Laaka<\/strong><\/span> I thought that by now I had learned to leave the bad shopping in the shop. But no. Last winter Hennes& Mauritz got Nasa t-shirts and hoodies. For some reason I just had to have one. I went through quite a bit of effort to get one. Finally I found them online, but there was not much sizes left. I ordered XL because their sizing has been somewhat slim in the past. Well, the t-shirt arrived. It was worse than I expected. Fabric was quite thin and flimsy and printing was already looking wornout. Perhaps on purpose, but I didn’t like the style.<\/p>\n When I opened the packaging, the shirt looked odd. It was very short and awfully wide. It didn’t fit very well, but for some reason or another, I never returned it. I used it once in the Winter and after a wash the whole truth was revealed. Shoulder seams are very sloped, neckline is pulling, fabric is cut horribly crooked. These kinds of mistakes usually are caused by way too high lay of fabrics and low quality on fabric. I have now used and washed it twice. There is a hole next to the print and a beginning of a hole below that. I have used H&M clothes quite a lot before, and they have had good quality too. For example silk blend knit I bought about 15 years ago is still good and running. Black jersey t-shirts I bought almost 10 years ago are still good. But supporting H&M ends now. I won’t be buying anything from them anymore. I recommend the same to you.<\/p>\n Cutting lay<\/strong><\/span> Vinojen olkasaumojen ansiosta p\u00e4\u00e4ntie l\u00f6rp\u00f6tt\u00e4\u00e4 ja vet\u00e4\u00e4 kohti toista <\/strong><\/span>kainaloa. Paita on leve\u00e4mpi kuin se on pitk\u00e4, eli se on v\u00e4h\u00e4n kuin j\u00e4tti-<\/strong><\/span>kokoinen napapaita. Napakan kokoiset hihat ovat vaatteessa oudosti. \/<\/strong><\/span> Reik\u00e4 ja rei\u00e4n kaveri. Kahden pesun j\u00e4lkeen. \/<\/strong><\/span> Jos katsot tarkasti n\u00e4et kankaassa vinottaisia raitoja jotka kulkevat <\/strong><\/span>olalta kohti vastakkaista kainaloa. Se on kuulkaa langansuunta jota\u00a0 <\/strong><\/span>markkeeraa pinkki katkoviiva. Sen kuuluisi t\u00e4mm\u00f6isess\u00e4 vaatteessa <\/strong><\/span>olla kutakuinkin vaakasuorassa, kuten valkoinen katkoviiva.\u00a0 <\/strong><\/span>Valkoinen viiva n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 mik\u00e4 kuuluisi olla olkalinjan ja k\u00e4dentien muoto.\u00a0 <\/strong><\/span>K\u00e4dentie, eli sauma johon hiha kiinnittyy, kuuluu t\u00e4m\u00e4n tyyppisess\u00e4 <\/strong><\/span>vaatteessa pudota olalta kutakuinkin viivasuoraan l\u00e4hes kainaloon asti, <\/strong><\/span>ei kaartua tuolla tavalla lapaluuta kohti kuten vasemmalla. \/
\nTekstiiliteollisuudessa laa’aksi kutsutaan kangaspinoa johon kangasta on levitetty sile\u00e4sti kerroksittain. Kaavakappaleet asetellaan laakaan mahdollisimman ekonomisesti niin ett\u00e4 hukkapaloja j\u00e4\u00e4 mahdollisimman v\u00e4h\u00e4n. T\u00e4m\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen laaka, joka voi olla useita kymmeni\u00e4 metrej\u00e4 pitk\u00e4 ja yli metrin korkea, leikataan. Teollisuudessa laa’at leikataan joko t\u00e4ysin tietokoneavusteisesti, puoliautomaattisesti tai k\u00e4sik\u00e4ytt\u00f6isesti korkeilla pystyleikkureilla jotka muistuttavat v\u00e4h\u00e4n vannesahaa. Korkeissa laa’oissa kangasta voi olla jopa satoja kerroksia p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4in. Korkeilla laakoilla pyrit\u00e4\u00e4n minimoimaan valmistuskustannuksia. Sanomattakin on selv\u00e4\u00e4 ett\u00e4 kankaiden levitysvaiheessa alimmat kerrokset saattavat menn\u00e4 kieroon tai veny\u00e4. Jos kangas on l\u00f6rpp\u00e4\u00e4 tai muuten heikkolaatuista, sit\u00e4 suurempi todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isyys on ett\u00e4 laakassa tulee leikkuuvirheit\u00e4. Kankaan venyminen leikkuuvaiheessa aiheuttaa mittavirheit\u00e4 pituuteen ja virheet yleens\u00e4 kertautuvat. Tied\u00e4t t\u00e4m\u00e4n jos olet koskaan yritt\u00e4nyt leikata useampaa kerrosta paperia yhdell\u00e4 kertaa.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/inenglish.gif\")
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\nCutting lay is a pile of smooth layers of fabric, spread on top of each other. Patterns are placed ontop of the lay as economically as possible. So that there is as little scraps as possible. After this lay, which can be several dozens of meters long and over one meter high, is cut. In industry lays are cut either completely computerised way, semi- automatically or by hand, with high tower cutters. Highest lays can have hundreds of layers of fabric. High lays are done to minimize manufacturing cost. It goes without saying, that when laying the fabric, lower layers can get stretched or crooked. If fabric is low quality and not sturdy enough, the more likely it is to cutting errors to occur. Fabric stretching at the cutting causes measure errors on length and those errors tend to multyply. You know what it means if you have ever tried cutting multiple layers of paper in one go.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nSloped shoulders make the neckline too loose and drape oddly. It is <\/strong><\/span><\/em>also weirdly pulling to one arm. Shirt is wider than it’s long, which <\/strong><\/span><\/em>makes it like giant crop top. Sleeves are just plain odd for the fit.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nHole and it’s buddy. After just two washes.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nIf you look closely, you see diagonal stripes going from one shoulder <\/em>to the opposite armpit (pink line). That is the fabric grain. It’s supposed <\/em>to be pretty much straight, like the white line. White line also shows <\/em>the correct shape of shoulders and armhole where sleeves are sewn. <\/em>On t-shirt the armhole is suppose to drop along pretty much straight line <\/em>from shoulder towards armpit, not create sharp curve towards your back.\u00a0 <\/em>Like it’s doing on the left side.\u00a0<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n