Kun luukujat oli ommeltu (tein ne koneella)<\/strong><\/span>, pujotin m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4mittoihin p\u00e4tkityt luut paikoilleen. K\u00e4ytin t\u00e4h\u00e4n ensimm\u00e4iseen kureliiviin muovista paksuhkoa nippusidett\u00e4. Minulla on my\u00f6skin autenttisempaa rottinkia olemassa, mutta ajattelin ett\u00e4 k\u00e4yt\u00e4n sit\u00e4 sitten vasta seuraavaan kureliiviin ja t\u00e4m\u00e4 ensimm\u00e4inen harjoituskappale saa menn\u00e4 nyt v\u00e4h\u00e4n halvemmalla materiaalilla. Jokaisen luun p\u00e4\u00e4t py\u00f6ristin sulattamalla etteiv\u00e4t ne revi kangasta pujotettaessa. Luun pit\u00e4\u00e4 olla muutama milli lyhyempi kuin varsinainen kuja on. Ny\u00f6rityksen reunoihin pujotin kahdet nippusiteet tukevoittamaan ny\u00f6rityst\u00e4.<\/p>\n Luiden pujottamisen j\u00e4lkeen kavensin saumanvaroja hieman, k\u00e4\u00e4nsin ne nurjalle kappaleen reunaa my\u00f6den ja harsin litte\u00e4ksi paikoilleen. Nyt on kasa kureliivin kappaleita irrallisena. Ne ommeltaisiin yhteen k\u00e4sin vahatulla pellavalangalla kappaleiden reunoista niin ett\u00e4 reunat tulivat vastakkain. (Tosin ajan s\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4miseksi fuskasin ihan v\u00e4h\u00e4n ja ompelin kiinnitt\u00e4v\u00e4t saumat koneella ensin ja sitten vasta harsin saumanvarat nurjalle.)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0Sitten ompelin reunoja kiert\u00e4v\u00e4n kantin. Koska luut tulevat aivan kappaleiden reunoihin asti, pit\u00e4\u00e4 kantti ommella kokonaan k\u00e4sin, molemmilta puolilta. Lopuksi ompelin nelj\u00e4nneksi kerrokseksi vuorin, joka kiinnitet\u00e4\u00e4n nurjalle k\u00e4sin. Viimeisen\u00e4 pujotin ny\u00f6rit paikoilleen. Etuosaan k\u00e4ytin koristeellista viskoosiny\u00f6ri\u00e4 ja taakse litte\u00e4\u00e4 puuvillanauhaa.<\/p>\n Toisin kuin monet korsetit nykyaikana, kureliivi oli 1700-luvulla aina alusvaate. Kureliiviss\u00e4 julkisesti n\u00e4ytt\u00e4ytyv\u00e4 sai huonon maineen sill\u00e4 h\u00e4n oli puolipukeissa joka ei ollut sopivaa. Siit\u00e4 saattoi jopa joutua jalkapuuhun. Tosin pastoraalisissa maalauksissa ja n\u00e4ytelmiss\u00e4 kukkais- ja paimentyt\u00f6t saattoivat esiinty\u00e4 ilman kureliivin peitt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 pukua. Kureliivin alle puetaan pitk\u00e4helmainen aluspaita, chemise. P\u00e4\u00e4lle tulee alushame, hame ja varsinainen puku. Koska sit\u00e4 pukua ei nyt viel\u00e4 ole niin min\u00e4 puin tapahtumaan kureliivin alushameen ja hameen p\u00e4\u00e4lle.<\/p>\n Hameen ompeluun meni parisen tuntia sill\u00e4 se on todella yksinkertainen. Ompelin kaksi noin 80 sentin pituista p\u00e4tk\u00e4\u00e4 koko kankaan leveydest\u00e4 leikattuna sivuista yhteen renkaaksi. J\u00e4tin toiseen p\u00e4\u00e4h\u00e4n saumaa n. 20 cm mittainen halkio. Helma-r\u00f6yhel\u00f6 on nelj\u00e4 kertaa kankaan leveydest\u00e4 leikattuna noin 20 cm p\u00e4tk\u00e4t jotka ommellaan p\u00e4ist\u00e4 yhteeksi isoksi renkaaksi. Rengas rypytet\u00e4\u00e4n tai laskostetaan hameen helmaan. Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n laskostin vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleeseen niin ett\u00e4 reunat menev\u00e4t sivuissa hieman p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4in. Molempiin sivuihin j\u00e4i ne avoimet halkiot. Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleisiin ompelin molempiin p\u00e4ihin solmimisnauhat, yhteens\u00e4 nelj\u00e4 kappaletta. Kaikki 1700-luvun hameet ja alushameet voidaan tehd\u00e4 t\u00e4ll\u00e4 samalla mallilla.\u00a0P\u00e4\u00e4lle hame puetaan niin ett\u00e4 ensin solmitaan takaosan nauhat etupuolelle vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n ymp\u00e4ri ja sitten etuosan nauhat taakse. Kun alla on tukeva kureliivi, eiv\u00e4t tiukallekaan solmitut hameen ny\u00f6rit puristu vatsanahkaan.<\/p>\n I have finally finished my 1700’s stays project. It only took me about five years. It was pretty much five years ago in August when I did the first post in my blog about the stays. I don’t really enjoy making corsets, they are so tiresome to do, but I’ve done couple. This is my first actual 1700’s corset. Couple years ago I made so called transitional stays, which were used when moving from Rococo style towards Regency. They are only very lightly supported by boning and they have breast cups, little bit like modern bustiers or basques do.<\/p>\n However this fully boned 1740’s stays is totally different animal. It has three layers of fabric and whole corset is full with bones. It is sewn in a bit different order than any normal garments. First Icut all the pieces on three fabrics and wide seam allowances. Three layers are needed because the top material can be fine silk or other decorative material which is too thin to hold the boning inside. Sturdy material is either tightly woven linen or cotton coutil (allthough coutil is not historically accurate for the era)<\/strong><\/span>. Firstly I stitched all three layers together on each piece, following the actual pattern edge. Then I sew all boning channels. I copied the angles of boning from the stays I found online, I’m not sure if there are certain rules for them. You can also sew the holes for lacing. It’s much easier to do it now, before the bones are in place. These stays have over 40 holes.<\/p>\n When I finished sewing the bone channels (I did it with machine), I cut the bones and poked them into the channels. I used thick plasting binding. I do have proper authentic reed too, but I thought that this is a prototype so I use something cheaper. I melted each end of the bones to make it smooth. Bone must be couple millimeters shorter than the channel.\u00a0\u00a0I also added two bones on both sides of lacing to make it sturdy.<\/p>\n After that I trimmed the seam allowances, folded them to the reverse side and whip stitched in place. Now was time to connect the pieces together by hand with waxed linen thread. (Allthough I wanted to save some time and did this by machine and after that whip stitched the seam allowances). Next job was to sew the edge binding. It is cotton bias tape which I sew by hand, on both sides. Last thing to do was to sew on the lining by hand. Finishing touch was adding the ribbons. I used decorative viscose ribbon in front and flat cotton tape on back.<\/p>\n Unlike modern corsets, stays were undergarment in 1700’s. Showing your stays in public was not decent, you might have got bad reputation or even some sort of punishment like stocks. Allthough pastoral paintings and plays might have showed flowergirls or shepards wearing just stays and petticoats. Chemise, long under shirt goes under the stays, petticoat goes over them, then the skirt and then the actual gown. I don’t have the gown yet so I had to wear just the petticoat and skirt with my stays for the Summer event.<\/p>\n It took me couple hours to sew the skirt because it is really simple. I had two 80 cm long pieces of fabric which I connected on sides. I left about 20 cm long opening on one end of the seam, on both sides. Hem ruffle is four times the width of the fabric and 20 cm high.\u00a0 They make a really long circle. circle is then gathered and sewn on the hem of the skirt. Waistline is pleated to the waistband. There is two separate waistbands, which overlap on both sides. There is also ribbons on both ends of both waistbands, to tie the skirt around the waist. All skirts of 1700’s can be made with this same model. You put the skirt on so that first you tie the backside around your waist, and then the front. When you have stays under, it doesn’t feel like sticking into your skin.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Kureliiviprojekti on viimeinkin saatettu p\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6kseen. Eih\u00e4n siin\u00e4 mennytk\u00e4\u00e4n kuin vaatimattomat viisi vuotta. Aika tarkkaan viisi vuotta sitten olen tehnyt blogiin ensimm\u00e4isen postauksen kureliivej\u00e4 koskien. En erityisemmin nauti korsettien ja kureliivien tekemisest\u00e4 koska ne ovat niin suurit\u00f6isi\u00e4, mutta muutamia on niit\u00e4kin tullut tehty\u00e4. T\u00e4m\u00e4 on ensimm\u00e4inen 1700-luvun mallinen. Viimeksi parisen vuotta sitten tein ns. v\u00e4limallin kureliivin… <\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/inenglish.gif\")
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