{"id":18614,"date":"2024-10-06T11:48:16","date_gmt":"2024-10-06T08:48:16","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=18614"},"modified":"2024-10-07T09:11:34","modified_gmt":"2024-10-07T06:11:34","slug":"vaatteen-kasvivarjays-plant-dyeing-a-garment","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=18614","title":{"rendered":"Vaatteen kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4ys \/ Plant dyeing a garment"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

T\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n olisi ollut omavaraistelevien bloggareiden lokakuun yhteispostausp\u00e4iv\u00e4, mutta en t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa ole mukana. Jos olet kiinnostunut niist\u00e4, l\u00f6yd\u00e4t kaikki osallistuvat postaukset Tsajut-blogista<\/a>. Omavaraistelun sijaan kertoilen t\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4yshommista. Innostuin tuosta kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4yksest\u00e4 sen verran, ett\u00e4 ilmoittauduin mukaan yhden p\u00e4iv\u00e4n kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4yskurssille. P\u00e4iv\u00e4 oli aivan huikea kokemus. Rantam\u00f6kin pihapiiri t\u00e4yttyi porisevista v\u00e4ripadoista kun sienet, j\u00e4k\u00e4l\u00e4t ja kasvit keittyiv\u00e4t ensin v\u00e4riliemiksi ja sitten langat upotettiin sekaan v\u00e4rj\u00e4\u00e4ntym\u00e4\u00e4n. Aurinko paistoi koko p\u00e4iv\u00e4n pilvett\u00f6m\u00e4lt\u00e4 taivaalta ja v\u00e4hitellen kuivausnaru alkoi t\u00e4ytty\u00e4 eri v\u00e4risist\u00e4 lankavyyhdeist\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lankojen lis\u00e4ksi olin ottanut mukaan jo v\u00e4hint\u00e4\u00e4n 10 vuotta sitten kirppikselt\u00e4 ostamani villasekoiteneuleen jonka halusin v\u00e4rj\u00e4t\u00e4. Alunperin olin ajatellut ett\u00e4 v\u00e4rj\u00e4isin neuleen KoolAid-juomajauheilla, mutta en koskaan saanut sit\u00e4 aikaiseksi. Nyt p\u00e4\u00e4tin ett\u00e4 neule vihdoin v\u00e4rj\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n, tuli mit\u00e4 tuli. V\u00e4rikasviksi valikoitui pihak\u00e4enkaali, jolla saadaan vaaleansinisi\u00e4 ja turkooseja v\u00e4ris\u00e4vyj\u00e4. Aluksi n\u00e4ytti ett\u00e4 v\u00e4ri j\u00e4\u00e4 valjuksi. Vaikka liemi oli v\u00e4rik\u00e4s, itse neule n\u00e4ytti padassa harmaalta. Vasta aivan v\u00e4rj\u00e4yksen loppuvaiheessa sininen alkoi tulla esiin. Kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4yksess\u00e4 v\u00e4ris\u00e4vy on aina enemm\u00e4n tai v\u00e4hemm\u00e4n yll\u00e4tys, sill\u00e4 siihen vaikuttavat monet tekij\u00e4t aina veden happamuudesta v\u00e4rj\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4n materiaalin originaaliin v\u00e4riin ja k\u00e4ytett\u00e4v\u00e4n kasvin ik\u00e4\u00e4n. M\u00e4rk\u00e4n\u00e4 v\u00e4ri on tietysti intensiivisempi, mutta joskus v\u00e4ri muuttuu viel\u00e4 ilman vaikutuksesta tekstiilin kuivuessa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u00e4rj\u00e4ysp\u00e4iv\u00e4n p\u00e4\u00e4ttyess\u00e4 langat ja neule olivat viel\u00e4 hiukan kosteita, joten lopullisen v\u00e4rin p\u00e4\u00e4sin n\u00e4kem\u00e4\u00e4n vasta seuraavana p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4, kun neule oli t\u00e4ysin kuiva. Lopputulosta oli todella vaikea kuvata luonnollisena. Kamera ja valo-olosuhteet tahtovat v\u00e4\u00e4rist\u00e4\u00e4 aina v\u00e4ris\u00e4vyj\u00e4 jonkin verran, mutta erityisesti n\u00e4iden luonnonv\u00e4rien kohdalla ongelma tuntuu korostuvan. Neuleesta tuli hempe\u00e4n pehme\u00e4, harmaalla taitettu vaalea turkoosi. Olen s\u00e4vyyn oikein tyytyv\u00e4inen. V\u00e4rj\u00e4yksess\u00e4 ilmeni kuitenkin pari muuta seikkaa, jotka on hyv\u00e4 ottaa huomioon valmiita vaatteita v\u00e4rj\u00e4tess\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u00e4m\u00e4 neule on hyvin ohutta lankaa, joka tietysti oli yksi syy miksi alunperin olen siihen kirppiksell\u00e4 tarttunutkin. En ole kovin paksujen neuleiden yst\u00e4v\u00e4. Ne tuntuvat liian painavilta ja kankeilta p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4, viihdyn mieluummin ohuemmissa. Joko t\u00e4st\u00e4 syyst\u00e4, tai sitten pitk\u00e4st\u00e4 s\u00e4ilytyksest\u00e4 johtuen, neuleeseen ilmestyi v\u00e4rj\u00e4yksess\u00e4 muutama reik\u00e4. Saattaa olla ett\u00e4 neuleessa oli jo ennest\u00e4\u00e4n pari heikompaa kohtaa, jotka v\u00e4rj\u00e4ysk\u00e4sittely sai esiin, tai sitten neuleen h\u00e4mmennys padassa puukepill\u00e4 teki m\u00e4rk\u00e4\u00e4n neuleeseen reiki\u00e4. Vaikea sanoa kumpi on syyn\u00e4, eik\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4 nyt sin\u00e4ns\u00e4 ole ongelma, sill\u00e4 voin paikata rei\u00e4t, mutta eiv\u00e4t rei\u00e4t tietenk\u00e4\u00e4n mitenk\u00e4\u00e4n erityisen toivottavia ole. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Toinen juttu on se, ett\u00e4 en pessyt neuletta ennen v\u00e4rj\u00e4yst\u00e4. Se olisi kannattanut tehd\u00e4, sill\u00e4 v\u00e4rj\u00e4ys usein nostaa esiin vaatteen tahrat. K\u00e4ytetyn vaatteen ollessa kyseess\u00e4, tahrojen mahdollisuus on aina olemassa, vaikka niit\u00e4 ei vaatteessa n\u00e4kyisik\u00e4\u00e4n. Osa tahroista on n\u00e4kym\u00e4tt\u00f6mi\u00e4 ja tulee esiin vastakuumassa tai kun v\u00e4ri tarttuu niihin kohtiin eri tavoin kuin muualle. Vaikka vaate olisi huolellisesti pestykin, tahroista on saattanut j\u00e4\u00e4d\u00e4 vaatteeseen n\u00e4kym\u00e4t\u00f6nt\u00e4 likaa. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 tapauksessa puseron hihoihin ilmestyi v\u00e4rj\u00e4yksess\u00e4 ruskeat l\u00e4ik\u00e4t, jotka todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isesti eiv\u00e4t l\u00e4hde en\u00e4\u00e4 pesussa pois. Kyll\u00e4 min\u00e4 n\u00e4ihinkin jotakin keksin, mutta harmittaahan se tietysti, kun olisin voinut kuitenkin pest\u00e4 neuleen etuk\u00e4teen ja siten ehk\u00e4 v\u00e4ltty\u00e4 tahroilta. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Today would have been the scheduled October self-suficiency blogging day, but I’m not participating this time. If you are interested in those, you can find all participating blogs from Tsajut<\/a>. Instead I am blogging about natural dyes. I got so excited about the natural dyes, that I joined on one day natural dye workshop. It was fantastic experience. It was held by the lake on the yard of small cottage. Yard soon filled with bubbling pots with plants and fungi. First the plant material was boiled to make the dye bath and sieved. Then yarns were submerged into the dye bath for a long simmer. Sun was shining the whole day and bit by bit the rope started to fill yarns of all colours. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In addition to yarns, I also brought a cream coloured knit jumper, which I bought atleast 10 years ago from flea market. Originally my plan was to dye it with KoolAid-powders, but I never got around doing that. So now I decided it will be dyed, no matter what. Dye bath I chose for the jumper was purple oxalis. Purple oxalis usually gives light blue or greyish turquoise colours. At first it looked like the colour is going to be pale. Even though the dye bath looked colourfull, the jumper looked pale grey in the pot. Only at the very end of the dye process the blue started to reveal itself. The final colour is always a bit of a surprise when using natural dyes. There are so many variables which can change the colour significantly: the acidity of the liquid, the mordant, the age of the plant or fungi which is used, original colour of the yarn\/garment and so on. And of course the colour is more vibrant when wet, but sometimes even the air (oxidising) can change the colour a bit, when the yarns are drieing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the day ended, my yarns and jumper were still a bit damp, so I saw the final result the next day when everything had properly dried. It was really difficult to photograph the colour correctly. Camera and light conditions always distort the colours a but, but it seems to be extra hard with natural dyes. The jumper is soft light greyish turquoise. I am very happy with the result. However there was couple little snags, which I will address here and will make personal note for next time if and when dying finished garments. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This particular jumper is made of quite fine yarn, which of course was the reason why I bought it in the first place. I’m not a big fan of chunky knits. They feel too heavy and stiff on me, I prefer more delicate and light garments. Either for this reason, or the fact that I stored it such long time, couple little holes appeared on it during the dye process. It is possible that there already was couple weak spots on it, which were revealed when the garment got wet, or stirring it on the pot with a stick, made holes on it. Can’t really say which is the case, and it’s not really a huge problem, but in general holes are not desirable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The second issue is that I didn’t wash the garment before dyeing it. I should have done it, because dyeing usually lifts up old stains. When used garment is in question, there is always a chance of stains, even though there isn’t anything visible in it. Some of the stains are invisible and will be revealed when heated or when dye sticks to them differently than on the rest of the garment. Even though washing the garment properly, there still might be invisible residue of them left in the fibers. In this particular case, brown stains appeared on both sleeves. They probably don’t come off anymore in the wash. I will figure out how to fix the, but of course it’s a bit upsetting when I possibly could have avoided this just by washing the jumper before dyeing it. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Pihak\u00e4enkaali\/tarhak\u00e4enkaali on voimakkaasti levi\u00e4v\u00e4 ja siirtyy helposti paikasta toiseen. Havum\u00e4keen se tuli edellisest\u00e4 kodistamme siirrettyjen taimien mukana. \/
Purple oxalis is spreading easily and moves from one location to other almost unnoticed. To Pinehill it came with plants we moved from our previous home.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Neule ja muutamia lankavyyhtej\u00e4 menossa v\u00e4rikylpyyn. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy neuleen alkuper\u00e4inen v\u00e4ri ja se milt\u00e4 v\u00e4riliemi n\u00e4ytti alussa. Vaikka v\u00e4ri ensimm\u00e4isell\u00e4 kastamisella n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 punaiselle, v\u00e4ri kehittyy tunnin v\u00e4rj\u00e4ysprosessin aikana. \/
Jumper and some yarns going into the dye bath. Here you can see the original colour of the jumper and what the dye bath looked in the beginning. Even though colour looks red on first dip, it will delope during one hour long dye process. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Kaikki p\u00e4iv\u00e4n v\u00e4rj\u00e4ykset yhdess\u00e4. Auringonvalossa neule n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 l\u00e4hinn\u00e4 vaaleanharmaalle. \/
All dyed yarns together. In sunshine the jumper looks pale grey. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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T\u00e4m\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n kuva ei v\u00e4ris\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6jen j\u00e4lkeen toista lopullista v\u00e4ri\u00e4 aivan oikein, mutta on varmaan l\u00e4hinn\u00e4 totuutta. Ja v\u00e4ri tietysti my\u00f6s n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 hiukan erilaiselle eri valaistuksessa. \/
Even after colour adjustments this photo doesn’t show the true colour, but I think it’s closest to the truth. And of course colour does look different in different lighting conditions. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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L\u00f6ysin neuleesta kolme t\u00e4llaista pient\u00e4 reik\u00e4\u00e4, joita ei ollut ennen v\u00e4rj\u00e4yst\u00e4. Taideparsinta hoitaa homman. \/
I found three of these tiny holes, which weren’t there before the dye bath. Mending takes care of it.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Kuvan keskell\u00e4 ja yl\u00e4reunassa n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t ruskeat kohdat ovat v\u00e4rj\u00e4yksess\u00e4 n\u00e4kyviin tulleita tahroja. \/
Brown areas in the middle and on top of the photo are stains which were revealed during the dye process. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

T\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n olisi ollut omavaraistelevien bloggareiden lokakuun yhteispostausp\u00e4iv\u00e4, mutta en t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa ole mukana. Jos olet kiinnostunut niist\u00e4, l\u00f6yd\u00e4t kaikki osallistuvat postaukset Tsajut-blogista. Omavaraistelun sijaan kertoilen t\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4yshommista. Innostuin tuosta kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4yksest\u00e4 sen verran, ett\u00e4 ilmoittauduin mukaan yhden p\u00e4iv\u00e4n kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4yskurssille. P\u00e4iv\u00e4 oli aivan huikea kokemus. Rantam\u00f6kin pihapiiri t\u00e4yttyi porisevista v\u00e4ripadoista kun sienet, j\u00e4k\u00e4l\u00e4t ja kasvit keittyiv\u00e4t ensin… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":18620,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[25,155,26,7],"tags":[104,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-18614","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-eviltuunaa","8":"category-inspiraatio","9":"category-kierratys-ja-kirppis","10":"category-projektit","11":"tag-projects","12":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","14":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/pusero5.jpg?fit=800%2C1189","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-4Qe","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18614","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=18614"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18614\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":18625,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18614\/revisions\/18625"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/18620"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=18614"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=18614"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=18614"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}