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<\/a><\/p>\nIn my opinion, the most difficult vintage to identify is jewelry. You can find lots of information and pictures of clothing. Not so much on jewelry. If a person is wearing any jewelry in a vintage photo, jewelry is often so small it doesn’t really show at all. You can’t really find any ads of jewelry, they weren’t necessity like shoes. People didn’t make them themselves like clothes. There is some information of them, but it is quite difficult to find. One detail here, another one there and so on. Vintage shop Vintage Garden in Tampere has organized couple of evenings for learning to identify vintage jewelry, but unfortunately I haven’t been able to attend. So I’m not your best possible teacher myself, but I can try and give couple pointers. At the end there is also links for helpfull guides. I will be adding more links later every time I find new ones, so feel free to check back every now and then.<\/p>\n
1. Materiaali<\/strong><\/span> Vaikeampaa korujen ajoittamisesta tulee ns. pukukorujen kohdalla. Ne voi olla valmistettu mist\u00e4 hyv\u00e4ns\u00e4 muusta kuin jalometallista. Koru voi olla puuta, luuta, hiusta, lasia, emalia, kive\u00e4, vulkaniittia, posliinia, tai monia erilaisia metalleja. Halvemman metallin p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 voi olla hopea- tai kultapinnoite. Se voi olla jotakin monista eri muovilaaduista kuten bakeliittia tai lusiittia. Siin\u00e4 voi olla yhdistettyn\u00e4 eri materiaaleja kuten halpaa korumetallia ja markasiitteja, korallia tai meripihkaa. Pukukoruissa ei yleens\u00e4 ole leimaa, tosin nimekk\u00e4\u00e4t valmistajat leimasivat korunsa ja jotkut niist\u00e4 on sit\u00e4 kautta hieman helpompi tunnistaa ja ajoittaa. Tiettyin\u00e4 aikakausina olivat muodissa tietyt materiaalit ja joitakin materiaaleja ei ollut saatavissa ennen tietty\u00e4 ajankohtaa, joten t\u00e4m\u00e4 auttaa rajaamaan aikahaarukkaa. Esim viktoriaanisella ajalla muodissa olivat tummas\u00e4vyiset gagaatti (jet, kivettynytt\u00e4 puuta)<\/strong> <\/span>vulkaniitti (eli eboniitti, kumin tapaista kovaa ainetta)<\/strong><\/span> ja markasiitti. Yksi merkitt\u00e4v\u00e4 tuntomerkki on paino. Muovihelmet ovat kevyempi\u00e4 kuin lasihelmet.<\/p>\n 1. Materials<\/strong><\/span><\/em> It is much more difficult to identify and date costume jewelry. They can be made of anything really. It can be wood, bone, hair, glass, enamel. stone, vulcanite, porcelain or any of the vast variety of metals. Cheaper metal can be plated with silver or gold. It can be any of many different qualities of plastic, like lucite or bakelite. It can combine different materials like cheap metal and expensive gems like marcasites, coral or amber. Costume jewelry don’t usually have hallmarks, allthough some manufactures did mark their products. Some of them are easier to identify for that reason. At certain periods of time, certain materials were in fashion and some materials weren’t even available yet. This helps to narrow down the time frame. For example during Victorian period materials like jet, vulcanite (also ebonite) and marcasite were fashionable materials for their dark colours. One significant feature is weight of the item. Plastic beads are much more lighter in weight than glass beads.<\/em><\/p>\n 2. Lukot ja rakenteet 2. Locks and construction<\/strong><\/span><\/em> 3. Muotoilu ja v\u00e4rimaailma Kannattaa tutkia korun yleist\u00e4 muotokielt\u00e4, onko se kulmikas, py\u00f6re\u00e4, litte\u00e4, sile\u00e4, moniulotteinen? Onko se pitkulainen vai yht\u00e4 pitk\u00e4 kuin leve\u00e4kin? Onko koru symmetrinen vai ep\u00e4symmetrinen? Onko siin\u00e4 liikkuvia osia tai kerroksia? Muistuttaako korun muoto ja yksityiskohdat jotakin tunnettua tyylisuuntaa kuten Art Decoa, funktionalismia, futurismia jne?<\/p>\n 3. Design and colours<\/strong><\/span><\/em> It’s always worth checking the general shape and design. Is the pieces sharp, round, flat, smooth, multidimentional? Is it long and narrow or equally long and wide? Is it symmetrical or not? Does it have moving bits or separate layers? Does it relate to wellknown design styles like Art Deco, funtionalism, futurism etc?<\/em><\/p>\n 4. Korun pinta<\/strong><\/span> 4. Surface and texture <\/strong><\/span><\/em> Apua tunnistukseen suomeksi<\/strong><\/span> Help identifying jewelry in english<\/strong><\/span>
\nKorut jaetaan karkeasti kahteen luokkaan: aidot korut ja pukukorut. Aidot korut on valmistettu jalometalleista eli kullasta, hopeasta ja platinasta sek\u00e4 korukivist\u00e4 ja helmist\u00e4. N\u00e4m\u00e4 korut on helppo ajoittaa sill\u00e4 niist\u00e4 l\u00f6ytyy aina valmistajan leima. Valmistajaleiman lis\u00e4ksi pit\u00e4isi l\u00f6yty\u00e4 vuosileima ja pitoisuusleima. N\u00e4iden perusteella voidaan l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4 kaikki tarvittavat tiedot jopa valmistuskaupunkia my\u00f6den. Kaikissa aidoissa koruissa ei toki ole v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4 ihan kaikkia mainittuja leimoja, mutta yleens\u00e4 ainakin vuosileima ja pitoisuusleima l\u00f6ytyy. Yleens\u00e4 leima on helposti l\u00f6ydett\u00e4viss\u00e4 korun “nurjalta” puolelta, mutta joskus sen etsiminen voi olla ty\u00f6l\u00e4st\u00e4. Er\u00e4s vintagekauppias joskus neuvoi ett\u00e4 esim ven\u00e4l\u00e4isiss\u00e4 koruissa leima voi usein olla p\u00e4\u00e4lipuolella, koristelujen sekaan upotettuna.<\/p>\n
\nJewelry is roughly devided in two groups: real jewelry and costume jewelry. Real jewelry is made of precious metals, gold, silver and platinum and precious stones and pearls. These jewelry is easy to identify because they will always have somesort of hallmarks. There can be makers hallmark, year hallmark and content of metal. Based on these it is possible to find information, sometimes even the town where item was made. All jewelry doesn’t have all of these mentioned hallmarks, but usually atleast one or two. Most often hallmarks can be found on the backside of the jewelry, but in some cases they are tricky to find. One vintage seller told me that for example Russian jewelry often has the hallmark on frontside, hiding amongs the decorations.<\/em><\/p>\n
\n<\/strong><\/span>Eri aikakausina koruja on valmistettu erilaisin tekniikoin. Toki t\u00e4h\u00e4n vaikuttaa hyvin paljon my\u00f6s k\u00e4ytetty materiaali, mutta esim korun takaosan viimeistely voi antaa viitteit\u00e4 valmistusajasta. Koruissa on k\u00e4ytetty erilaisia lukkomekanismeja eri aikakausina joten niihin perehtyminen antaa lis\u00e4vinkkej\u00e4. Joskus simppelimm\u00e4t lukot viittaavat vanhempaan koruun, joskus taas p\u00e4invastoin. Onko koru juotettu, pr\u00e4ss\u00e4tty, valettu, kaiverrettu, koottu? Miten kivet ja helmet on kiinnitetty? Onko se yksityiskohtainen vai suurpiirteinen?<\/p>\n
\nIn different eras jewelry has been made with different techniques. Also the used material affects on this quite a bit, but sometimes you can tell for example from the backside of the item, is it new or old. There has been quite a large variety of locking mechanisms and closures on jewelry and knowing those might help dating the pieces. Sometimes simple locks point to earlier time and sometimes the other way around. Is the jewelry soldered, pressed, cast, carved, assembled? How are the stones and beads attached? Is it very detailed or more coarse?<\/em><\/p>\n
\n<\/strong><\/span>Korujen muoto kertoo paljon aikakauden tyylist\u00e4 ja j\u00e4ljittelee usein ajan muuta tyyli\u00e4, muotia, arkkitehtuuria ja muuta muotoilua. Muotiv\u00e4rit l\u00f6ytyv\u00e4t my\u00f6s koruista. Esim 50-luvulla muotia olivat toisalta simppelit jopa pelkistetyt muodot kuten py\u00f6re\u00e4t nappikorvikset ja sile\u00e4t rannerenkaat ja modernit materiaalit kuten muovi. Ja samaan aikaan toisaalta ylellinen ylenpalttisuus kuten kukkia j\u00e4ljittelev\u00e4t moniulotteiset korvakorut, kimaltavat strassikorut ja n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t charm-korut joissa riippui pieni\u00e4 figuureita tai laattoja. 50-luvun v\u00e4rimaailma on v\u00e4rikyll\u00e4ist\u00e4, kirkkaita perusv\u00e4rej\u00e4, pastellia, s\u00e4ihkett\u00e4, kirkasta muovia jonka sis\u00e4ll\u00e4 on kimaltavia konfetteja jne.<\/p>\n
\nThe actual shape and design of the jewelry tells a lot about the style of the era. It often imitates the overall design style, architecture and fashion. Fashionable colours can also be found in the jewelry. For example in 50’s in other hands very simple shapes were in fashion like round stud earrings, smooth round bracelets and modern materials like plastic. And at the same time very luxurious extravaganza was fashionable. Like floral earrings in three dimensional shape, sparkling rhinestones and large charm bracelets and necklaces which had little figurines dangling on them. Colour scheme of 50’s was very saturated, bright basic colours, shiny materials, clear plastic with shiny confetti inside etc.<\/em><\/p>\n
\nKannattaa tutkia my\u00f6s korun pinta. Vanhat korut ovat yleens\u00e4 kuluneempia ja himme\u00e4mpi\u00e4 pinnaltaan kuin modernit. Niiden v\u00e4rit voivat olla murretumpia tai haalistuneita. Kullanv\u00e4ri ei ole yht\u00e4 keltaista tai kirkasta kuin moderneissa pukukoruissa ja hopean alta voi pilkottaa kuparin tai messingin s\u00e4vy\u00e4. Joskus korun paljastaa moderniksi sen pinnan korkea kiilto vaikka muotoilu olisi muuten vanhanaikainen.<\/p>\n
\nCheck also the surface of the jewelry. Old jewelry is often more wornout, full of scratches and not so bright on the shine. Colours can be more muted and faded. Golden colour is not as yellow or bright than in modern pieces and under the silver you might find shades of copper and brass. Sometime the high shine reveals the piece is modern even though design looks old.<\/em><\/p>\n
\nVarhaiset muovit<\/a>
\nKoruker\u00e4ilij\u00e4n vinkit koruharakalle<\/a>
\nSuomalaisten kulta- ja hopeaseppien leimahaku<\/a>
\nTukesin leimarekisteri<\/a><\/p>\n
\n6 ways to test bakelite<\/a>
\nIdentifying black materials on Victorian jewelry<\/a>
\nHow to find out if your cameo is authentic<\/a>
\nIdentifying vintage brooches<\/a>
\nAll about lucite<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/a>
1. Papukaija- eli rapulukko \/ Lobster claw
2. Laatikkolukko \/ Box lock
3. Saranalukko \/ Hinge lock
4. Jousilukko \/ Spring ring
5. Koukkulukko \/ Hook and ring
6. Koukku- ja jousilukon yhdistelm\u00e4 \/ Hook and spring combo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Identify glass from plastic. Plastic beads are often pressed directly to the thread and they are very lightweight. However glass beads have holes where thread goes through. They might have seed beads or knots between them. And they weigh more than plastic. On the left side of pale green glassbeads all beads are glass. On the right side are only plastic beads. All of these are over 20 years old except large white plastic beads. I haven’t been able to date black ones though.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
1. metallia ja muovia \/metal and plastic
2. metallia \/ metal
3. pidin n\u00e4it\u00e4 ruskohiili- eli jet-helmin\u00e4, mutta ne ovat lasia \/ I thought these were jet, but they are glass
4. kive\u00e4 \/ stone
5. puuta \/ wood<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
1. riikinkukko \/ peacock
2. yl\u00e4reunan helmiovaali \/ oval of pearls on top
3. punainen \/ red
4. valkoinen lehdykk\u00e4 \/ white leaf
Vastaus postauksen lopussa. \/ Answer at the end of the post.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
This is one of my oldest piece, late 1800’s mourning jewelry. It’s been seen in the blog several times because it’s one of my favourites. It is very light so it can’t be glass. It can be either jet (fossilized wood) or ebonite (vulcanite). When I got this it didn’t have lock. So I repaired it and made new lock from wire.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Brooches pressed from thin metal, with simple c-locks. These kind of long and narrow brooches were in fashion on 1930’s so they might be from that era.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
30’s very skinny pin with three beads in the middle.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
This 80’s or 90’s brooch has much more simple design and smooth backside.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
National costume silver brooch form either Estonia or Russia. Hallmarks are on front, on the outer decoration about where my middle finger is. I saw identical in antique shop in Tallinn and asked for the price. It was almost hundred euros. I made the mistake by saying that I found identical with just couple euros from flea markert in Finland.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
One of my most charming pieces. I’m not sure how old this is, but I think it might be older than 1950’s. It is very detailed and delicate despite of it’s tiny size.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
Brooch embroidered with tiny petit point needle work. Assumably from 50’s.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
These are probably my most tricky jewelry to date. Design is very strongly 1920’s or 30’s, artdeco style. Backside is very wornout, which is obviously hinting old. Hook is weirdly very sort and it has clasp mechanism. I have never seen anything quite like that. There is clear drop-shaped beads handing on the end. I thought they were plastic. These are my favourite earrings and I wear them a lot at parties. Despite of that, those beads have not been worn out at all. They are as clear and bright as ever. I have started to wonder, could these really be authentic 1930’s earrings?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/a>
As a comparison some modern jewelry. Materials are plastic and cheap metal. Also wood and glass. Details are more simple, desing is modernistic. Colours don’t show any particular trend, there is all: muted, toned down, bright and monochromatic. Handcrafted quality (black and gray bracelet) is clearly separated from factory production.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n