{"id":15427,"date":"2020-08-02T14:07:26","date_gmt":"2020-08-02T11:07:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=15427"},"modified":"2020-08-02T14:12:15","modified_gmt":"2020-08-02T11:12:15","slug":"tunnin-mekko-one-hour-dress","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=15427","title":{"rendered":"Tunnin mekko \/ One hour dress"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ilmassa on aamuisin jo syksyn tuntua, ollaanhan jo elokuussa, mutta piti silti viel\u00e4 tehd\u00e4 kes\u00e4mekko. En ole aikoihin saanut yht\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n arkik\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n ompelemaani vaatetta valmiiksi. Into ja energia on lopahtanut alkutekij\u00f6ihins\u00e4 ja keskener\u00e4isten kasa sen kuin kasvaa kasvamistaan. Silti vaatekaappi huutaa t\u00e4ydennyst\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Olen pitk\u00e4\u00e4n jo (sanon t\u00e4t\u00e4 n\u00e4emm\u00e4 tosi usein!)<\/strong> suunnitellut kokeilevani ommella 1920-luvulla suosittua “tunnin mekkoa”. Ohjeen mukaan sen pit\u00e4isi olla niin yksinkertainen ommella, ett\u00e4 se valmistuu tunnissa. Ehk\u00e4 sopivan nopea valmistaa t\u00e4llaiselle keskener\u00e4isi\u00e4 t\u00f6it\u00e4 haalivalle? Vaate koostuu yhdest\u00e4 ainoasta kaavan osasta, joka leikataan kahtena kappaleena. 1920-luvulla kudotut kankaat olivat yleens\u00e4 vain noin 75-100 sentti\u00e4 leveit\u00e4, joten vaatteeseen k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n koko kankaanleveys. Parhaiten mallissa toimivat pehme\u00e4sti laskeutuvat, ei kovin paksut tai j\u00e4yk\u00e4t kankaat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sattumoisin l\u00f6ysin maanantaina Nextiilist\u00e4 kolme metri\u00e4 t\u00e4ydellist\u00e4 kes\u00e4mekkokangasta. Se maksoi aivan k\u00e4sitt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4t 1,80\u20ac. Kangas on juuri sellaista vanhaa kapeaa puuvillaa jota halusinkin t\u00e4h\u00e4n tunnin mekkoon. Oletin kankaan olevan 100% puuvillaa, mutta siit\u00e4 kuuluu k\u00e4sitelt\u00e4ess\u00e4 hassu vaimea kahina ja auringonpaisteessa n\u00e4kyy v\u00e4h\u00e4n kiiltoa. Polttokoetta en ole tehnyt, mutta ensimm\u00e4isen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6kerran l\u00e4mpim\u00e4n\u00e4 kes\u00e4p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 mekko tuntui aika mukavalta p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u00e4h\u00e4n vaatteeseen<\/a> harvoin annetaan mit\u00e4\u00e4n kovin tarkkoja valmistusohjeita. Vanhat ompeluohjeet ovat usein sellaisia, v\u00e4h\u00e4n ylimalkaisia. Oletettiin ett\u00e4 kaikki olivat jo oppineet ompelun perusasiat \u00e4idilt\u00e4\u00e4n. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 kuitenkin suusananllinen ompeluohje vaatteen kasaamiseen, kun en taaskaan tajunnut mit\u00e4\u00e4n vaihekuvia ottaa. Leikkuuohje on kapealle kankaalle. Hauskinta t\u00e4ss\u00e4 mallissa on ett\u00e4 sit\u00e4 voi varioida muuttamalla hihojen pituutta, helman pituutta, miehustan pituutta, p\u00e4\u00e4ntien kokoa, yksityiskohtia jne. Puvun ompeluun meni minulla kauemmin kuin tunti koska ompelin hihansuut, p\u00e4\u00e4ntien sek\u00e4 vy\u00f6n rullap\u00e4\u00e4rmeet k\u00e4sin. Kotiompelukoneeni paininjalka nimitt\u00e4in sanoi sopimuksensa irti kesken ompelun enk\u00e4 jaksanut en\u00e4\u00e4 l\u00e4hte\u00e4 erikseen ty\u00f6huoneelle t\u00e4t\u00e4 viimeistelem\u00e4\u00e4n. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tunnin mekko<\/strong><\/p>

1. Taita kangas kaksinkerroin poikittain ja viel\u00e4 uudelleen kaksinkerroin pitkitt\u00e4in. Neulaa kankaiden hulpiot huolellisesti vastakkain ja varmista ett\u00e4 kangas ei ole j\u00e4\u00e4nyt mist\u00e4\u00e4n mutkalle. N\u00e4in sinulla on nelj\u00e4 kangaskerrosta p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4in ja taite pitk\u00e4ll\u00e4 sivulla, sek\u00e4 toinen taite lyhyell\u00e4 sivulla. <\/p>

2. Merkitse kankaalle kaavan mukaiset mitat: p\u00e4\u00e4ntien leveys, rinnanymp\u00e4ryys v\u00e4ljyyksineen, lantionymp\u00e4ryys v\u00e4ljyyksineen, hihansuu, helman korkeus\/lantiolinja. Huomioi ett\u00e4 leveysmitat merkit\u00e4\u00e4n kaavaan puolikkaina (puolet kaavaan merkityst\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4ntien mitasta, puolet hartia\/hihaleveydest\u00e4 ja puolet puolikkaista rinta- ja lantiomitoista)<\/strong>. Helman leveys on koko kankaan leveys. HUOM! <\/strong>S\u00e4\u00e4d\u00e4 mittoja omien vartalomittojesi mukaan. Jos olet kovin siro, voit kaventaa hartialinjaa ja hihansuun ymp\u00e4ryytt\u00e4. Jos olet paljon lyhyempi kuin 170 cm, lyhenn\u00e4 sek\u00e4 helmaa ett\u00e4 miehustaa suhteessa muutamia senttej\u00e4. Jos taas olet pidempi, lis\u00e4\u00e4 pituutta. <\/p>

3. Piirr\u00e4 merkint\u00f6jen perusteella kaavan muoto kangasliidulla ja varmista neuloin etteiv\u00e4t kangaskerrokset p\u00e4\u00e4se liikkumaan leikatessa. Kankaalla n\u00e4kyy nyt siis puolikas kaavasta. <\/p>

4. Leikkaa noin sentin saumanvaroin, mutta lis\u00e4\u00e4 helmaan 6-7 cm p\u00e4\u00e4rmett\u00e4 varten. P\u00e4\u00e4ntiet\u00e4 voi avartaa oman maun mukaan. Itse tein t\u00e4llaisen melko korkean ja kapean venep\u00e4\u00e4ntien, josta p\u00e4\u00e4 mahtuu juuri ja juuri ilman ett\u00e4 kangas nuhrautuu meikkiin ja kampaus menee pilalle. P\u00e4\u00e4ntie voi olla siis avarampikin, mutta vaatii silloin erillisen kanttauksen tai alavaran. Muista leikata lantiolla kaavassa n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t pienet kolot ( n. 5 cm) tai viillot jotta rypytyksen ompelu on mahdollista. Hameen liepeet on lis\u00e4ksi t\u00e4ss\u00e4 kaavassa viistottu, jotta helmalinja kohoaisi sivuilta ja muodostaisi pehmeit\u00e4 poimuja. Viistotuksen voi vaihtoehtoisesti j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 pois ja leikata liepeet vaakasuorana. Leikkaa lopuksi helmassa oleva taite auki jos olet k\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt kankaan koko pituudeltaan. <\/p>

5. Ompele ensimm\u00e4isen\u00e4 olkasaumat, miehustan sivusaumat joissa kainalon kaari ja hameen helman sivusaumat. Helman sivusaumoissa pit\u00e4isi olla kankaan hulpiot joten niit\u00e4 ei tarvitse huolitella. Huolittele olka- ja sivusaumat haluamallasi tavalla (saumuri, siksak tms)<\/strong> sek\u00e4 tietysti helman sivut jos k\u00e4ytit leve\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4 kangasta. <\/p>

6. Huolittele hihansuut pienill\u00e4, noin puolen sentin p\u00e4\u00e4rmeill\u00e4 joko k\u00e4sin tai koneella. <\/p>

7. Huolittele venep\u00e4\u00e4ntie pienill\u00e4 puolen sentin p\u00e4\u00e4rmeill\u00e4 jotka kapenevat olkaa kohti. T\u00e4m\u00e4 on helpointa ommella k\u00e4sin. Jos tein isomman py\u00f6re\u00e4n tai jopa V-p\u00e4\u00e4ntien, huolittele p\u00e4\u00e4ntie vinokantilla tai p\u00e4\u00e4ntien muotoisella alavaralla. <\/p>

8. Ompele rypytyslangat miehustan alareunaan molempiin sivuihin, sek\u00e4 hameosan lievereunoihin (kaavassa merkitty katkoviivoin)<\/strong>. Vaihtoehtoisesti miehustan rypytykset voi j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 pois, mutta omasta mielest\u00e4ni se nostaa hametta kivasti sivuilta. <\/p>

9. Kirist\u00e4 ja solmi miehustan rypytyslangat paikoilleen. Ne voi viel\u00e4 halutessaan vahvistaa tukiompeleella jos saattuu ett\u00e4 rypytykset ratkeavat k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4. <\/p>

10. Kirist\u00e4 hameen liepeiden rypytyslangat niin tiukalle ett\u00e4 pituus vastaa miehustan alareunan mittaa. Kohdista liepeet ja miehusta yhteen oikeat puolet vastakkain ja ompele yhteen. Ommel p\u00e4\u00e4ttyy aukon p\u00e4iss\u00e4 kiilamaisesta ehj\u00e4n kankaan reunaan. Rypytysaukon saumanvarat siis kapenevat p\u00e4iss\u00e4 ja lopulta h\u00e4vi\u00e4v\u00e4t kokonaan kun p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n kankaan taitteelle asti. Huolittele rypytyskohdan saumanvara haluamallasi tavalla. <\/p>

11. Ompele helmaan noin 5-6 cm p\u00e4\u00e4rme. Sentin p\u00e4\u00e4rmekin periaatteessa riitt\u00e4\u00e4, mutta hameet yleens\u00e4 laskeutuvat paremmin kun p\u00e4\u00e4rme on reilun levyinen. Kapeat p\u00e4\u00e4rmeet lis\u00e4ksi tahtovat toisinaan k\u00e4pristy\u00e4 yl\u00f6sp\u00e4in. Vaate on nyt valmis<\/p>

Muuta:<\/strong> Halutessasi voit lis\u00e4t\u00e4 esim lantiolle, rypytyksen yl\u00e4puolelle tulevan vy\u00f6n tai olalle ruusukkeen, p\u00e4\u00e4ntielle rusetin tms. yksityiskohtia. Minulla kangasta oli hintsusti, mutta sain siit\u00e4 viel\u00e4 tehty\u00e4 rusetin olalle ja vaakaraitaisen rypytetyn vy\u00f6n, jonka kiinnitin toiseen sivuun ompelemalla ja toiseen sivuun vintage-soljella.
Edistyneemp\u00e4\u00e4n mallin muutokseen: j\u00e4t\u00e4 helmasta rypytykset kokonaan pois, ompele vain koko sivu kulmineen p\u00e4ivineen yhteen ja j\u00e4t\u00e4 roikkumaan huivimaiseksi helmaksi. <\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

There is Autumn in the air in the mornings already, after all it is August already, but I still needed one Summer dress. I haven’t finished any of my ordinary wardrobe sewing for long time. My energy and enthusiasm have ran out in the middle of the sewing and my UFO pile is growing like mad. Still my wardrobe is shouting for refill. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For a long time (I seem to say that a lot!)<\/strong> I have planned to make 1920’s “One hour dress”. According the instructions, it’s supposed to be so simple to sew, it will be finished in an hour. Perhaps suitable for person who seems to collect unfinished projects? Garment is made of just one pattern piece, which is cut two times. In 1920’s fabrics were usually just 75-100 cm wide, so the whole width was used for this garment. Best fabric options would be soft and drapey materials, not very thick or stiff. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

By coincident I found just perfect summer dress fabric on Monday from local recycling center. It cost unbelievably insane 1,80\u20ac. Fabric is exactly what I wanted, old narrow cotton. I assumed it is 100% cotton, but later I noticed it makes very tiny rattling sound and in sun it shimmers ever so sligthly. I haven’t made burn test though, but on the first wear, on warm sunny day it felt pretty comfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

There rarely is any detailed instructions for this kind of dress<\/a>. Old sewing instructions are often quite vague. They just assumed that everybody already knew sewing basics, learned from their mums. Here I give you written instructions, because I didn’t realise I should have taken photos of different phases. Cutting instruction is for narrow vintage fabric. Most fun thing about this pattern is that it is very easy to alter by changing sleeve length, hem length, bodice length, by changing the neckline, changing details and so on. It took me longer than hour to sew this dress, because I hand stitched neckline, armholes and belt. My home sewing machine pedal broke in the middle of sewing, so I had to finish by hand. I could not to be bothered to go to my sewing studio to finish this. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

One hour dress<\/strong><\/p>

1. Fold fabric in half widthwise, and again lengthwise. Pin the edges together neatly and make sure there is no lumps or creases anywhere- Now you have four layers of fabric and one short fold and one long fold. <\/p>

2. Mark all the measurements on the fabric: neckline width, bust width with ease, hip width with ease, sleeve and armhole, hemline and hip hight. Notice that widths are half of what is marked on the pattern picture (half of neckline measurement, half of shoulder\/sleeve width and hips and bust)<\/strong>. Fabric width is the width of the skirt. Notice! <\/strong>Adjust measurements according to your own body. If you are petite, make narrower shoulders and armhole. If you are much shorter than 170 cm, mark shorter hem and bodice length. If you are taller, add length on both. <\/p>

3. Draw pattern lines with tailors chalk and make sure fabric layers are secured with pins and don’t move when cutting. You should now have half of the pattern visible on the fabric. <\/p>

4. Cut the pieces with about 1 cm seam allowances, except hem with 6-7 cm. You can cut the neckline into what shape you like. Mine is quite high but not very wide boat neckline. My head fits through just so that fabric is not stained with makeup and hairdo doesn’t get messy. So you can make larger neckline, but then you need to trim it with either bias binding or facing. Remember also to cut small openings on the hips (about 5 cm long) which are showing on the pattern. This makes sewing the gathering possible. Hem top is angled on this pattern, but it can also be cut straight. Angled top creates soft drapes on the hole hem. Also finish by cutting open the fold on the hem, if you used the whole length of fabric. <\/p>

5. Firstly sew shoulder seams, bodice side seams and under arms and skirt side seams. Skirt sides should not need serging if you used narrower fabric. Trim the seam allowances on shoulders and sideseams to your liking, forexample serger or zigzag. <\/p>

6. Trim armholes with small folds (about 0,5 cm)<\/strong>, either by hand or machine. <\/p>

7. Trim neckline with small 0,5 cm folds, which get narrower towards the sides. This is easier to do by hand. If you made larger round or V-neckline, then use bias binding or facing. <\/p>

8. Sew gathering to the both sides of bodice and skirt top (marked with cut line on the pattern)<\/strong>. Optionally you can leave the bodice gathering off, but in my opinion it does nice lift to the skirt on the sides. <\/p>

9. Gather and tie the bodice gathering. You can also secure it by sewing it in place, this prevents it from opening if threads are accidentally broken in use. <\/p>

10. Gather the skirt sides as long as the length matches the bodice length. Pin the bodice edge and gathered skirt edge together, right sides towards and sew. Seam allowance is about 1 cm in the middle and gets narrower on both ends. Stitching begins and ends on the fabric fold. Trim the seam allowance with your preferred method. <\/p>

11. Finally trim the hemline with about 5-6 cm fold. 1 cm fold is basically enough, but skirt always drapes nicer when the fold is wide. Narrow folds also tend to curl upwards. You now have finished dress. <\/p>

Other:<\/strong> If you like, you can also make belt, which is hanging low on hip, just above the gathering. You can also add corsage to the shoulder or bow to the neckline or other details. I didn’t have much leftover fabric, but just enough for gathered belt. I attached that to one side with stitching and with vintage buckle to the other.
For more advanced alteration: you can leave skirt un-gathered, just sew sides toghether with cornesr and all and leave the sides hanging to create scarf-hem. <\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Mitat ovat senttein\u00e4 ja suuntaa-antavia. Voit muuttaa niit\u00e4 vastaamaan omia mittojasi. Pituusmitat ovat noin 170 cm pitk\u00e4lle henkil\u00f6lle. \/
Measeurements here are centimeters. Thyey are just reference, you can alter them to match your bodymeasurements. This length is works best for about 170 cm tall person. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Vy\u00f6 solkineen. Kangasta oli j\u00e4ljell\u00e4 en\u00e4\u00e4 paloja joten kokosin vy\u00f6n useammasta p\u00e4tk\u00e4st\u00e4. \/
Belt and buckle. I only had small pieces of fabric left, so I made the belt from several shorter bits. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Olalla rusetti, takana n\u00e4kyy hiukan p\u00e4\u00e4ntien olille kapenevaa p\u00e4\u00e4rmett\u00e4. \/
Bow on the shoulder. On the back you can see little bit of the neckline fold which gets narrower towards shoulders. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Vy\u00f6n poimutus sivusaumassa, alapuolella helman rypytys. Miehustan rypytys j\u00e4\u00e4 vy\u00f6n alle. \/
Belt gathering on the side seam. Skirt gathering is below it. Bodice gathering is invisible under the belt. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ilmassa on aamuisin jo syksyn tuntua, ollaanhan jo elokuussa, mutta piti silti viel\u00e4 tehd\u00e4 kes\u00e4mekko. En ole aikoihin saanut yht\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n arkik\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n ompelemaani vaatetta valmiiksi. Into ja energia on lopahtanut alkutekij\u00f6ihins\u00e4 ja keskener\u00e4isten kasa sen kuin kasvaa kasvamistaan. Silti vaatekaappi huutaa t\u00e4ydennyst\u00e4. Olen pitk\u00e4\u00e4n jo (sanon t\u00e4t\u00e4 n\u00e4emm\u00e4 tosi usein!) suunnitellut kokeilevani ommella 1920-luvulla suosittua “tunnin… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":15429,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Unable to finish your sewing projects? Try one hour dress!","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[8,27,26,7,150,13,35],"tags":[186,232,68,126,92,235,284],"class_list":{"0":"post-15427","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-diy","8":"category-evilompelee","9":"category-kierratys-ja-kirppis","10":"category-projektit","11":"category-pukuhistoria","12":"category-vaatehtimo","13":"category-vintage","14":"tag-1920s","15":"tag-diy","16":"tag-outfits","17":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","18":"tag-style","19":"tag-vintage","20":"tag-vintage-style","22":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/onehourdress1.jpg?fit=800%2C1037","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-40P","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15427","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=15427"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15427\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":15440,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15427\/revisions\/15440"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/15429"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=15427"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=15427"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=15427"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}