{"id":16187,"date":"2021-12-19T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2021-12-19T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16187"},"modified":"2021-12-17T21:15:00","modified_gmt":"2021-12-17T19:15:00","slug":"19-12-21-antiikkikotitakki-antique-home-coat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=16187","title":{"rendered":"19\/12-21 Antiikkikotitakki \/ Antique home coat"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Yhdistetty Vintage-aarre ja Tunnista vintage-postaussarjojen osa esittelee t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa jo antiikin puolelle menev\u00e4n vaateaarteen. Kyseess\u00e4 on reilu vuosi sitten ostamani 1800-luvun lopun villainen kotitakki tai aamutakki. Ostin t\u00e4m\u00e4n er\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4 tutulta, mutta en ollut oikein tyytyv\u00e4inen kauppoihin. H\u00e4n j\u00e4tti kuvailematta miten huonokuntoinen vaate todellisuudessa on kyseess\u00e4. Ajattelin nimitt\u00e4in, ett\u00e4 t\u00e4t\u00e4 olisi ehk\u00e4 voinut k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 valokuvissa poseeraukseen tai muuhun, jossa ei kovin tarvitse liikuskella. Vaate on kyll\u00e4kin sen verran huonokuntoinen ja hauras ett\u00e4 en ole arvannut edes sovittaa sit\u00e4. Joten n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4n sille ett\u00e4 se j\u00e4\u00e4 puhtaasti “tutkimusk\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n” eli ihailtavaksi mallinukella ja rakenteiden ja ompelutekniikoiden mallikappaleeksi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kangas on ohuinta villaa jota olen ikin\u00e4 n\u00e4hnyt. Siihen on painettu upean yksityiskohtainen raidallinen kukkakuosi. Miehusta on vuoritettu ruudullisella kankaalla, joka sekin on \u00e4lytt\u00f6m\u00e4n ohutta. Kuten kotitakilta voi odottaakin, malli on hyvin yksinkertainen A-linjainen, takaa pidempi. Hihat ovat istutetut ja muotoon ommellut kuten ne kaikki tyypillisesti olivat ennen 1900–lukua. Sen verran tutkin aamutakkien mallia ett\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4 saattaisi olla per\u00e4ti 1870-luvulta, mutta ihan 100% varma en asiasta ole. Koristeena takissa on ruskeasta villakankaasta ommellut leve\u00e4t koristenauhat etureunassa, helmassa ja hihansuissa. Etureunassa on napinl\u00e4vet mutta napit on poistettu. Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6ll\u00e4 on napinl\u00e4viss\u00e4 pidempi v\u00e4li joka viittaa siihen ett\u00e4 takkiin on kuulunut alunperin vy\u00f6. Oikealla k\u00e4dell\u00e4 on j\u00e4nnitt\u00e4v\u00e4n muotoinen pikkutasku. Sinne mahtuu korkeintaan nen\u00e4liina ja pieni kampa. Kaikkein suloisin yksityiskohta on kuitenkin hihat miehustaan kiinnitt\u00e4v\u00e4n sauman pikkiriikkinen noin 1-2 millin levyinen tere! Vaatteen jokaikinen sauma on ommeltu k\u00e4sin. K\u00e4sin ommellen tuollainen minikokoinen terekin on mahdollista tehd\u00e4, koneella se olisi paljon vaikeampaa. K\u00e4sin ommellut saumat on yleens\u00e4 my\u00f6s varma merkki siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 vaate on todella vanha. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Oli miten oli, upeahan t\u00e4m\u00e4 on, vaikka kunto olikin pettymys. Kangas on kauttaaltaan haurastunut ja t\u00e4ynn\u00e4 kulumia joissa on j\u00e4ljell\u00e4 vain kankaan loimilangat. Lis\u00e4ksi kankaassa on repe\u00e4mi\u00e4 ja reiki\u00e4, sek\u00e4 haalistumia. Haalistumat ja tavalliset rei\u00e4t eiv\u00e4t sin\u00e4ll\u00e4\u00e4n haittaa, kankaan hauraus on isoin ongelma. Ja pahoittelut taas suttuisista kuvista, se valon puute n\u00e4es. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Today’s combined Vintage Treasure and Identifying vintage showcases today a garment which is not just vintage but antique. It is end of 1800’s housecoat\/dressing gown I bought over a year ago. I bought it from a person I know, but I am not quite satisfied with the purchase. They failed to describe how bad condition this garment is. I was thinking of perhaps using this for a photoshoot or something that requires very little to no moving. However this garment in so fragile I haven’t even dared to try it on. So it seems that it will be purely for “scientific purposes” aka to be admired on the mannequin and study piece for construction and sewing techniques.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fabric is finest wool I have ever seen. It’s printed with delightfully detailed striped floral pattern. Bodice is lined with plaid and is also very fine wool. Like can be expected from housecoat or derssing gown, cut is very simple A-line, longer at the back. Sleeves are fitted and curved to match the arm, like they all typically were before 1900’s. I very briefly studied the style of dressing gowns and looks like this style might be even as early as 1870’s, but I am not 100% certain of that. Coat is decorated with wide trims of brown wool on front, hem and sleeves. Front has buttonholes, but buttons have been removed. There is large gap on the button holes at the waist, which means there probably has been belt. There is cute small pocket on right hand side, just big enough for hankerchief and small comb. However the cutest detail of all are tiny little pipings on the seams that connects sleeves to the bodice. Every single seam on this garment are handsewn. These tiny details are possible to make by hand, but much more difficult with a machine. Handsewn seams are usually also guarantee that garment is really old.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is gorgeous piece of clothing, even though the condition was a disappointment. Fabric is worn out all over and is full of worn out areas where there is only warp threads left. There is also tears and holes and faded areas. Faded colours and ordinary holes don’t really bother me, it is the fragile state of the whole fabric which is the biggest problem. And again apologies for bad photos, the lack of proper light you see.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Malli on A-linjainen ja kootaan vy\u00f6ll\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lle.\/
Design is A-shaped and gathered with belt.<\/em> <\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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S\u00f6p\u00f6 pikkutasku. \/
Cute little pocket.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Hiha on k\u00e4sivarren asentoon muotoiltu, eli voimakkaan kaareva, toisin kuin modernit hihat jotka ovat suoria. Nykyisin vain jakkupukuihin ja eritt\u00e4in tiukasti istuviin joustamattomiin juhlapukuihin tehd\u00e4\u00e4n t\u00e4llainen hiha.\/
Sleeve is shaped to match the curve of the arm, so sleeve is very strongly curved. Unlike modern sleeves which are usually straight. Only fitted suits and very fitted non-stretch fancy dresses have sleeves like this.<\/em> <\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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N\u00e4it\u00e4 kulumia koko vaate on t\u00e4ynn\u00e4. \/
Gown is full of these wornout areas. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Valoa vasten tutkiskelu paljastaa heikot kohdat joita on paljon. Helma on vuoritettu noin 15-20 sentin korkeudelta. \/
Against the light you can see all the weak spots, there are loads. Hem is lined about 15-20 cm high lining. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Mikrokokoinen tere, niin s\u00f6p\u00f6! \/
Microsized piping, so cute!<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yhdistetty Vintage-aarre ja Tunnista vintage-postaussarjojen osa esittelee t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa jo antiikin puolelle menev\u00e4n vaateaarteen. Kyseess\u00e4 on reilu vuosi sitten ostamani 1800-luvun lopun villainen kotitakki tai aamutakki. Ostin t\u00e4m\u00e4n er\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4 tutulta, mutta en ollut oikein tyytyv\u00e4inen kauppoihin. H\u00e4n j\u00e4tti kuvailematta miten huonokuntoinen vaate todellisuudessa on kyseess\u00e4. Ajattelin nimitt\u00e4in, ett\u00e4 t\u00e4t\u00e4 olisi ehk\u00e4 voinut k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 valokuvissa poseeraukseen… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":16259,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"19\/12-21 My collection: Antique dressing gown","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[150,13,35],"tags":[151,64,235],"class_list":{"0":"post-16187","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-pukuhistoria","8":"category-vaatehtimo","9":"category-vintage","10":"tag-costume-history","11":"tag-thrift-finds","12":"tag-vintage","14":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/dressinggown8.jpg?fit=800%2C1067","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-4d5","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16187","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=16187"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16187\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16260,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16187\/revisions\/16260"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/16259"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=16187"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=16187"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=16187"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}