{"id":16826,"date":"2022-12-14T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-12-14T06:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16826"},"modified":"2022-12-13T23:26:21","modified_gmt":"2022-12-13T21:26:21","slug":"14-12-22-vintageaarre-1920-luvun-pitsimekko-vintage-treasure-1920s-lace-dress","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16826","title":{"rendered":"14\/12-22 Vintageaarre: 1920-luvun pitsimekko \/ Vintage treasure: 1920’s lace dress"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Viime joulukalenterissa taisin mainita ett\u00e4 minusta on tullut n\u00e4emm\u00e4 antiikkitekstiilien ker\u00e4\u00e4j\u00e4. Sain hiljattain kaverilta muutaman vanhan vaatekappaleen joista ajattelin esitell\u00e4 nyt yhden. Leikkausten ja materiaalien perusteella tunnistin sen heti aidoksi 1920-luvun iltapuvuksi. Tuolloin oli tapana tehd\u00e4 l\u00e4pikuultavia pukuja joiden alla k\u00e4ytettiin peitt\u00e4v\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4 alusmekkoa, vaikkakaan ei se niin vakavaa 20-luvulla ollut jos alusvaatteet kuulsivat vaatteiden l\u00e4pi. Ensimm\u00e4inen maailmansota merkitsi emansipaatiota. Naisille avautui uusia ty\u00f6mahdollisuuksia ja uria. Naiset alkoivat n\u00e4hd\u00e4 ja saada muitakin mahdollisuuksia kuin pelk\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n kotona hellan \u00e4\u00e4ress\u00e4 lasten kanssa. Nuoret naiset ottivat itselleen tilaa, hylk\u00e4siv\u00e4t vanhat sovinnaisuusk\u00e4sitykset. He alkoivat kuluttaa entist\u00e4 enemm\u00e4n rahaa my\u00f6s itseens\u00e4 ostamalla muotia, kosmetiikkaa, lehti\u00e4, savukkeita, alkoholia jne. 1920-luvun muodikas nuori nainen, ns. flapper k\u00e4ytti juuri polvet peitt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 “lyhytt\u00e4” hametta jonka vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6linja oli v\u00e4lj\u00e4 ja laskettu lantiolle. H\u00e4nell\u00e4 oli p\u00e4\u00e4nmy\u00f6t\u00e4isen lainekampauksen peittona tyylik\u00e4s l\u00e4hes lierit\u00f6n kupuhattu, rennosti yhdell\u00e4 tai kahdella napilla suljettu v\u00e4lj\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4llystakki. Huulipunaa ja puuteria oli muodikasta lis\u00e4t\u00e4 julkisella paikalla, ennenh\u00e4n se olisi ollut skandaali. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

No, tuo kuvaus flapperista sopii enemm\u00e4nkin amerikkalaisiin naisiin, Suomessa oltiin todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isesti p\u00e4\u00e4osin maltillisempia ja sovinnaisempia. Aiempiin vuosikymmeniin verrattuna t\u00e4m\u00e4 l\u00e4pikuultava pitsi ja silkkisifonki- ja -satiinimekko on melko rohkea, mutta kuitenkin moniin aikakauden iltapukuihin ja “bilemekkoihin” verrattuna aika maltillinen. Puvun alla on mustasta silkkisatiinista ja ihonv\u00e4risest\u00e4 silkkisifongista tehty aluspuku. Yl\u00e4osan herkk\u00e4 silkkisifonki on valitettavasti hien, ihosta irtoavien rasvojen ja puhtaasti ajan vaikutuksesta l\u00e4hes kokonaan h\u00e4vinnyt. J\u00e4ljell\u00e4 on en\u00e4\u00e4 riekaleita ja k\u00e4denteiden kaunis kapea koristeommel. Valitettavasti puku on mallinukelleni melko reilu joten se ei oikein tule t\u00e4ss\u00e4 oikeuksiinsa vaikka puvun on tarkoituskin olla melko v\u00e4lj\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00e4j\u00e4lleen. Aluspuvun leikkaus on t\u00e4ysin suora, vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4 ei ole muotolaskoksia eik\u00e4 rinnan kohdalla rintamuotolaskoksia. Lantiolle tai hivenen lantion alle on kuitenkin ommeltu noin 5 cm syv\u00e4t laskokset joiden on tarkoitus antaa sivuille runsautta. T\u00e4m\u00e4 tyyli, kuten hyvin monet vanhat vintagemallit, oli my\u00f6skin siit\u00e4 k\u00e4tev\u00e4 ett\u00e4 arvokkaasta silkkisatiini-kankaasta ei j\u00e4\u00e4nyt hukkapaloja. Se k\u00e4ytettiin hulpiosta hulpioon. Leikkaus j\u00e4ljittelee nk. “tunnin mekkoa”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Peitt\u00e4v\u00e4mm\u00e4n aluspuvun p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 on t\u00e4ysin eri kuosiin ommeltu silkkipitsinen p\u00e4\u00e4llyspuku. Kangas on aivan k\u00e4sitt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4n upea kukkapitsi, jonka reunat on kudottu kuviota my\u00f6t\u00e4ileviksi. Alus- ja p\u00e4\u00e4llyspuku ovat olleet p\u00e4\u00e4ntielt\u00e4 ommeltuna yhteen. Siit\u00e4 kertovat pitsipuvun p\u00e4\u00e4ntiell\u00e4 n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t silkkisifongin riekaleet. Pitsipuvussa on pitk\u00e4t hihat joissa on leve\u00e4t kalvosimet. Ne on suljettu pikkuruisin nepparein. Olalla on pikkuruiset rypytyslangat jotka olivat tyypillisi\u00e4 naisten vaatteissa aina 40-50-luvuille asti. Niill\u00e4 saatiin aikaan tilaa rinnan kohdalle ja voitiin v\u00e4ltt\u00e4\u00e4 muotolaskosten ompelu. Lantion alapuolella on leve\u00e4 vy\u00f6m\u00e4inen kaistale jonka alareunaan on ommeltu er\u00e4\u00e4nlainen volanki. Volanki on hyvin kevyesti laskostettu edest\u00e4 ja takaa, mutta sivuilla on runsaammat laskokset. Sivuille on my\u00f6skin muotoiltu helman alareunaan kulma, jollaiset olivat 20-luvulla tyypillisi\u00e4 erityisesti juuri t\u00e4llaisissa volangeissa tai muissa roikkuvissa drapeerauksissa. Puku on melko huonokuntoinen, eik\u00e4 miss\u00e4\u00e4n tapauksessa ole k\u00e4ytt\u00f6kuntoinen. Minusta on kuitenkin kiinnostavaa vain katsella n\u00e4it\u00e4 vanhoja vaatekappaleita. Tutkia saumarakenteita, n\u00e4hd\u00e4 miten vaate oikeasti on toteutettu sata vuotta sitten. <\/p>\n\n\n

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In my last years Christmas calendar I mentioned that it looks like I have turned into antique garment collector. Recently I got couple old clothing pieces from my friend, and I want to show you one of them today. Based on the cut and material choises, I recognised this immediately for authentic 1920’s evening gown or party dress. At that time it was popular to make seethrough dresses with more opaque slip\/underdress. Allthough it wasn’t that serious if underwear showed just a little bit. First World War was kind of new beginning for women, emansipation. New work opportunities and careers opened up for women. Women started see and get other options than just staying at home with kids. Young women took space, abandoned the old dusty ideals. They started spending more money also to themselves by buying fashion, cosmetics, magazines, cigarettes, alcohol and so on. Fashionable young women in the 1920’s, so called flapper wore loose “short” skirts, covering just barely their knees, with dropped waistline. She had streamlined wave hairdo and cloche covering it so deep they could barely see. Their coats were loose, closed casually with just one or two buttons. It was fashionable to add more facial powder or lipstick in public, when in previous times wearing make up at all was a small scandal. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Well, that description of a flapper suits better to Americans. In Finland people were probably more modest and conventional. Compared to earlier decades, this sheer lace, silk chiffon and silk satin gown is quite bold, but compared to some other evening gown and party dresses of the 20’s it’s still relatively moderate. Underdress is made of black silk satin and nude silk chiffon. Delicate silk chiffon top of the underdress is unfortunately almost completely disintegrated due to sweat, skin oils and the time. The only bits left is the delicate simple decorative stitching on the armcye and some shattered small pieces. Unfortunately dress is quite large for the mannequin, so it is not very well displayed here, however it is supposed to be relatively loose cut. The cut of the underdress is straight, there is no darts on the waist nor bust. There is about five centimeter pleat on either side though. They are suppose to give some fullness to the skirt sides. This, like many other vintage styles, was pretty handy because it is zero-waste cut. So it did not waste any of the expensive silk satin. Cut is also a variation of the famous “one hour dress”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ontop of this opaque underdress is sheer lace dress in completely different cut. Fabric is unbelievably beautifull floral silk lace. Edges of the lace has been woven to follow the pattern on the lace. Under- and top dress have been sewn together at the neckline. This is revealed by the small shreds of silk chiffon at the lace dress neckline. Lace dress has long sleeves with wide cuffs. Those are closed with tiny little snap buttons. There are small shirring on the shoulders. That was very typical style all the way to the 40’s-50’s. It gave more space for the bust without having to sew darts. Below the hips is wide, beltlike strip and on the edge of that has been sewn flounce. The flounce is just slightly pleated in front and back and more voluminously pleated on sides. The sides of the flounce are shaped pointy. That was typical design on flounces and loose drapes in the 1920’s. Unfortunately dress in in poor condition and by no means wearable. However I find it interesting just to look at these old clothes. To study the seam structures, see how garments really were made hundred years ago. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Viime joulukalenterissa taisin mainita ett\u00e4 minusta on tullut n\u00e4emm\u00e4 antiikkitekstiilien ker\u00e4\u00e4j\u00e4. Sain hiljattain kaverilta muutaman vanhan vaatekappaleen joista ajattelin esitell\u00e4 nyt yhden. Leikkausten ja materiaalien perusteella tunnistin sen heti aidoksi 1920-luvun iltapuvuksi. Tuolloin oli tapana tehd\u00e4 l\u00e4pikuultavia pukuja joiden alla k\u00e4ytettiin peitt\u00e4v\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4 alusmekkoa, vaikkakaan ei se niin vakavaa 20-luvulla ollut jos alusvaatteet kuulsivat vaatteiden l\u00e4pi…. <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":17065,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"14\/12 100 years old silk lace dress","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[150,35],"tags":[151,235],"class_list":{"0":"post-16826","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-pukuhistoria","8":"category-vintage","9":"tag-costume-history","10":"tag-vintage","12":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/20luvunpitsipuku5.jpg?fit=800%2C1067","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-4no","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16826","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=16826"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16826\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":17071,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16826\/revisions\/17071"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/17065"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=16826"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=16826"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=16826"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}