{"id":15368,"date":"2020-07-06T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2020-07-06T06:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=15368"},"modified":"2020-07-01T21:07:14","modified_gmt":"2020-07-01T18:07:14","slug":"hylkytekstiili-shipwreck-textile","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=15368","title":{"rendered":"Hylkytekstiili \/ Shipwreck textile"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Tiesittek\u00f6, ett\u00e4 Suomesta l\u00f6ytyy yksi maailmanlaajuisestikin harvinainen historiallinen tekstiili. Merimuseossa Kotkassa, Merikeskus Vellamossa, s\u00e4ilytet\u00e4\u00e4n merenpohjasta l\u00f6ytynytt\u00e4 harvinaisuutta, 1700-luvulla uponneen kauppalaivan ruumasta l\u00f6ytynytt\u00e4 tekstiili\u00e4. Kun sanon tekstiili, saatatte ehk\u00e4 kuvitella, ett\u00e4 kyseess\u00e4 on joku melko suuri kangaskappale. Todellisuudessa j\u00e4ljell\u00e4 on en\u00e4\u00e4 pieni\u00e4 paloja. Hylkytekstiilit ovat harvinaisuuksia koska merivesi ja merenpohjan eli\u00f6st\u00f6 tuhoaa kankaat paljon nopeammin kuin muut materiaalit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kauppalaiva Sankt Mikael oli vuonna 1747 matkalla Hollannista Pietariin kun se upposi. Sen ruumassa oli arvokasta ylellisyystavaraa Pietarin hoviin: Meissenin posliinia, arvokkaita kelloja, rattaat Ven\u00e4j\u00e4n keisarinna Elisabetille. Sanomattakin on selv\u00e4\u00e4 ett\u00e4 St Mikael on ollut ja on yksi Suomen tunnetuimmista hylyist\u00e4. Se l\u00f6ydettiin jo 1950-luvulla ja on siit\u00e4 l\u00e4htien kiehtonut tutkijoita. 60-luvulla hylyst\u00e4 nostettiin monenmoista tavaraa jotka ovat nyt n\u00e4ht\u00e4vill\u00e4 Vellamon n\u00e4yttelyss\u00e4. Itse hylky\u00e4 ei ole yritetty nostaa vaikka siit\u00e4kin on ilmeisesti ollut puhetta. Valitettavasti t\u00e4m\u00e4 originaali tekstiili on jo niin huonokuntoinen, ett\u00e4 sit\u00e4 ei voi pit\u00e4\u00e4 esill\u00e4 n\u00e4yttelyss\u00e4. Sit\u00e4 on kuitenkin aikanaan voitu tutkia ja siit\u00e4 tiedet\u00e4\u00e4n, ett\u00e4 se on ollut alunperin silkkinen tikattu alushame, jossa on ollut koristeena helmi\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nykyisin s\u00e4ilyneet palat ovat vain ruskeaa villavanua. Vaikka silkkikangas ja tikkauksen ompeleet ovat jo l\u00e4hes tyystin kadonneet, on vanun pintaan painunut tikkauskuvion pistojen j\u00e4tt\u00e4m\u00e4t j\u00e4ljet. Kankaasta on s\u00e4ilynyt pikkiriikkisi\u00e4 paloja, joista on voitu selvitt\u00e4\u00e4 tarkka tikkauskuvio, kankaiden materiaali ja v\u00e4ri. Kuin ihmeen kaupalla mukana on s\u00e4ilynyt my\u00f6s muutamia pieni\u00e4 helmi\u00e4 joita oli ommeltu ainakin kukkakuvioiden keskustoihin. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vellamossa alkoi viime kev\u00e4\u00e4n\u00e4 ennallistus-projekti, jossa on tarkoitus replikoida osa tuota tikattua hametta. Olin viime kes\u00e4kuussa Vellamossa k\u00e4ym\u00e4ss\u00e4, kun projektia pistettiin alulleen. Materiaaleina ovat villavanu, vaalean siniharmaa historiallisilla tavoilla kudottu silkkitafti ja silkkilanka. 1700-luvun piknik-postauksen yhteydess\u00e4 mainitsin, ett\u00e4 k\u00e4vin my\u00f6s ompelemassa v\u00e4h\u00e4n t\u00e4t\u00e4 ennallistusta. Oli huikeaa n\u00e4hd\u00e4 miten ty\u00f6 oli edistynyt viime vuodesta. Se ei koskaan p\u00e4\u00e4dy valmiiksi hameeksi asti suurit\u00f6isyytens\u00e4 vuoksi, mutta kirjailtu kappale antaa taas tutkijoille lis\u00e4\u00e4 tietoa entisajan k\u00e4sity\u00f6menetelmist\u00e4. Se tulee esille Merikeskuksen n\u00e4yttelyyn ja sit\u00e4 kautta antaa my\u00f6s museok\u00e4vij\u00f6ille v\u00e4l\u00e4hdyksen siit\u00e4 millainen arvotekstiili alkuper\u00e4inen hame olikaan aikanaan. Varmaa tietoa ei ole, mutta n\u00e4in kallis tekstiili on mit\u00e4 luultavimmin ollut menossa hoviv\u00e4en k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Voit lukea lis\u00e4\u00e4 hylkytekstiilist\u00e4 Annin, projektin alullepanijan kirjoittamana, t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4<\/a>. Sek\u00e4 t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4 Ylen sivuilta Annin haastattelusta<\/a>. Ja englanniksi t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Did you knew, that in Finland exists one internationally rare piece of historical clothing. The Maritime museum of Finland, Maritime center Vellamo, safekeeps rarity from the sea, textile found from 1700’s ship wreck. When I say textile, you might think it as quite large piece of fabric. But in reality there are just small scraps left. Ship wreck textiles are very rare because seawater and the seabed destroys the fabric much faster than any other materials. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1747 commercial ship Sankt Mikael was sailing from Netherlands to St Petersburg, when it sank. It’s cargohold was full of luxury items for the court of St Petersburg: Meissen porcelain, valuable clocks, cart for the Empress Elisabeth of Russia. Needless to say that St Mikael has been and is one of the most well known wrecks of Finland. It was found in the 1950’s and has been fascinating scientists ever since. In the 60’s all sorts of treasures were raised from the wreck and they are now on display at Vellamo. They haven’t tried lifting the wreck itself, even though there has been talk about that too. Unfortunately this original textile is in such bad condition it can’t be displayed at all anymore. However historians have been able to study it and find out that it originally was stitched, padded petticoat, made of silk taffeta with pearl decorations. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

These days the pieces which are left are just brown wool padding. Even though most of the silk fabric and stitching has vanished, there is still patterns on the wool, left by the stitching. Small scraps of fabric have been studied and found out the complete stitching pattern, what materials were used and what colour it was. And like a miracle, some of the tiny pearls have been saved too. They were sewn atleast in the middle of the flower patterns. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

During last Summer, a replicating project of this petticoat was launched in Vellamo. Idea is to make one piece of it. I was visiting Vellamo last June, when they started the project. Materials are wool padding, pale grayish blue silk taffeta, made with historical methods and silk thread. On my 1700’s picnic post I shortly mentioned that I also popped in to do little bit of hand sewing for this project. It was awesome to see the progress from last Summer. It will never be a finished petticoat, it’s just way too time consuming. However it will give historians a chance to learn more about historical handcrafting. This handstitched piece will be later put on display at Vellamo exhibition. That way it is able to give a little glimpse to the museum visitors how expensive and elaborate textile it originally was. There is no actual information about it, but it is likely that petticoat was going to the royal court of St. Petersburg. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can read more in english about the St Mikael and other Finnish shipwreck textiles in here<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Osa tikkauskuviosta\/
Part of the stitching pattern<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Valokuvia hylkytekstiilist\u00e4. \/
Photos of the actual ship wreck item.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Ensimm\u00e4isell\u00e4 tapaamiskerralla tutustuimme tekstiiliin, leikkasimme materiaalit, rei’itimme kuvion sabloonat ja kiinnitimme kankaat kirjontakehykseen.<\/strong> T\u00e4ss\u00e4 tikkauskuvion asettelu kankaalle. \/
During first meeting we learned about the actual textile, cut the materials, punctured the pattern motifs and stretched the materials on the embroidery frame. Here is placing the pattern to the fabric.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Ensimm\u00e4iset koepistot kes\u00e4kuussa 2019. T\u00e4h\u00e4n asti p\u00e4\u00e4simme ensimm\u00e4isell\u00e4 projektin tapaamiskerralla. \/
Fist stitches on the fabric in June 2019.This is where we got to during the first project meeting. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Kes\u00e4kuussa 2020 viel\u00e4 paljon ompelua teht\u00e4v\u00e4n\u00e4. Ompeluty\u00f6n ovat p\u00e4\u00e4osin tehneet vapaaehtoiset k\u00e4sity\u00f6n- ja historian harrastajat tiettyin\u00e4 projektip\u00e4ivin\u00e4. T\u00e4st\u00e4 syyst\u00e4 edistyminen on ollut hidasta. Kev\u00e4\u00e4n korona-hommat ovat my\u00f6s hidastaneet ty\u00f6t\u00e4. \/
June 2020 lots more stitching to do. Sewing is mostly done by volunteered handcraft and history hobbyists on specific project days. Due to this it has not been advancing very fast. Corona spring has also slowed things down. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Ty\u00f6n \u00e4\u00e4reen mahtuu maksimissaan nelj\u00e4 ihmist\u00e4 yht\u00e4 aikaa. \/
Maximum amount of people doing stitching at the same time is four. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
En ehtinyt parissa tunnissa tehd\u00e4 kovin suurta aluetta, jotkin n\u00e4ist\u00e4 ovat minun tekemi\u00e4ni. \/
I didn’t really do much in couple hours, some of these stitches are made by me. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Vellamossa on esill\u00e4 n\u00e4it\u00e4 hylyst\u00e4 nostettuja esineit\u00e4. \/
In Vellamo they are displaying these items lifted from the wreck. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tiesittek\u00f6, ett\u00e4 Suomesta l\u00f6ytyy yksi maailmanlaajuisestikin harvinainen historiallinen tekstiili. Merimuseossa Kotkassa, Merikeskus Vellamossa, s\u00e4ilytet\u00e4\u00e4n merenpohjasta l\u00f6ytynytt\u00e4 harvinaisuutta, 1700-luvulla uponneen kauppalaivan ruumasta l\u00f6ytynytt\u00e4 tekstiili\u00e4. Kun sanon tekstiili, saatatte ehk\u00e4 kuvitella, ett\u00e4 kyseess\u00e4 on joku melko suuri kangaskappale. Todellisuudessa j\u00e4ljell\u00e4 on en\u00e4\u00e4 pieni\u00e4 paloja. Hylkytekstiilit ovat harvinaisuuksia koska merivesi ja merenpohjan eli\u00f6st\u00f6 tuhoaa kankaat paljon nopeammin kuin… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":15403,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Rare shipwreck textile","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[43,44,12,41,7,150],"tags":[151,273,188,253,311,104,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-15368","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-happeninkia","8":"category-jotainihanmuuta","9":"category-munelama","10":"category-ontheroad","11":"category-projektit","12":"category-pukuhistoria","13":"tag-costume-history","14":"tag-historical-costuming","15":"tag-history","16":"tag-living-history","17":"tag-museums","18":"tag-projects","19":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","21":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/hylkyteks1.jpg?fit=800%2C533","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-3ZS","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15368","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=15368"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15368\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":15412,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15368\/revisions\/15412"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/15403"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=15368"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=15368"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=15368"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}