{"id":17369,"date":"2023-04-17T21:17:27","date_gmt":"2023-04-17T18:17:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=17369"},"modified":"2023-04-17T21:17:27","modified_gmt":"2023-04-17T18:17:27","slug":"mantsala-mielessain-mantsala-folk-costume","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=17369","title":{"rendered":"M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4 mieless\u00e4in \/M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4 folk costume"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Nykyisin ompeluhommat edistyv\u00e4t hirmu hitaasti kun on niin paljon muutakin puuhaa. Kohtalon oikusta piti kuitenkin j\u00e4rjest\u00e4\u00e4 aikaa ja tehd\u00e4 keskener\u00e4inen M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4n kansallispuku valmiiksi. Halusin pukea sen \u00e4itini hautajaisiin. Hameen, esiliinan ja puseron olin tehnyt valmiiksi jo aiemmin, onhan puku ollut minulla jo vuodesta 2019. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ostaessani puvun se oli melkein kokonaan kankaina. Pirtanauhat oli kudottu, hame- ja liivikankaat oli kudottu ja paidan koristeompeleet ja kirjonnat oli tehty. Minun teht\u00e4v\u00e4kseni j\u00e4i koota kirjailtu, leikattu pusero, ommella liivi sek\u00e4 hameeseen vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitale ja helmak\u00e4\u00e4nne ja valmistaa silkkinen esiliina. Liivi\u00e4 lukuun ottamatta osat valmistuivatkin melko nopsasti koska eiv\u00e4t vaatineet kaavoitusta juuri lainkaan. Lis\u00e4ksi pukuun kuuluvat tasku, sarvimyssy, alushame ja sukat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Melko pian puvun hankkimisen j\u00e4lkeen ilmoittauduin nypl\u00e4yskurssille, jotta voisin nypl\u00e4t\u00e4 sarvimyssyyn kuuluvat, n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t pitsit. Valmiina ostaen ne maksavat useamman saturaisen, vaikka pituutta on vain 90 sentti\u00e4. T\u00e4ll\u00e4 hetkell\u00e4 leve\u00e4mm\u00e4st\u00e4 pitsist\u00e4 puuttuu noin 25 cm ja myssy odottaa ett\u00e4 saan hankittua sopivaa silkkinauhaa. Olen nypl\u00e4nnyt niit\u00e4 aktiivisesti oikeastaan vain kansalaisopiston kurssilla. Muutoin pitsit olisivat valmistuneet paljon nopeammin. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taskun ompelun olin aloittanut jo aiemmin, saatuani hameen valmiiksi. Siihen k\u00e4ytettiin nimitt\u00e4in hamekankaasta yksi kuvioraita, josta ommeltiin leve\u00e4mpi kangaspala. Tasku odotti en\u00e4\u00e4 ainoastaan liivikankaisia kanttauksia. En kuitenkaan voinut leikata niit\u00e4 ennen kuin liivi oli leikattu, sill\u00e4 kangasta oli kudottu melko naftisti. Liivikangasta s\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4kseni olin aiemmin tehnyt my\u00f6s hameen vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleen pellavasta liivikankaan sijaan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4n puku on koottu 80-luvulla ja se on siten yksi ensimm\u00e4isi\u00e4 kansallispukuja jotka on suoraan koottu vastaamaan paremmin historiallisia esikuviaan. Siin\u00e4kin on kuitenkin joitakin yksityiskohtia joiden kohdalla nykyisin rohkaistaan tekem\u00e4\u00e4n viel\u00e4 l\u00e4hemm\u00e4ksi historiallisia esikuvia. Eniten t\u00e4m\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy liivin kaavoituksessa ja yksityiskohdissa, joita jouduin hiukan fiksaamaan. 80-luvun kaavassa takaosan k\u00f6rtit eli laskokset on tehty erillisest\u00e4 kaarevasta kaistaleesta. Nykyisin kuitenkin suositaan k\u00f6rttej\u00e4 jotka jatkuvat takakappaleesta ilman poikkisaumaa. Sain onneksi Facebookin kansallispuku-ryhm\u00e4st\u00e4 apua ja onnistuin kaavoittamaan liivin paremmin esikuvia vastaavaksi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vaikka puvusta puuttuvat viel\u00e4 virallinen alushame, neulesukat ja sarvimyssy, sain kuin sainkin puvun k\u00e4ytt\u00f6kuntoon hautajaisiin. L\u00e4nsisuomalaisiin pukuihin voi yhdist\u00e4\u00e4 silkkihuivin oman maun mukaisesti, niinp\u00e4 puin t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa mustan kirkkosilkkihuivin puvun kanssa. Iloisempiin tilaisuuksiin voin pukea ruskeas\u00e4vyisen kuviollisen silkkihuivin tai vaikka v\u00e4rikk\u00e4\u00e4mm\u00e4n yksiv\u00e4risen. Puku on tyylik\u00e4s ja se sai ansaittua huomiota. \u00c4iti sai olla tytt\u00e4rest\u00e4\u00e4n ylpe\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n

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These days it seems that all my sewing projects take forever because I got so much other things to do. Due to whim of fate, I had to arrange some time and finish my unfinished M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4 folk costume. I wanted to wear it to my mums funeral. I had earlier finished skirt, apron and blouse. After all, I have had the costume since 2019. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When I bought the costume it was almost completely in solid pieces of fabric. Ribbons were woven, skirt and jumps fabrics were woven, shirt was embroidered and cut. My job was to sew the shirt together, sew the jumps (or waistcoat I’m not sure which the accurate term would be), make waistband to the skirt and make the silk apron. Everything else except the jumps I was able to finish pretty quickly, because they didn’t really require much pattern drafting. Other pieces include pocket, hat, petticoat and stockings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pretty soon after buying the dress I signed in on bobbin lace course, so that I could make the elaborate lace for the hat. If you want to order them readymade, they cost several hundred euro’s even though they are only 90 cm long. At the moment I am missing only 25 cm from the wider of the two laces and my hat is waiting for some silk ribbons. I haven’t really actively bobbin laced except on the actual course. Otherwise I might have been able to finish them much sooner. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I had started the pocket before, right after I finished the skirt. Pocket is constructed only of skirt fabric stripes and it was just waiting for the trimming. Trimming was made of the jumps fabric, but I didn’t want to cut it before I cut the actual jumps. There was just so little fabric that I didn’t want to take the chance of it running out. For the same reason I didn’t use the jumps fabric for the skirt waistband, but made it of plain linen instead. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4 costume is gathered in the 1980’s and for that reason it is one of the first costumes which are made to match better the extant historical pieces than older national costumes. Even so, it still has some details which are now encouraged to make match the extant pieces better. Mostly this shows on the jumps pattern and detailing. So I had to adjust those a bit. In my pattern the back pleats are made with separate curved pattern pieces, however now they recommend continueing back pieces to pleats without seam.. Thankfully I was able to get some help from our National costume facebook group for adjustments and managed to draft better pattern. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even though costume is still missing official petticoat, knitted stockings and hat, I was able to make it wearable for the funeral. To western Finnish costumes it’s allowed to combine with silk scarf, so I wore the dress with black silk scarf, which has been traditionally something women wore to church in late 1800’s and early 1900’s. For happier occasions I have brown patterned scarf, or I could get another silk scarf in brighter solid colour. Costume is very stylish and it received some well-deserved attention. Mum could have been proud of her daughter. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Hamekankaan raidoista koottu tasku ja sinivalkoinen pirtanauha. \/
Pocket made of skirt fabric and white and blue ribbon.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
K\u00e4sinkudotussa hamekankaassa vuorottelevat tummansiniset ja v\u00e4rikk\u00e4\u00e4t raidat. Helma on kantattu mustalla tehdasvalmisteisella villakankaalla. \/
Skirt fabric is handwoven and has alternating dark blue and colourful stripes. Hem is trimmed with black fabric woven wool. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Paidan kauluksessa on hidast\u00f6ist\u00e4 revinn\u00e4isompelua. \/
Blouse collar has drawn threadwork, which is quite slow to sew. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Liivin ny\u00f6ritys ja rei\u00e4t suositellaan nykyisin tekem\u00e4\u00e4n luonnonv\u00e4risell\u00e4 pellavalla. \/
Current recommendation is to make lacing and eyelets with natural colour linen. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Olkap\u00e4\u00e4n kirjontaa. \/ Embroidery on the shoulder.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Liivin k\u00f6rtit. \/ Pleats at the back.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Langasta ommeltu nappi saisi nykysuositusten mukaan olla viel\u00e4 pulleampi ja tukevampi, mutta n\u00e4m\u00e4 oli ommellut edellinen omistaja enk\u00e4 alkanut niit\u00e4 nyt viel\u00e4 vaihtamaan. \/
Buttons made with thread should be even more chubbier, according to current recommendations. However these were made by previous owner and I didn’t want to change them just yet. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
\n
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Keskener\u00e4inen silkkimyssy ja toinen siihen kuuluvista pitseist\u00e4. T\u00e4t\u00e4 varten opettelin nypl\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n. \/
Unfinished silk hat and one of the two laces. I learned to do bobbin lace just for this. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
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Mustan silkkihuivin kanssa asustettuna. Nahkaiset solki- tai nauhakeng\u00e4t olisivat paremmat, mutta sellaisia minulla ei nyt t\u00e4h\u00e4n h\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n ollut. \/
Accessorised with black silk scarf. Leather bucked or laces shoes would be more accurate, but I don’t have those kind of shoes yet. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nykyisin ompeluhommat edistyv\u00e4t hirmu hitaasti kun on niin paljon muutakin puuhaa. Kohtalon oikusta piti kuitenkin j\u00e4rjest\u00e4\u00e4 aikaa ja tehd\u00e4 keskener\u00e4inen M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4n kansallispuku valmiiksi. Halusin pukea sen \u00e4itini hautajaisiin. Hameen, esiliinan ja puseron olin tehnyt valmiiksi jo aiemmin, onhan puku ollut minulla jo vuodesta 2019. Ostaessani puvun se oli melkein kokonaan kankaina. Pirtanauhat oli kudottu, hame-… <\/p>\n

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