Nyth\u00e4n on niin ett\u00e4 nypl\u00e4yslangat ovat kovin ohutta tavaraa ja pelk\u00e4sin ett\u00e4 ne tarttuvat kiinni puiseen pirtaan. Siksi olin n\u00e4pp\u00e4r\u00e4sti jo aiemmin ehtinyt hiukan viilaamaan py\u00f6r\u00f6viilalla pirran reiki\u00e4 reunoilta sile\u00e4mmiksi. Homma oli aika fiksu veto, sill\u00e4 kutoessa huomasin ett\u00e4 pellavaloimi tosiaan tarttuu jopa niihin siloteltuihin pirran reikiin hiukan. Muovisen pirran kanssa t\u00e4t\u00e4 ongelmaa ei ehk\u00e4 olisi, mutta el\u00e4v\u00f6itystapahtumia silm\u00e4ll\u00e4 pit\u00e4\u00e4en halusin autenttisemman n\u00e4k\u00f6isen ty\u00f6kalun. Pellava my\u00f6s kuluu helposti. T\u00e4st\u00e4 syyst\u00e4 mm. pellavainen ompelulanka vahataan, ett\u00e4 se kest\u00e4\u00e4 kulutusta paremmin eik\u00e4 hiudu ommellessa poikki. Onneksi valmis nauha ei joudu p\u00e4\u00e4hineess\u00e4 kulutukselle, muutoin nauha saattaisi olla turhan lyhytik\u00e4inen.<\/p>\n
Itse kutominen on periaatteeltaan varsin simppeli\u00e4 hommaa: pirtaa nostetaan, vied\u00e4\u00e4n sukkula viri\u00f6st\u00e4 l\u00e4pi toiselle puolelle, kiristet\u00e4\u00e4n lanka, pirta\u00a0lasketaan, vied\u00e4\u00e4n sukkula uudesta viri\u00f6st\u00e4 l\u00e4pi takaisin p\u00e4in, kiristet\u00e4\u00e4n lanka. Vaikuttaa helpolta. Kinkkisemp\u00e4\u00e4 hommasta tulee siin\u00e4 kohtaa kun langat t\u00e4ytyy pit\u00e4\u00e4 koko ajan sopivalla kireydell\u00e4. Jos loimi on liian l\u00f6ys\u00e4ll\u00e4 viri\u00f6 ei avaudu. Toisaalta lointa ei saa pit\u00e4\u00e4 niin kire\u00e4ll\u00e4 ett\u00e4 loimilangat alkavat katkeilla. Kangaspuissa loimi pysyy mekaniikan ansiosta kire\u00e4ll\u00e4, nauhapirrassa se kiristet\u00e4\u00e4n itse omalla vartalolla kutomakireyteen. Kude taas pit\u00e4\u00e4 kirist\u00e4\u00e4 tarpeeksi niin ett\u00e4 loimi kiristyy leveyssuuntaan riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n tiiviiksi nauhaksi, jossa kude ei kuulla v\u00e4leist\u00e4, mutta samalla reuna on my\u00f6skin suhteellisen sile\u00e4 eik\u00e4 kupruile tai kude j\u00e4\u00e4 reunaan lenkille. Minulla meni alussa v\u00e4h\u00e4n lointa hukkaan kun en \u00e4lynnyt kirist\u00e4\u00e4 riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n tiiviiksi ja nauhan keskelt\u00e4 paistaa p\u00e4iv\u00e4 l\u00e4pi. Noin 15 cm j\u00e4lkeen opin kirist\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n kuteen tarpeeksi tiukalle. Onneksi loimessa on tarkoituksella v\u00e4h\u00e4n ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4ist\u00e4 pituutta.<\/p>\n
Valmiin nauhan pituus tulee olemaan noin kaksi metri\u00e4, itsell\u00e4ni on nyt valmiina noin kolmannes. En ole ehtinyt keskiaikatapahtuman j\u00e4lkeen hirve\u00e4sti kutoa. Itse huntu valmistetaan kahdesta pellavakankaan palasta jotka kiinnitet\u00e4\u00e4n yhteen reik\u00e4ompeleella. Vaihtoehtoisesti reik\u00e4ompeleen voi korvata revinn\u00e4isty\u00f6ll\u00e4. Kun se on valmis, koko huntu taitellaan, pliseerataan ja t\u00e4rk\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n. Pliseerattu huntu kiinnitet\u00e4\u00e4n solmien kankaalla p\u00e4\u00e4llystetyn renkaan ymp\u00e4rille. Pirtanauha pujotetaan renkaaseen hunnun alle. En ole viel\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4tt\u00e4nyt teenk\u00f6 hunnun koristeen revinn\u00e4isen\u00e4 vai reik\u00e4ompeleena. Revinn\u00e4inen on helpompi, ja nopeampi tehd\u00e4, mutta reik\u00e4ommel n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 ehk\u00e4 n\u00e4timm\u00e4lt\u00e4. No minulla on t\u00e4ss\u00e4 aikaa viel\u00e4 mietti\u00e4 sill\u00e4 kangas on viel\u00e4 kaupassa. En pid\u00e4 t\u00e4ll\u00e4 projektilla mit\u00e4\u00e4n kiirett\u00e4. Valmistuu kun valmistuu. Seuraavan kerran kuulette huntuprojektista varmaan siin\u00e4 vaiheessa kun p\u00e4\u00e4sen hunnun ompelun kimppuun.<\/p>\n
I have mentioned\u00a0 my national costume veil project so many times you must be sick of it by now. Today is our National Independence\u00a0 Day so I wanted to talk about this traditional handwork. Veil is finally on the go. When my grandmother and mum made the costume in the 80’s, there wasn’t any instructions for the veil available. But now there is, and I have it! I do have the original ribbon, s\u00e4pp\u00e4li, but that is now considered to be children’s accessory, so I don’t want to wear it with my costume. And hey, look at the great veil, it is something else isn’t it! It is one of the largest veils in Finnish national costumes, if not the largest.<\/p>\n Under the veil is supposed to be traditional tape loom ribbon (this is the name that I found in English, I don’t know is there is better one?)<\/strong><\/span>. I thought it would be relatively easy thing to start with. I bought second hand tape loom and little later I already had the linen yarns too. Our local yarn shop didn’t have the right yarn, so I ordered it directly from Soja Murto who is the stockist of Finnish national costume supply. I got them just in time for the Turku medieval event last Summer. I made the warp to the loom the night before the event. Thankfully I had proper instructions for it, otherwise I never would have been able to handle it myself. There is two colour options for the ribbon, with blue edges or with red edges. Middle part is the same colour in both. I chose the one with red edges.<\/p>\n Ribbon is made with linen bobbin lace yarns, which are very very fine. I was afraid they might get caught on the wooden loom. That’s why I sanded the holes on the looms with round file, before building the warp. That was clever move, because I noticed when I started to weave that yarns really did that, even to the sanded holes. With plastic loom this might not occur, but I wanted to have more traditional tool for living history events. Linen also wears off quite easily, that’s why if you are hand sewing with linen, you should always wax the thread. It makes it more durable. Thankfully the ribbon is not going to suffer from heavy wear on the veil.<\/p>\n The weaving is quite simple thing. Just lift the loom, take your shuttle through to the other side, tighten the yarn, lower the loom, take shuttle back to the other side, tighten and so forth. Seems easy. Trickier it becomes when you have to keep the threads at even tension at all times. Warp must be tight enough for easy weaving but not too tight so that it snaps. It is easier on proper weaving loom which keeps it automatically on even tension.\u00a0 Weft must be tightened enough to keep the ribbon tight and even on width. It took me awhile to get it right and about 15 cm from the beginning is too loose. Thankfully I got some extra length on the warp.<\/p>\n Finished ribbon is going to be about two meters long. I have now about one third of it ready. I haven’t really had much time to weave since the medieval event. The veil itself will be made of two pieces of linen fabric, which are connected together with sewn lace. When veils is ready, it is folded and then pleated and starched. Pleated veil is wrapped around large ring, which is first covered with thin fabric strips. Ribbon goes on the ring, under the veil and shows when veil moves. There is two different options to make the lace connecting the two veil pieces. I haven’t decided which I’m going to make. One is faster and easier than the other, but the other is slightly prettier, I think. I still have time to think about it, because I don’t even have the fabric yet. I’m not rushing this project. It will be finished, when it’s finished. Next time you will hear about it when I start sewing the veil itself.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/inenglish.gif?resize=214%2C100\")
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This is my only photo where veil can been seen atleast somehow. Veil was borrowed from Mari Varonen who writes Finnish Kansallispuvussa blog, where she posts about her national costume collection. Photo was taken by a friend and I don’t have larger version of it, unfortunately.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/kaukolanhuntu4.jpg?resize=800%2C1182\")
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Borrowed veil. It is tied arround small ring.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/kaukolanhuntu3.jpg?resize=800%2C1199\")
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Borrowed veil. You can see the ribbon here tied on the ring. Comb makes it easier to wear, but originally there would have not been one. Veil would have been tied around ring made of hair or small wood branches and attached with hairpins.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/kaukolanhuntu_langat.jpg?resize=800%2C669\")
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Warp is made and weaving started. Still practicing the correct tightness.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/kaukolanhuntu1.jpg?resize=800%2C1212\")
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In these instructions by Vuorelma ( (c) Leena Pursiainen) is a drawn picture what the veil should look like. Asymmetrical shape, folds and pleats make it look very lively and extravagant. Warp has been crochet so that it stays tidy and doesn’t tangle when not weaving.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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