{"id":18488,"date":"2024-07-28T15:20:34","date_gmt":"2024-07-28T12:20:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=18488"},"modified":"2024-07-28T15:20:34","modified_gmt":"2024-07-28T12:20:34","slug":"kasvivarjarin-paivakirja-diary-of-natural-dyer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=18488","title":{"rendered":"Kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4rin p\u00e4iv\u00e4kirja \/ Diary of natural dyer"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Vuosikausia olen haaveillut ja suunnitellut kasveilla v\u00e4rj\u00e4\u00e4mist\u00e4. Minulla on ollut pitk\u00e4\u00e4n \u00e4idilt\u00e4 saatuja kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4ttyj\u00e4 villalankoja, joiden hailukka kellanvirhe\u00e4 v\u00e4rimaailma ei oikein ole makuuni. Pid\u00e4n enemm\u00e4n vahvoista vihreist\u00e4, siniharmaista, punertavista ja ruskeista s\u00e4vyist\u00e4. Niinp\u00e4 olen jo useamman vuoden seuraillut Suomen V\u00e4rj\u00e4rikillan facebook-sivua. Tyypillisestih\u00e4n suunnittelen uusia projekteja ensin vuoden pari ennen kuin arvaan aloittaa kokeilemaan omin p\u00e4in mit\u00e4\u00e4n. Ehdin jo pari vuotta sitten ostaa valkoista lankaakin v\u00e4rj\u00e4yst\u00e4 varten. Haaveilen neulovani itse v\u00e4rj\u00e4tyist\u00e4 langoista joskus 1890-luvun alun tyylisen py\u00f6r\u00e4ilyneuleen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u00e4n\u00e4 kes\u00e4n\u00e4 kuitenkin p\u00e4\u00e4tin ett\u00e4 nyt tai ei koskaan. Niinp\u00e4 ker\u00e4sin lapsuudenkodissa k\u00e4ydess\u00e4ni tien poskesta kastikkaa. Se on tuollainen hein\u00e4kasvi jossa on violettiin taittavat r\u00f6yhyt. Sill\u00e4 pit\u00e4isi v\u00e4rj\u00e4tess\u00e4 saada vihreit\u00e4 ja vaaleanpunaisen s\u00e4vyj\u00e4. Yleisohjeissa sanotaan ett\u00e4 tuoretta kasvia pit\u00e4isi ker\u00e4t\u00e4 noin kilo kohden 100g lankaa. Min\u00e4 en kumminkaan ker\u00e4nnyt niin paljon. Ker\u00e4sin noin muovikassillisen kastikan r\u00f6yhyj\u00e4, siin\u00e4 oli 420 grammaa. Ne pit\u00e4isi ker\u00e4t\u00e4 nuorina, juuri avautuneina, jotta niist\u00e4 saa mahdollisimman voimakkaan v\u00e4rin. Minulla tuli sekaisin sek\u00e4 nuoria ett\u00e4 hiukan vanhempia r\u00f6yhyj\u00e4, ei kuitenkaan jo haalistuneita r\u00f6yhyj\u00e4. Sitten v\u00e4rj\u00e4yshommiin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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PIENI KASVIV\u00c4RJ\u00c4YS-SANASTO<\/strong>
Luonnonv\u00e4rj\u00e4ys \/ kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4ys<\/strong>
Lankojen ja tekstiilien v\u00e4rj\u00e4\u00e4minen luonnosta saatavilla v\u00e4riaineilla, kuten erilaisilla kasveilla, j\u00e4k\u00e4lill\u00e4, puunkuorella ja sienill\u00e4. V\u00e4rj\u00e4ykseen voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6s keitti\u00f6n kaapeista l\u00f6ytyvi\u00e4 aineksia kuten teet\u00e4, sipulinkuoria, avokadon kuoria jne.
Purete<\/strong>
Purete auttaa v\u00e4riainetta kiinnittym\u00e4\u00e4n kuituun paremmin sek\u00e4 kest\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n paremmin pesua ja auringonvaloa. Puretteet ovat yleens\u00e4 metallisuoloja tai parkkiaineita, kuten alunaa tai soijamaitoa. Joissakin kasveissa tai kasvinosissa on luonnostaan puretetta, joten sellaiset v\u00e4rikasvit eiv\u00e4t v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4 erikseen tarvitse puretetta. T\u00e4llaisia ovat mm. puunkuoret joissa on tanniinia.
Purettaminen<\/strong>
V\u00e4rj\u00e4tt\u00e4vien tekstiilien k\u00e4sittely purete-aineella. Lopputulokseen vaikuttaa hiukan sekin, miss\u00e4 vaiheessa puretus on tehty.Purettamisen voi tehd\u00e4 ennen v\u00e4rj\u00e4yst\u00e4, sen aikana, tai sen j\u00e4lkeen. Yleens\u00e4 suositellaan purettamista ennen v\u00e4rj\u00e4yst\u00e4.
V\u00e4riliemen happamuus<\/strong>
V\u00e4riliemen happamuus vaikuttaa siihen, millaista v\u00e4ri\u00e4 se antaa. Joillakin kasveilla hapan liemi antaa aivan erilaisen v\u00e4rin kuin neutraali tai em\u00e4s v\u00e4riliemi. Happamuutta voi s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4 esim sitruunahapolla tai soodalla ja testata tarvittaessa lakmuspaperilla. My\u00f6s k\u00e4ytetty purete saattaa vaikuttaa happamuuteen ja siten muuttaa lopullista v\u00e4ris\u00e4vy\u00e4.
J\u00e4lkiliemi\/j\u00e4lkiv\u00e4ri<\/strong>
Kun v\u00e4riliemest\u00e4 on v\u00e4rj\u00e4tty er\u00e4 lankaa, j\u00e4\u00e4 j\u00e4ljelle ns. j\u00e4lkiliemi, josta voi viel\u00e4 irrota v\u00e4riaineita. Yleens\u00e4 j\u00e4lkiliemest\u00e4 irtoava v\u00e4ri on vaaleampi kuin ensimm\u00e4inen v\u00e4ri ja saattaapa se usein olla t\u00e4ysin eri v\u00e4rinenkin. Halutessaan j\u00e4lkiliemen v\u00e4ri\u00e4 voi muuttaa sen happamuutta s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Apuaineet<\/strong>
Apuaineilla kuten viinikivell\u00e4 voidaan parantaa v\u00e4rin tarttumista ja syvyytt\u00e4. Niill\u00e4 voidaan my\u00f6s vaikuttaa saatavaan v\u00e4ris\u00e4vyyn. Tietyt metallisuolat kuten rauta- ja kuparivihtrilli lis\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n v\u00e4rj\u00e4ykseen apuaineen omaisesti mieluiten aivan loppuvaiheessa tai erillisen\u00e4 k\u00e4sittelyn\u00e4, jolloin ne voivat toimia yht\u00e4 aikaa sek\u00e4 puretteena sek\u00e4 apuaineena. Joidenkin metallisuolojen liian pitk\u00e4 vaikutusaika haurastuttaa kuituja ja tekee niist\u00e4 karkeita.
Valonkesto<\/strong>
Valonkesto tarkoittaa sit\u00e4 miten hyvin v\u00e4ri pysyy muuttumattomana auringon valolle altistuessa. Valitettavasti antosyaani-v\u00e4rit eiv\u00e4t kest\u00e4 auringonvalon haalistavaa vaikutusta. T\u00e4llaisia ovat mm. monet marjojen ja kukkien antamat punaiset, siniset ja violetit, kuten lupiininkukkien siniset s\u00e4vyt. <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Seuraavana aamuna t\u00e4ytin ison emalikattilan r\u00f6yhyill\u00e4 ja sadevedell\u00e4. Lukemani mukaan r\u00f6yhyt tulee k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 heti tuoreeltaan, mutta arvelin ett\u00e4 ne ovat viel\u00e4 tuoreita seuraavana p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4. Keittelin r\u00f6yhyj\u00e4 vedess\u00e4 noin parisen tuntia, plus noin tunti, joka hitaalla keittolevyll\u00e4ni meni nostaa l\u00e4mp\u00f6 kiehumispisteeseen. T\u00e4m\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen siivil\u00f6in r\u00f6yhyt pois ja annoin liemen j\u00e4\u00e4hty\u00e4 noin 65 asteeseen. Sitten lis\u00e4sin 200g aiemmin \u00e4itini v\u00e4rj\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4 villalankaa ja nostin l\u00e4mm\u00f6n noin 80 asteeseen. Villalankaa ei saa p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4 kiehumaan sill\u00e4 se avaa villan suomut pysyv\u00e4sti ja tekee siit\u00e4 karkeaa ja hauraampaa. V\u00e4rj\u00e4yshommissa on siis t\u00e4rke\u00e4\u00e4 olla mukana l\u00e4mp\u00f6mittari eik\u00e4 keitosta kannata j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 vahtimatta. Koiranputkella aiemmin v\u00e4rj\u00e4tty haaleankeltainen lanka l\u00e4hti vihertym\u00e4\u00e4 kivasti. Annoin lankojen poreilla hiljakseen siin\u00e4 noin 80 asteessa 1-2 tuntia. Sitten j\u00e4tin langat liemeen j\u00e4\u00e4htym\u00e4\u00e4n seuraavaan p\u00e4iv\u00e4\u00e4n jolloin otin ne pois ja huuhtelin sadevedell\u00e4 kunnes vesi oli kirkasta. Ripustin langat kuivumaan ulos. Koska \u00e4itini oli purettanut kaikki langat jo aiemmin niit\u00e4 v\u00e4rj\u00e4tess\u00e4\u00e4n, minun ei en\u00e4\u00e4 tarvinnut k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 puretetta. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Kastikat menossa keittoon \/
Hey soup going to boil<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Liemess\u00e4 n\u00e4ytti olevan viel\u00e4 reilusti v\u00e4ri\u00e4 j\u00e4ljell\u00e4, joten seuraavana p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 l\u00e4mmitin sen uudelleen 80 asteeseen. Halusin kokeilla jotakin muuta v\u00e4ri\u00e4, joten lis\u00e4sin sekaan ripottelemalla pienen m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4n sitruunahappoa. Liemi muuttui vihert\u00e4v\u00e4n ruskeasta punaiseksi. Laitoin toiset 200 grammaa villalankaa pataan. N\u00e4m\u00e4 langat oli aiemmin v\u00e4rj\u00e4tty nokkosen j\u00e4lkiliemess\u00e4, v\u00e4ri oli hailun vaaleankeltainen. J\u00e4tin langat tekeytym\u00e4\u00e4n noin reiluksi pariksi tunniksi noin 80 asteeseen. Sen j\u00e4lkeen sammutin keittolevyn ja annoin taas j\u00e4\u00e4hty\u00e4 y\u00f6n yli. Aamulla huuhtelin langat ja ripustin kuivumaan. Langat pit\u00e4isi v\u00e4rj\u00e4yksen j\u00e4lkeen my\u00f6s pest\u00e4, mutta minulla ei ollut neutraalia pesuainetta, joten tyydyin t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa vain huuhtelemaan ne sadevedell\u00e4. Saatan pest\u00e4 ne viel\u00e4 my\u00f6hemmin kunhan saan hankittua jotakin neutraalia pesuainetta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kuivuessaan v\u00e4rit luonnollisesti vaalenivat, mutta nyt minulla on 200g pehme\u00e4\u00e4 salvianvihre\u00e4\u00e4 sek\u00e4 hennon roosan v\u00e4rist\u00e4 lankaa. Neutraali tai liev\u00e4sti em\u00e4ksinen liemi antoi kastikasta tulokseksi vihre\u00e4\u00e4 ja happoa lis\u00e4tt\u00e4ess\u00e4, v\u00e4ri muuttui punaiseksi. Olen n\u00e4hnyt joidenkin saaneen lopputulokseksi vahvaa sammalenvihre\u00e4\u00e4 ja pinkimp\u00e4\u00e4 punaista. Ep\u00e4ilen ett\u00e4 itsell\u00e4ni ei ollut tarpeeksi paljon aivan nuoria r\u00f6yhyj\u00e4 vahvan v\u00e4rin saamiseksi, tai sitten en antanut v\u00e4rin irrota heinist\u00e4 riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n kauan. Luonnonv\u00e4reill\u00e4 v\u00e4rj\u00e4tess\u00e4 lopputulos on aina v\u00e4h\u00e4n yll\u00e4tys, sill\u00e4 kaikki vaikuttavat lopputulokseen: k\u00e4ytetty astia (alumiini-rautapata-ter\u00e4s-emali), k\u00e4ytetyn veden happamuus (sadevesi-kaivovesi-vesijohtovesi), k\u00e4ytetty v\u00e4rikasvi ja sen m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4, purete, langan originaali v\u00e4ris\u00e4vy sek\u00e4 mahdolliset muut k\u00e4ytetyt apuaineet. V\u00e4rikylvyn l\u00e4mp\u00f6tilakin voi vaikuttaa v\u00e4riin. Mieluiten olisin ottanut hiukan vahvempia v\u00e4rej\u00e4, mutta huomioidaan nyt kuitenkin ett\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4 oli ensimm\u00e4inen kasviv\u00e4ri-kokeiluni, joten tiet\u00e4myst\u00e4 ja kokemusta on v\u00e4h\u00e4nlaisesti. Lopputulos on kuitenkin huomattavasti parempi kuin mit\u00e4 l\u00e4ht\u00f6tilanne. T\u00e4st\u00e4 on hyv\u00e4 jatkaa seuraavilla kokeiluilla. Ker\u00e4ttyn\u00e4 on jo kuivia, ylivuotisia vuorenkilven lehti\u00e4 joista pit\u00e4isi saada jonkinlaista kullanruskeaa, sek\u00e4 ruskeita lep\u00e4nk\u00e4pyj\u00e4 joista pit\u00e4isi saada my\u00f6s tummanruskeaa. Ostin my\u00f6s er\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4 toiselta v\u00e4rj\u00e4rilt\u00e4 kuivattuja verihelttaseitikkej\u00e4 joista pit\u00e4isi saada punaruskeaa ja oranssia. Oletko sin\u00e4 v\u00e4rj\u00e4nnyt kasveilla tai haluaisitko kokeilla kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4yst\u00e4?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n

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Years and years I have been dreaming of dyeing with plants. Many years I have also had some plant dyed wool yarns, which I got from my mum. The colours, pale yellows and dull greens are not really my vibe. I like more vibrant greens, grayish blues, reds and brown tones. So I have been lurking in the Finnish Nature Dyers quild’s Facebook page for couple of years. Typically I plan things year or two, before I actually dare to start experimenting on my own. I have already bought white yarn for dyeing, couple years ago. My dream is to knit 1890’s cycling jumper from home dyed yarns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I decided that this summer it’s now or never. So I picked up some calamagrostis from the roadsides of my childhood home. It is kind of hay-type of plant with purplish flowers. Calamagrostis should give green and light pink shades. In the general nature dye instructions usually recommed to have 1 kg of fresh plants per 100g of yarn. I didn’t collect that much though. I had about one plastic bag of hey, it was 420 grams. Calamagrostis should be picked young, so that the flowers are just opening and there is as much of purple colour in them as possible. This gives strongest colours as a result. I had both, young and older plants, but not completely faded flowers. And then off to the dye pot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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LITTLE NATURAL DYE VOCABULARY<\/strong>
Natural dyes \/ plant dyes<\/strong>
Dyeing yarns and textiles with dyes from nature, like plants, lichen, tree bark and mushrooms. You can also use things from your pantry like tee, onion peel, avocado peel and so on.
Mordant<\/strong>
Mordant helps dye to attatch to fibers and makes the colours more longlasting on the fading affects of washing and sunlight. Mordants are usually metallic salts or tannins, like alum or soy milk. Some plants have natural mordants, so those plants don’t require separate mordant treatment. For example tree barks are natural mordants.
Mordant<\/strong>ing
Treating textiles or yarns with mordant. It can affect slightly on the colour result, depending on what stage of dying you do the mordanting. You can do mordanting before dyeing, during it or after it. Usually mordanting is recommended to be done before dying.
Acidity of the dye bath<\/strong>
Acidity of the dye bath affects on the colour. Some plants give different colours depending if the bath is neutral, base or acidic. You can adjust the acidity for example with baking soda or lemon acid and test it with litmus paper. The mordant can also affect on the acidity of the dye bath and then change the final result.
Second bath \/ second colour<\/strong>
When you have finished dyeing one portion of yarn, there often is some dye left in the bath. That is a second dye bath. Usually second bath give much more pale result or sometimes even totally different colour. If you want, you can also adjust the colour of second bath with changing the acidity of it.
Additional ingredients<\/strong>
Additional ingredients like cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate) can improve the depth and attatchment of the colour. Sometimes additional ingredients like modifiers can affect on the actual colour shade. Some metallic salts like iron or copper can be added to the dye at the end of the dye bath or as a separate treatment to change the result completely. Some metallic salts however affect the durability of the fibers so they are recommended to be used only for short affect times separately.
Lightfastness<\/strong>
Lightfastness means how well the colour stays unchanged when it’s exposed to sunlight. Unfortunately anthocyanin colours are not very lightfast and for this reason many red, blue and purple colours from berries and flowers are usually not very lightfast. <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Next morning I filled big enamel pot with rainwater and hey. According to what I have read, hey flowers should be used fresh, but I thought they should still be pretty fresh the next morning. I boiled them in about couple hours, plus one hour, which it took the water to come to boil. My old electric stove is not very fast. After this I sieved the plants out and allowed the water to cool down to about +65 Celcius. Then I added 200g of previously dyed wool yarn. It was dyed by my mum in the 80’s, I think, with cow parsley. I allowed the temperature to rise to about +80 Celcius and left it there for about 1-2 hours. Wool should not be allowed to boil, because that opens the wool scales perminately and weakens the fibers. It becomes coarse and more fragile. It’s important to have thermometer, so that you can check the water temperature regularly. After couple of hours, I turned the stove off and allowed the dye and yarns cool down overnight. In the morning I took yarns out of the liquid and rinsed them with rainwater as long as the water turned clear. Then I hung the yarns to drye outside. Because my mum used the mordant already when she dyed the yarns, I didn’t have to use any. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Ensimm\u00e4isest\u00e4 er\u00e4st\u00e4, aiemmin koiranputkella v\u00e4rj\u00e4tty\u00e4 lankaa olisi tarkoitus tehd\u00e4 vihre\u00e4\u00e4. \/
First batch of yarn, previously dyed with cow parsley, is supposed to turn into green.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Liquid seemed to have still some dye left, so next day I heated it up again into +80 Celcius. I wanted to try something different with this second bath, so I sprinkled little bit of lemon acid into it. That turned the liquid from greenish brown into red. I added another 200g of yarn into the pot. These yarns had been previously dyed on the second bath of stinging nettle, colour was very pale yellow, almost like cream colour. I left the yarns into the second bath for about couple hours. After that I turned the stove off and left to cool overnight. In the morning I rinsed them again and hung to dry outside. Yarns should be washed after dyeing, but I didn’t have natural washing powder at hand, so I only rinsed these yarns with rainwater. I might wash them later when I manage to get neutral washing liquid. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Colours did fade a bit when yarns dried, but now I have 200g or soft sage green and pale rose pink yarn. Neutral or slightly base dye gave green result and when I added acid on the dye, it gave result of red\/pink. I have seen that some dyers have got vibrant moss green and more dark pink results. I think that I probably didn’t have enough plants for the amount of yarn, the calamagrostis were too matured to give more vibrant colours or that I didn’t let the plants to soak long enough in the water before sieving them out. Using plants for dye the result is always a bit of a surprise, everything affects on the result: pot you are using (iron pot-enamel-steel-aluminum), the acidity of the water (rainwater-tapwater-water from natural well), plant you are using and the amount you have of it, mordant, original colour of the yarn and also possible other ingredients you use. Even the temperature of the dye bath can affect on the colour. I’d rather have a bit more vibrant colours, but let’s face it, this was my very first try on natural dyes, so I don’t really have much knowledge or experience. Result is much more desirable than the original was. I feel confident to continue my experiments with other plants. I already have collected old brown bergenia leaves, which should give some sort of golden brown colour and dry alder cones, which should give dark brown. I also bought dried cortinarius semisanguineus mushrooms from another dyer. They should give brownish red and orange colours. Have you ever dyed with plants or would you be interested in dyeing with them?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n

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Hein\u00e4t siivil\u00f6ity pois. \/
Hey have been sieved out.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Liemi n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 punertavan ruskealta, mutta vihre\u00e4\u00e4 n\u00e4ihin lankoihin alkoi tarttua. Is\u00e4nt\u00e4 askarteli l\u00e4mp\u00f6mittarilleni telineen kattilan reunaan. \/
Bath looks like brownish red, but green was the colour that the yarns started to pick up. Hubby made a simple holder for my thermometer.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Ensimm\u00e4inen er\u00e4 oli valmiiksi vyyhdetty, mutta toisen er\u00e4n jouduin vyyhte\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n, sill\u00e4 langat oli keritty. \/
First batch of yarn was already in skein, but second batch I had to skein myself because they were in balls. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Muutin v\u00e4rikylvyn happamuutta lis\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 hiukan sitruunahappoa, liemen v\u00e4ri muuttui punaisempaan. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 toinen er\u00e4 lankaa menossa v\u00e4rj\u00e4ykseen. \/
I changed the acidity of the dye bath for the second dye by adding just a sprinkle of lemon acid. Dye bath turned much more red. Here is my second batch going into the dye bath. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Toinen er\u00e4 lankaa tulossa pois kylvyst\u00e4. Langat ovat m\u00e4rkin\u00e4 viel\u00e4 ruismarjapuuron v\u00e4risi\u00e4. Kuivuessa v\u00e4ri kuitenkin vaalenee. \/
Second batch of yarn coming out of the dye bath. Yarns look much more vibrant when they are wet. Drying will tone down the colours though.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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T\u00e4ss\u00e4 lopulliset v\u00e4rit. V\u00e4rien valokuvaaminen luonnollisina on todella vaikeaa. Yritin saada t\u00e4h\u00e4n kuvaan v\u00e4rit toistumaan mahdollisimman hyvin sellaisina kuin ne minusta luonnossa n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t. Jossakin valossa ja useimmissa valokuvissa roosa n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 enemm\u00e4n beigelle ja vihre\u00e4 harmaalle. \/
Here are the final results. Photographing colours as they naturally are is really tricky. I tried to get them here as close as they naturally look to me. In some light and in most photos dusty rose looks more beige and sage green looks grey. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Vertailukuvassa on n\u00e4ytteet lankojen alkuper\u00e4isest\u00e4 s\u00e4vyst\u00e4 ja uudesta s\u00e4vyst\u00e4. Olen n\u00e4ihin eritt\u00e4in tyytyv\u00e4inen, vaikka s\u00e4vyt ovatkin vaatimattomammat kuin olin alun perin toivonut. \/
On this comparison photo yarn swatches show both the original and new colour side by side. I am very happy with these, even though new colours are much more toned down than I originally hoped for. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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T\u00e4ss\u00e4 kaikkien \u00e4itini 80-luvulla v\u00e4rj\u00e4\u00e4mien lankojen v\u00e4rin\u00e4ytteet. Kortin toiselle puolelle kiinnit\u00e4n ja merkitsen kunkin langan uudelleen v\u00e4rj\u00e4yksen tiedot ja v\u00e4rin\u00e4ytteet. N\u00e4m\u00e4 alkuper\u00e4iset hailun kellert\u00e4v\u00e4n ja vihre\u00e4n s\u00e4vyt eiv\u00e4t oikein ole miellytt\u00e4neet eiv\u00e4tk\u00e4 siksi ole tulleet k\u00e4ytetyiksi. \/
Here are the colour swatches of all yarns my mum dyed in the 80’s. On the other side of the card I will add swatches and information about new dyes. These original pale yellow and green shades have not been particularly exciting, so they have never been used. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vuosikausia olen haaveillut ja suunnitellut kasveilla v\u00e4rj\u00e4\u00e4mist\u00e4. Minulla on ollut pitk\u00e4\u00e4n \u00e4idilt\u00e4 saatuja kasviv\u00e4rj\u00e4ttyj\u00e4 villalankoja, joiden hailukka kellanvirhe\u00e4 v\u00e4rimaailma ei oikein ole makuuni. Pid\u00e4n enemm\u00e4n vahvoista vihreist\u00e4, siniharmaista, punertavista ja ruskeista s\u00e4vyist\u00e4. Niinp\u00e4 olen jo useamman vuoden seuraillut Suomen V\u00e4rj\u00e4rikillan facebook-sivua. Tyypillisestih\u00e4n suunnittelen uusia projekteja ensin vuoden pari ennen kuin arvaan aloittaa kokeilemaan omin p\u00e4in… <\/p>\n

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