{"id":16322,"date":"2021-12-30T19:04:28","date_gmt":"2021-12-30T17:04:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16322"},"modified":"2021-12-30T19:04:28","modified_gmt":"2021-12-30T17:04:28","slug":"diy-kolmen-sauman-sisatossut-three-seam-slippers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16322","title":{"rendered":"DIY: Kolmen sauman sis\u00e4tossut \/ Three seam slippers"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Joulukuun alun kovat pakkaset tekiv\u00e4t selv\u00e4ksi, ett\u00e4 tarvitsen jonkinlaiset sis\u00e4tossut. Lattiamme ovat nimitt\u00e4in melko vetoiset. K\u00e4ytettyn\u00e4 hankitut huopatohvelit<\/strong><\/a> on korjattu jo kertaalleen. Paikkaus ei valitettavasti kest\u00e4nyt kovin pitk\u00e4\u00e4n ja nyt niiss\u00e4 on jo uudet rei\u00e4t. Lis\u00e4ksi niiss\u00e4 on se vika ett\u00e4 eiv\u00e4t suojaa nilkkoja. Vaikka k\u00e4yt\u00e4n villasukkia p\u00e4ivitt\u00e4in, jopa useampia p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4in, nilkkani tahtovat silti k\u00e4rsi\u00e4 vedosta. Siksi tarvitsin sis\u00e4tossut jotka suojaisivat my\u00f6s nilkkaa. En ole ehtinyt muuton j\u00e4lkeen ompelemaan juuri mit\u00e4\u00e4n, pieni\u00e4 korjaushommia lukuunottamatta, mutta v\u00e4lip\u00e4ivin\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4tin nyt ottaa t\u00e4m\u00e4n tohvelihomman haltuun. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Est\u00e4\u00e4kseni vedon tunnetta valitsin materiaaliksi turkiksen josta ei tuule l\u00e4pi. T\u00e4ydellinen materiaali l\u00f6ytyi omista jemmoista. Materiaalista kiit\u00e4n entist\u00e4 ty\u00f6huonekaveriani Leeaa joka j\u00e4tti rapakon taa muuttaessaan j\u00e4lkeens\u00e4 vintage-lammasturkin j\u00e4m\u00e4n jonka pistin talteen. Vanhan turkiksen uudelleenk\u00e4ytt\u00f6 on ekologista. Tasaisen sile\u00e4ksi ja kuohkeaksi trimmattu mouton (= lammasturkis joka on suoristettu ja leikattu muistuttamaan majavanturkkia) on pehme\u00e4 ja l\u00e4mmin tohvelimateriaali. Materiaaliksi voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6s paksua villakangasta, tekoturkista tai mit\u00e4 tahansa muuta napakkaa, tukevaa ja l\u00e4mmint\u00e4 materiaalia. Joustavat materiaalit vaativat vuorittamisen. Tohveleihin tarvitaan vain kolme saumaa, joten niiden ompelu on helppoa ja ne valmistuvat 1-2 illassa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Harsh cold weather in the beginning of December made it clear that I need some sort of slippers at home. Our floors are quite drafty. I have already repaired my second-hand felted slippers<\/strong><\/a> once. Unfortunately it wasn’t very longlasting repair and they already have new holes. They also have one flaw, they don’t protect ankles at all. Even though I wear wool socks every day, several ontop each other, my ankles are suffering from draft. For that reason I needed slippers which protect also ankles. I haven’t had time to do any sewing, except couple small repear jobs, but now I finally decided to tackle this slipper business. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

To prevent the draft I chose to make slippers from fur. I even had perfect material in my stash already. This material I have to thank former workroom co-renter Leea. She had this leftover of vintage furcoat, which she left behind when she moved to America. I put it in my stash of materials for later use, re-purposing old furcoat is ecological too. Evenly cut, straightened mouton fur (=sheep, made to look like beaver) is soft and warm material for slippers. You can also use thick wool, faux fur or any other sturdy, thick and warm fabric. Stretchy materials require lining. These slippers only have three seams, so they are easy to sew and can be done in 1-2 evenings. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kaava<\/strong>
Piirr\u00e4 kaava oman jalkasi mukaan. Et tarvitse kaavapaperia, kaavan voi piirt\u00e4\u00e4 tussilla vaikka postiluukusta putkahtaneeseen mainokseen. Jos k\u00e4yt\u00e4t materiaalina tekoturkista tai aitoa turkista, muista j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4n reilummin v\u00e4ljyytt\u00e4 ettei tossu purista. Esim pohjassa puoli sentti\u00e4 joka puolelle jalkaa lienee riitt\u00e4v\u00e4. Liian pieni tossu kuluu my\u00f6s nopeammin. Tossu koostuu kolmesta osasta: pohjasta, jalkater\u00e4n p\u00e4\u00e4lliosasta ja varresta. P\u00e4\u00e4lliosan ja varren kaavat saat asettelemalla paperia jalkasi ymp\u00e4ri. Varresta ei kannata tehd\u00e4 liian tiukkaa jotta tossut on helppo pukea. J\u00e4t\u00e4 varren etuosaan kaareva aukko jalkater\u00e4\u00e4 varten. Muista my\u00f6s t\u00e4sm\u00e4t\u00e4 yhteen liitett\u00e4vien osien saumojen pituus. Jalkater\u00e4n p\u00e4\u00e4lliosan sauman tulee olla saman pituinen kuin varren kaareva kohta johon p\u00e4\u00e4lliosa kiinnittyy. Samoin varren kantaosan ja jalkater\u00e4n p\u00e4\u00e4lliosan ymp\u00e4ryys tulee olla samanpituinen kuin pohjan ymp\u00e4rysmitta. Suunnittelin omiin tossuihini melko korkean varren jonka voi halutessaan k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00e4\u00e4 taitteelle, siksi varsi levenee v\u00e4h\u00e4n yl\u00f6sp\u00e4in.

Pattern<\/em><\/strong>
Draft the pattern from your own foot. You don’t need tracing paper, you can draw it with marker even on newspaper or add. If you are using faux or real fur, remember to add little bit of ease so that slippers are not too tight. For example 0,5 cm on each side on the sole should be enough. Too small slipper will also wear off faster. Slippers will have three pieces: sole, upper and shaft. You will get the upper and shaft by wrapping paper around your foot and ankle. Don’t make the shaft too tight, so that the slippers are easy to wear. <\/em> Leave arch-shaped hole on the front of the shaft for your foot. Remember also to match the seams. Upper seam edge must the the same length than shaft arch. Combined shaft heel and upper must be the same circumference than sole circumference. I wanted to have quite high sharf so that I can wear it either up or folded down. For that reason shaft is slightly wider at the top. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Merkitse kaavoihin keskietu (jalkater\u00e4n p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 ja varpaissa) ja keskitaka (kantap\u00e4\u00e4n keskikohta). Koska tykk\u00e4\u00e4n n\u00e4emm\u00e4 tehd\u00e4 asioista itselleni hankalia, min\u00e4 en niit\u00e4 merkinnyt. \/
Mark the center front (toes and upper\/shaft front) and center back ( heel). Because I apparently like making things difficult for myself, I didn’t mark them. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Mallikappale<\/strong>
Tee kaavan mukaan koekappale jostakin j\u00e4m\u00e4kankaasta joka vastaa kutakuinkin sit\u00e4 materiaalia josta aiot varsinaiset tossut tehd\u00e4. Koekappaleen perusteella testataan kaavan oikeaa muotoa ja istuvuutta. Helpointa on jos kaavat ovat symmetriset suhteessa keskilinjaan, silloin ei ole v\u00e4li\u00e4 kumpaan tohveliin mink\u00e4kin osan ompelee ja kumpaan jalkaan tohvelit pukee. Sovita mallikappale ja tee kaavaan tarvittavat muutokset. Jos tohveli on kovin suuri, voit ottaa v\u00e4h\u00e4n pois sek\u00e4 pituudesta ett\u00e4 leveydest\u00e4. Jos se tuntuu pienelt\u00e4, lis\u00e4\u00e4 niihin kohtiin joihin tarvitaan lis\u00e4\u00e4. Huomaa ett\u00e4 aitoon turkikseen ei tarvitse j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 saumanvaroja juuri lainkaan, muihin materiaaleihin kannattaa varata noin puolen sentin saumanvarat.

Mockup<\/em><\/strong>
Sew a mockup by using scrap fabric, similar to what you are planning on using for the actual slippers. Mockup is for testing the correct shape of the pattern and fit of the size. It is easiest to make symmetrical patters, so that each half of the pattern pieces are identical. This way it’s easier to sew the pieces together but also easier to wear, when it doesn’t matter which one you wear on each foot. Try the mockup on and make required alterations to the pattern. If it’s very big, you can trim little bit off of length and width. If it’s too small, add more to where needed. Notice that real fur doesn’t really need much seam allowances, other materials require about 0,5 cm seam allowances. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tein mallikappaleen paksuhkosta keittovillaneuloksesta. Kaava oli melko hyv\u00e4 joten en joutunut tekem\u00e4\u00e4n korjauksia juuri lainkaan. \/
I made mockup from thick boiled wool. Pattern was pretty good so I didn’t have to make any alterations. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Leikkaaminen<\/strong>
Kun kaava on valmis, leikkaa osat varsinaisesta materiaalista. Turkista (ja tekoturkistakin) leikataan aina asettamalla kaavat nurjalle puolelle. J\u00e4ljenn\u00e4 kaavat nurjalle kuulak\u00e4rkikyn\u00e4ll\u00e4 tai ohuella tussilla. N\u00e4in varmistetaan ett\u00e4 kappaleet vastaavat kaavojen kokoa ja muotoa. Nuppineuloja aitoon turkikseen ei voi pist\u00e4\u00e4. Turkis kannattaa leikata ter\u00e4v\u00e4ll\u00e4 kirurginveitsell\u00e4 (saa askartelukaupoista ja apteekeista), silloin turkiksen karvat eiv\u00e4t leikkaudu poikki. Mit\u00e4 pidempi karva turkiksessa tai tekoturkiksessa on, sit\u00e4 parempi on k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 veist\u00e4 saksien sijaan. Veitsell\u00e4 leikkaaminen on hitaampaa sill\u00e4 sit\u00e4 ei voi painaa leikkuualustaa vasten samoin kuin esim paperia tai pahvia leikatessa. K\u00e4yt\u00e4 kuitenkin varmuuden vuoksi leikkausalustana paksua pahvia, puulevy\u00e4 tai tarkoitukseen tehty\u00e4 leikkuualustaa p\u00f6yd\u00e4n suojana. Oma kirurginveitseni oli niin tyls\u00e4 ett\u00e4 jouduin t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa leikkaamaan varovasti saksilla. Onneksi karvat olivat t\u00e4ss\u00e4 niin j\u00e4m\u00e4k\u00e4sti pystyss\u00e4 ett\u00e4 eiv\u00e4t juurikaan leikkautuneet poikki. Hy\u00f6dynsin omiin tohveleihini vanhan turkin hihat, ne olivat melko saman levyiset kuin varren kaava.

Cutting<\/em><\/strong>
When patterns are ready, cut the actual pieces. Fur ( and faux fur too) is cut by placing the patterns on reverse side and tracing them with ball pen or fine marker. This way you can make sure the pieces match the pattern in size and shape. You can’t use pins for real fur. It’s best to cut fur with shar surgical knife, so that you don’t cut the fur. The longer the fur is, the better it is to use knife instead of scissors. Cutting with knife is slower, because you can’t press it against the cutting surface the same way than when cutting paper or card. However, use thick cardboard, piece of wood or actual cutting mat underneath to protect the table. My surgical knife was too dull so I had to use scissors, but very carefully so that I didn’t cut the fur by accident. Thankfully it worked out quite well. I utilized the furcoat sleeves for my slippers, they were pretty much the width what I wanted for the shafts. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lammasturkiksen nurjalla puolella oli tuotemerkin leimoja. En antanut niiden h\u00e4irit\u00e4 vaan leikkasin mahdollisimman s\u00e4\u00e4steli\u00e4\u00e4sti. Huomasin kappaleet leikattuani ett\u00e4 toisessa hihasta ottamassani palassa oli turkispuolella pinta repeytynyt irti. Joudun tekem\u00e4\u00e4n siihen paikan jossain vaiheessa. \/
This sheepfur I used had manufacturers hallmarks on the reverse side. They didn’t bother me, I tried cutting as economically as I could. After cutting the pieces I noticed that other sleeve piece had peeled of area on the fur-side. I will have to patch that at some point. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ompelu<\/em><\/strong>
Aito turkis ommellaan k\u00e4sin aivan kappaleiden reunasta tihe\u00e4hk\u00f6in yliluottelupistoin, karvaiset puolet vastakkain. Tehtaassa t\u00e4t\u00e4 varten olisi oma kone, turkiskone, joka ompelee aivan ohutta saumaa noin parin millin saumanvaralla. Jos nahka on paksua, saatat tarvita ompelua varten nahkaneulan, jossa on kolmiomainen k\u00e4rki. Se l\u00e4vist\u00e4\u00e4 nahan helpommin kuin tavallinen neula. Itse k\u00e4ytin ompeluun tavallista ohuehkoa parsinneulaa koska se tuntui menev\u00e4n melko helposti l\u00e4pi. Langaksi k\u00e4y karhunlanka tai muu tukeva, paksuhko ompelulanka. \u00c4l\u00e4 k\u00e4yt\u00e4 tavallista koneompelulankaa sill\u00e4 se kuluu helposti poikki.

Apuv\u00e4linein\u00e4 kannattaa k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 neulan l\u00e4pi painamiseen sormustinta ja\/tai ompeluk\u00e4dess\u00e4 vanhaa nahkahanskaa jolloin neulaa on helpompi vet\u00e4\u00e4 l\u00e4pi materiaalista. Tossujen on tarkoitus olla jalkaa vasten pehme\u00e4t, t\u00e4st\u00e4 syyst\u00e4 karvat ovat sis\u00e4\u00e4np\u00e4in ja saumat j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t n\u00e4kyviin ulkopuolelle. Ty\u00f6nn\u00e4 ommellessa karvat pois reunojen v\u00e4list\u00e4, jotta ne eiv\u00e4t j\u00e4\u00e4 t\u00f6rr\u00f6tt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n saumaan. Ensin ommellaan jalkater\u00e4n p\u00e4\u00e4lliosa varren kaareen. T\u00e4m\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen ommellaan varren takasauma. Itse k\u00e4ytin varsiin hihat enk\u00e4 siksi joutunut ompelemaan varren takasaumaa. Kiinnitin jalkater\u00e4osan suoraan valmiiseen varteen.

Lopuksi ommellaan pohjat kiinni tohveleiden p\u00e4\u00e4lliosaan. Ompelua helpottamaan suosittelen merkitsem\u00e4\u00e4n pohjakappaleisiin keskietu- ja keskitakamerkit ja vastaavat kohdat jalkater\u00e4\u00e4n ja kantaan. Lis\u00e4ksi voi merkit\u00e4 pohjan molemmille sivuille p\u00e4\u00e4lliosan saumakohdat. Koska turkikseen ei voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 nuppineuloja, kannattaa kappaleet kiinnitt\u00e4\u00e4 ompelua varten yhteen esim tilkkuty\u00f6klipsein tai klemmarein. Jos ompelet tohvelit kankaasta, k\u00e4yt\u00e4 ompeluun tihe\u00e4\u00e4 siksakia tai saumuriommelta. Voit j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 n\u00e4m\u00e4 saumat my\u00f6s ulkopuolelle tai vaihtoehtoisesti k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00e4\u00e4 ne tohveleiden sis\u00e4\u00e4n. Jos haluat saumat sis\u00e4puolelle, huomioi t\u00e4ll\u00f6in ett\u00e4 kappaleet ommellaan yhteen “nurjat puolet” vastakkain. Aidossa turkiksessa varren suuta ei tarvitse huolitella, mutta jos k\u00e4yt\u00e4t kangasta, ompele reunaan p\u00e4\u00e4rme tai huolittele se kanttinauhalla, n\u00e4in se ei p\u00e4\u00e4se liestym\u00e4\u00e4n.

Sewing<\/em><\/strong>
Real fur is sewn by hand very close to the edge with moderately small overcast stitches, fur sides against each other. In the factory they would have machine to do this, which creates very fine couple millimeter seam. If leather on the fur is very thick, you might need leather needle for sewing. It has special triangular tip and it goes through leather easier than ordinary needle. I used traditional, relatively thin, darning needle because it seemed to go through quite easily. For thread I chose extra strong thread, which is called bear thread here in Finland. I think Bear is brand name, but I am pretty sure you can find other brands too, just make sure it’s extra strong. Do not use regular machine sewing thread, that wears too fast. <\/em>

You can also use thimble and\/or old leather glove to press the needle through the leather. With leather glove it’s also easier to pull needle out on the other side. These slippers are suppose to be soft against your feet, so seam allowances s are going to be outside. Push the fur away from the seam, that way you get neat seam. First seam is the upper to the shaft arch. After this is the back seam of the shaft. I used fur coat sleeves, so didn’t have to sew the back seam at all. So I was able to just sew the upper to the ready-made shaft. <\/em>

Finally you sew the soles to the uppers. To make it easier to sew, I recommend to mark the center front and center back to all pieces. It’s also handy to mark on both sides of the sole the seam that connects the upper and shaft. Because you can’t use pins for fur and leather, you can attach the parts together with quilting clips or paper clips. If you are making fabric slippers, use zigzag or overlock-seam. In this case you can also leave the seams allowances on the outside or optionally put them inside the slippers. In this case, notice that you have to sew “wrong sides” towards eachother. When using real fur you don’t have to trim the edge of the shaft, but when using fabric I highly recommend trimming it with folded seam or separate trim. This prevents the fabric from unraveling. <\/em>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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K\u00e4sin ommeltu sauma on vain muutamia millej\u00e4 leve\u00e4. Karvat silotetaan kappaleiden v\u00e4liss\u00e4 reunoista poisp\u00e4in. Lankaa ei saa kirist\u00e4\u00e4 liikaa jotta sauma ei ala kupruilla eik\u00e4 pehme\u00e4 nahka repe\u00e4. \/
Handsewn seam is only couple millimeters wide. Smooth fur away from the edges between the pieces. Don’t pull the thread too hard, otherwise the seam starts puckering and leather might rip if it’s soft. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Valmista<\/strong>
Pehme\u00e4t kotitossut ovat valmiit. Hurraa-huuto l\u00e4mpimille jaloille! Tossuista tuli ihanan pehme\u00e4t ja l\u00e4mpim\u00e4t. Ne ovat my\u00f6s villasukkia parempi vaihtoehto puulattioilla k\u00e4velemiseen, sill\u00e4 ne eiv\u00e4t ole liukkaat kuten villasukat tahtovat olla. Jos tekisin tossut toistamiseen, pienent\u00e4isin kaavaa ihan himppasen sill\u00e4 nyt ne tuntuvat k\u00e4velless\u00e4 valuvan v\u00e4h\u00e4n.
Lis\u00e4huomiona viel\u00e4 ett\u00e4 jos teet tossut aidosta turkiksesta \u00e4l\u00e4 valitse materiaaliksi kaniturkista sill\u00e4 se ei kest\u00e4 kulutusta, kest\u00e4vin valinta on luultavasti lammas. N\u00e4iden tossujen hyv\u00e4 puoli on ett\u00e4 niihin voi my\u00f6s vaihtaa uuden pohjan kun vanha kuluu. Kun s\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4t kaavan ja loput j\u00e4m\u00e4materiaalit, voit tehd\u00e4 tossuihin l\u00e4hes rajattomasti uusia pohjia. Kangastossuihin voi my\u00f6s tehd\u00e4 ulkopohjat nahanpaloista tai vaikka farkusta. Muistaakseni saatavissa on my\u00f6s kumimaista liukuestemaalia jolla voi kangaspohjiin maalata liukuesteet kuten lasten jarrusukissa.

Finished<\/em><\/strong>
And there you have it, soft home slippers are ready. Hurrah for warm feet! They feel so soft and warm. They are also better option than wool socks (which I love) when walking on wood floors, because wool socks always feel slippery If I would make another pair, I would make pattern just a tad smaller, because now the slippers feel sliding a bit when walking.
Additional note that if you are using real fur, don’t choose rabbit fur, because it is not very durable. I think sheep fur is probably the best choice. Good thing about these slippers is that you can also replace the sole when it wears off. If you save the pattern and what ever is leftover from the material, you can make numerous new soles. For fabric slippers you can also make leather soles or sturdier outsole, for example from jeans fabric. If I remember correctly there are also available rubbery paint you can create grip-soles for fabric. Little bit like in kids grip-socks. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Eiv\u00e4th\u00e4n n\u00e4m\u00e4 nyt mitk\u00e4\u00e4n erityisen kauniit ole, mutta ovat kuitenkin ihanan l\u00e4mpim\u00e4t kotona k\u00f6p\u00f6ttelyyn. \/
Well, they aren’t exactly the most beautifull slippers you ever see, however they are so warm to lounge at home. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Joulukuun alun kovat pakkaset tekiv\u00e4t selv\u00e4ksi, ett\u00e4 tarvitsen jonkinlaiset sis\u00e4tossut. Lattiamme ovat nimitt\u00e4in melko vetoiset. K\u00e4ytettyn\u00e4 hankitut huopatohvelit on korjattu jo kertaalleen. Paikkaus ei valitettavasti kest\u00e4nyt kovin pitk\u00e4\u00e4n ja nyt niiss\u00e4 on jo uudet rei\u00e4t. Lis\u00e4ksi niiss\u00e4 on se vika ett\u00e4 eiv\u00e4t suojaa nilkkoja. Vaikka k\u00e4yt\u00e4n villasukkia p\u00e4ivitt\u00e4in, jopa useampia p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4in, nilkkani tahtovat silti k\u00e4rsi\u00e4… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":16329,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"DIY: Warmest slippers you will ever have","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[8,27,26,7,13],"tags":[232,104,332,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-16322","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-diy","8":"category-evilompelee","9":"category-kierratys-ja-kirppis","10":"category-projektit","11":"category-vaatehtimo","12":"tag-diy","13":"tag-projects","14":"tag-repurposing","15":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","17":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/turkistossut6.jpg?fit=800%2C1067","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-4fg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16322","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=16322"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16322\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16336,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16322\/revisions\/16336"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/16329"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=16322"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=16322"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=16322"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}