Min\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4tin tunkea itseni mukaan H\u00e4meen keskiaikaseuran porukoihin el\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n linnaan. K\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6ss\u00e4 siis koketeeraamaan keskiaikapuvussa ja tekem\u00e4\u00e4n jotakin aikakauteen sopivaa k\u00e4sity\u00f6t\u00e4 linnassa vierailevan yleis\u00f6n iloksi. Aikaa asun tekemiseen ei ollut taaskaan liiemm\u00e4lti, joten valitsin simppelin saksalaistyylisen kirtlen samettikoristein.\u00a0Pellavaista aluspaitaa en ehtinyt\u00a0viel\u00e4\u00a0tehd\u00e4. T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa puin puvun alle Kaukolan kansallispuvun paidan joka sopi tyylillisesti oikein hyvin kirtlen kanssa koska se muistuttaa hiukan renesanssipaitaa. My\u00f6hemmin aion viel\u00e4 tehd\u00e4 sen oikean\u00a0 renesanssialuspaidan, johon teen mustalankakirjontaa. Se on tyypillinen tuon aikakauden kirjontatapa.<\/p>\n
Ollakseen mahdollisimman monik\u00e4ytt\u00f6inen, tei puvusta hihattoman. Renesanssiajalla oli tavallista ett\u00e4 hihat olivat irtoversiot, jotka solmittiin kiinni olalle ny\u00f6rein tai nauhoin. Voin siis tehd\u00e4 irtohihat viel\u00e4 my\u00f6hemmin. Vihre\u00e4-valkoista villakangasta j\u00e4i viel\u00e4 sen verran ett\u00e4 se riitt\u00e4\u00e4 hihoihin. En en\u00e4\u00e4 muista mist\u00e4 sain kankaan. Ehk\u00e4 kirppikselt\u00e4 tai \u00e4idilt\u00e4ni. Samettia puolestaan j\u00e4i sen verran ett\u00e4 siit\u00e4 riitt\u00e4\u00e4 pieneen hihattomaan boleromaiseen vaatteeseen, partletiin. Sit\u00e4 k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n yl\u00e4osan peittona viile\u00e4mm\u00e4ll\u00e4 ilmalla. Sametinpalan j\u00e4tti j\u00e4lkeens\u00e4 Cherise Designin Lea, joka muutti viimesyksyn\u00e4 ison rapakon taa.<\/p>\n
Renesanssiajalla, kuten vanhaan aikaan muulloinkaan, eiv\u00e4t naiset kulkeneet paljasp\u00e4in, joten asun pakollinen varuste on birgittamyssy. Se on pellavainen takaa rypytetty p\u00e4\u00e4hine joka peitt\u00e4\u00e4 hiukset. Myssyss\u00e4 on lenkkim\u00e4inen nauha joka kiedotaan kahdesti p\u00e4\u00e4n ymp\u00e4ri. Turun linnassa asukokonaisuuden t\u00e4ydensi viel\u00e4 raidallinen esiliina jonka olen ostanut joitakin vuosia sitten kirpputorilta. My\u00f6hemmin saatan tehd\u00e4 pukuun yksiv\u00e4risen v\u00e4rillisen esiliinan.<\/p>\n
Itse tapahtuma oli tosi j\u00e4nnitt\u00e4v\u00e4 ja hauska. Linna oli t\u00e4ynn\u00e4 yleis\u00f6\u00e4 ja opastettuja kierroksia oli tiiviiseen tahtiin. Minulla oli mukana nauhapirta, jossa on nyt ty\u00f6n alla Kaukolan kansallispuvun hunnun pirtanauha. Ajattelin, ett\u00e4 tapahtuma olisi hyv\u00e4 ajankohta aloittaa huntuprojektia. Kerron siit\u00e4 tarkemmin lis\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6hemmin. Ihmisi\u00e4 tuntui kovasti kiinnostavan pirtanauhan tekeminen, my\u00f6s lapset tulivat katsomaan miten nauha muodostuu pirrassa. T\u00e4m\u00e4 oli itselleni ensimm\u00e4inen kerta el\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4 renesanssia. Oikein mukava kokemus ja l\u00e4hden mieluusti uudelleenkin. Seuraava el\u00e4v\u00f6itystapahtuma johon aion osallistua onkin 1700-luvun piknik Mustion linnassa elokuussa. Sit\u00e4 varten pit\u00e4isi ehti\u00e4 ommella 1740-luvun kureliivi ja robe a l’anglaise. Apua!<\/p>\n
I have regressed. Moved back in time. Slipped from Rococo to renaissance. Shifted to the Medieval times. I have heard this can happen when you start doing living history. You just innocently think that you want to make one pretty Rococo gown, and then all of a sudden you got all of your wardrobes and suitcases full of all sorts of historical garments from Medieval times to Edwardian. I’m afraid, I might be a victim of living history.<\/p>\n Recently I finished my first Renaissance gown. Early Medieval time is not really my forte, but I like Renaissance aesthetics very much. Atleast here in Finland, early 1500’s is still considered Medieval era. There was Medieval fair in Turku just at the end of June and lots of activities in the castle too.<\/p>\n I decided to join in with the H\u00e4me medieval association living history group. Living history basically means doing some historically accurate activities while wearing historical garments. In my case it meant handcrafting. I didn’t have much time to make the outfit so I chose simple German style kirtle with velvet decoration. I didn’t have time to make the authentic linen chemise, so I wore my national costume blouse with the kirtle. It actually suits the style very well because it is similar to the renaissance chemise. Later when I have time, I will make proper chemise too, with black embroidery. It is typical for the era.<\/p>\n To be as practical as possible, I made sleeveless kirtle. In Renaissance era, it was quite common to have detachable sleeves. They were tied with ribbons on the shoulder. So I can make sleeves later. I still have just enough woolmix fabric left for sleeves. I don’t remember where I got the fabric from. Perhaps it was thrifted or perhaps mum gave it to me. Velvet was left behind by my colleague Lea from Cherise Design. She moved to United States last Autumn and left some stuff behind. There was enough for making the decoration and there is still big enough piece for making partlet. It’s vest-type top which is worn ontop on cooler weather. I will make that later too.<\/p>\n During Renaissance era, like any other old era, women always wore something on their heads. Only children showed bare heads. So mandatory accessory is St Birgit cap. It’s made of linen, covers hair almost completely and has a circular tie, which goes around the head twice. For Turku castle I also wore stripey apron. I have bought it from flea market some years ago. Later I will make another apron in solid colour to go with the dress.<\/p>\n The event itself was pretty exciting and fun. Castle was full of audience and guided tours were going on every 20 minutes. I had my ribbon reed with me. I am currently making ribbon for my national costume. It was good opportunity to finally start the veil project for the national costume, since my granny did not make one when she made the costume. I will tell you more about that project later. There was lots of people who were interested in the ribbon weaving. Even kids came to look at how it’s done. This was my first time re-enacting Renaissance but I enjoyed it very much. I am sure to do it again. Next living history event for me will be 1700’s picnic in Mustio castle, in August. For that I have to finish my 1740’s stays and robe a l’anglaise. Help!<\/p>\n Varsin simppelit kaavakappaleet, etukappaleen keskietuun muotoilin Takakappale on yht\u00e4 yksinkertainen, ilman muotolaskoksia. \/<\/strong><\/span> Samettikoristeet kiinnitin kokonaan k\u00e4sin. \/<\/strong><\/span> Birgittamyssyn muoto on t\u00e4m\u00e4. Pienensin myssy\u00e4 t\u00e4st\u00e4 viel\u00e4 hiukan kun\u00a0<\/strong><\/span> Sitten ommellaan etureunaan nauha joka muodostaa kiinte\u00e4n lenkin. Puvun helma on kaksi suorakaidetta jotka on ommeltu p\u00e4ist\u00e4 yhteen. Valmis puku. \/ Finished kirtle.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Esiliinan olisi tietysti voinut silitt\u00e4\u00e4 ennen reissuunl\u00e4ht\u00f6\u00e4.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span> Ei se ole linna eik\u00e4 mik\u00e4\u00e4n jossa ei paria ritaria k\u00e4yskentele. \/<\/strong><\/span>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/inenglish.gif\")
<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nkaarta\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>rintavarustuksen mukaan. Mit\u00e4\u00e4n muotolaskoksia n\u00e4iss\u00e4 ei ole.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nK\u00e4ytin kaavan pohjana jotakin valmista yl\u00e4osan kaavaani. Ruudukas<\/strong><\/span>
\npuuvilla on tukikangas joka napakoittaa miehustan. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nVery simple pattern. Center front is curved, according to bust. As you<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nnotice, there is no darts at all. I used one of my plain bodice patterns<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nas a base for this. Chequered fabric is support material, it makes<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nthe bodice sturdier.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nBack pieces is equally simple, no darts.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nVelvet decoration is completely handsewn.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\narvioin p\u00e4\u00e4ni koon v\u00e4h\u00e4n turhan isoksi. P\u00e4\u00e4laella kulkee sauma joka
\non niskasta noin viiden sentin matkalta avoin. Alareuna ja py\u00f6ristetty
\nkulma rypytet\u00e4\u00e4n\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>tiiviisti\u00a0<\/strong>nuppineulaan\u00a0<\/strong>asti<\/strong>. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nThis is the shape of the St Birgit cap. I made it slightly smaller than this,<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nI first estimated my head a bit larger than it is. There is seam on top of
\nthe head, which is open on the neckline about five centimeters. Bottom
\nedge and rounded corner is tightly gathered all the way to the pin on
\nthe left.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nSen pit\u00e4\u00e4 yletty\u00e4\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>p\u00e4\u00e4n ymp\u00e4ri kahteen kertaan. Niskasta ristiin ja
\notsalle ristiin ja loput takaraivolle. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nThen long ribbon is sewn on the front edge, it creates long loop.
\n<\/strong><\/span><\/em>It has to reach\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>twice around the head. From neck to front
\nwhere it crosses and then back.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nToinen sauma on\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>keskell\u00e4 takana ja toinen keskell\u00e4 edess\u00e4. Helman
\nyl\u00e4reuna vetopoimutettiin ja ommeltiin\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>miehustan alareunaan
\nvahatulla pellavalangalla. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nHem is two rectangular pieces sewn together on the ends. Other seam is
\ncenter back\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>and the other center front. Top of the hem is\u00a0cartridge pleated
\n<\/span>and\u00a0sewn to the bottom of the bodice with waxed linen thread.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nKuvasta kiitos Nora Juuselalle. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nI could have ironed the apron before the trip.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nPhoto thanks to Nora Juusela.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nIt’s not a castle of much, if there isn’t couple knights around.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n