{"id":18767,"date":"2024-12-13T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-12-13T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=18767"},"modified":"2024-12-02T22:18:10","modified_gmt":"2024-12-02T20:18:10","slug":"13-12-24-vintagetyyli-ratsastushousut-vintage-style-jodhpurs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=18767","title":{"rendered":"13\/12\/24 Vintagetyyli: ratsastushousut \/ Vintage style: jodhpurs"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

*Toivepostaus*<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Joulukalenteriin toivottiin postausta kymmenisen vuotta sitten ompelemistani vintage-ratsastushousuista. Minulla oli varmaan joku eti\u00e4inen sill\u00e4 ihan v\u00e4h\u00e4n aikaa sitten mietin ett\u00e4 pit\u00e4isi ommella uudet, kun vain joskus ehtisi ja jaksaisi. Housut eiv\u00e4t en\u00e4\u00e4 mahdu, mutta tykk\u00e4\u00e4n niist\u00e4 tosi paljon ja haluaisin tehd\u00e4 uudet. Siin\u00e4 on kuitenkin sellainen pikku “mutta” ett\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4ni kangas on vintage twilli\u00e4 ja sit\u00e4 oli minulla vain n\u00e4iden yksien housujen verran. En siis pysty tekem\u00e4\u00e4n uusia ennen kuin l\u00f6yd\u00e4n vastaavaa elastaanitonta puuvillakangasta. Teht\u00e4v\u00e4 voi olla hankala.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Housujen kaavat piirsin itse. Mallina k\u00e4ytin kaverini aitoja 1930-luvun ratsastushousuja, jotka kuvasin ja mittasin tarkkaan. Harvoin on tullut tehty\u00e4 niin perusteellista ty\u00f6t\u00e4, silloin kun ompelen itselleni. Housujen perinteiset leikkaukset perustuvat puhtaasti k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6llisyyteen. Aikana kun kankaissa ei ollut elastaania tai muutakaan joustoa, leikkauksilla saatiin housuihin niit\u00e4 ominaisuuksia joita nyt voidaan saavuttaa elastaanin avulla. Kuvissa n\u00e4ette vertailukohteena originaalit vasemmalla ja ompelemani housut oikealla. N\u00e4et kuvat suurempana kun klikkaat kuvan p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 hiiren oikeaa n\u00e4pp\u00e4int\u00e4 ja valitset “Avaa kuva uudessa v\u00e4lilehdess\u00e4\/Open image in a new tab”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lantion ja reiden kohdalle lis\u00e4tty levennys on tosiaankin funktionaalinen osa, vaikka suorana seistess\u00e4 se vaikuttaakin v\u00e4h\u00e4n naurettavalle. Ratsastaessa, kun ollaan er\u00e4\u00e4nlaisessa istuvassa kyykkyasenossa, tuo levennys antaa housuihin riitt\u00e4v\u00e4sti v\u00e4ljyytt\u00e4. Levennyksen ansiosta jalka pystyy koukistumaan jalustimeen, ilman ett\u00e4 housut kirist\u00e4v\u00e4t ik\u00e4v\u00e4sti polvesta. S\u00e4\u00e4ren osuudella olevat pystysaumat ja napitukset auttavat housuja asettumaan jalanmy\u00f6t\u00e4isesti niin etteiv\u00e4t lahkeet lepata ratsastaessa, eiv\u00e4tk\u00e4 toisaalta my\u00f6sk\u00e4\u00e4n est\u00e4 pohkeessa verenkiertoa. Tarvittaessa napakasti istuvien lahkeiden p\u00e4\u00e4lle voi pukea s\u00e4\u00e4rystimet tai pitk\u00e4vartiset ratsastusaappaat. Alunperin nilkkapituiset ratsastushousut on kuitenkin tarkoitus pukea nilkkuri-mittaisten ratsastuskenkien kanssa.<\/p>\n\n\n

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I got post request for jodhpurs which I made about 10 years ago. I must have got some sort of premonition, because it was just couple days prior when I was thinking that I should make new pair, if I only had time. These jodhpurs don’t fit me anymore, but I really like them, and I’d like to get a new pair. There is only one little “but”. Fabric I used was vintage cotton twill, and I only had enough for one pair. So I can’t make another pair untill I find similar twill fabric, without elastane. It might be job impossible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I drafted the pattern myself. I used my friends authentic 1930’s jodhpurs as reference and measured and photographed them really carefully. I rarely can be bothered on such meticulous work, when sewing for myself. The cut of these trousers are purely practical. During the time when there was no elastane in the fabrics, cuts were the method of getting similar features than elastane gives us now. In the comparison photos you can see the original vintage pair on the left and jodhpurs made by me on the right. You can view photos larger if you click photo with the right mouse button and choose “View image in the new tab”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That silly extension on the hips and thigh-area really is the functional part, even though it seems a bit exaggerated when standing up. But when riding on a horse, in a sort of squatting sitting position, that extension gives enough ease for the garment. With extra width, there is enough room for the knee to bend and you are easily able to place your feet on the stirrup. Vertical cuts on the calf help to create fitting trouserleg, which doesn’t either get in the, nor cut the blood circulation on your feet. Also if needed, you can wear long riding boots or gaiters with these. Allthough jodhpurs have originally meant to be worn with short ankle-boots.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Housujen sis\u00e4etusauma ja haara. Edess\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4 on napituslenkki joka pit\u00e4\u00e4 puseron paikoillaan housuissa. Saumanvarat on huoliteltu vinokanttauksella ja haara on vahvistettu kulumiselta tikatulla kaksinkertaisella kankaalla. \/
Inside front and crotch. Buttoning loop on the waist keeps shirt inside the trousers. Seam allowances have been trimmed with bias tape and crotch has been supported from wear and tear with stitched second layer of fabric. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Lahkeensuun napitus. Originaalit housut ovat pient\u00e4 kokoa ja tehty melko lyhyelle henkil\u00f6lle. Itsell\u00e4ni taas on pitk\u00e4t s\u00e4\u00e4ret ja paksut pohkeet joten mittasuhteet ovat hiukan erilaiset. T\u00e4st\u00e4 johtuen napit ovat kauempana toisistaan. \/
Buttoning on the trouser legs. Original trousers were made for small and relatively short person. However I have rather long legs and thick calves, so proportions are different. Due to this reason, buttons are further apart than in original. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Housujen vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4 on napitus sivusaumoissa. Taskut on yhdistetty napitushalkioon. T\u00e4m\u00e4 oli hauska yksityiskohta tehd\u00e4, vaikka en yleens\u00e4 pid\u00e4 sivusaumataskuista, ne eiv\u00e4t oikein sovi omaan vartalomalliini ja tahtovat r\u00f6ps\u00f6tt\u00e4\u00e4 ik\u00e4v\u00e4sti auki. \/
Buttoning is on both sideseams of these jodhpurs. Pockets are combined with the buttoning. This was fun detail to make, even though I don’t usually like sideseam pockets. They just don’t fit my bodytype and tend to open and look a bit frumpy. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Takasauma on hiukan eri n\u00e4k\u00f6inen sill\u00e4 omiin housuihini lis\u00e4sin p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00f6varaa vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lle. T\u00e4m\u00e4 on tyypillinen tapa ommella miesten suorat housut, mutta jostain syyst\u00e4 ei juuri koskaan naisten. Itse j\u00e4t\u00e4n yleens\u00e4 housuihin (silloin harvoin kun niit\u00e4 itselleni teen) ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4ist\u00e4 saumanvaraa varmuuden vuoksi. Originaaleissa on pitk\u00e4t muotolaskokset takana. Itsell\u00e4ni ei ollut tarvetta niin isoille. \/
Backseam looks slightly different because I decided to leave some ease on my jodhpurs. This is typical way of making men’s trousers, but for some reason hardly ever for women. I usually always leave (in those rare cases when I make trousers for myself) extra seam allowances, just in case. Original trousers have long darts at the back. I didn’t need such big darts for mine.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Lahkeen napituslista nurjalta puolen. Originaaleissa napituslistan vahvike on leve\u00e4mpi kuin omissani. Kangasta oli hiukan naftisti, enk\u00e4 n\u00e4hnyt tarvetta leve\u00e4lle vahvistukselle. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t my\u00f6s lahkeiden sis\u00e4osan vahvikkeiden tikkaukset jotka imitoin alkuper\u00e4isist\u00e4. \/
Leg buttoning from reverse side. Originals have much wider buttoning facing than mine. I didn’t have much extra fabric and I didn’t see it necessary for wide facing. This also shows the stitching of the inner seam support. I imitated it from the originals.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Lahkeen nurja puoli pohkeen puolelta. \/
Trouser leg reverse side on the calf side. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Valmiit housut \/ Finished jodhpurs<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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\"\"<\/figure><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

*Toivepostaus* Joulukalenteriin toivottiin postausta kymmenisen vuotta sitten ompelemistani vintage-ratsastushousuista. Minulla oli varmaan joku eti\u00e4inen sill\u00e4 ihan v\u00e4h\u00e4n aikaa sitten mietin ett\u00e4 pit\u00e4isi ommella uudet, kun vain joskus ehtisi ja jaksaisi. Housut eiv\u00e4t en\u00e4\u00e4 mahdu, mutta tykk\u00e4\u00e4n niist\u00e4 tosi paljon ja haluaisin tehd\u00e4 uudet. Siin\u00e4 on kuitenkin sellainen pikku “mutta” ett\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4ni kangas on vintage twilli\u00e4… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":8264,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"13\/12\/24 Vintage style jodhpurs and how I made them","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,150,13,35],"tags":[360,151,126,235],"class_list":{"0":"post-18767","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-evilompelee","8":"category-pukuhistoria","9":"category-vaatehtimo","10":"category-vintage","11":"tag-christmas-calendar-2024","12":"tag-costume-history","13":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","14":"tag-vintage","16":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/safari2.jpg?fit=600%2C800","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-4SH","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18767","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=18767"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18767\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":18978,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18767\/revisions\/18978"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/8264"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=18767"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=18767"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=18767"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}