{"id":13793,"date":"2018-11-08T10:49:22","date_gmt":"2018-11-08T08:49:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13793"},"modified":"2018-11-08T10:52:05","modified_gmt":"2018-11-08T08:52:05","slug":"diy-downton-abbey-esiliina-downton-abbey-apron","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13793","title":{"rendered":"DIY: Downton Abbey-esiliina \/ Downton Abbey apron"},"content":{"rendered":"

Yleens\u00e4 historianel\u00e4v\u00f6ityshommissa el\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4\u00e4\u00a0(ja n\u00e4kee)<\/strong><\/span> mieluummin v\u00e4h\u00e4n parempaa v\u00e4ke\u00e4. On nimitt\u00e4in hienommat vermeet ja hauskempaa tekemist\u00e4. Joskus on kumminkin ihan hauska el\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6s palvelusv\u00e4ke\u00e4. Joulukuussa ollaan taas is\u00e4nn\u00e4n kanssa menossa el\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n Turkuun Ett Hem-museoon ja luvassa on palvelusv\u00e4en jouluvalmisteluja. Is\u00e4nn\u00e4n\u00a0 hovimestarin asu on jo reilassa, mutta palvelusneiti tarvitsee viel\u00e4 oman asun ennen palvelukseen astumista.<\/p>\n

Varastoistani ei l\u00f6ytynyt riitt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4\u00e4 mustaa pukukangasta joten joudun sit\u00e4 viel\u00e4 etsim\u00e4\u00e4n. Niinp\u00e4 aloitin esiliinasta. Esiliina on varsin n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4, mutta suhteellisen helppo tehd\u00e4. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 resepti palvelusneidon tyyliin.<\/p>\n

Tarvikkeet<\/strong><\/span>
\nvalkoista ohutta ja tiivist\u00e4 puuvillaa
\npuuvillabrodyyri\u00e4
\nompelulankaa<\/p>\n

Leikkaa puuvillasta<\/strong><\/span>
\n– iso suorakaide jonka mitat ovat noin 1,30 x 1,10 m
\n– kolmio joka on kapeasta p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 n. 5 cm leve\u00e4 ja yl\u00e4reunasta noin 10 cm, korkeus noin 15-25 cm
\n– kaksi pitk\u00e4\u00e4 solmimisnauhaa, leveys noin 10-13 cm, pituutta saa olla v\u00e4hint\u00e4\u00e4n metrin
\n– yksi lyhyt nauha, leveys 10-13 cm
\n– kaksi vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kappaletta, leveys noin 7-8 cm, pituus 30-50 cm, noin puolet vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6si ymp\u00e4ryydest\u00e4<\/p>\n

Leikkaa brodyyrist\u00e4<\/strong><\/span>
\n– kaksi olkainnauhaa, pituus noin 30-50 cm, yl\u00e4vartalosi pituudesta riippuen
\n– n. 10-13 cm p\u00e4tk\u00e4, kolmio-palaan sopiva<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n
  1. Ompele ison suorakaiteen lyhyemmille sivuille kapeat p\u00e4\u00e4rmeet ja helmaan noin 8 cm korkea p\u00e4\u00e4rme<\/li>\n
  2. Laskosta tai rypyt\u00e4 esiliinan huolittelematon reuna ja ompele kiinni vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauhaan niin ett\u00e4 se tulee kahden vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kappaleen v\u00e4liin. Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauha voi olla t\u00e4ysin suora tai v\u00e4h\u00e4n muotoiltu kuten t\u00e4ss\u00e4.\u00a0Huomioi t\u00e4m\u00e4 helman yl\u00e4reunan muodossa.<\/li>\n
  3. Ompele kolmion yl\u00e4reunaan kiinni lyhyt brodyyri. Kiinnitystapa riippuu brodyyrin reunoista. Jos leikatut reunat, kappaleet yhdistet\u00e4\u00e4n kuten mik\u00e4 tahansa leikatut kappaleet ja saumanvarat taitetaan kaksinkerroin ja tikataan p\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4 kiinni kankaaseen. Jos taas reuna on brodyyri\u00e4, pitsi voidaan tikata tai siksakata sile\u00e4n\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4rm\u00e4tyn tai saumuroidun kankaan reunan p\u00e4\u00e4lle.<\/li>\n
  4. Kiinnit\u00e4 kolmio pitkien brodyyrienauhojen v\u00e4liin. Jos brodyyri on kovin kapeaa, sit\u00e4 voi ommella useamman rivin vierekk\u00e4in tai kiinnitt\u00e4\u00e4 sen koristeeksi tavallisen kangasolkaimen ulkoreunaan.<\/li>\n
  5. Kiinnit\u00e4 brodyyri-miehusta vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauhan yl\u00e4reunaan ensin takakappaleeseen, tikkaa sitten oikea puoli p\u00e4\u00e4lle seuraten ommeljuovaa. Taita saumanvarat vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleiden v\u00e4liin, siell\u00e4 mihin miehusta ei ylety. J\u00e4t\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleen p\u00e4\u00e4t auki.<\/li>\n
  6. Ompele kaksi pitk\u00e4\u00e4 solmimisnauhaa: taita leikatut nauhat pituussuunnassa kaksinkerroin ja ompele suoralla ompeleella noin sentin et\u00e4isyydelt\u00e4 avoimesta reunasta. Ompele toinen p\u00e4\u00e4 umpeen kaarevasti. J\u00e4t\u00e4 toinen p\u00e4\u00e4 auki ja k\u00e4\u00e4nn\u00e4 nauhat oikeinp\u00e4in.<\/li>\n
  7. Silit\u00e4 nauhat litteiksi ja ompele ne p\u00e4\u00e4llitikkauksella vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauhan p\u00e4ihin niin ett\u00e4 solmimisnauhan p\u00e4\u00e4 menee vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6nauhan sis\u00e4\u00e4n.<\/li>\n
  8. Ompele lyhyt nauha samoin, j\u00e4t\u00e4 molemmat p\u00e4\u00e4t auki ja k\u00e4\u00e4nn\u00e4 oikeinp\u00e4in.<\/li>\n
  9. Pujota toisen brodyyriolkaimen p\u00e4\u00e4 lyhyen nauhan sis\u00e4\u00e4n ja tikkaa paikoilleen.<\/li>\n
  10. Nauhan toinen p\u00e4\u00e4 ommellaan toiseen brodyyriolkaimeen, mutta tarkista ensin sen pituus p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4. Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n solmimisnauhat pujotetaan muodostuvasta lenkist\u00e4 ja lenkin pit\u00e4\u00e4 olla niin lyhyt ett\u00e4 se ulottuu juuri ja juuri vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lle ja kirist\u00e4\u00e4 olkaimet napakasti olalle.\u00a0 Lyhenn\u00e4 nauha sopivaan pituuteen, pujota brodyyriolkain toisen p\u00e4\u00e4n sis\u00e4\u00e4n ja tikkaa paikoilleen. Varmista ett\u00e4 lyhyt nauha tekee yhden kierteen ennen ompelua, silloin se taittuu sel\u00e4ss\u00e4 kauniisti.<\/li>\n
  11. Sovita esiliinaa p\u00e4\u00e4lle. Jos se tuntuu liian pitk\u00e4lt\u00e4, voit lyhent\u00e4\u00e4 sit\u00e4 viel\u00e4 lis\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 helmaan muutamia kapeita laskoksia.<\/li>\n
  12. T\u00e4rkk\u00e4\u00e4 ja silit\u00e4 esiliina huolellisesti, sill\u00e4 eih\u00e4n moitteeton, itse\u00e4\u00e4n kunnioittava palvelusv\u00e4ki esiinny ryppyisess\u00e4 esiliinassa.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

    I usually like to choose middle to high class living history characters rather than servants or peasants. They have fancier clothes and more fun things to do. However sometimes it’s interesting to choose servant character. This December me and hubby are going to do living history stuff in museum Ett Hem, in Turku. There will be Christmas preparations for the servants so it should be fun. Hubby already has butlers outfit ready, but this maid needs proper outfit before stepping into service.<\/p>\n

    I didn’t have enough black fabric for dress in my stash, so I have to search for that still. That’s why I started from apron. It is quite fancy looking, but simple to make. Here’s the recipe for your housemaid style.<\/p>\n

    You need<\/strong><\/span>
    \nthin white cotton
    \nwhite embroidered lace
    \nsewing thread<\/p>\n

    Cut from cotton<\/strong><\/span>
    \nlarge rectangular, measurements about 110 x 130 cm
    \ntriangular piece, narrow end about 5 cm wide, wide end about 10 cm wide and about 15-25 cm long
    \ntwo long ties, about 10-13 cm wide, atleast one meter long
    \none short tie, about 10-13 cm wide, length 20-35 cm
    \ntwo waistbands, about 7-8 cm wide and 30-50 cm long, about half of your waist circumference<\/p>\n

    Cut from embroidered lace<\/strong><\/span>
    \ntwo shoulder straps, about 30-50 cm long, depending on the height of your upper body
    \none short strip, about 10-13 cm long, to match the triangular piece<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

      \n
    1. Hem the shorter sides of large piece, suitable width is about 0,5 cm. Hem one of the long sides, width about 8 cm.<\/li>\n
    2. Pleat or gather the unhemmed edge of the large piece and sew the gathered edge between waistbands. Waistband can be either straight or slightly curved like mine.\u00a0\u00a0Notice the curving on the shape of the gathered edge.<\/li>\n
    3. Attach the short embroidered lace on the upper edge of triangular piece. How you do that depends on the edges of the embroidery. If edges are cut (like mine) then you can sew it like any other cut pieces, then fold the seam allowances to create tidy finish and topstitch. If edge is embroidered, then you can topstitch or zigzag it directly on the hemmed or overlocked edge of the piece.<\/li>\n
    4. Attach the triangular piece between two embroidered shoulder straps. If embroidered lace is very narrow, you can sew several strips together to make it wider, or make plain shoulder strap from plain fabric and then use embroidery as decoration on the outer edge.<\/li>\n
    5. Sew the embroidered triangular bodice piece with straps on the backpiece of the waistband, then topstitch the right side of the waistband ontop, by following the seam line, fold seam allowances between the pieces where bodice doesn’t reach. Leave waistband ends open.<\/li>\n
    6. Sew two long ties: fold straps in half lengthwise and sew leaving about 1 cm seam allowance. You can close one end with the same seam. Leave one end open so you can turn the ties inside out.<\/li>\n
    7. When you have turned ties inside out, leaving seam allowances inside, iron them flat. Place the open end of the tie inside the waistband. One on each side of the waistband and topstitch in place.<\/li>\n
    8. Sew the short tie same way, but leave both ends open, turn inside out.<\/li>\n
    9. Place end of one embroidery shoulder strap inside one end of the short tie.<\/li>\n
    10. The other shoulderstrap goes to the other end of the short strap, but first you have to measure the exact length of the strap.\u00a0 Shoulder straps should make a loop,\u00a0 long enough to just reach your waist. Waist ties go through the loop at the back and when tied, embroidered straps should feel sturdy on the shoulders so that they don’t fall.\u00a0 Shorten then short strap to desired length and sew the other embroidered strap inside the end. Make sure the strap makes no more or less than one twist! Then it folds beautifully at the back.<\/li>\n
    11. Try the apron on. If it feels too long, you can add narrow pleats on the hem, above the hemming.<\/li>\n
    12. \u00a0Finally, starch the apron because self-respecting\u00a0 proper maids don’t wear wrinkly\u00a0 aprons.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Helmap\u00e4\u00e4rme \/ Hemming<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Yl\u00e4reunan laskostus \/ Pleating<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitale \/ Waist band<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Miehustan kolmio \/ Triangular bodice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Pitsi kiinnitettyn\u00e4 \/ Embroidery attached<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Valmis miehustakolmio \/ Finished bodice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Miehustan kiinnitys vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6\u00f6n \/ Attaching bodice to waist band<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleen etuosan tikkaus \/ Stitching the front of the waist band<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Nauhojen kiinnitys vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6\u00f6n \/ Stitching ties to waist band<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Nauhojen ompelu \/ Sewing ties<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Valmiit nauhat \/ Finished ties<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Olkaimet yhdist\u00e4v\u00e4 nauha \/ Short tie connecting shoulder straps<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Olkainten kiinnitys nauhaan \/ Sewing shoulder straps into a loop<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Olkainten tarkistettu pituus \/ Loop length checked<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Helman lis\u00e4laskos \/ Additional pleat on hem<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Valmis esiliina takaa \/ Finished apron on back<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
      \"\"<\/a>
      Valmis esiliina edest\u00e4 \/ Finished apron in front<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      Yleens\u00e4 historianel\u00e4v\u00f6ityshommissa el\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4\u00e4\u00a0(ja n\u00e4kee) mieluummin v\u00e4h\u00e4n parempaa v\u00e4ke\u00e4. On nimitt\u00e4in hienommat vermeet ja hauskempaa tekemist\u00e4. Joskus on kumminkin ihan hauska el\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6s palvelusv\u00e4ke\u00e4. Joulukuussa ollaan taas is\u00e4nn\u00e4n kanssa menossa el\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n Turkuun Ett Hem-museoon ja luvassa on palvelusv\u00e4en jouluvalmisteluja. Is\u00e4nn\u00e4n\u00a0 hovimestarin asu on jo reilassa, mutta palvelusneiti tarvitsee viel\u00e4 oman asun ennen palvelukseen astumista. Varastoistani ei… <\/p>\n

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