{"id":14731,"date":"2019-10-06T17:45:03","date_gmt":"2019-10-06T14:45:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=14731"},"modified":"2019-10-06T17:45:12","modified_gmt":"2019-10-06T14:45:12","slug":"mantasala-update","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=14731","title":{"rendered":"M\u00e4nt\u00e4s\u00e4l\u00e4 update"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Alkukes\u00e4st\u00e4 hankkimani keskener\u00e4inen M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4n kansallispuku etenee hitaasti. Pusero tuli valmiiksi jo kes\u00e4ll\u00e4 ja nyt sain vihdoin valmiiksi hameen. Vaikka hameessa ei ollutkaan paljon ompelua, se j\u00e4i kesken kun en osannut p\u00e4\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 mit\u00e4 teen vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauhan kanssa. Kankaat ovat k\u00e4sinkudottuja eik\u00e4 niit\u00e4 saa lis\u00e4\u00e4 muutoin kuin kutomalla itse lis\u00e4\u00e4 (tai kudottamalla kalliisti ammattilaisella)<\/strong>. Sinist\u00e4 liivikangasta, josta my\u00f6s vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauha pit\u00e4isi ommella, on melko rajallinen m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4. En uskaltanut leikata siit\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaletta siin\u00e4 pelossa, ett\u00e4 kangas ei sitten riit\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n liiviin. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Niinp\u00e4 sitten p\u00e4\u00e4dyin ompelemaan vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleen pellavasta kuten nykyiset ohjeet suosittavat jos alkuper\u00e4ist\u00e4 kangasta ei ole. Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6 suljettaisiin oikeasti lenkkeihin solmituin pellavany\u00f6rein mutta koska oli kiire, laitoin toistaiseksi sulkijoiksi vintage-napit. Jos liivikangasta j\u00e4\u00e4, teen my\u00f6hemmin uuden vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleen siit\u00e4. Tai jos ei j\u00e4\u00e4, j\u00e4t\u00e4n pellavaisen kaitaleen pysyv\u00e4sti, mutta korvaan napit my\u00f6hemmin pellavany\u00f6rein ja lenkein. Silloin hameessa on s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6varaa ilman ett\u00e4 nappeja t\u00e4ytyy siirt\u00e4\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hame p\u00e4\u00e4si valmistuttuaan heti k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n, sill\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n n\u00e4m\u00e4kin asut on tehty. Lauantaina 5.10 oli Kansallispuvun juhlap\u00e4iv\u00e4 ja Jyv\u00e4skyl\u00e4ss\u00e4 K\u00e4sity\u00f6n museossa juhlittiin 130-vuotiasta kansallispukua. Itse en p\u00e4\u00e4ssyt mukaan t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa, mutta olin hengess\u00e4 mukana pukeutumalla M\u00e4ns\u00e4l\u00e4n puvun hameeseen Tuunaa mun perinne-teemalla. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Muutoin puku-projekti etenee varsin verkkaisesti. Nypl\u00e4yskurssi on polkaistu k\u00e4yntiin ja perusly\u00f6ntej\u00e4 kerrataan nyt niin ett\u00e4 menev\u00e4t selk\u00e4rankaan. Seuraavaksi pit\u00e4isi hommata sarvitanuun sopivaa nypl\u00e4yslankaa ja ryhty\u00e4 nypl\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n pitsej\u00e4. Niit\u00e4 tulee tanuun kaksi. Silkkiesiliina on p\u00e4\u00e4rm\u00e4yst\u00e4 vaille ja tasku odottelee leikkaamista. Liivi taitanee j\u00e4\u00e4d\u00e4 n\u00e4iden muiden j\u00e4lkeen teht\u00e4v\u00e4ksi. Pukuun kuuluu lis\u00e4ksi alushame ja pitsisukat. Alushame on helppo tehd\u00e4 joten se menee ehk\u00e4 v\u00e4lity\u00f6n\u00e4 joskus, mutta sukat ja sukkanauhat j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t varmasti johonkin toiseen ajankohtaan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Earlier this Summer I bought this unfinished M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4 region national costume. It takes ages to finish it, but I finished the blouse during the Summer and now finally was able to finish the skirt. Even though skirt wasn’t very complicated and there was not much to sew, it took me awhile, because I could not decide what to do with the waistband. These fabrics are quite special, they are hand woven. You can’t get more of them, except by weaving them by yourself (or ordering from professional weaver with high cost)<\/strong>. There is not much fabric left for the vest, and the skirt waistband is supposed to be made of same fabric. However I’m afraid that there is not enough for the vest if I use it also for waistband. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

So I ended up making the waistband of linen, just like modern instructions say if there isn’t any original material available. Authentic closure would be linen ribbons and loops, but because I was in a hurry I used vintage buttons. If there is enough fabric left after the vest, I will replace the current waistband with blue fabric. However if there isn’t, I will use this linen band and replace the buttons with ribbons. That way there is adjustment allowance to waist without having to move buttons. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I took the skirt in use immediately. I want to use them too, not just store them in closet, like it’s the case with many national costumes in Finland. Saturday 5.10 was the National Costume celebration in Jyv\u00e4skyl\u00e4, Finnish handcraft museum. I was not able to attend, but in the spirit of the party I wore my new and fresh M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4 skirt with ordinary clothes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Otherwise the sewing project is going rather slow. Bobbin lace course is on the go, I am learning the basic weaves untill they come from my spine. Next I need to order some yarn for the lace that goes on the hat. There is two different kind of lace, which I will both make myself. Silk apron is needing hemming and pocket needs cutting. I think vest is going to be the last. Costume also includes petticoat and lace stockings. Petticoat is easy to make, so I will probably make that at some point between other things, but stockings and garters might have to wait for later time. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Monista muista puvuista poiketen, M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4n puvun helmassa on musta villakankainen
reunus joka k\u00e4\u00e4ntyy nurjalle ja muodostaan helmak\u00e4\u00e4nteen. \/
Unlike in most Finnish national costumes, M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4 region skirt has black trimming
on the hem. It folds under and creates narrow lining on the hem. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Helman olisi voinut olla viisi sentti\u00e4 pidempikin, mutta kangas oli kudottu edellisen
omistajan pituuden mukaan. En anna t\u00e4m\u00e4n h\u00e4irit\u00e4 asiaa. \/
Hem could have been two inches longer, but fabric had been woven to the
hight of the previous owner. I’m not letting this to bother me. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitale napituksineen. Zero Waste-teeman mukaisesti k\u00e4ytin t\u00e4h\u00e4nkin
toisaalta t\u00e4hteeksi j\u00e4\u00e4nytt\u00e4 pellavaa. \/
Waistband and buttoning. According to Zero Waste theme, I used linen
leftovers from another project. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Nypl\u00e4ysharjoitelma. T\u00e4m\u00e4 vaatimaton sentin levyinen pitsi on \u00e4lytt\u00f6m\u00e4n hidasta
tehd\u00e4. Onneksi kansallispuvun pitsi taitaa olla v\u00e4h\u00e4n paksumpaa lankaa. \/
Bobbin lace practice. This modest narrow lace is very slow to make.
Thankfully national costume lace will be a bit thicker yarn, I think.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Alkukes\u00e4st\u00e4 hankkimani keskener\u00e4inen M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4n kansallispuku etenee hitaasti. Pusero tuli valmiiksi jo kes\u00e4ll\u00e4 ja nyt sain vihdoin valmiiksi hameen. Vaikka hameessa ei ollutkaan paljon ompelua, se j\u00e4i kesken kun en osannut p\u00e4\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 mit\u00e4 teen vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauhan kanssa. Kankaat ovat k\u00e4sinkudottuja eik\u00e4 niit\u00e4 saa lis\u00e4\u00e4 muutoin kuin kutomalla itse lis\u00e4\u00e4 (tai kudottamalla kalliisti ammattilaisella). Sinist\u00e4 liivikangasta, josta my\u00f6s… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14736,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Next stage of my M\u00e4nts\u00e4l\u00e4 region costume is ready. ","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[18,27,12,7,13],"tags":[108,291,68,126,257],"class_list":{"0":"post-14731","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-asut","8":"category-evilompelee","9":"category-munelama","10":"category-projektit","11":"category-vaatehtimo","12":"tag-clothing","13":"tag-handcrafts","14":"tag-outfits","15":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","16":"tag-wardrobe","18":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/mantsala4.jpg?fit=800%2C1234","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-3PB","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14731","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=14731"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14731\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14739,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14731\/revisions\/14739"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/14736"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=14731"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=14731"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=14731"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}