{"id":17760,"date":"2023-12-03T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-12-03T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=17760"},"modified":"2023-12-03T10:16:33","modified_gmt":"2023-12-03T08:16:33","slug":"3-12-23-vintagekenkien-kayttoonotto-preparing-vintage-shoes-for-use","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=17760","title":{"rendered":"3\/12-23 Vintagekenkien k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6notto \/ Preparing vintage shoes for use"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Toivepostaus<\/em><\/strong>
L\u00f6ysit ihanat vintagekeng\u00e4t kirppikselt\u00e4 mutta mit\u00e4s nyt? Ovatko k\u00e4ytetyt keng\u00e4t ep\u00e4hygieniset tai ep\u00e4terveelliset k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4? Tarttuuko niist\u00e4 jalkasieni tai voiko niist\u00e4 saada jalkavamman? Mit\u00e4 kengille pit\u00e4isi tehd\u00e4 ennen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6nottamista? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mit\u00e4\u00e4n kenki\u00e4 ei kannata vet\u00e4ist\u00e4 jalkaan samantien suoraan kirppiskassista. Ennenkuin otat ne ihanat keng\u00e4t k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n, listaan t\u00e4ss\u00e4 muutaman vinkin huolto-toimenpiteist\u00e4, jotta kengist\u00e4 on iloa mahdollisimman pitk\u00e4\u00e4n. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pohjat ja korot<\/strong>
Tutki ensin pohjien ja korkojen kunto. Jos kyseess\u00e4 on oikeasti vanhat keng\u00e4t, eli 90-lukua tai vanhemmat, ovat korkolaput luultavasti hapertuneet s\u00e4ilytyksess\u00e4. Keng\u00e4t kannattaa siis v\u00e4hint\u00e4\u00e4n vied\u00e4 suutarille korkolappujen vaihtoon. My\u00f6s pohjamateriaalin rakenne on saattanut s\u00e4ilytyksen ansiosta muuttaa ominaisuuksiaan ja liimat ovat saattaneet kuivua ja irrota. Taivuta ja v\u00e4\u00e4ntele kenki\u00e4 hiukan, jos pohja alkaa halkeilla tai murentua tai irtoaa p\u00e4\u00e4llisest\u00e4, keng\u00e4t kannattaa pohjauttaa tai liimauttaa uudelleen. Itse olen aiemmin ainakin kerran tai pari tehnyt sen virheen ett\u00e4 otin vintagekeng\u00e4t k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n heti ja ensimm\u00e4isell\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00f6kerralla korkolaput murenivat pois. Jos korkolappujen irtoamista ei huomaa heti, korot saattavat vaurioitua k\u00e4velless\u00e4. Riippuu toki hieman my\u00f6s siit\u00e4 miten korot on valmistettu. Jos kengiss\u00e4 on nahkapaloista kerrostamalla liimattu korko tai nahkainen korkolappu, silloin riitt\u00e4nee liimausten tarkistus ja nahan elvytys satularasvalla. Tarkista my\u00f6s ett\u00e4 korko on tukevasti kiinni ja ett\u00e4 kenkien pohjat eiv\u00e4t ole taipuneet “nurin” liian vahvojen lepolestien vuoksi. Jos keng\u00e4t eiv\u00e4t asetu tasaisesti p\u00f6yd\u00e4lle vaan korko osoittaa hiukan kohti p\u00e4ki\u00e4\u00e4, tai p\u00e4ki\u00e4 vaikuttaa jotenkin omituisen muotoiselle, kenkien rakenne on saattanut vaurioitua. Jos korko vemputtaa tai k\u00e4velless\u00e4 keng\u00e4st\u00e4 kuuluu napsunaa, keng\u00e4n sis\u00e4ll\u00e4 oleva nk. lenkkirauta on katkennut ja vaatii uusimista. T\u00e4ll\u00f6in kannattaa mietti\u00e4 onko kallis korjauttaminen vaivan arvoista vai onko parempi pist\u00e4\u00e4 keng\u00e4t roskiin.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Moderneistakin kengist\u00e4 pohjan kunto kannattaa tutkia sill\u00e4 nykyisin EU-m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4ysten johdosta tietyiss\u00e4 s\u00e4ilytysolosuhteissa pohjamateriaalien pit\u00e4\u00e4 alkaa “maatumaan”. Modernien kenkienk\u00e4\u00e4n pohjat eiv\u00e4t siis kest\u00e4 ikuisuuksia k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4n\u00e4. Omassa kaapissa jo asuvien kenkien kunto kannattaa tarkistaa s\u00e4\u00e4nn\u00f6llisesti. Lattial\u00e4mmitys pilaa kenkien pohjat muutamassa kuukaudessa joten \u00e4l\u00e4 s\u00e4ilyt\u00e4 kenki\u00e4 lattialla. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kenkien sis\u00e4osat<\/strong>
Puhdista sis\u00e4osat pintapuolisesti. Ravista pois p\u00f6ly, hiekka ja kuolleet \u00f6t\u00f6k\u00e4t (kyll\u00e4, niit\u00e4kin on joskus tullut kohdattua). Joskus ihmisi\u00e4 pelotellaan jalkasienell\u00e4 jos k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 vanhoja kenki\u00e4. Itse en ole koskaan jalkasient\u00e4 saanut vintage-kengist\u00e4 tai muistakaan k\u00e4ytetyist\u00e4 kengist\u00e4. Oman k\u00e4sitykseni mukaan jalkasienen iti\u00f6t ja rihmastot eiv\u00e4t selvi\u00e4 kengiss\u00e4 kovin pitk\u00e4\u00e4n otollisten olosuhteiden h\u00e4vitty\u00e4. Eli jos keng\u00e4t ovat olleet k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4n\u00e4 vuosikymmeni\u00e4, kuten vintagekeng\u00e4t usein ovat, en usko ett\u00e4 mit\u00e4\u00e4n vaaraa on. Jos asia kuitenkin ep\u00e4ilytt\u00e4\u00e4 tai keng\u00e4t ovat hiljattain olleet k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4, ne voi k\u00e4sitell\u00e4 vaikka apteekista saatavalla terbinafiinisuihkeella ennen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00e4. Jos kenkien sis\u00e4osat ovat kovin kuluneet, kannattaa arvioituttaa suutarilla mit\u00e4 niille voisi tehd\u00e4. Rikki kuluneen pohjallisen voi vaihtaa. Vanhemmissa kengiss\u00e4 korot on naulattu kiinni pohjaan ja joskus naulat saattavat ty\u00f6ty\u00e4 ulos kenkien sis\u00e4puolelta. Nekin voi suutarilla tarkistuttaa tai jos itse on k\u00e4tev\u00e4 pikkuvasaran kanssa, voi toki kokeilla itsekin naulata niit\u00e4 takaisin. Usein sis\u00e4osien kunnostukseksi riitt\u00e4\u00e4 puhdistus ja uudet pohjalliset.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e4\u00e4llinen<\/strong>
Nahkaiset keng\u00e4t kannattaa AINA ennen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00e4 k\u00e4sitell\u00e4 huolellisesti nahkarasvalla. P\u00e4\u00e4llisin puolin hyv\u00e4n n\u00e4k\u00f6inenkin nahka voi olla s\u00e4ilytyksess\u00e4 kuivunut ja jo ensimm\u00e4inen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6kerta saattaa pilata sen korjauskelvottomaksi jos kaikki nahan elastisuus on kadonnut. K\u00e4sittele keng\u00e4t nahkarasvalla niin ett\u00e4 levit\u00e4t ohuen kerroksen kauttaaltaan koko keng\u00e4lle. Anna rasvan imeyty\u00e4 vuorokausi. K\u00e4sittelyyn sopii esim satularasva, Pecard leather dressing tai muu rasvainen voide. \u00c4l\u00e4 k\u00e4yt\u00e4 nestem\u00e4isi\u00e4 hoitoaineita, ne eiv\u00e4t ole riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n hoitavia. Tarkista seuraavana p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 tilanne ja jos rasva on kokonaan imeytynyt, uusi k\u00e4sittely. Jatka k\u00e4sittely\u00e4 p\u00e4ivitt\u00e4in kunnes rasva lakkaa imeytym\u00e4st\u00e4 nahkaan ja pyyhi sitten imeytym\u00e4t\u00f6n kerros pois. Kiillota keng\u00e4t lopuksi puhtaalla kankaalla.
Kankaiset keng\u00e4t harjataan puhtaaksi vaateharjalla. Jos kengiss\u00e4 on tahroja jotka eiv\u00e4t kuivaharjaamalla irtoa, keng\u00e4t voi varovasti pest\u00e4 pehme\u00e4ll\u00e4 hammasharjalla. Ota pieneen kulhoon huoneenl\u00e4mp\u00f6ist\u00e4 vett\u00e4. Pursota v\u00e4h\u00e4n nestem\u00e4ist\u00e4 pyykinpesuainetta hammasharjaan ja huljuttele sitten kulhossa kunnes aine on liuennut. Ravista ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4inen vesi pois harjasta ja harjaa keng\u00e4t kauttaaltaan kankaan lankojen suuntaisesti. Harjaa eniten tahraisia kohtia. Kasta harjaa vedess\u00e4 jos\/kun se kuivuu, mutta k\u00e4yt\u00e4 niin v\u00e4h\u00e4n vett\u00e4 kuin mahdollista. Pese molemmat keng\u00e4t mahdollisen v\u00e4rieron v\u00e4ltt\u00e4miseksi. V\u00e4lt\u00e4 pohjien kastelua sill\u00e4 pesuaine ja vesi liuottaa kengiss\u00e4 k\u00e4ytetyt liimat. Kun olet tyytyv\u00e4inen lopputulokseen, taputtele keng\u00e4t mahdollisimman kuivaksi talouspaperilla sek\u00e4 sis\u00e4lt\u00e4 ett\u00e4 ulkoa. Tee talouspaperista pallot kenkien k\u00e4rkeen. Anna lopuksi kuivua kunnolla hyvin tuuletetussa paikassa, kaukana l\u00e4mm\u00f6nl\u00e4hteist\u00e4 ja auringonpaisteesta.
Mokkakengille on omat hoitoaineensa, mutta niist\u00e4 minulla ei valitettavasti ole kovin paljoa kokemusta. Vinkkej\u00e4 erityisesti mokalle en siis pysty t\u00e4ss\u00e4 antamaan, mutta mokanhoitoaineissa on kyll\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00f6ohjeet joita kannattaa noudattaa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yleist\u00e4<\/strong>
K\u00e4ytetyt keng\u00e4t eiv\u00e4t koskaan ole sama asia kuin uudet keng\u00e4t. Ne ovat ehtineet jo muotoutua edellisen k\u00e4ytt\u00e4j\u00e4n jalan mukaan. Ne ovat luultavasti kuluneetkin k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4. Vanhojen kenkien rakenne voi olla hyvin erilainen moderneihin kenkiin verrattuna. Vanhoja kenki\u00e4 ei kannata k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 kovin pitki\u00e4 aikoja kerrallaan, ainakaan alussa, ennen kuin olet varmistunut siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 ne sopivat sinulle. Modernit kehittyneet valmistustekniikat sallivat t\u00e4ysin erilaisten kenkien valmistuksen kuin ennen. Pohjiin saadaan integroitua erilaisia t\u00e4r\u00e4hdyst\u00e4 vaimentavia ominaisuuksia, joustavia materiaaleja, pehmeit\u00e4 strobel-pohjia jne. Jos olet tottunut moderneihin, kevyisiin ja eritt\u00e4in pehmeisiin ja joustaviin kenkiin, kannattaa vanhoihin kenkiin totutella v\u00e4h\u00e4n kerrassaan. V\u00e4hitellen totuttelemalla ja sis\u00e4\u00e4najamalla keng\u00e4t omiin jalkoihisi v\u00e4ltyt isommilta rakoilta ja muilta jalkavaivoilta. Jos jalat eiv\u00e4t totu kenkiin, ne eiv\u00e4t ehk\u00e4 sovi juuri sinun jalkoihisi.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Request post<\/em><\/strong>
You found lovely vintage shoes, but what to do with them? Are second hand shoes unhygienic or unhealthy to use? Do they pass on the foot fungus or can you get foot injury? What should you do to the shoes before start using them?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You definitely shouldn’t use any shoes directly out of the thrift bag. Before you start using them, I am listing couple of tips how to take care of them, so that you can enjoy your new thrift find as long as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soles and heels<\/strong>
Firstly check the condition of soles and heels. If it’s truly old shoes, like the ones made in 1990’s or even much before that, heel pads are probably disintegrated. So the least you should do is to take them to the cobblers and have heel pads replaced. Also the actual sole might have damaged over wrong or too long storaging. Glues might have disintegrated or dried. Bend, twist and turn shoes, as the way they would when wearing and see if the outsole starts cracking, crumbling, flaking or comes off of the shoe completely. If so, you might have to have them re-soled or re-glued. Once I have made the mistake of using old shoes straight from the bag and after half an hour of walking the heelpads completely crumbled off. If you don’t notice this straight away, you might end up damaging the heels beyond repair. This depends on how the heels are made. If they are layered from leather pieces, they probably are possible to repair and regluing and moisturizing the leather is probably enough. Also check that the heel is sturdily on and that the sole hasn’t bent “backwards” due to too strong shoe tree. If the shoes don’t sit flat on the table, but the heel is pointing towards the toes or that if the toe seems wonky somehow, the whole construction of the shoes might have been damaged. If heel seems wobbly or the shoes make snapping sound when walking, the metal shank of inner support might have snapped and needs replacing. Then you should consider if it’s worth repairing or not.
Even with modern shoes you should check the condition of the outsole, because modern waste disposal regulations require that outsoles will start disintegrating quite soon if shoes are stored wrong. So basically they start decomposing in certain conditions. So check regularly also the shoes in your own wardrobe. Floor heating will definitely destroy the outsoles of any shoes within couple of month, so never keep your shoes on a floor with floor heating. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Insides<\/strong>
Clean the insides of the shoes. Shake out dust, sand and dead bugs (yes, I have had my fair share of those too). Sometimes people are scared with the foot fungus and other health hazards when using old shoes. I have never got foot fungus from second hand shoes. Ever. As far as I understand, the spores and mycelium of foot fungus can’t live very long when the propitious conditions don’t exist anymore. So if shoes haven’t been used for years or decades, like the case with vintage often is, there should be no danger of getting infected. However if you are suspicious or if the shoes have been recently worn, you can always spray the shoes with terbinafine spray before start using them. If the insides are very wornout, you could take them to cobblers for evaluation if anything can be done. If insole is broken you can replace that. In older shoes the heels have been nailed to the shoes. Sometimes the nails start poking back under the foot. In this case you can try hammering them back or take the shoes to cobblers for repairs. Often the cleaning and new insoles are, however, enough. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Upper<\/strong>
Leather shoes should be ALWAYS treated with proper leather dressing before use. Even leather which looks fine can be dry as a paper and even the first wear can damage it permanently, if all the elasticity has vanished. Treat shoes with leather care cream by applying thin layer. You can use saddle cream, Peckard leather dressing or other creamy care products. Don’t use liquid shoe creams, because they are not moisturising enough. Allow it to seep in overnight and check result the next day. If all cream has vanished, renew the treatment. Keep repeating with new layers as long as the cream seeps in. When the layer doesn’t vanish overnight anymore, shoes are now well moisturised. You can wipe off the excess cream and polish the shoes.
Fabric shoes are first brushed with soft clothing brush. If there are stains which don’t come off with dry-brushing, you can clean shoes with toothbrush wash. Take a small bowl of lukewarm water and soft toothbrush. Apply little bit of washing liquid onto the brush and whisk it in the bowl of water untill detergent has solved into the water. Shake access water out and start brushing the shoes along the fabric grainline. Brush shoes all over and if the brush dries out, dip it in the water. However, use as little water as possible. Wash both shoes to avoid colour differences. Avoid wetting the soles, so that glues don’t solve out. When you are satisfied with the result, pat the excess water out with paper tissues inside and out. Make two balls of paper tissues and place them inside the toes of the shoes. Allow to dry in well ventilated place, away from heat sources and sunshine.
Sued shoes have their own treatments, but I don’t have much experience on those. I can’t give any additional tips for that. However suede care products do have instructions and you should follow those. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

General tips<\/strong>
Second hand shoes are never the same thing than new shoes. They have already adjusted to the feet of previous owner. They probably are also worn to some point. Construction of old shoe can also be very different than modern shoes. You should not use them for long periods of time, atleast not in the beginning. And not before you have made sure they actually are suited to your feet. Modern technology allows to make completely new kinds of shoes than decades ago. It is possible to integrate all sorts of shock-absorbing features, flexible materials, soft strobel insoles and all sorts of other features. If you are used to modern, soft, flexible and lightweight shoes, you should get used to old style shoes in moderation. By getting used to vintage shoes bit by bit, you will avoid major blistering and other feet problems. If your feet don’t get used to the shoes over time, they might not suit you at all. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Vanhojen kenkien rakenne poikkeaa paljon moderneista. Vasemmalla 40-luvun puupohjainen, paperista tehty kenk\u00e4 joka ei kest\u00e4 kovaa k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00e4 ja tuntuu jalassa ep\u00e4mukavammalle kuin pehme\u00e4t ja taipuista modernit keng\u00e4t. Oikealla olevan vintagekeng\u00e4n ohuet remmit eiv\u00e4t kest\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00e4, ellei niit\u00e4 ole huolellisesti pehmitetty nahanhoitoaineella. Jos korko vemputtaa, keng\u00e4n sis\u00e4ll\u00e4 oleva, pohjaa tukeva lenkkirauta on poikki. \/
Construction of old shoes is very different than in modern shoes. 40’s shoe on the left is made of wood and paperyarn. It can’t handle the heavy wear and wooden sole feels more uncomfortable than modern soft and flexible shoes. Fine straps of the vintage shoe on the right are too delicate and they can rip of, unless well conditioned with leather care cream. If the heel feels un-sturdy, the metal shank has snapped in half. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n
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Kenkien pohjat ovat katkenneet ja niit\u00e4 on aiemmin yritetty korjata. Pohjien nahka vaikuttaa kovalta ja kuivalta. Vaatinevat suutarin arvioinnin, korjauksen ja huoltotoimenpiteit\u00e4 ennen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00e4. \/
Outsoles have snapped and someone has tried repairing them before. Leather on the soles seems hard and dry. These will require cobbles evaluation, repairs and maintenance before use. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Pohjan naulat ovat alkaneet ty\u00f6nty\u00e4 yl\u00f6sp\u00e4in ja tuntuvat muhkuroina pohjallisen l\u00e4pi. Takaisinnaulaus tai uudelleennaulaus ja mahdollisesti uudet pohjalliset, \/
Nails on the heel have started to push back up and feel uncomfortable lumps under the insoles. Needs hammering them back or re-nailing and possibly new insoles. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Pohjan ommel on pett\u00e4nyt ja vaatii joko liimausta tai ompelua. \/
Stitching on the outsole has worn off and this pair requires either re-stitching or gluing.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Korkolaput tuntuvat kovilta. Joskus pilalle menneiden korkolappujen tai pohjamuovin v\u00e4ri muuttuu harmahtavaksi. Pinta n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 ik\u00e4\u00e4n kuin homeiselle. Kyseess\u00e4 ei kuitenkaan ole home vaan materiaalin ik\u00e4\u00e4ntymisest\u00e4 johtuva haurastuminen joka muuttaa v\u00e4ri\u00e4 ja rakennetta. \/
Heel pads seem quite hard and brittle. Sometimes the heel pads or outsoles colour changes into grayish on the surface. It looks almost like mold. It is not mold however, but it is caused by the aging of the material. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Toivepostaus L\u00f6ysit ihanat vintagekeng\u00e4t kirppikselt\u00e4 mutta mit\u00e4s nyt? Ovatko k\u00e4ytetyt keng\u00e4t ep\u00e4hygieniset tai ep\u00e4terveelliset k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4? Tarttuuko niist\u00e4 jalkasieni tai voiko niist\u00e4 saada jalkavamman? Mit\u00e4 kengille pit\u00e4isi tehd\u00e4 ennen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6nottamista? Mit\u00e4\u00e4n kenki\u00e4 ei kannata vet\u00e4ist\u00e4 jalkaan samantien suoraan kirppiskassista. Ennenkuin otat ne ihanat keng\u00e4t k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n, listaan t\u00e4ss\u00e4 muutaman vinkin huolto-toimenpiteist\u00e4, jotta kengist\u00e4 on iloa mahdollisimman pitk\u00e4\u00e4n…. <\/p>\n

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