{"id":16828,"date":"2022-12-09T04:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-12-09T02:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16828"},"modified":"2022-12-09T22:14:22","modified_gmt":"2022-12-09T20:14:22","slug":"09-12-22-materiaalit-villa-materials-wool","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16828","title":{"rendered":"09\/12-22 Materiaalit: Villa \/ Materials: Wool"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Siit\u00e4 on jo parisen vuotta kun olen viimeksi postannut materiaalien ominaisuuksista ja tunnistamisesta joten lienee paikallaan ottaa t\u00e4h\u00e4n v\u00e4liin yksi sellainen. T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa ajattelin kertoa hiukan yhdest\u00e4 lempimateriaaleistani, villasta. Villaa saadaan erilaisista lammasroduista: suomenlammas, kainuunharmas, merinolammas, oxford down, suffolk jne. Suomessa villa ja lammasturkis ovat yleens\u00e4 lampaanlihan sivutuote. On hyv\u00e4 ett\u00e4 lampaasta k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n hy\u00f6dyksi kaikki osat eik\u00e4 niit\u00e4 heitet\u00e4 hukkaan, mutta villan keritseminen on lampaiden hyvinvoinninkin kannalta t\u00e4rke\u00e4\u00e4. Villa jatkaa kasvuaan jatkuvasti. Lampaat on keritt\u00e4v\u00e4 pari kertaa vuodessa, jotta turkista ei kasva liian paksua. Ylipitk\u00e4 kerim\u00e4t\u00f6n turkki huopuu lampaan ylle ja alkaa painaa. Se ker\u00e4\u00e4 likaa ja loishy\u00f6nteisi\u00e4 ja pahimmillaan voi my\u00f6s kirist\u00e4\u00e4 el\u00e4imen ihoa ja voi aiheuttaa iho-ongelmia. Jokaisella lammasrodulla on omanlaisensa villa ja siksi niill\u00e4 on erilaisia ominaisuuksia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Villa koostuu yleens\u00e4 aluskarvasta ja p\u00e4\u00e4llyskarvasta. Aluskarva on hienompaa ja lyhyemp\u00e4\u00e4, p\u00e4\u00e4llyskarva on pidemp\u00e4\u00e4 ja karkeampaa. Eri roduilla alus- ja p\u00e4\u00e4llyskarva saattavat erota ominaisuuksiltaan. Lis\u00e4ksi karitsojen karva on yleens\u00e4 kiharampaa ja pehme\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4 kuin t\u00e4ysikasvuisten lampaiden. Villan luontainen kiharuus ja suomuinen pintarakenne tekee siit\u00e4 l\u00e4mmitt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4. Villassa on paljon lanoliinia, villarasvaa, joka on voimakas allergeeni. Se on erinomainen pehmitt\u00e4j\u00e4, joten sit\u00e4 k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n paljon kosmetiikassa, joskin sen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6 on v\u00e4henem\u00e4\u00e4n p\u00e4in allergisoivuutensa vuoksi. Jos saat villasta ihottumaa, syyn\u00e4 voi olla juuri lanoliini. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Villan tekstiiliominaisuuksiin kuuluu hyv\u00e4 v\u00e4rj\u00e4ytyvyys, l\u00e4mmitt\u00e4vyys, hengitt\u00e4vyys ja l\u00e4mp\u00f6muovautuvuus. Villa on joustavaa ja pehme\u00e4\u00e4, se my\u00f6s oikenee rypyist\u00e4 helposti. L\u00e4mp\u00f6muovautuvuuden ansiosta siit\u00e4 on mahdollista h\u00f6yrytt\u00e4\u00e4 ja pr\u00e4ss\u00e4t\u00e4 erinomaisesti istuvia vaatteita ja huovuttaa tiiviit\u00e4 tekstiilipintoja. Se ei likaannu kovin helposti ja puhdistuukin helposti. Villassa on luontaisesti paloturvallisia ominaisuuksia, sill\u00e4 se ei syty kovin helposti ja liekki yleens\u00e4 tukahtuu itsest\u00e4\u00e4n. Villalla on my\u00f6skin erinomainen kosteudensitomiskyky ja toisaalta se on taas lanoliinin ansiosta hiukan kosteutta hylkiv\u00e4\u00e4kin. Lis\u00e4ksi se tuntuu hiukan kosteanakin melko l\u00e4mpim\u00e4lt\u00e4, toisin kuin esim puuvilla. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Lukuisista hyvist\u00e4 ominaisuuksista huolimatta villallakin on huonot puolensa. Villa ei ole kovin kulutusta kest\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4, siksi villasukat kuluvat helposti puhki kantap\u00e4ist\u00e4. Allergisoivuutensa lis\u00e4ksi sen karkeammat laadut ja karkeat kuidunp\u00e4\u00e4t voivat \u00e4rsytt\u00e4\u00e4 ihoa. Joustavuus aiheuttaa vaatteisiin polvi- ja kyyn\u00e4rp\u00e4\u00e4pusseja, olille henkarinvenymi\u00e4 ja liian kuumat pesul\u00e4mp\u00f6tilat kutistavat ja huovuttavat villan piloille. Se my\u00f6s kellastuu helposti joka vaikuttaa v\u00e4reihin.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"1022\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool1.jpg?resize=800%2C1022\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-16998\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool1.jpg?w=800 800w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool1.jpg?resize=235%2C300 235w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool1.jpg?resize=157%2C200 157w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool1.jpg?resize=768%2C981 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><strong>Villaloimeen kudottu villahuopa. \/<br><em>Wool blanket, woven with wool warp.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Valmistus<\/strong><br>Villan valmistus on melko yksinkertaista. Lyhyk\u00e4isyydess\u00e4\u00e4n villa kerit\u00e4\u00e4n, lajitellaan laatujen mukaan, pest\u00e4\u00e4n, karstataan, kehr\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n langaksi ja kudotaan kankaaksi. K\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6ss\u00e4 valmistukseen kuitenkin kuuluu muitakin ty\u00f6vaiheita joista tyypillisin on v\u00e4rj\u00e4ys. Villaa voi ostaa l\u00e4hestulkoon kaikissa sateenkaaren v\u00e4reiss\u00e4, sill\u00e4 sen v\u00e4rj\u00e4ytyvyysominaisuudet ovat erinomaiset. Villaa on helppo v\u00e4rj\u00e4t\u00e4 my\u00f6s kotona. Toki villaa saa my\u00f6skin luonnollisissa v\u00e4reiss\u00e4 joihin kuuluvat erilaiset valkoiset, harmaat, ruskeat, mustanruskeat ja mustat s\u00e4vyt. Lis\u00e4ksi villalle voidaan antaa mm. superwash-k\u00e4sittely jonka j\u00e4lkeen se kest\u00e4\u00e4 konepesua. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Huolto<\/strong><br>Villaa pidet\u00e4\u00e4n usein hankalana materiaalina huoltaa, mutta se ei pid\u00e4 lainkaan paikkaansa. Villa on likaahylkiv\u00e4\u00e4 ja puhdistuu helposti. Usein pelkk\u00e4 tuuletus riitt\u00e4\u00e4. Villan herkk\u00e4 huopuvuus tekee siit\u00e4 ihmisten mieliss\u00e4 hankalan. Siit\u00e4 kuitenkin selvi\u00e4\u00e4 kun muistaa ett\u00e4 huopuakseen villa vaatii l\u00e4mp\u00f6\u00e4, em\u00e4ksist\u00e4 pesuainetta ja mekaanista rasitusta. Villa kest\u00e4\u00e4 kovaakin kuumennusta huopumatta (esim v\u00e4rj\u00e4yksess\u00e4) kunhan l\u00e4mp\u00f6tilan muutokset tapahtuvat hitaasti, eik\u00e4 villaa kovasti k\u00e4sitell\u00e4, esim hangata tai vatkata rajusti. Parhaiten villan pesu onnistuukin villan pesuun tarkoitetulla pesuaineella k\u00e4sin, tai pesukoneen villanpesuohjelmalla. Villa kannattaa pest\u00e4  ja huuhdella mieluiten noin 30 asteen l\u00e4mp\u00f6tilassa, etenkin jos ei ole aikaa nostaa ja laskea pesul\u00e4mp\u00f6tilaa hitaasti. Villa ei kuitenkaan tarvitse vesipesuja kovin usein. Villa oikenee rypyist\u00e4 itsekseen aikaa my\u00f6den, mutta sit\u00e4 voi my\u00f6s silitt\u00e4\u00e4 miedolla l\u00e4mm\u00f6ll\u00e4 tai kevyesti h\u00f6yrytt\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4. Villaan tulee kuitenkin helposti silityskiiltoa joten villavaate kannattaa silitt\u00e4\u00e4 nurjalta tai silitysliinan l\u00e4pi. Usein tosin pelkk\u00e4 h\u00f6yrytyskin riitt\u00e4\u00e4 joten raudalla ei tarvitse v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4 koskea tekstiiliin. Villan voi raikastaa talvella pakkass\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 lumipesulla, joka on vesipesua hell\u00e4varaisempi. Ohjeet lumipesuun l\u00f6ytyv\u00e4t <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13352\" target=\"_blank\">blogistani t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>EDIT -Meinasin vallan unohtaa t\u00e4rke\u00e4n asian. Nimitt\u00e4in sen ett\u00e4 el\u00e4inkuituna villan er\u00e4s huono puoli on ett\u00e4 se on arka tuholaisille. S\u00e4ilytyksess\u00e4 villaan saattavat iske\u00e4 kodin tuhohy\u00f6nteiset vaatekoi, vy\u00f6ihrakuoriainen ja turkiskuoriainen. T\u00e4st\u00e4 syyst\u00e4 villavaatteet kannattaa tuulettaa ja tarkistaa s\u00e4\u00e4nn\u00f6llisesti. Punaseetripalikoilla ja laventelituoksupusseilla voi my\u00f6s suojata villavaatteita tai s\u00e4ilytt\u00e4\u00e4 niit\u00e4 tiiviiss\u00e4 muovilastikossa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Tunnistus<\/strong><br>Villasta saadaan erilaisia villalaatuja, sek\u00e4 lammasrodun, el\u00e4imen i\u00e4n, ett\u00e4 sen mukaan miss\u00e4 kohtaa el\u00e4imess\u00e4 villa sijaitsee. Keritty villa lajitellaan puhtauden ja hienouden mukaan. Kaikkein likaisimmista villoista ei valmisteta tekstiilej\u00e4 vaan ne k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n esim maanparannukseen. Hienoimmista kampavilloista valmistetaan ohuita kes\u00e4laatuisia, sileit\u00e4 villoja jotka ovat pehmeit\u00e4 iholla. T\u00e4llaiset erityisen hienot villat voivat n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 ja tuntua iholle jopa hiukan silkkim\u00e4isilt\u00e4 ja niit\u00e4 voi olla erityisen vaikea tunnistaa. Kaikkein hienoimmat villat ovat kuitenkin eritt\u00e4in kalliita, eniten niit\u00e4 k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n kalliimmissa miesten puvuissa, joten yleisimmin kaupoissa ja kirppiksill\u00e4 t\u00f6rm\u00e4\u00e4 karkeampiin karstavilloihin. Karstavilloissakin on toki eroja, hienompia ja karkeampia. Esim merinovilla on jopa karstavillana pehme\u00e4\u00e4. Jos sinulla on taipumusta saada ihosi kutiamaan villasta, helpoimmin pystyt tunnistamaan villan, laittamalla tekstiilin hetkeksi kaulallesi. Itselleni t\u00e4m\u00e4 on takuuvarma keino tunnistaa villa. En ole villalle allerginen, mutta herkk\u00e4ihoisena villan karheat kuidunp\u00e4\u00e4t kutittavat ihoani. Herkk\u00e4 kaulan iho tunnistaa ne heti. Villa tuntuu usein karhealta my\u00f6s k\u00e4dell\u00e4 tunnustellen. Paras keino tunnistaa villa kuitenkin on polttokoe. El\u00e4inkuidut, kuten villa, palavat kytem\u00e4ll\u00e4. Niist\u00e4 j\u00e4\u00e4 paloj\u00e4\u00e4nteeksi tuhkaa ja  tulee samanlainen k\u00e4ry kuin palavasta hiuksesta. Villaan sekoitetaan usein tekokuituja kuten polyesteri\u00e4 tai akryyli\u00e4 jotka j\u00e4ljittelev\u00e4t villan ulkon\u00e4k\u00f6\u00e4 ja ominaisuuksia. Polttokokeessa villasekoitteet tunnistaa yleens\u00e4 siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 paloj\u00e4tteen\u00e4 on muovinen k\u00f6kk\u00e4re ja v\u00e4h\u00e4n tuhkaa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool2.jpg?resize=768%2C1024\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-16999\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool2.jpg?resize=768%2C1024 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool2.jpg?resize=225%2C300 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool2.jpg?resize=150%2C200 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool2.jpg?resize=630%2C840 630w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool2.jpg?w=800 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><strong>Villainen tai villasekoite-neule \/<br><em>Wool or wool mix knit<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Muut karvat ja villaimitaatiot<\/strong><br>Villaa j\u00e4ljittelevi\u00e4 synteettisi\u00e4 materiaaleja valmistetaan paljon. Yleisimmin villan korvaajana k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n polyakryylia, polyesteri\u00e4 ja polyamidia. Akryyli muistuttaa ulkoisesti eniten villaa, mutta se ei voita villaa l\u00e4mpimyydess\u00e4 eik\u00e4 oikein muiltakaan ominaisuuksiltaan. Koska villa ei ole kovin hyvin kulutusta kest\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4, siihen lis\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n polyamidia kulutuksenkestoa lis\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n. Villaa l\u00f6ytyykin useimmin sekoitteita joissa on erilaisina yhdistelmin\u00e4 villaa, tekokuituja, sek\u00e4 muita luonnonkuituja kuten silkki\u00e4, puuvillaa tai viskoosia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Yleens\u00e4 vain lampaista saatavaa kuitua kutsutaan villaksi. Muita villantyyppisi\u00e4 luonnonkuituja ovat kaikki muut el\u00e4inten karvat: angora, mohair, alpakka, vikunja, kashmir ja kameli. Angora-kuitua saadaan angorakaneista, mohair-kuitua taas angoravuohista. Angora on eritt\u00e4in pehme\u00e4\u00e4 ja siksi vanuttuu helposti, mik\u00e4 tekee siit\u00e4 vaikean kehr\u00e4t\u00e4. Mohair taas eritt\u00e4in pitk\u00e4kuituista ja kiilt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4. Alpakka, vikunja, guanako ja laama ovat laamael\u00e4imi\u00e4 ja niist\u00e4 saadaan hienompia karvalaatuja. Alpakka on lienee suurimmalle osalle tuttu ainakin nimen\u00e4, sill\u00e4 sen suosio neulelankana on kasvanut viimevuosina huimasti. Guanakon merkitys tekstiilintuotannossa on melko v\u00e4h\u00e4p\u00e4t\u00f6inen. Villi vikunja on rauhoitettu, mutta sit\u00e4 kasvatetaan jonkin verran kotiel\u00e4imen\u00e4. Vikunjasta saadaan maailman hienointa ja kalleinta karvaa. Kashmiria saadaan kashmirvuohista. Olet ehk\u00e4 kuullut tarinan erityisen hienosta shaalista joka oli niin ohutta ja hienoa villaa ett\u00e4 sen saattoi pujottaa sormuksen l\u00e4pi. T\u00e4m\u00e4n Ranskan keisarinna Eugenian kudottaman, ns. sormusshaalin, kerrotaan olleen kashmiria.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Harvinaisempien ja hienompien karvalaatujen tunnistaminen on vaikeaa, ellei jopa mahdotonta ilman materiaalilappuja. Mohair on n\u00e4ist\u00e4 ehk\u00e4 helpoin tunnistaa langan voimakkaasta p\u00f6rr\u00f6isyydest\u00e4 ja kuohkeudesta. Mohairia k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n yleens\u00e4 vain sekoitteena villan ja tekokuitujen kanssa. Nykyisin viskoosisekoitteet ja sek\u00e4 yleistynyt alpakka vaikeuttavat olennaisesti muiden tunnistusta. P\u00e4\u00e4s\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00f6n\u00e4 voidaan kuitenkin pit\u00e4\u00e4 sit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 kalliita ja harvinaisia karvalaatuja kuten vikunjaa ja kashmiria tuskin tulee vastaan. Laamankarva on tekstiileiss\u00e4 harvinaisempaa ja kamelinkarvaakaan ei usein nyky\u00e4\u00e4n l\u00f6ydy kuin korkeintaan vanhemmista villakangastakeista sekoitteena. Niiss\u00e4 kamelin v\u00e4risiss\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Muut materiaalioppaan osat l\u00f6yd\u00e4t t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4:<br><strong><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=14916\" target=\"_blank\">Pellava<\/a><\/strong><br><strong><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=15229\" target=\"_blank\">Silkki<\/a><\/strong><br><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=12085\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Yleiskatsaus<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"214\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/inenglish.gif?resize=214%2C100\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7004\"\/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p><strong>Notice! GiveAway will be closed today around 12.00 Eastern European time. So there is still little bit time to join in by commenting the post *click* <a href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16820\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">in here<\/a> *click*.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It was about couple years ago when I last posted about textile materials and identifying them. So I think it&#8217;s about time to do another one. This time I will talk about one of my favourite material, wool. Wool comes from all sorts of sheep breeds: finnsheep, kainuunharmas (rare Finnish breed), merino, oxford down, suffolk etc. Wool and sheep fur are usually by-product from meat production. It is good to use everything from the animal, so that nothing goes to waste, but shearing wool is also important to sheep&#8217;s health. Wool keeps growing the whole time. Sheep need to be sheared about twice a year so that fur doesn&#8217;t grow too thick. Overgrown fur turns felt on sheep and becomes heavy. It gets dirty and also lures parasites. At it&#8217;s worst it can pull and stretch skin and cause irritation and skin problems. Every sheep breeds&#8217; got their own kind of wool with different qualities. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Wool consists of undercoat and upper coat. Undercoat is finer and shorter, when upper coat is longer and coarser. different breeds of sheep can have different qualities on upper and under coats. Usually also the lamb fur is softer and more curly than adult sheep. Natural curlyness of the wool fiber makes it good at keeping body warm. Wool has lot of lanonil, natural grease, which is strong allergen. It is excellent emollient, so it&#8217;s commonly used in cosmetics. Allthough the use is slowly dropping due to growing numbers of allergy cases. If  you get rash from wool, the reason could be lanolin. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Textile properties of wool are warmth, breathability, good colour absorption and thermoplasticity. Wool is flexible and soft, it also has natural ability to smooth creases. Thermoplasticity makes it easy to steam and press and create well-fitting garments and dense felt garments. It doesn&#8217;t attract dirt very easily and it&#8217;s also easy to clean. Wool doesn&#8217;t catch fire very easily and flame also tends to go out on it&#8217;s own, so it&#8217;s safer near fire than most synthetic fibers. Wool also absorbs moisture and due to lanolin it also is slightly water-repellent. It also feels warm when damp, unlike cotton. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Despite of many excellent features, wool also has it&#8217;s downfall. It is not very durable, and therefor woolsocks quickly develope holes on the heels. Due to allergens and coarse fibers and sharp fiber ends it irritates the skin. Natural stretch on the fibers creates sagging on knees and elbows and too hot washing temperatures will shrink and felt the wool. It also doesn&#8217;t like sunlight, which turns it yellow and affects the colours. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"1023\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool3.jpg?resize=800%2C1023\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-17000\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool3.jpg?w=800 800w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool3.jpg?resize=235%2C300 235w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool3.jpg?resize=156%2C200 156w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool3.jpg?resize=768%2C982 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><strong>L\u00e4helt\u00e4 katsoessa villassa erottuu selkeit\u00e4 karvoja. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 meleeratussa tekstiiliss\u00e4 karvat on helppo erottaa. Villassa on my\u00f6s sille tyypillist\u00e4 himme\u00e4\u00e4 kiiltoa. T\u00e4m\u00e4 on vaaleanharmaan talvitakkini harvaa ja karkeaa villakangasta jota en kest\u00e4 pit\u00e4\u00e4 lainkaan kaulaani vasten. Joudun k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n takin alla aina huivia kaulan ihoa suojaamassa. \/<br><em>In close inspection wool always has individual hairs on it. This mottled textile you can see the individual hair quite easily. Wool also has natural sheen on it. This light gray winter coat has rather loose woven and coarse wool, which I can&#8217;t keep against my skin. I always have to wear a scarf to protect the skin of my neck. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Manufacturing<\/strong><br>Making wool yarn is pretty simple. In all it&#8217;s simplicity wool is sheared, sorted according to quality, washed, carded, spun into yarn and woven into fabric. In practice, however, there are other phases, like dyeing. You can buy wool in pretty much any colour of the rainbow, because it is easy to dye. Even home dying is easy. Wool is also sold in natural shades like variety of whites, grays, browns, blackish browns and blacks. Wool can also be treated with Superwash-treatment which then allows you to wash it by machine. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Maintenance<\/strong><br>Wool is often considered tricky material to maintain, but that is not really true. Wool is dirt-repellent and dirt comes off easy. Often airing it outside on hanger is enough. Wool is prone to felting, which probably makes people to think it&#8217;s tricky. However you can avoid that by remembering that felting requires warmth, alkali detergent and mechanical work. Wool can handle even quite hot temperatures without felting (for example when dying), as long as it&#8217;s done slowly and wool is not heavily worked mechanically. Wool is best to wash with special wool detergent by hand, or in machine with wool program. It is best to wash and rinse wool in 30 degrees of Celcius, especially if you don&#8217;t have time for slow temperature rise and cool down period. Wool does not require washing very often though. Wool has the ability to smoothen out itself, but ironing with low temperature and with steam is also ok. However wool does easily get shine from ironing, so it&#8217;s best done either through ironing cloth or on reverse side. Often steaming is enough so iron doesn&#8217;t even have to touch the material. Wool can also be refreshened with snow wash. It is a bit more gentle on the material than regular wash. You can find instructions for snow wash in <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13352\" target=\"_blank\">my blog, here<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>EDIT &#8211; I almost forgot one important thing. One downside for wool, it being animal fiber, is that it&#8217;s prone to pest damage.  While storing, wool might get eaten by common house pests like moth, larder beetle or fur beetle (attagenus woodroffei, beetles that eat fur and wool). For this reason, wool clothes and textiles should be aired and checked regularly. You can also protect garments woth red cedar blocks and lavender scent pouches or store them in tight plastic boxes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Identification<\/strong><br>There are available different wool qualities, based on breed, animal age, location of the wool on the animal. Sheared wool is sorted by finess and cleanliness. The dirtiest and most felted wool is not made into textiles, but used as fertiliser and stuff like that. Finests of wools are made into thin summer quality wool fabric, which feel also soft on the skin. These kind of fine wools can look and feel quite silky and it might be very tricky to identify them. However the finests of wools are very expensive, mostly used in fancy men&#8217;s suits, so usually you don&#8217;t really see them in thrift stores. Most commonly you can thrift coarser wools. There are different qualities in carded wool too. For example merino wool is soft, even the coarser qualities. If you have tendency to get itchy from wool, you have better abilities on identifying wool, just by placing it on your neck for moment. This is my guaranteed method of knowing if there is wool on something. My sensitive skin will figure it out quickly. However the best way to identifying wool is the burn test. Animal fibers will burn with small languishing flame. It smells similar to burning hair and leaves ash. Wool is often mixed with synthetic fibers, which you will identify from plasticy lump and little bit of ash.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool4.jpg?resize=768%2C1024\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-17001\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool4.jpg?resize=768%2C1024 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool4.jpg?resize=225%2C300 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool4.jpg?resize=150%2C200 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool4.jpg?resize=630%2C840 630w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool4.jpg?w=800 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><strong>Pinnasta huovutettu villakangas ja villakirjontaa. \/<br><em>Felted wool fabric and wool embroidery.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Other fur and wool imitations<\/strong><br>There are lot of synthetic fibers which imitate wool. Most general replacements are polyacryl, polyester and polyamide. Acryl looks closes to wool, but does not beat the warmth of wool or any other properties for that matter. Because wool is not very durable, polyamide is added to improve the durability. Wool can be most frequently found as all sort of mixes, rather than pure wool. Wool is commonly mixed with synthetic fibers, silk, cotton or viscose. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Usually just the sheep fur is called wool. Other fibers similar to wool are all other animal hair like angora, mohair, alpaca, vicu\u00f1a, cashmere and camel. Angora comes from angora rabbits, mohair comes from angora goats. Angora is very soft and felts very easily, which makes it difficult to spin. Mohair is very long and shiny fibers.  Alpaca, vicu\u00f1a, guanaco and llama are of same family. They give the finest fur in the world. Alpaca is probably familiar to most people, because it has become quite popular as knitting yarn. Guanaco is not very significant to textile industry. Wild vicu\u00f1a are endangered, conservated species, but it is also domesticated in small numbers. Vicu\u00f1a wool is the finest and most expensive wool there is. Cashmere comes from cashmere goats. Perhaps you have heard the story of a fine shawl, which was so thin and fine wool, it was possible to draw the shawl through a ring. This so called ring shawl was assigned by the French empress Eugenia and is said to been made of cashmere. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is very tricky, perhaps even impossible to identify the finer and rarer qualities of wool and fur. Mohair is probably the easiest of these due to very fuzzy look. MOhair is usually only used in mixes. Viscose mixes and popularity of alpaca are making it quite difficult to identify wools these days. Main rule could be that what ever it is, it&#8217;s never vicu\u00f1a or cashmere. Llama is rare on textiles and camel is not very common these days either, except perhaps on older wool coats, you know, those camel-coloured. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Other material guide editions you can find here:<br><strong><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=14916\" target=\"_blank\">Linen<\/a><\/strong><br><strong><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=15229\" target=\"_blank\">Silk<\/a><\/strong><br><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=12085\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Overview<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool5.jpg?resize=768%2C1024\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-17002\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool5.jpg?resize=768%2C1024 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool5.jpg?resize=225%2C300 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool5.jpg?resize=150%2C200 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool5.jpg?resize=630%2C840 630w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool5.jpg?w=800 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><strong>Puuvillaloimeen ohuilla langoilla kudottu villakangas. T\u00e4ss\u00e4kin erottuu hienoinen karvaisuus. \/<br><em>Wool fabric, woven with cotton warp and fine wool. This fabric also has slight furryness to it. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Siit\u00e4 on jo parisen vuotta kun olen viimeksi postannut materiaalien ominaisuuksista ja tunnistamisesta joten lienee paikallaan ottaa t\u00e4h\u00e4n v\u00e4liin yksi sellainen. T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa ajattelin kertoa hiukan yhdest\u00e4 lempimateriaaleistani, villasta. Villaa saadaan erilaisista lammasroduista: suomenlammas, kainuunharmas, merinolammas, oxford down, suffolk jne. Suomessa villa ja lammasturkis ovat yleens\u00e4 lampaanlihan sivutuote. On hyv\u00e4 ett\u00e4 lampaasta k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n hy\u00f6dyksi kaikki&#8230; <\/p>\n<div class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16828\">Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":17001,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"9\/12 Material guide: wool. How to identify and maintain wool fabrics","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[120],"tags":[339,122],"class_list":{"0":"post-16828","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-tekstiileista","8":"tag-christmas-calendar-2022","9":"tag-textiles-and-fabrics","11":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/wool4.jpg?fit=800%2C1067","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-4nq","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16828","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=16828"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16828\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":17018,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16828\/revisions\/17018"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/17001"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=16828"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=16828"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=16828"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}