{"id":18760,"date":"2024-12-08T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-12-08T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=18760"},"modified":"2024-12-07T01:35:33","modified_gmt":"2024-12-06T23:35:33","slug":"8-12-24-vintage-aarre-1800-luvun-puku-vintage-treasure-1800s-gown","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=18760","title":{"rendered":"8\/12\/24 Vintage-aarre: 1800-luvun puku \/ Vintage treasure: 1800’s gown"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Vintage-aarteet ovat olleet blogissa tosi suosittuja postauksia ja siten itseoikeutettuja joulukalenteri-juttuja. T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa tutkitaan t\u00e4llaista v\u00e4h\u00e4n surullista 1800-luvun, mahdollisesti 1860-luvun pukua. Joku on alkanut muokkaamaan mekkoa tai ehk\u00e4 tarkoituksena on ollut k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 se matonkuteeksi. Miehusta ja helma on irrotettu toisistaan ja etuosan napituslista on leikattu pois. Puvun kangas on ohuenohutta villakangasta, l\u00e4hes voileen ohuista. Kankaassa on upea painokuviointi, joka j\u00e4ljittelee hiukan moiree-kangasta. T\u00e4llaisia kankaita ei en\u00e4\u00e4 nykyisin valmisteta. Ohuesta kankaasta p\u00e4\u00e4tellen, t\u00e4m\u00e4 puku on saattanut olla kes\u00e4puku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hameessa on tukeva puuvillasatiinivuori ja vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6 on vetopoimutettu. Helman reunassa on vihre\u00e4 villainen helmanauha. Miehustassa on niinik\u00e4\u00e4n puuvillavuori. Luisu hartialinja ja pudotettu hihasauma ovat tyypillist\u00e4 1860-luvun tyyli\u00e4. Hihasaumassa on pikkuruinen tere, samoin kuin muutama vuosi sitten esittelem\u00e4ss\u00e4ni kotitakissakin<\/a>. T\u00e4m\u00e4nkin puvun ostin samalta myyj\u00e4lt\u00e4 kuin kotitakin. Puvun hihat ovat vajaamittaiset ja niiss\u00e4 on kulmikkaan volangit, joiden saumat on my\u00f6s koristettu pikkuruisin terein. Miehustan vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4kin on j\u00e4ljell\u00e4 p\u00e4tki\u00e4 pikkutereist\u00e4, mutta osa niist\u00e4 on kadonnut kun helma on irrotettu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vanhoille puvuille tyypillisesti olkasaumat ovat sel\u00e4n puolella. P\u00e4\u00e4ntie on huoliteltu kapealla vinokantilla, joka on leikattu puvun kankaasta. Miehustan ja vinokantin v\u00e4liss\u00e4 on my\u00f6s tere. Takakappale on koottu kolmesta osasta, keskitaka-kappale on vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4 vain kolme sentti\u00e4 leve\u00e4. T\u00e4m\u00e4kin on vanhojen pukujen tyypillinen leikkaus. Takakappaleen vuori on kuitenkin yht\u00e4 yhten\u00e4ist\u00e4 kappaletta. Miehustassa ei oikeastaan ole sivusaumoja vaan etukappale jatkuu sel\u00e4n puolelle. Etukappaleilla on molemmin puolin yhdet ommellut muotolaskokset ja kahdet auki ratkotut muotolaskokset. Miehustaa on suurennettu lis\u00e4ksi etu- ja takakappaleet yhdist\u00e4vist\u00e4 saumoista. Vanhojen ompeleiden kohdat n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t vuorissa. N\u00e4kyvist\u00e4 saumojen muutoksista voidaan p\u00e4\u00e4tell\u00e4, ett\u00e4 pukua on saatettu suurentaa k\u00e4ytt\u00e4j\u00e4lleen. Kainaloissa kangasta on paikattu, se viittaa siihen ett\u00e4 pukua on k\u00e4ytetty paljon, koska kangas on hiutunut. Hihansuut ovat melko leve\u00e4t suhteessa miehustan kokoon. Se ehk\u00e4 viittaa siihen ett\u00e4 puvun alla on saatettu k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 ohutta puseroa, jonka hihat ovat n\u00e4kyneet vajaamittaisten hihojen alta, vaikka eiv\u00e4t n\u00e4m\u00e4 mitk\u00e4\u00e4n pagodahihat olekaan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Puvun kangas on todella hurmaava. Valkoisella pohjalla vaaleansinist\u00e4 moirekuviota ja kukkakimppuja. Kukkakuviot on jaettu raitoihin joiden v\u00e4liss\u00e4 on ruskean ja vaaleansinisen kirjavat moirekuvioraidat. Kuvioraitojen yhtym\u00e4kohdissa on pieni\u00e4 keltaisia neli\u00f6it\u00e4. T\u00e4llaisia monien eri kuvioiden yhdistelm\u00e4printtej\u00e4 on nykyisin todella vaikea l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4 oikeastaan mist\u00e4\u00e4n muualta kuin ehk\u00e4 amerikkalaisilta kankaiden repro-valmistajilta. Haaveilen ett\u00e4 joskus voisin teett\u00e4\u00e4 kankaasta j\u00e4ljenn\u00f6ksen ja ommella kopion t\u00e4st\u00e4 puvusta. Villakankaisena se tuskin onnistuisi sill\u00e4 n\u00e4in ohutta villaa ei tahdo l\u00f6yty\u00e4, mutta kuvion voisi painatuttaa esim puuvillakankaaseen. <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Vintage treasures have been popular posts on the blog and so earned their rightful place in the Holiday calendar. This time I am showing in detail this a bit sad 1800’s, possibly 1860’s grown. Someone has started to alter the gown, or perhaps they were planning on repurposing it for something. Skirt and bodice have been separated and what ever was the method of closure has been cut off. Fabric is very fine wool, almost voile thickness. It has gorgeous print, which imitates moire. These kind of fabrics are no longer made. Due to very fine wool, this might have been summer gown.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Skirt has sturdy cotton lining and waist is cartridge pleated. Hem is trimmed with green wool hemming, Bodice also has cotton lining. Sleeves are dropped and shoulder line is more sloped than modern shoulder line, both typical 1860’s features. There is tiny piping on the sleeve seam, just like on the housecoat which I introduced<\/a> couple years back. I bought this gown from the same seller than the house coat. Sleeves area about elbow length and they got angular flounces, which have piped seams. There is traces of piping also on the bodice waist, but part of it has vanished when bodice and skirt were separated. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As typical to old gowns, shoulders seams are on the back. Neckline is trimmed with narrow bias tape, made from the gown fabric. Back is made of three pieces, centerback is only 3 cm wide on the waist, which is also typical to historical gowns. However the backside lining is one continuous piece. Bodice doesn’t have any side seams, front pieces continue towards the back. Front pieces have one dart each side and two darts, which have been been ripped open. Also the seams connecting front center and front side pieces have been let out. Old seam locations are still visible in the lining. So based on these changes, looks like gown was made larger for the user. There are patches in the armpits, which is suggesting that the gown was worn a lot, fabric has worn thin. Sleeves are quite wide, compared to the size of the bodice, which might suggest that perhaps longsleeved blouse was worn underneath. Long sleeves would have shown under the shorter gown sleeves. However, these are not real pagoda sleeves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fabric of the gown is really charming. Patterns are printed on ivory background, pale blue moire patterns and floral bouquets. Flowers are arranged in stripe sections which are divided by brown and blue moire patterns. Tiny yellow squares are on the edges of each moire stripe. These kind of printed fabrics, which combine several different patterns are very difficult to find these days. Mostly they can be found on American historical fabrics repro-manufacturers. I am dreaming of having the print pattern reproduced on fabric and making replica of the dress. But I doubt it will be wool, because fine wool like this is hard to find, but perhaps cotton version.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Puku on melko pient\u00e4 kokoa (n. 36-38) ja tehty itse\u00e4ni noin 10-15 cm lyhyemm\u00e4lle ihmiselle, eli noin 160 cm pitk\u00e4lle. Puin helman alle ny\u00f6rituetun alushameeni helmaa kohottamaan. \/
The dress is quite small size (about 36-38 Finnish size) and also made for person about 10-15 cm shorter than me, so perhaps 160cm tall person.<\/em><\/strong> I dressed it up on the dummy with corded petticoat to lift the skirt up.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Pudotettu hartialinja n\u00e4kyy t\u00e4ss\u00e4 kuvassa hyvin. \/
Dropped shoulder line shows well here. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Miehustan reunassa on kapea tere ja helman vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4 vetopoimutus. \/
Bodice waist has narrow piping and skirt waist has cartridge pleating. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Olkasauma on moderneissa vaatteissa sormeni osoittamassa kohdassa, eli hartioiden korkeimmalla kohdalla. Antiikkivaatteissa, kuten t\u00e4ss\u00e4kin puvussa, se on sel\u00e4n puolella. \/
On modern clothes, shoulder seam is where my finger is, on the highest point of shoulder. On antique clothing it is on the backside, like here. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Keskitaka-kaappale on alareunastaan vain noin 3 sentti\u00e4 leve\u00e4. T\u00e4st\u00e4 n\u00e4kee my\u00f6s selv\u00e4sti ett\u00e4 ennen ei ollut niin nuukaa vaikka kuvio ei ollut symmetrisesti. \/
Center back pieces is only about 3 cm on the bottom. You can also see that in the old times it wasn’t that important to place the pieces symmetrically on the printed fabric. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Kulmikas volanki ja kapea tere kiinnityssaumassa. \/
Angled flounce and tiny piping on the connecting seam. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Hihavolangin reuna on k\u00e4\u00e4nnetty vain kerran ja ommeltu k\u00e4sin. \/
Sleeve flounce edge has been turned only once and then hand sewn. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Kainaloon ommeltuja paikkoja ja hihan tere. \/
Mended areas in the armpit and sleeve piping.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Miehusta on vuoritettu kiinte\u00e4sti joten siin\u00e4 n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t vanhat ommelj\u00e4ljet, kuten n\u00e4m\u00e4 etukappaleen avatut muotolaskokset. \/
Bodice is flatlined, which means that old seamlines can be seen on the reverse side, like these darts in front, which have been opened.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Helman etuosassa on k\u00e4sin ompelemalla paikattu kohta. \/
Front of the hem has mended area. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Helmassa on kiinte\u00e4 vuori alareunassa joka tukee helmaa ja tekee siit\u00e4 kest\u00e4v\u00e4mm\u00e4n. Helma on huoliteltu villaisella helmanauhalla k\u00e4sin. Lis\u00e4ksi helma on vuoritettu puuvillasatiinilla. \/
Hem has supportive lining on the edge, which also gives it a bit body and makes it sturdier. Hem is also trimmed with wool skirt trimming by hand. There’s also cotton satin lining.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Helmanauha n\u00e4kyy v\u00e4h\u00e4n my\u00f6s oikealta puolelta. \/
Hem trimming shows little on the right side too.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Helman etuosa on revennyt ja siit\u00e4 on leikattu paloja, ne on ehk\u00e4 k\u00e4ytetty kainaloiden paikkaamiseen. \/
Front of the skirt is ripped and some pieces have been cut off. Perhaps they were used to mend the underarms.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Yhdess\u00e4 helman pystysaumassa on my\u00f6s tasku! \/
One of the vertical seams of the skirt also has a pocket!<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
Avattu sauma paljastaa ett\u00e4 kangas on kauttaaltaan my\u00f6s nuhjaantunut. Sauman sis\u00e4lt\u00e4 on tullut esiin puhdasta kangasta. \/
Opened seam reveals that fabric is all over a bit smudged. Area which has been hidden inside the seam is clean. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vintage-aarteet ovat olleet blogissa tosi suosittuja postauksia ja siten itseoikeutettuja joulukalenteri-juttuja. T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa tutkitaan t\u00e4llaista v\u00e4h\u00e4n surullista 1800-luvun, mahdollisesti 1860-luvun pukua. Joku on alkanut muokkaamaan mekkoa tai ehk\u00e4 tarkoituksena on ollut k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 se matonkuteeksi. Miehusta ja helma on irrotettu toisistaan ja etuosan napituslista on leikattu pois. Puvun kangas on ohuenohutta villakangasta, l\u00e4hes voileen ohuista. Kankaassa… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":18983,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"8\/12\/24 One of my antique garments in close inspection. ","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[150],"tags":[360,151],"class_list":{"0":"post-18760","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-pukuhistoria","8":"tag-christmas-calendar-2024","9":"tag-costume-history","11":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/1860swoolgown3.jpg?fit=800%2C1228","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-4SA","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18760","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=18760"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18760\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19004,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18760\/revisions\/19004"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/18983"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=18760"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=18760"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=18760"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}