4\u00e4n, vaan nylonia. Eik\u00e4 se ehk\u00e4 ole edes tehty laskuvarjosta, vaikka toki mieluusti haluan niin ajatella. Olisihan se nyt huikean hienoa.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

In 1925, polish designer Rosamund Lilian Klin established Kestos Corset Company<\/a> to London and started designing new kind of underpinnings. The most iconic design turned out to be in the 30’s the Kestos bra<\/a>. They were very light structured, wrap-type bra. Very simple design which suited exceptionally well under the figure hugging 1930’s fashion garments. This type of bra was also easy to make yourself. This type of lightweight bra didn’t give any support to the bust, it was just lightly shaping the bust. So this style was best suited to small bust. However, it was the first bra ever to have separate cups.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some years ago I bought these kestos-styled bra, as a curiosity to my vintage collection. These are not authentic Kestos-made bra, but probably “copy” of the design, made by home-sewist. Most typical Kestos bra cups are overlapping in the middle and there is buttons under the bust, which attach the ribbons under the bust. However this pair the cups are continuing as silk ribbons and buttons are under arm. Backside of the ribbons are elastic bands and shoulder straps are silk ribbons. Bottom edge of the cups is stabilised with cotton bias tape. Wing-like overlapping middle section of the cups is supported by double layer of the material. Cups attach to each other only with very small stitch on the top of the middle section. Kestos style bra<\/a> was popular whole two decades, so it’s difficult to know if these were made in the 30’s or later in the 50’s. Based on the tiny stitching, these were made by treadle machine. Typical length of the treadle sewing machine stitch is very short, 1 mm or less.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Material of these bra is very tightly woven, thin and sheer, a bit rustly fabric. I’m not sure, but I think it might be parachute silk. I have never seen WWII parachute live, so I can’t be sure what kind of material it is, but in my mind this might be similar. During second World War there was shortage of fabrics and especially in Britain and America, women made underwear and even wedding gowns from parachutes and fabric maps<\/a>. According to some stories the material was a bit rustly, because it was woven air tight for the purpose. Apparently not all parachutes were silk though. Later when the war went on, parachutes were also made of nylon. It’s totally possible that this bra is not silk at all, but nylon. And maybe it’s not even made of parachute, but I do like to think that way. That would be really cool.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Kestos-tyyliset rintaliivit \/ Kestos style bra<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Kuppien keskiosa menee p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4in. T\u00e4m\u00e4 on mielest\u00e4ni liivien hienoin kohta. Kupin yl\u00e4osa jatkuu keskelle siipim\u00e4isen\u00e4 osana ja muodostaa loivan kulman liivien alareunaan. \/
Cups are overlapping in the middle. This is, in my opinion the loveliest detail of this bra. The top of the cup continues wing-like in the middle and creates an angle on the bottom edge of the bra. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Nauhat ovat silkki\u00e4 ja kuminauhaa. \/ Straps are made of silk ribbon and elastic ribbon. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Liivien nurja puoli \/ Reverse side of the bra<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Keskiosan kaksinkertainen kangas ja alareunan puuvillanauha. \/
Double layer of the middle area and cotton bias tape. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Vartalon kiert\u00e4v\u00e4t nauhat yhdistyv\u00e4t napein k\u00e4sivarren alla. \/
Ribbons, which go around the body are joined under arm with buttons.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Kupit yhdistyv\u00e4t edess\u00e4 ainoastaan t\u00e4m\u00e4n yhden pienen ompeleen avulla. \/
Cups are connected in the front only with this small tack. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vuonna 1925, puolalais-syntyinen suunnittelija Rosamund Lilian Klin perusti Lontooseen Kestos Corset Companyn ja alkoi suunnitella uudenlaisia alusvaatteita. Yrityksen ikonisimmaksi malliksi muodostuivat 30-luvulla ns. Kestos-liivit, kevyet kietaisutyyppiset rintaliivit. Malli oli hyvin yksinkertainen ja se sopi erityisen hyvin 30-luvun vartalonmy\u00f6t\u00e4isten pukujen alle. Liivit oli helppo valmistaa my\u00f6s itse. T\u00e4m\u00e4n tyyppisten liivien tarkoituksena ei ollut varsinaisesti antaa rinnalle… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":19245,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Vintage-aarre: 30-luvun rintaliivit \/\nVintage treasure: 1930's bra","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[26,150,35],"tags":[151,64,235],"class_list":{"0":"post-19244","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-kierratys-ja-kirppis","8":"category-pukuhistoria","9":"category-vintage","10":"tag-costume-history","11":"tag-thrift-finds","12":"tag-vintage","14":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/kestosstylebra1.jpg?fit=800%2C540","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-50o","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19244","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=19244"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19244\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19255,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19244\/revisions\/19255"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/19245"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=19244"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=19244"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=19244"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}