{"id":14359,"date":"2019-03-10T09:00:14","date_gmt":"2019-03-10T07:00:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=14359"},"modified":"2019-03-11T10:16:41","modified_gmt":"2019-03-11T08:16:41","slug":"renesanssisukat-renaissance-stocking","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=14359","title":{"rendered":"Renesanssisukat: osa 1 \/ Renaissance stocking: part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

Vihjaisin joku aika sitten ett\u00e4 olen mukana er\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 kiinnostavassa projektissa. Nyt paljastan mist\u00e4 on kysymys. Historiantutkimuksen kansalaistiedeprojektit ovat nimitt\u00e4in rantautuneet Suomeen. Ei siis pelk\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n historianel\u00e4v\u00f6ityksen suhteen, vaan my\u00f6s tutkimukseen osallistavin menetelmin. Toissa vuonna saatettiin p\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6kseen Maskun intarsian rekonstruktio<\/a> johon en p\u00e4\u00e4ssyt ik\u00e4v\u00e4 kyll\u00e4 aikataulullisista syist\u00e4 osallistumaan. Nyt kuitenkin vintageharrastaja-kaverini\u00a0 vinkkasi, ett\u00e4 on alkamassa uusi kiinnostava projekti liittyen renesanssin ajan sukkiin.<\/p>\n

Refashioning the Renaissance<\/a> on viisivuotinen tutkimusprojekti jossa tutkitaan renesanssiajan pukeutumista, tyyli\u00e4 ja asenteiden vaikutusta muotiin ja pukeutumiseen. Projekti k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 sek\u00e4 perinteisi\u00e4 tutkimusmenetelmi\u00e4 kuten kuituanalyysej\u00e4, mutta my\u00f6s moderneja menetelmi\u00e4 kuten digitaalista mallinnusta, 3D-tulostusta ja kansalaistiedeprojekteja. Helmikuun lopussa alkoi noin vuoden pituinen silkkisukkaprojekti. Sen tarkoituksena on tutkia ja rekonstruoida Turusta, Elisabeth Buren haudasta l\u00f6ytynyt silkkinen pitk\u00e4 sukka. Alkuper\u00e4isest\u00e4 1650-luvun sukasta on otettu kuitun\u00e4ytteit\u00e4 ja tarkkoja valokuvia. Niiden perusteella pystyt\u00e4\u00e4n selvitt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n k\u00e4ytetty lanka, puikkojen vahvuus, k\u00e4ytetyt v\u00e4riaineet, tekem\u00e4\u00e4n sukalle valmistusohje, sek\u00e4 neulomaan sukasta identtisi\u00e4 kopioita.<\/p>\n

Tutkimus keskittyy erityisesti siihen milt\u00e4 sukan tekij\u00f6ist\u00e4 tuntuu ty\u00f6t\u00e4 tehdess\u00e4. Onko se helppoa tai vaikeaa, miten lanka k\u00e4ytt\u00e4ytyy, millaisia haasteita ty\u00f6n edetess\u00e4 ilmenee. Neulojat pit\u00e4v\u00e4t p\u00e4iv\u00e4kirjaa ty\u00f6vaiheista ja omista fiiliksist\u00e4. Turun silkkisukan lis\u00e4ksi projektissa oli valittavana kaksi muutakin renesanssiajan sukkamallia, mutta itse valitsin t\u00e4m\u00e4n haastavimman\u00a0 sukkamallin. Yhden sukan neulomiseen menee aikaa noin 200 tuntia. Olen mukana my\u00f6s pienryhm\u00e4ss\u00e4 joka valmistaa sukalle neulontaohjeen.<\/p>\n

Ensimm\u00e4inen tapaaminen pidettiin 28.2 ja toisessa tapaamisessa 7.3 saimme testineuloa projektissa k\u00e4ytett\u00e4vill\u00e4 puikoilla ja langoilla n\u00e4ytepaloja. Tein ensimm\u00e4isen koetilkun 1 mm puikoilla v\u00e4h\u00e4n vahvemmasta kampavillasta ja alkuj\u00e4rkytyksen j\u00e4lkeen se sujui melko kivasti. Neulepinta oli ihanan pehme\u00e4\u00e4 ja ohuisiin puikkoihin tottui nopeasti. Ei se tuntunut niin pahalta. Oli paljon isompi j\u00e4rkytys kuulla, ett\u00e4 varsinainen sukka tulisi neuloa 0,7 mm puikoilla kaikkein ohuimmasta langasta jota menee 100g noin 1650 metri\u00e4. Kotona neuloin mallitilkun ja se tuntui huomattavasti vaikeammalta kuin\u00a0 vahvempi lanka 1 mm puikoilla. Ohuet puikot taipuvat paljon ja itsell\u00e4ni on melko tiukka puristusote puikoista. Erityisesti nurjia silmukoita neuloessa oli todella vaikea saada langankireys pysym\u00e4\u00e4n sopivana, sill\u00e4 ohuen ohutta lankaa oli vaikea hallita. Joudun siis opettelemaan uusia tapoja k\u00e4sitell\u00e4 lankaa. Toisessa tapaamisessa tanskalainen historiantutkija kertoi ett\u00e4 erityisesti ohuita lankoja neulottaessa englantilainen neulontatapa tuottaa tasaisempaa j\u00e4lke\u00e4 ja langankireys pysyy parempana kuin modernissa pohjoismaisessa ja eurooppalaisessa tavassa. Toisaalta englantilainen tapa on paljon hitaampi menetelm\u00e4.<\/p>\n

No projekti on nyt vasta hyvin alkuvaiheessa. N\u00e4ht\u00e4v\u00e4ksi j\u00e4\u00e4 miten se tulee etenem\u00e4\u00e4n. Jos tuntuu sille ett\u00e4 silkkisukka (villasta neulottuna tosin)<\/strong><\/span> on t\u00e4ysin mahdoton toteuttaa, on aina mahdollisuus vaihtaa jompaan kumpaan kahdesta muusta sukkamallista jotka neulotaan hiukan vahvemmmilla langoilla.<\/p>\n

EDIT<\/strong> – Originaali Turun hautal\u00f6yt\u00f6sukka on t\u00e4ll\u00e4 hetkell\u00e4 esill\u00e4 Turun linnassa n\u00e4yttelyss\u00e4 Muutama sananen naisista<\/a>. N\u00e4yttely on avoinna 8.3.2020 asti.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

I hinted recently that I am joining an interesting project. Now I will tell you what it’s about. Citizen science projects on historical science have arrived to Finland. Not just historical re-enactment, but actual co-operational projects. Couple years ago they finished Masku intarsia<\/a> reconstruction project, which included a group of hobby sewists. I wasn’t able to join in due to my own schedules. Now my vintage friend tipped me about this new interesting project on Renaissance stockings.<\/p>\n

Refashioning the Renaissance<\/a> is five year science project about renaissance clothing, style and influence of attitudes to fashion. Project is using both traditional methods like fiber analyses, but also modern methods like digital modelling, 3D printing and citizen science projects. At the end of February was the launch of one year long silk stocking project. The purpose is to study and reconstruct a silk stocking, found from the grave of Elisabeth Bure, in Turku. Original stocking is from 1650’s and it’s been closely photographed and fiber samples taken. Based on samples and photos it’s possible to find out used material, gauge and dyes, to create knitting pattern for the stocking and finally to knit actual replica of it.<\/p>\n

This study is concentrating on how the knitters are finding the work. Is it easy or difficult, how the yarn behaves, what kind of challenges the work brings up. Knitters are keeping a diary of all they are doing and how they feel on the process. There was also two other stockings to choose for replicating, but I chose the most challenging one. It takes about 200 hours to make one stocking. I am also taking part on the small group who is creating the actual pattern for the stocking.<\/p>\n

First meeting was held 28.2 and second meeting on 7.3\u00a0 we were able to test knit with the thin needles and actual yarns. First I made sample with 1mm needles and fine wool. It was pretty nice after the original shock about the thin needles. Texture was smooth and I got used to the needles pretty fast. It wasn’t too bad actually. It was a bigger shock to hear that the actual stocking must be knitted with 0,7mm needles and yarn will be even more fine. 100 grams of yarn is about 1650 meters. At home I made sample and it was much harder than thicker yarn with 1 mm needles. Fine needles are very flexible and I have quite strong grip. Especially purling was tricky and it was hard to control the fine yarn and keep the tension correct. So I have to learn new ways of holding the yarn. On the second meeting, Danish historian told us that especially when using very fine yarns, the English knitting method helps to keep the result more even and makes the yarn tension much controllable. Our modern Scandinavian\/Europen method is not as easy for the fine yarns. On the other hand, English method is much more slower than Scandinavian.<\/p>\n

Well, now the project has only started. We will see how it turns out. If I feel that silk stocking (made of wool though)<\/span> <\/strong>is completely out of my league, I can always jump on to either of those other two stocking styles, which are made with slightly thicker yarns.<\/p>\n

EDIT – The original silk stocking is on display in Turku Castle in the exhibition A Few words about women<\/a>. Exhibition is open till 8.3.2020.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Renesanssisukkaprojekti l\u00e4hti k\u00e4yntiin mallitilkuilla. \/
Renaissance stocking project launched with samples.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Yl\u00e4vasemmalla 1 mm puikoilla hiukan vahvempaa kampavillalankaa ja alaoikealla 0,7 mm puikoilla kaikkein ohuita kampavillalankaa jonka vahvuus pit\u00e4isi t\u00e4sm\u00e4t\u00e4 hautal\u00f6yt\u00f6sukkaan. Molemmilla puikoilla 30 silmukkaa, kokoero on merkitt\u00e4v\u00e4. \/
Top left is sample made with 1 mm needles and slightly thicker yarn and bottom right is 0,7 mm needles with finest wool yarn. Yarn thickness should match the original silk stocking found from the grave. Both samples have 30 stitches on a row, size difference is significant.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vihjaisin joku aika sitten ett\u00e4 olen mukana er\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 kiinnostavassa projektissa. Nyt paljastan mist\u00e4 on kysymys. Historiantutkimuksen kansalaistiedeprojektit ovat nimitt\u00e4in rantautuneet Suomeen. Ei siis pelk\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n historianel\u00e4v\u00f6ityksen suhteen, vaan my\u00f6s tutkimukseen osallistavin menetelmin. Toissa vuonna saatettiin p\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6kseen Maskun intarsian rekonstruktio johon en p\u00e4\u00e4ssyt ik\u00e4v\u00e4 kyll\u00e4 aikataulullisista syist\u00e4 osallistumaan. Nyt kuitenkin vintageharrastaja-kaverini\u00a0 vinkkasi, ett\u00e4 on alkamassa uusi kiinnostava… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14363,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Making the Renaissance stocking","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[7,150],"tags":[151,104,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-14359","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-projektit","8":"category-pukuhistoria","9":"tag-costume-history","10":"tag-projects","11":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","13":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/sukkaprojekti2.jpg?fit=800%2C637","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-3JB","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14359","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=14359"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14359\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14368,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14359\/revisions\/14368"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/14363"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=14359"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=14359"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=14359"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}