{"id":17537,"date":"2023-07-24T00:03:43","date_gmt":"2023-07-23T21:03:43","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=17537"},"modified":"2023-08-30T11:58:23","modified_gmt":"2023-08-30T08:58:23","slug":"uusi-korsetti-new-corset","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=17537","title":{"rendered":"Uusi korsetti \/ New corset"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

En ole aikoihin saanut aikaiseksi ommella juuri mit\u00e4\u00e4n. Enk\u00e4 varsinkaan mit\u00e4\u00e4n historiallisia juttuja. Itse\u00e4ni inspiroidakseni ja saadakseni ompeluinnon taas p\u00e4\u00e4lle hain Scroop patterns’in uuden Persis-korsetin<\/a> kaavatestaajaksi. Olinkin eritt\u00e4in iloinen kun tulin valituksi mukaan. Vaatekaapissani on 1900-luvun alun ment\u00e4v\u00e4 aukko, jota olen aikeissa t\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4. Testaajien tarkoituksena on ommella annetulla kaavalla vaate ja etsi\u00e4 samalla siin\u00e4 tai valmistusohjeissa olevia virheit\u00e4, jotta kaava olisi myyntiin tullessaan mahdollisimman k\u00e4ytt\u00e4j\u00e4yst\u00e4v\u00e4llinen ja virheist\u00e4 ja ep\u00e4johdonmukaisuuksista vapaa. Huomaathan siis ett\u00e4 t\u00e4ss\u00e4 postauksessa k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4ni kaava saattaa erota hiukan virallisesta, myynniss\u00e4 olevasta kaavasta. Lis\u00e4ksi olen tehnyt kaavaan pieni\u00e4 istuvuusmuutoksia itse. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En ole ommellut valmiskaavoilla mit\u00e4\u00e4n vuosiin, tai oikeastaan jopa vuosikymmeniin. Siksikin t\u00e4m\u00e4 oli itselleni erityisen kiinnostava kokeilu. Halusin testata miten historiallisen valmiskaavan k\u00e4ytt\u00f6 sujuu ja kannattaisiko minun jatkossa hy\u00f6dynt\u00e4\u00e4 niit\u00e4 enemm\u00e4n, sen sijaan ett\u00e4 piirr\u00e4n joka kerran kaavan itse. En nimitt\u00e4in yht\u00e4\u00e4n tykk\u00e4\u00e4 kaavan piirt\u00e4misest\u00e4, vaikka saankin itselleni parhaiten istuvia vaatteita juuri siten. Persis-kaavan mukana tulivat eritt\u00e4in tarkat ohjeet koon valitsemiseen, luettelo tarvittavista materiaaleista ja m\u00e4\u00e4rist\u00e4 sek\u00e4 yksityiskohtaiset ompeluohjeet vinkkeineen. Kaava on merkitty taitotasolta ekspertiksi, mutta arvelen ett\u00e4 yksityiskohtaisten ohjeiden avulla my\u00f6s aloittelija voisi onnistua. Koska olen ommellut korsetteja ennenkin ja minulla on jo useamman vuosikymmenen kokemus ompelusta noin yleisesti, en tarvinnut ohjeita kovin paljoa. Koin kuitenkin ett\u00e4 ohjeet olivat loogisessa j\u00e4rjestyksess\u00e4 ja niist\u00e4 oli helppo tarkistaa asioita silloinkin kun tarvitsi vain pient\u00e4 muistinvirkistyst\u00e4 ompeluj\u00e4rjestyksest\u00e4 tai saumarakenteesta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Olen suunnitellut korsetin ompelua jo useamman vuoden, joten suurin osa materiaaleista l\u00f6ytyi minulta itselt\u00e4ni ennest\u00e4\u00e4n. Jouduin tilaamaan ainoastaan sopivan pituisen plansetin ja synteettist\u00e4 valaanluuta. Saatan lis\u00e4ksi my\u00f6hemmin hommata kunnollista puuvillaista korsettiny\u00f6ri\u00e4. K\u00e4ytin t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa litte\u00e4\u00e4 puuvillanauhaa, joka ei v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4 ole kaikkein paras vaihtoehto sill\u00e4 metalliset sirkat saattavat kuluttaa sen nopeasti k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4. Pidin t\u00e4st\u00e4 korsetin kaavasta erityisesti siksi ett\u00e4 siin\u00e4 oli kaksi erilaista lantion istuvuus-vaihtoehtoa, kolme erilaista rintakupin istuvuus-vaihtoehtoa sek\u00e4 kaksi erilaista alaosan ja yl\u00e4osan reunan muotoilua. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Kaavanosat oli helppo tulostaa ja teipata. \/ It was easy to print and tape the pattern together.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Valitsin alunperin koon 42-44, rintakupin koon C-D ja lantion istuvuuden Average fit, mutta tehty\u00e4ni sovitusvaatteen totesin ett\u00e4 kaava oli melko reilu. Niinp\u00e4 vaihdoin rintakupin kokoon A-B ja lantion istuvuuden etukappaleiden osalta Slender fit-versioon. Lis\u00e4ksi jouduin tekem\u00e4\u00e4n pieni\u00e4 sis\u00e4\u00e4nottoja etukappaleiden yl\u00e4- ja alareunoihin. Ep\u00e4ilen n\u00e4iden muutosten johtuvan ainakin yl\u00e4osan kohdalla siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 minulla ymp\u00e4ryys rinnan alta ja hartialeveys on melko pieni suhteessa muuhun vartalon kokoon. Huomioi kuitenkin ett\u00e4 myyt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4n kaavaan on saatettu tehd\u00e4 pieni\u00e4 muutoksia testauksen j\u00e4lkeen, joten valitse oma kokosi kaavan mittataulukon ja istuvuusvinkkien perusteella. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En erityisemmin pid\u00e4 kaavoista joissa on saumanvarat valmiina, sill\u00e4 olen tottunut lis\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n kaavoihin itse mieleiseni saumanvarat vasta leikkuuvaiheessa. T\u00e4m\u00e4n luukujallisen korsetin leikkaus ja ompelu oli kuitenkin helppoa ja vuorittomana se valmistuikin nopeasti. Ainoa sauma jossa saattaa ommellessa tulla hiukan haasteita on lantiokiilan kurvikas sauma. Itselleni k\u00e4vi tosin pieni aloittelijan moka leikkausvaiheessa sill\u00e4 j\u00e4ljensin kaikki merkinn\u00e4t vahingossa kankaan oikealle puolelle nurjan sijaan. Korsettia ei ole tarkoitus pest\u00e4, joten nyt korsetissa on sitten punaiset merkinn\u00e4t mahdollisesti ikuisesti. Toivon kyll\u00e4 ett\u00e4 ne kuluisivat aikaa my\u00f6den ainakin v\u00e4h\u00e4n himme\u00e4mm\u00e4ksi. Oh well, eiv\u00e4th\u00e4n merkinn\u00e4t n\u00e4y muille kuin minulle itselleni, kun korsetti kuitenkin yleens\u00e4 on vaatteiden alla n\u00e4kym\u00e4tt\u00f6miss\u00e4, mutta harmittaa se silti v\u00e4h\u00e4n. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauha ja luukujat paikoillaan. \/ Waist tape and boning channels are in place.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Kaikkein ty\u00f6l\u00e4in ja \u00e4rsytt\u00e4vin homma koko korsetissa oli ny\u00f6rityksen tekeminen. Sirkkarenkaita tarvitaan nimitt\u00e4in 40-42 kappaletta ja niiden kiinnitt\u00e4minen on hidasta. Etenkin kun olen yritt\u00e4nyt sinnitell\u00e4 tuollaisella vanhanaikaisella puikurilla. Joudun tekem\u00e4\u00e4n kankaaseen rei\u00e4n ensin naskalilla ja sitten suurentamaan sit\u00e4 puikurilla. Koska puikurissa ei ole kahvaa, se k\u00e4y kovasti sormien p\u00e4\u00e4lle. Joutunen viimein antamaan periksi ja tilaamaan ergonomisen puikurin. Huomioitavaa on my\u00f6s ett\u00e4 vaatteisiin kiinnitett\u00e4viss\u00e4 sirkkarenkaissa pit\u00e4\u00e4 aina olla my\u00f6s prikka, muutoin ne rikkovat kangasta eiv\u00e4tk\u00e4 pysy kunnolla kiinni. Koristeluiksi l\u00f6ysin varastoistani kolme erilaista pitsi-vaihtoehtoa: moderni leve\u00e4 pitsi, beige vintage-brodyyri sek\u00e4 kapea vintage-pitsi. Valitsin vaatimattoman vintage-pitsin sek\u00e4 kaksi s\u00f6p\u00f6\u00e4 nauharuusua. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Olen t\u00e4h\u00e4n korsettiin aivan erinomaisen tyytyv\u00e4inen. Malli on kaunis ja kaavan muokkaaminen omalle vartalolle oli superhelppoa vaihtamalla kaavanosia. Se on lis\u00e4ksi eritt\u00e4in mukava p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4. J\u00e4tin t\u00e4ll\u00e4 er\u00e4\u00e4 sukkanauhat siit\u00e4 pois, mutta todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isesti lis\u00e4\u00e4n ne viel\u00e4 my\u00f6hemmin. T\u00e4h\u00e4n on hyv\u00e4 ryhty\u00e4 rakentamaan edwardiaanista asua ymp\u00e4rille. <\/p>\n\n\n

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I haven’t been sewing much anything for long time. Especially historical clothing. To inspire myself and to get my sewing mojo back I applied to be a pattern tester for the new Persis corset by Scroop Patterns<\/a>. I was extremely happy to be chosen as one. There is an early 1900’s size hole in my wardrobe, which I am planning on filling. Testers purpose is to make the garment and try and find flaws on the pattern and instructions, so that it would be as user-friendly and free of irregularities as possible. So please notice that the actual, official pattern might be slightly different than my test version. Also, I have made small fit adjustments to it myself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I haven’t sewn anything with readymade patterns for years, or more likely for decades. For that reason, this was very interesting test for me. I wanted to see how using a historical ready-made pattern would work for me and should I use them more in the future. After all, I don’t really like drafting patterns, even though it’s the best way of getting well-fitting clothing for myself. Persis pattern came with very precise instructions for choosing the size, list of all materials and amounts and very detailed sewing instructions with tips. Pattern is marked as skill level expert, but I think that with these, exceptionally detailed instructions, even beginner should be able to do it. I have made corsets before, and I have decades experience on sewing, so I didn’t need the support on instructions that much, but I found them really easy to browse when ever I needed to check on detailes like sewing order or seam construction. Everything was in logical order and easy to read.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I have been planning a new corset for years now, so I had most materials in my stash. I only needed to order busk and synthetic whalebone. I might later buy also proper corset lacing. This time I used thin, flat cotton ribbon, which is not ideal. Eyelets might wear it too fast in use. I like this corset pattern because it gas two hip fit optios, three fit options for bust gore and two different view options for both, top and hemline. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Originally I chose size 42-44 with cup C-D and average hip fit. After making toile, I realized bust was way too large and hip too. So I changed bust gore to A-B and front hip pieces to slender fit. I also had to do little bit of intakes to the bust front and lower belly area. I suspect that mostly these changes are due to my narrow shoulders and relatively small under-bust circumference (my under-bust is actually smaller than my waist). Please notice that there might be small changes done on the actual pattern based on test period. Fit for the launched pattern might be slightly different than on the test pattern. So choose the pattern size based on their size chart and fitting instructions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I don’t particularly like patterns with seam allowance, because I’m so used to drafting my own patterns and afterwards adding the allowances according to my preference when cutting the fabric. However cutting and sewing this non-lined corset with bone casings was very easy and straight forward. Without lining it was really quick to sew. Only seam which might give some problems is the very curvy hip gore seam. I made a slight rookie mistake when cutting the pieces though. I accidentally transferred all the markings on the wrong side of the fabric. Corset is not really for washing, so those red markings will be visible on the outside probably forever, but I am hoping that they will fade away atleast little bit over time. Oh well, in the end I am the only one to see them, because they will be under other farments at all times. But it still upsets me slightly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most tedious job on this corset was making the lacing. You need 40-42 eyelets and it is very slow to hammer them on. Especially because I only have vintage awl without a proper handle, it is very hard on the fingers. First I have to make the hole with sharp leather awl and then enlargen the hole with sewing awl. I might finally have to give in and get proper awl with ergonomic handle. Also notice that for fabric clothing you should only use eyelets with washers. Ordinary eyelets break fabric and come off more easily. For decoration I found three options from my stash: modern floral lace, vintage beige embroidered lace and narrow vintage lace. I chose the simple vintage lace and two cute ribbon roses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I am extremely happy about this corset. Model of it is very pretty and altering it for my body was super easy by swapping into different fit options on the patterns. It is also really comfy to wear. This time I left the garters out, but I probably add them later. This is good base for my future edwardian wardrobe. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sirkkojen asennusta \/ Inserting eyelets.<\/a><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Prikka tekee sirkasta tukevan ja est\u00e4\u00e4 kankaan rikkoutumisen. \/ Eyelets with washers are sturdier and prevents fabric from ripping<\/em>.<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n\n

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Pitsivaihtoehdot \/ Lace options<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

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Vasta kuvasta huomasin ett\u00e4 istuvuus vaatisi viel\u00e4 hiukan hiomista. Yl\u00e4osaan rinnan sivulle muodostuu pullistuma ja vaakasuora vekki. Se viittaisi siihen ett\u00e4 tuosta kappaleesta pit\u00e4isi ottaa hiukan leveydest\u00e4 pois . Muutoin korsetti istuu aivan t\u00e4ydellisesti. \/ I noticed only from the photos that there seems to be like a bubble on the side of the bust. There is also horizontal crease there. That would suggest that this particular pattern piece requires some intake on seams still.<\/em><\/strong> Otherwise corset fits just perfectly.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

En ole aikoihin saanut aikaiseksi ommella juuri mit\u00e4\u00e4n. Enk\u00e4 varsinkaan mit\u00e4\u00e4n historiallisia juttuja. Itse\u00e4ni inspiroidakseni ja saadakseni ompeluinnon taas p\u00e4\u00e4lle hain Scroop patterns’in uuden Persis-korsetin kaavatestaajaksi. Olinkin eritt\u00e4in iloinen kun tulin valituksi mukaan. Vaatekaapissani on 1900-luvun alun ment\u00e4v\u00e4 aukko, jota olen aikeissa t\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4. Testaajien tarkoituksena on ommella annetulla kaavalla vaate ja etsi\u00e4 samalla siin\u00e4 tai… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":17550,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Testing a pattern ang gaining corset at the same time. ","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,228,12,7,150,13],"tags":[151,273,91,104,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-17537","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-evilompelee","8":"category-historianelavoitys","9":"category-munelama","10":"category-projektit","11":"category-pukuhistoria","12":"category-vaatehtimo","13":"tag-costume-history","14":"tag-historical-costuming","15":"tag-my-life","16":"tag-projects","17":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","19":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/persiscorset7.jpg?fit=800%2C1067","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-4yR","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17537","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=17537"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17537\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":17610,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17537\/revisions\/17610"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/17550"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=17537"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=17537"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=17537"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}