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<\/a><\/p>\nLooks like I have unnoticed become collector of antique clothing. Quite some time ago I picked up this scrap of lace in one secondhand garment sale. It doesn’t look much more than scrap atleast. When I studied the piece more carefully at home, I realized it’s not just any scrap. It is missing a collar and cuffs, but otherwise it seems to be whole bodice of a dress or a blouse.<\/p>\n
Studying antique clothes is interesting. You can find out how they were made, what techniques and construction they used. Antique garments are usually quite different to modern. Not just the factory-made, but also other home or seamstress made. This lace bodice is model example how the high collar and so called pigeon chest will affect on the design.<\/p>\n
First of all, how do you get in. High collar hugs the neck very closely and reaches all the way to your jawline. Fine silk or lace could not handle buttoning in front, arch of the neck below chin would make it pucker and it might feel awkward towards the throat. Side of the neck on the other hand is quite straight and pretty good place for neckline opening. Often they opted for snap buttons or\u00a0 hooks and loops. Hooks are a bit iffy on the lace, but that’s what this blouse has. However when closing hooks on lace material you must be carefull so that hook actually goes to the metal loop and not on the fabric loop.<\/p>\n
Because blouse is very fitting on the waist, and possibly also attached to the hem, it is not enough to have the neckline open only to the shoulder. Massive Edwardian hairdo’s wouldn’t fit. That’s why opening continues alongside the sleeves eam all the way to the armpit and side seam to the waist. There is seambinding stabilazing the shoulder and sleeve seam.<\/p>\n
In the armpit the fastening changes into a bit shady one. There is no proper seam allowance and hooks seem a bit wonky. Closer investigation explains why. Most invisible seam for lace is done by following the patterns on the lace. All vertical seams in this bodice are made by cutting along the lace patterns and then overlapping edges and stitching them ontop of eachother. Hooks on the side are following that pattern. This kind of fastening has only been possible because the wearer has been also wearing tightly laced corset. So moving didn’t cause the side of the blouse move too much and shoot hooks here and there.<\/p>\n
Full pigeon chest bodice was created by gathering fabric heavily in front on the waist. Center front is also longer than the sides to give enough volume. Under the blouse the has possibly also been chemise with fluffy flounces on the chest to create as full effect as possible. Fashionable Edwardian s-bend corset also helped on creating the desired pigeon chest. Also strong gathering on the cuffs were popular at that time.<\/p>\n Musta on salaa ja huomaamatta tullut n\u00e4emm\u00e4 antiikkivaatteiden ker\u00e4ilij\u00e4. Nappasin joskus aikaa sitten Nextiilin p\u00f6nkij\u00e4isist\u00e4 ostoskoriini pitsireuhkan, joka ei n\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt milt\u00e4\u00e4n muulta kuin riekaleelta. No tarkempi tutkiminen kuitenkin osoitti, ett\u00e4 eih\u00e4n t\u00e4m\u00e4 mik\u00e4\u00e4n riekale olekaan. Siit\u00e4 puuttuu toki kaulus ja rannekkeet, mutta muuten se n\u00e4ytt\u00e4isi olevan ihan kokonainen pusero tai puvun yl\u00e4osa. Antiikkisten vaatteiden tutkiminen… <\/p>\n<\/a>
Cotton lace bodice from 1900’s. Waist about 60 cm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Sleeve is longer on the back, so because of heavy gathering back of the sleeve is hanging.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Neckline with gatherings on the left, shoulderseam in the middle and sleeve on the right.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Open neckline hooks on the shoulder.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Whole bodice open. Curved white ribbon attaches to the sleeve.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Front waist on reverse, heavily puffed due to gathering.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Sideseam and dart. Fabric edges overlapping. Sideseam in the middle and dart on the left.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Pin darts on the top of the sleeve are more visible against the light.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"