{"id":15108,"date":"2020-03-27T17:35:00","date_gmt":"2020-03-27T15:35:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=15108"},"modified":"2020-03-27T17:35:54","modified_gmt":"2020-03-27T15:35:54","slug":"villahameen-kunnostus-repairing-vintage-wool-skirt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=15108","title":{"rendered":"Villahameen kunnostus \/ Repairing vintage wool skirt"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Kun ostin hiljattain puutteellisen H\u00e4rm\u00e4n-Isokyr\u00f6n kansallispuvun, aikomukseni oli kunnostaa hame arkik\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n. En juurikaan v\u00e4lit\u00e4 lyhyist\u00e4 hameista ja itse hame oli muutenkin melko hyv\u00e4kuntoinen. Siksi ajattelin ett\u00e4 vaikka en koskaan saisikaan kokonaista kansallispukua kasaan, voisin aivan hyvin kunnostaa hameen niinkuin se olisi osa kansallispukua. Siis sill\u00e4 tavalla “oikein”. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ensimm\u00e4inen homma oli hameen purkaminen. Irrotin helman samettiliivist\u00e4, jonka vuoriin se oli ommeltu kiinni. Sitten purin auki helmap\u00e4\u00e4rmeen ja vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n laskokset. Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauhaa helmassa ei ollut lainkaan. Irrotin vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6halkion nepparit ja paikkasin kaikki rei\u00e4t. Niit\u00e4 oli onneksi vain muutama aivan pikkuruinen ja helman taitteella yksi v\u00e4h\u00e4n isompi repe\u00e4m\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u00e4m\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen vuorossa oli helman pesu. Kansallispukujen, etenkin vanhojen sellaisten ollessa kyseess\u00e4, villakankaita ei suositella pesem\u00e4\u00e4n kuin aivan viimeisen\u00e4 keinona. Riskin\u00e4 nimitt\u00e4in on aina v\u00e4rien levi\u00e4minen ja huovuttuminen. Hiukan j\u00e4nnitti, mutta p\u00e4\u00e4tin kuitenkin k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 hameen ihan kunnon vesipesussa, helma oli sen verran likainen taitteelta. Pesuaineena k\u00e4ytin villalle ja silkille tarkoitettua hell\u00e4varaista nestem\u00e4ist\u00e4 pesuainetta. Upotin helmakankaan kylm\u00e4\u00e4n pesuaineveteen ja huljuttelin ja puristelin sit\u00e4 siell\u00e4 jonkun aikaa. Liotusta kehotetaan v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n, arvelisin ett\u00e4 helma oli pesuvedess\u00e4 ehk\u00e4 15-20 minuuttia. Samoin hankausta kehoitetaan v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n. Helmataitteella oli kuitenkin sen verran tumma raita ett\u00e4 hankasin kangasta v\u00e4h\u00e4n, kuteiden suuntaisesti jolloin kuluminen on v\u00e4h\u00e4isemp\u00e4\u00e4 kuin joka suuntaan tapahtuvassa hankauksessa. Pesuvesi oli melko likaista. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sitten huuhtelin helman huolellisesti. Huuhteluvesi oli samanl\u00e4mp\u00f6ist\u00e4 kuin pesuvesikin, huopumisen v\u00e4ltt\u00e4miseksi. Huuhteluvesi\u00e4 vaihdetaan kunnes vesi on kirkasta. Vasta ehk\u00e4 viides tai kuudes huuhteluvesi oli kirkasta. T\u00e4m\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen levitin helman pyyhkeen p\u00e4\u00e4lle, taitoin hameen pyyhkeineen kolmeen kertaan pitkitt\u00e4in ja rullasin sen tiiviisti. Seisoin pyyherullan p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 puristaakseni siit\u00e4 kaikki ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4iset vedet pois. Lopulta nostin hameen kuivaustelineelle tasoon kuivumaan. Seuraavana aamuna tarkastin tuloksen. Huh! V\u00e4rit eiv\u00e4t levinneet. T\u00e4h\u00e4n auttoivat oikea pesuaine, tasainen viile\u00e4 (kylm\u00e4) pesul\u00e4mp\u00f6tila ja samanl\u00e4mp\u00f6inen huuhtelu sek\u00e4 valuvan veden puristaminen pyyhkeeseen. Ik\u00e4v\u00e4 kyll\u00e4 ihan kaikki lika ei taitteelta irronnut joten siihen j\u00e4i paikoitellen erottuva raita. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pesun j\u00e4lkeen vuorossa oli uuden vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauhan ja helmak\u00e4\u00e4nteen ompelu. Etel\u00e4-Pohjanmaan pukuun kuuluu raidallisesta kankaasta kudottu vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitale, luullakseni puuvillaa. T\u00e4t\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitalekangasta ei kuitenkaan juuri nyt ollut saatavilla (sit\u00e4 myy Lajulan kangastupa)<\/strong>, joten tein vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleen mankelipellavasta. Tiina lupasi kev\u00e4\u00e4n aikana kutoa lis\u00e4\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleita, joten tilaan varmaankin my\u00f6hemmin sitten sen oikean. Toistaiseksi p\u00e4rj\u00e4\u00e4n oikein hyvin t\u00e4ll\u00e4 pellavaisella. Nykyisin suositellaan ett\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6 kiinnitett\u00e4isiin nappien ja hakasten sijaan t\u00e4llaisilla ny\u00f6reill\u00e4. Niiss\u00e4 on puolensa. Ny\u00f6rit antavat vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lle s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6varaa, mutta toisaalta vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n kirist\u00e4minen napakaksi on hankalampaa, etenkin jos ne ovat n\u00e4in ohuet. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hameessa oli yll\u00e4tt\u00e4en ihan reilusti pituutta ja halusin tehd\u00e4 t\u00e4st\u00e4 k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6llisen pituisen k\u00e4ytt\u00f6hameen, joten ompelin vain simppelisti reilun helmak\u00e4\u00e4nteen hamekankaasta. Sen olisi voinut korvata pellavaisella erillisell\u00e4 varjokaitaleella, joka antaa ohuelle villakankaalle ryhti\u00e4 ja tukea. Jos p\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4n joskus t\u00e4ydent\u00e4\u00e4 pukua muilla osilla, saatan my\u00f6s lis\u00e4t\u00e4 helmaan pellavakaitaleen ryhti\u00e4 antamaan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Recently I bought this skirt that belongs to H\u00e4rm\u00e4-Isokyr\u00f6 folk costume. My plan was to turn it into ordinary skirt for everyday use. I don’t really care for short skirts and the skirt is actually in pretty good condition. Many people make alterations for national costume skirts if they are in bad shape. In this case, I was going to do it as it would be actual part of full national costume. The “correct” way. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

First thing was to separate skirt and waistcoat. It was handstitched on the waistcoat lining. Then I unpicked the hem and pleats at the waist. There was no waistband. I also unpicked snap buttons and mended all the wholes. Thankfully there was only couple small ones and one large tear on the hem. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

After this I washed the skirt. When it comes to colourfull national costume skirts, they recommend washing only as last resort, to prevent colours from bleeding and felting. I was nervous about washing it, but it just had to be done. Skirt was quite dirty on the hem. I used washing liquid meant for wool and silk. I submerged whole skirt into cold water and swished and squeezed it around for perhaps 15-20 minutes. They recommend to avoid long soaking, like they also recommend for rubbing. It was so dirty on the hem fold that I had to rub it a bit, but only along the yarns. That wears off less than rubbing to all directions. Washing water became quite dark.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then I rinsed it very carefully by changing the water after awile. Rinsing water must be the same temperature than washing water. This prevents the felting of wool fabric. I changed rinsing water perhaps 5-6 times until it was clear. After this I spread the skirt ontop larger towel, folded sides to the center and rolled it tightly. Then I stood ontop of the roll to squeeze as much water off as possible. Then I spread it ontop of drying rack to dry. Next morning I checked the results. Phew! Colours did not bleed. Correct washing liquid, cool and even water temperature and squeezing the dripping water into the towel helped significantly on preventing the bleeding and felting. Unfortunately not all dirt came of from the hem fold, there is still faint stains here and there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

New waistband and hem fold were the next jobs after the wash. Etel\u00e4-Pohjanmaa costume has stripey waistband from very different material, cotton I beleve. This fabric is not available at the moment, so I made ordinary linen waistband instead. Lajulan kangastupa is one-woman weaving business, which provides all sorts of handwoven fabrics for Finnish national costumes. Owner said she will be weaving more of the waistbands this Spring, so I will probably get one then. But for now the linen waistband works just fine. Modern recommendation is that folk costume waistband is closed with these ribbons and loops instead of buttons and hooks. They have some benefits. Waistband has easy-access adjustment reserve. On the other hand the waistband is difficult to get tightened sturdily. Atleast if the ribbons are very fine like mine. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quite surpriisingly the skirt is quite long (old folk costumes rarely are very long). I wanted to make this practical skirt for everyday wear, so I didn’t want it very long. I made wide hemming just by folding the fabric. Often strip of linen is used instead. That gives the fine wool fabric some structure and support. If I decide to update the costume with other parts later, I might add the linen facing to the hem. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Vartin liotus ja pesuvedest\u00e4 tuli n\u00e4in likaista. \/
After about just 15 minutes soaking water became this dirty.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Nelj\u00e4s huuhteluvesi oli viel\u00e4 n\u00e4in sameaa. \/
Fourth rinse became this murky.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Helman repe\u00e4m\u00e4 \/ Tear at the hem<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Paikattu reik\u00e4 \/ Mended hole<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Paikattu helman liestym\u00e4 \/ Mended hole on the hemline<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Aitapistoin kiinnitetty helmak\u00e4\u00e4nne. \/ Hem fold.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Entiselle helman taitteelle j\u00e4i tummempi raita pesusta huolimatta.\/
Old hemline was left with darker areas despite of the wash. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Hame k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 ensikertaa. \/
Skirt in use for the first time. <\/em>
Photo: Erika V. Visuals<\/a><\/strong>
K\u00e4ytt\u00f6 ilman lupaa kielletty.
Do not use without permission. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kun ostin hiljattain puutteellisen H\u00e4rm\u00e4n-Isokyr\u00f6n kansallispuvun, aikomukseni oli kunnostaa hame arkik\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n. En juurikaan v\u00e4lit\u00e4 lyhyist\u00e4 hameista ja itse hame oli muutenkin melko hyv\u00e4kuntoinen. Siksi ajattelin ett\u00e4 vaikka en koskaan saisikaan kokonaista kansallispukua kasaan, voisin aivan hyvin kunnostaa hameen niinkuin se olisi osa kansallispukua. Siis sill\u00e4 tavalla “oikein”. Ensimm\u00e4inen homma oli hameen purkaminen. Irrotin helman samettiliivist\u00e4,… <\/p>\n

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