{"id":14828,"date":"2019-12-08T10:00:28","date_gmt":"2019-12-08T08:00:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=14828"},"modified":"2019-12-11T12:04:28","modified_gmt":"2019-12-11T10:04:28","slug":"8-12-19-topeliaaninen-paivapuku-dickensian-daydress","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=14828","title":{"rendered":"8\/12-19 Topeliaaninen p\u00e4iv\u00e4puku \/ Dickensian daydress"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Aivan tuotapikaa Turussa on ensimm\u00e4inen pienimuotoinen 1800-luvun loppupuolen tapahtuma. Teemana on Topeliaaninen Joulu, v\u00e4h\u00e4n samaan tapaan kuin Englannissa vietet\u00e4\u00e4n Dickensiaanista Joulua. Molemmat sijoittuvat suurinpiirtein samaan aikahaarukkaan. Olen t\u00e4st\u00e4 tosi innoissani sill\u00e4 olen jo pitk\u00e4\u00e4n halunnut p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 Dickensin joulutunnelmaan. Englannissahan t\u00e4llaisia dickensiaanisia historianel\u00e4v\u00f6itystapahtumia on j\u00e4rjestetty jo pidemp\u00e4\u00e4n. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Minulla on ollut ty\u00f6n alla itselleni 1800-luvun puoliv\u00e4lin tiet\u00e4m\u00e4n p\u00e4iv\u00e4puku. Puolisollani sellainen jo sattumoisin on, silintereineen p\u00e4ivineen. Valitettavasti l\u00e4hes koko marraskuu meni ty\u00f6huoneen muuttoa tehdess\u00e4 joten nyt minulla on en\u00e4\u00e4 reilu viikkoa aikaa. Saattaa tulla kiire. Hameessa ei ole mit\u00e4\u00e4n sen ihmeellisemp\u00e4\u00e4, renkaaksi ommeltu suorakaide, joka on vetopoimutettu vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lt\u00e4 ja ommeltu vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleeseen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sen sijaan alushame on ty\u00f6l\u00e4\u00e4mpi. Alle olen suunnitellut sellaista pehme\u00e4sti kohottavaa alushamemallia joka englanniksi kulkee nimell\u00e4 “corded petticoat”. En tied\u00e4 mik\u00e4 sen oikea suomenkielinen vastine mahtaisi olla, ehk\u00e4p\u00e4 ny\u00f6rialushame? T\u00e4llaiset hameet olivat k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 ennen 1800-luvun lopun j\u00e4ykki\u00e4 krinoliineja. Niiss\u00e4 kankaaseen on ommeltu tiiviisti kerroksittain ny\u00f6ri\u00e4 joko kangaslaskoksen v\u00e4liin, tai kahden erillisen kankaan v\u00e4liin. En ole p\u00e4\u00e4ssyt k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n t\u00e4h\u00e4n teollisuuskonettani ty\u00f6huoneen muuton vuoksi, ja kotikoneella ny\u00f6rikujien ompelu on toivottoman hidasta. Alushame on edelleen kesken vaikka siin\u00e4 onkin jo kaksi isompaa ny\u00f6rikerrosta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Isompi ongelma on puvun miehusta. Puvun alle luonnollisesti kuuluisi korsetti, mutta minulla ei juuri nyt ole aikaa sellaisen tekemiseen. Siksi ajattelinkin k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 alla yht\u00e4 burleskihommiin ompelemaani korsettia, joka on tehty viktoriaanisella kaavalla vaikka ei ihan t\u00e4ysin vastaakaan 1800-luvun puoliv\u00e4lin korsettimallia. Lis\u00e4ksi puvun alla olisi hyv\u00e4 olla jonkinlainen aluspaita, siit\u00e4 joudun luultavasti tinkim\u00e4\u00e4n ja k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n jotakin modernimpaa aluspaitaa. Onneksi se ei alta n\u00e4y. Miehustan kaavan piirsin itse k\u00e4ytt\u00e4en pohjana jotakin vanhaa kaavaani. Voi olla ett\u00e4 siit\u00e4 tulee katastrofi, saa n\u00e4hd\u00e4, mutta ensimm\u00e4inen sovite ainakin n\u00e4ytti istuvan korsetin p\u00e4\u00e4lle melko hyvin. Pit\u00e4\u00e4 viel\u00e4 hiukan perehty\u00e4 1800-luvun puoliv\u00e4lin rintamuotolaskoksen muotoiluun ja paikkaan, sitten n\u00e4hd\u00e4\u00e4n miten k\u00e4y.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lis\u00e4ksi tarvitsisin asuun hatun, l\u00e4mpim\u00e4n p\u00e4\u00e4llysvaatteen ja k\u00e4sineet. Ajanmukaiset keng\u00e4t ovat pienin ongelmistani t\u00e4ss\u00e4 vaiheessa. Minulta l\u00f6ytyy villainen 1900-luvun alun viitta joka sopii v\u00e4reihin, mutta se yksin ei riit\u00e4 l\u00e4mmitt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n. Syd\u00e4nyst\u00e4v\u00e4-neule valmistui jo aiemmin, se tietysti l\u00e4mmitt\u00e4\u00e4 miehustaa viitan alla, mutta mist\u00e4 taion l\u00e4mpim\u00e4t k\u00e4sineet tai muhvin t\u00e4h\u00e4n h\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n? En luultavasti ehdi niit\u00e4 neuloa kaiken muun lis\u00e4ksi. V\u00e4h\u00e4n hirvitt\u00e4\u00e4 ett\u00e4 mit\u00e4 t\u00e4st\u00e4 tulee. Ja se hattu. Vaikka tekisin ihan jonkun perusmallisen bonnetin niin siin\u00e4kin piisaa hommaa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Quite soon we have first small late 1800’s event in Turku. Theme is Topelian Christmas. It is similar to English Dickensian era. Topelius was famous Finnish author, who wrote historical novels and poetry. Some of his most famous poems are now very famous Christmas carrols. He was also considered Finnish equivalent to H.C Andersen. Topelius lived around the same time period than Dickens. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I have mid 1800’s day gown in the making for myself. My hubby already has one, with top hat and all. Unfortunately almost all of the November went into moving my work room, so now I have only couple of weeks to finish the dress. It might be a rush. Skirt isn’t anything special, just rectangle sewn into huge ring, cartridge pleated waist sewn onto waistband. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Petticoat however is going to be more tedious work. I have planned to make corded petticoat, where rows and rows of cotton cord are sewn inside fabric to create stiffness. These were in use before the late 1800’s hoop crinolines. I haven’t been able to use my industrial sewing machine, because of the moving. Sewing the cords with my small machine at home is very slow. Petticoat is not finished yet even though there is two quite large groups of cord. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Much bigger problem is going to be the bodice. There should be a corset underneath, of course, but at the moment I don’t have time to make one. So I was planning on using one corset that I made for burlesque. It is made with Victorian pattern, all though it is not perfectly correct shape for mid 1800’s. Also I should have some sort of chemise, but I might have to use modern option instead. Thankfully it doesn’t show. I drafted the bodice pattern myself, using one of my old patterns as a base. It could turn out to be a catastrophe, even thought the mockup looked pretty good ontop the corset. I still need to figure out some bodice darts of 1800’s and then we will see. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I also will be needing a hat, warm outside garment and gloves. Proper shoes are my least problem at this point. I do have wool cape from turn of 1900’s, but that is not warm enough on it’s own. I also have bosom friend which I finished some time ago, which is going to be warming the bodice under the cape, but where on earth am I going to get proper mitts? I don’t have time to knit them, with everything else going on. I have no idea how this is going to end up. And the hat. Even if I make very simple bonnet, it will take time. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Luonnoksia \/ Drafts<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Yl\u00e4osan sovituskappale. \/
Bodice mockup.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Helman vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n vetopoimutus. Olenko muuten koskaan maininnut ett\u00e4 inhoan<\/strong>
vetopoimutuksen tekemist\u00e4? Mutta ne ovat niin turkasen n\u00e4ttej\u00e4! \/
Skirt waist cartridge pleats. Have I ever mentioned that I hate making those?<\/em><\/strong>
But they look so darn cute!<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Koristelujen v\u00e4rin valintaa. \/
Choosing the colour for decoration. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Ny\u00f6rituettu alushame puolivalmiina. \/
Corded petticoat half done.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Aivan tuotapikaa Turussa on ensimm\u00e4inen pienimuotoinen 1800-luvun loppupuolen tapahtuma. Teemana on Topeliaaninen Joulu, v\u00e4h\u00e4n samaan tapaan kuin Englannissa vietet\u00e4\u00e4n Dickensiaanista Joulua. Molemmat sijoittuvat suurinpiirtein samaan aikahaarukkaan. Olen t\u00e4st\u00e4 tosi innoissani sill\u00e4 olen jo pitk\u00e4\u00e4n halunnut p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 Dickensin joulutunnelmaan. Englannissahan t\u00e4llaisia dickensiaanisia historianel\u00e4v\u00f6itystapahtumia on j\u00e4rjestetty jo pidemp\u00e4\u00e4n. Minulla on ollut ty\u00f6n alla itselleni 1800-luvun puoliv\u00e4lin tiet\u00e4m\u00e4n… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14905,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"8\/12-19 Dickensian daydress in the making","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,228,7,150,13],"tags":[297,294,298,273,253],"class_list":{"0":"post-14828","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-evilompelee","8":"category-historianelavoitys","9":"category-projektit","10":"category-pukuhistoria","11":"category-vaatehtimo","12":"tag-1800s","13":"tag-christmas-calendar-2019","14":"tag-dickensian","15":"tag-historical-costuming","16":"tag-living-history","18":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/dickensian4.jpg?fit=800%2C1182","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-3Ra","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14828","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=14828"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14828\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14913,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14828\/revisions\/14913"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/14905"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=14828"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=14828"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=14828"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}