{"id":19137,"date":"2024-12-22T10:35:32","date_gmt":"2024-12-22T08:35:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=19137"},"modified":"2024-12-22T10:37:25","modified_gmt":"2024-12-22T08:37:25","slug":"22-12-24-vintage-aarre-30-luvun-mekko-vintage-treasure-1930s-dres","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=19137","title":{"rendered":"22\/12\/24 Vintage-aarre: 30-luvun mekko \/ Vintage treasure: 1930’s dres"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Siivoillessa l\u00f6ysin vintagemekon jonka olemassaolon olin ehtinyt jo unohtaa. En en\u00e4\u00e4 edes muista mist\u00e4 mekko on tullut minulle, mutta luultavasti olen saanut sen joltakin tutulta, joka on aikonut ehk\u00e4 heitt\u00e4\u00e4 sen roskiin. Kurkataan v\u00e4h\u00e4n l\u00e4hemp\u00e4\u00e4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mekko on ommeltu ruskeasta ohuesta, laskeutuvasta, mutta hiukan karkealta tuntuvasta kankaasta. Se ei ole puuvillaa eik\u00e4 silkki\u00e4. Puku voisi olla ohutta kes\u00e4laatuista villaa, p\u00e4\u00e4tellen siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 helmassa on paljon koinsy\u00f6milt\u00e4 vaikuttavia reiki\u00e4. Tai ehk\u00e4 se on jonkinlaista tekokuitua, mahdollisesti varhaista viskoosia tai vastaavaa. Valitettavasti mekko on melko pahoin tuhoutunut. Kainaloissa on j\u00e4lki\u00e4 hiest\u00e4 ja liasta. Ne ovat hapertuneet puhki. Tuhoel\u00e4inten tai huonon k\u00e4sittelyn aiheuttamia reiki\u00e4 on kauttaaltaan muuallakin vaatteessa. Arvelen ett\u00e4 mekkoa ei ole pesty viimeisen k\u00e4yt\u00f6n j\u00e4lkeen, milloin se sitten onkaan ollut ja kangas on alkanut sen johdosta haurastua likaisista kohdista. Likatahrat yleens\u00e4 my\u00f6s houkuttelevat tuhohy\u00f6nteisi\u00e4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On eritt\u00e4in harmillista, ett\u00e4 puku on mennyt kovin huonoon kuntoon sill\u00e4 sen leikkaus ja malli ovat erityisen vieh\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4t. Miehustassa on erillinen, vaaleammasta kankaasta ommeltu etuosa, jonka reunoilla on l\u00e4hes vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lle asti ulottuvat kaulukset. Koristeellisesti kirjottu etuosa on silkki\u00e4. Se on pahasti haurastunut ja repeilee helposti. Muistelisin ett\u00e4 t\u00e4ll\u00e4 aitapiston tyyppisell\u00e4, kaksi kangasta yhdist\u00e4v\u00e4ll\u00e4 pistolla on joku oma nimi, mutta en t\u00e4h\u00e4n h\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n l\u00f6yt\u00e4nyt siit\u00e4 tarkempaa tietoa. Englanniksi sen nimi on faggoting. T\u00e4m\u00e4 koristelutekniikka oli erityisen suosittu 20- ja 30-luvuilla, mutta on sit\u00e4 toki k\u00e4ytetty jo ennen sit\u00e4, sek\u00e4 my\u00f6skin j\u00e4lkeen. Nykyisin sit\u00e4 ei juurikaan n\u00e4e muualla kuin vanhoissa p\u00f6yt\u00e4liinoissa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Miehustan alaosassa ruskea kangas muodostaa erillisen kaarevan lipareen joka kiinnittyy vaaleaan edustaan. Sen koristeena on kangasp\u00e4\u00e4llysteinen nappi, joka on todellisuudessa puinen kankaalla p\u00e4\u00e4llystetty kiekko. Helman vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lle on ommeltu edess\u00e4 ja takana aaltoilevat pystysaumat jotka avautuvat helmassa laskoksina. T\u00e4llaiset yksityiskohdat vaativat taitoa ja sormin\u00e4pp\u00e4ryytt\u00e4, sill\u00e4 kaarevien saumojen ompelu on konstikasta. Vintage-vaatteissa t\u00e4llaiset erikoiset saumat on yleens\u00e4 tehty p\u00e4\u00e4litikkaamalla, sill\u00e4 se on helpompaa kuin yritt\u00e4\u00e4 sovittaa kaksi eri suuntiin mutkaista reunaa yhteen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hihansuissa on 20- ja 30-luvulle tyypilliset pienet siivekkeet ja napit. Harvinaista kyll\u00e4, vaikka puku on n\u00e4in huonossa kunnossa, sen alkuper\u00e4inen vy\u00f6 on viel\u00e4 tallella. Usein irtonaiset vy\u00f6t ovat menneet ajan saatossa hukkaan ja muistona niist\u00e4 on vain sivusaumoissa pienet langalla ommellut vy\u00f6nlenkit. Takaosassa ei ole muotolaskoksia ja kahta helman aaltoilevaa saumaa lukuun ottamatta mit\u00e4\u00e4n erityist\u00e4. Joskus ihmisten mielest\u00e4 on hassua tai turhaa s\u00e4ilytt\u00e4\u00e4 n\u00e4in huonokuntoisia vaatteita, mutta jos t\u00e4m\u00e4 puku olisi aikanaan heitetty menem\u00e4\u00e4n, meill\u00e4 ei nyt olisi t\u00e4ss\u00e4 t\u00e4t\u00e4 postausta, eik\u00e4 mahdollisuutta tutkia aitoa l\u00e4hes 100 vuotta vanhaa vaatetta.<\/p>\n\n\n

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While cleaning, I found a vintage dress that I had already forgotten existed. I can’t even remember where it came from, but I think I probably got it from someone I knew who was going to throw it in the trash. Let’s take a closer look.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The dress is sewn from a brown thin, flowing, but slightly coarse-feeling fabric. It is neither cotton nor silk. The dress could be thin summer-quality wool, judging by the many holes in the hem that appear to be moth holes. Or perhaps it is some kind of man-made fibre, possibly early viscose or similar. Unfortunately, the dress is pretty badly ruined. There are traces of sweat and dirt in the armpits. Fabric has pretty much vanished into thin air. There are holes throughout the rest of the garment caused by pests, insects or mishandling. My guess is that the dress has not been washed since it was last worn, whenever that may have been, and the fabric has begun to brittle in the soiled areas as a result. Stains also tend to attract insects.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It’s a great pity that the dress is in such bad condition, as the cut and design are particularly attractive. Dress has a separate front sewn in a lighter fabric, with collars that reach almost to the waist. The decoratively embroidered front is made of silk. It is very fragile and tears easily. Decoration used here is called faggoting. This decorating technique was particularly popular in the 1920s and 1930s, but it has certainly been used before and since. Nowadays, it is rarely seen anywhere except on old tablecloths.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the bottom of the bodice, the brown fabric forms a separate curved lip that attaches to the light-coloured front piece. It is decorated with a fabric-covered button, which is in fact a wooden fabric-covered disc. The waist of the skirt is sewn at the front and back with wavy vertical seams which open out at the hem as pleats. Such details require skill and dexterity, as the curved seams are tricky to sew. In vintage garments, such unusual seams are usually made by top-stitching, as it is easier than trying to match two edges that curve in different directions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The cuffs have the small wings and buttons, typical style of the 20s and 30s. It’s unusual that, even the dress is in such poor condition, the original belt is still intact. Often the loose belts have been lost over time and the only remnants are small belt loops of thread sewn into the side seams. There are no special features on the back, apart from the darts and the two wavy seams on the hem. Sometimes people think it’s silly or pointless to store clothes, which are in such poor condition, but if this dress had been thrown away, we wouldn’t have this post here, and we wouldn’t have the opportunity to examine a genuine, almost 100-year-old garment.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Puku on valitettavan ryppyinen, olen s\u00e4il\u00f6nyt sit\u00e4 n\u00e4emm\u00e4 muovipussissa. Vanhan, puhtaudeltaan ja kunnoltaan kyseenalaisen vaatteen silitt\u00e4minen ei tule kyseeseen. Jonkinlaisen k\u00e4sityksen t\u00e4st\u00e4 kuitenkin saa. 30-luvun pitk\u00e4 ja kapea siluetti erottuu. \/
Unfortunately dress is very wrinkly, apparently I have been storing it in a plastic bag. Ironing very old garment with questionable condition and cleanliness is out of the question. However you get the idea- 30’s long and slim silhouette is visible. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Miehustan design on minusta erityisen kaunis. \/
I think the bodice design is exceptionally beautiful. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Silkkiedustan aitapistoja muistuttava kirjailu. \/
Faggotig on the silk front.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
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Molemmissa kainaloissa on j\u00e4lki\u00e4 hiest\u00e4 ja haurastunut kangas. \/
Both armpits have residue of sweat and disintegrated fabric.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Hihansuun siivekkeet ja koristenappi. \/
Wings and button detail on the cuff.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Kangas on l\u00e4hes kauttaaltaan t\u00e4ynn\u00e4 reiki\u00e4. \/
Fabric is pretty much covered with little holes. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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\"\"
Helman hurmaavat aaltomaiset koristesaumat. \/
Charming wavy seams on the hem.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Siivoillessa l\u00f6ysin vintagemekon jonka olemassaolon olin ehtinyt jo unohtaa. En en\u00e4\u00e4 edes muista mist\u00e4 mekko on tullut minulle, mutta luultavasti olen saanut sen joltakin tutulta, joka on aikonut ehk\u00e4 heitt\u00e4\u00e4 sen roskiin. Kurkataan v\u00e4h\u00e4n l\u00e4hemp\u00e4\u00e4. Mekko on ommeltu ruskeasta ohuesta, laskeutuvasta, mutta hiukan karkealta tuntuvasta kankaasta. Se ei ole puuvillaa eik\u00e4 silkki\u00e4. Puku voisi olla… <\/p>\n

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