{"id":13577,"date":"2018-06-13T11:44:56","date_gmt":"2018-06-13T08:44:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13577"},"modified":"2018-12-01T15:34:34","modified_gmt":"2018-12-01T13:34:34","slug":"kansallispuvun-hameen-pidennys-altering-the-national-costume-skirt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13577","title":{"rendered":"Kansallispuvun hameen pidennys \/ Altering the national costume skirt"},"content":{"rendered":"

T\u00e4n\u00e4 kev\u00e4\u00e4n\u00e4 olen tehnyt ehk\u00e4 \u00e4rsytt\u00e4vimm\u00e4n ompeluhomman vuosiin. Tajusin viime syksyn\u00e4, ett\u00e4 kansallispukuni hameen helmassahan on kymmenisen sentti\u00e4 k\u00e4\u00e4nnett\u00e4.\u00a0Puku on tehty\u00a0 80-luvun tyylin mukaan, lyhyemm\u00e4ksi kuin nykyajatus hameen pituudesta ja olen koko ajan pit\u00e4nyt hametta itselleni v\u00e4h\u00e4n turhan lyhyen\u00e4.Hame kuului mummulleni joka oli my\u00f6s minua hiukan lyhyempi. Facebookin Kansallispuku-ryhm\u00e4ss\u00e4 bongasin keskustelua hameen pident\u00e4misest\u00e4 ja ryhdyin hommiin.<\/p>\n

Helmat neuvottiin pident\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4. Eli sek\u00e4 helmak\u00e4\u00e4nne ett\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6 puretaan auki, k\u00e4\u00e4nnet\u00e4\u00e4n helma yl\u00f6salaisin ja ommellaan uusi helmak\u00e4\u00e4nne ja vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6. N\u00e4in helmassa ollut vanha taite ei j\u00e4\u00e4 niin silmiinpist\u00e4v\u00e4sti n\u00e4kyviin vaan menee osin piiloon esiliinan ja liivin alle. Kaukolan tarkistamattomassa puvussa hame on nykyisin suositun (ja suositellun)<\/strong><\/span> vetopoimutuksen sijaan k\u00e4sin laskostettu ja pliseerattu. En halunnut alkaa pliseeraamaan helmaa uudestaan joten p\u00e4\u00e4tin harsia laskokset kiinni pesun ajaksi. Hametta ei luultavasti ole kertaakaan pesty joten halusin pest\u00e4 sen raikastaakseni sit\u00e4, mutta my\u00f6s h\u00e4ivytt\u00e4\u00e4kseni taitetta ja k\u00e4\u00e4nteen nurinkurisia laskoksia.<\/p>\n

Pesua varten harsin laskokset kiinni. Ensin olin liian innokas ja sitten liian laiska, todellisuudessa harsinlangat olivat p\u00e4iss\u00e4 tiiviimmin ja keskell\u00e4 harvemmin. Tasaisemmin tehdyt harsinnat olisivat olleet viel\u00e4 paremmat, mutta ajoivat nytkin asiansa. Harsiminen kesti ikuisuuden. Aloitin homman joskus joulukuun lopussa ja se valmistui kes\u00e4kuun alussa. Olkoonkin, ett\u00e4 v\u00e4liss\u00e4 oli pitki\u00e4 taukoja kun en harsinut lainkaan.<\/p>\n

Asiantuntijat suosittelivat ompelemaan helmaan pellavaisen helmakaitaleen k\u00e4\u00e4nteeksi. Itsell\u00e4ni oli v\u00e4h\u00e4n kiire eik\u00e4 edes pellavaa k\u00e4ytett\u00e4viss\u00e4 joten j\u00e4tin sen pois ja k\u00e4\u00e4nsin vain reunasta sentin verran k\u00e4sin ommellen ja kiinnitin sen j\u00e4lkeen palmikkonauhan hamekankaan reunaan. Samoin suositellaan ett\u00e4 vanhalla ripsinauhalla k\u00e4\u00e4nnetyt vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleet korvattaisiin nykyisin pellavaisella vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6kaitaleella. Itse pid\u00e4n enemm\u00e4n ripsinauhasta koska sit\u00e4 on hirmu helppo s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n koon mukaan, joten k\u00e4\u00e4nnetty\u00e4ni hameen, ompelin vanhan ripsinauhan hakasineen takaisin paikoilleen. Ommeltuani ripsinauhan ja nepparit, tajusin ett\u00e4 ripsinauha meni nyt hiukan eri tavalla kiinni kuin mit\u00e4 se alunperin oli. Ripsinauha oli nimitt\u00e4in ommeltu kiinni suoraan reunaan niin ett\u00e4 kankaan reunassa oleva saumuriommel j\u00e4i n\u00e4kyviin. Nyt tein sen k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 saumuriompeleen ripsinauhan alle piiloon.\u00a0Koek\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 havaitsin ett\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6 j\u00e4i aivan liian l\u00f6ys\u00e4ksi joten aion viel\u00e4 purkaa sen ja ommella uudelleen samoin kuten se oli aiemminkin.<\/p>\n

Suurimman osan ty\u00f6h\u00f6n k\u00e4ytetyst\u00e4 ajasta vei laskosten harsiminen, mutta sanoisin ett\u00e4 harsiminen oli kyll\u00e4 vaivan v\u00e4\u00e4rti sill\u00e4 koko kankaan uudelleen laskostaminen pesun j\u00e4lkeen olisi ollut viel\u00e4 \u00e4rsytt\u00e4v\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4. Valmiista hameesta ei nyt ole kuvaa. Se n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 aivan samalta kuin ennenkin<\/a>, vain v\u00e4h\u00e4n pidemm\u00e4lt\u00e4. Seuraavaksi aion ommella pukuun viel\u00e4 muhkean alushameen joka kohottaa helmaa kauniisti. P\u00e4\u00e4tin my\u00f6s vihdoin polkaista k\u00e4ytiin huntuprojektin. Puvusta nimitt\u00e4in puuttuu huntu. Tarkistettu, ns. suur-huntu on valkoista pellavaa jossa on keskell\u00e4 ommeltu reik\u00e4pitsi. Koko huntu on pliseerattu, kiinnitetty kulmasta renkaaseen ja renkaassa hunnun alla roikkuu sini-puna-valkoinen pirtanauha. Aloitin homman ostamalla k\u00e4ytettyn\u00e4 nauhapirran. Palaan siihen aiheeseen my\u00f6hemmin.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

This Spring I have made probably the most annoying sewing project for ages. I realized last Autumn, that my national costume skirt has loads of extra length on hem folding. Skirt belonged to my Grandmother, who was slightly shorter than I am. Also, dress is made according to 1980’s style, which sported slightly shorter skirts than modern requirement for Finnish national costumes is. I have always thought the skirt is a bit too short for me anyways. I was reading some conversations about doing the skirt alterations on Facebook group and decided to go on with it.<\/p>\n

Instructions were to turn the skirt upside down. Rip open both hem and waist seams, turn it around and sew new waistband and hem fold. This way the old hem fold won’t be so visible when it is partially covered with apron and vest. The Kaukola dress skirt is completely hand pleated and I did not want to re-pleat it, so I decided to baste stitch all pleats for washing. I wanted to wash the skirt, because it has never been washed and that would also help on vanishing the old hem fold.<\/p>\n

I did the baste stitching horizontally. First I was too enthusiast and then too lazy, stitching lines are too close to each other on both ends and too far in the middle. That wasn’t the best possible way, more evenly done stitching would have been better, but it worked. It took absolutely ages to do the stitching. I started at the end of December and finished beginning of June. Allthough, there were longer breaks when I did nothing.<\/p>\n

National costume enthusiasts recommend to use linen strip for the hem fold. I didn’t have any linen for it, so I left that out and just made one centimeter fold, which I hand stitched in place and then attached the red braid on the edge of the skirt. It is also recommended to replace the\u00a0 grossgrain ribbon on the waist with linen waistband. I was in a hurry to finish so I just used the old grossgrain ribbon. I also prefer the ribbon, because it is easier to alter the waistband if needed. When I had sewn it back on, I realized I did it differently than the original. It was originally sewn so that the overlock seam on the fabric is visible, but I folded the edge and sew the ribbon on top of the fold. When I used the skirt first time couple days ago, I realized the waist was too large. So later I will fix the waist completely to match the original and alter the size at the same time.<\/p>\n

Mostly the time was used on the annoying baste stitching, but I would say it was definitely worth every minute. Folding the whole skirt again after wash, would have been even more annoying. I don’t have photo of the finished skirt, but it looks just like it did before<\/a>, just a bit longer. Next thing to do on this national costume project is to make proper fluffy petticoat. That will give the skirt more body and beautiful shape. I also decided finally to start the missing veil project. This costume is supposed to have large veil, which never was made. Veil is made of white thin linen and it has narrow\u00a0 needle lace in the middle. Whole veil is pleated and attached from one corner to a ring, diameter about 10 cm. Under the veil, on the ring, is hanging a woven ribbon in red, blue and white. I started by buying second hand ribbon reed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L\u00e4ht\u00f6tilanne, reilu 10 cm k\u00e4\u00e4nnevaraa. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nStarting point, about 10 cm of extra fold.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Palmikkonauha on ommeltu reunan p\u00e4\u00e4lle k\u00e4sin. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nBraid has been sewn ontop of the edge by hand.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Avattu k\u00e4\u00e4nne. Voimakas taite ja k\u00e4\u00e4nteen laskokset nurinkurin. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nOpen fold. Strong ridge on the fold and reverse pleats.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Kiinni harsitut laskokset, ylh\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 liian tihe\u00e4sti, keskell\u00e4 liian harvasti. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nBaste stitched pleats, on top too close to each other, on the bottom too far.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Pesussa avattu k\u00e4\u00e4nne tasoittui ja nurin perin olevat laskokset poistuivat. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nIn the wash the sharp ridge on the fold evened out and reverse pleats<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nvanished almost completely.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Purin helman entisest\u00e4 vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6st\u00e4 pari harsinlankaa pois. Sek\u00e4 ajan ett\u00e4 materiaalin
\npuutteen vuoksi ompelin vain k\u00e4sin\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>noin sentin levyisen taitteen. T\u00e4m\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen
\nkiinnitin palmikkonauhan\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>k\u00e4sin, k\u00e4\u00e4nteen reunaan, eli eri tavalla kuin alkuper\u00e4inen. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nI took couple baste stitched threads off and due to lack of time and
\nmaterial, made narrow fold, which\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>I hand stitched in place. Then I hand stitched
\nthe braid on the edge,\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>which is different than what it was originally.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Valmis helma. Saatan my\u00f6hemmin tehd\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4n uudestaan pellavakaitaleella,<\/strong><\/span>
\nkuten nykyisin suositellaan jos helmaa on pidennetty k\u00e4\u00e4nteelt\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nFinished hem. I might redo this later with strip of linen, as it’s now\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nrecommended if hem length is altered.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Laskostin avatun helmak\u00e4\u00e4nteen nuppineuloin pr\u00e4ss\u00e4yst\u00e4 varten.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nT\u00e4ss\u00e4 kohtaa kiitin itse\u00e4ni siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 olin harsinut vanhat laskokset kohtalaisen<\/strong><\/span>
\nhuolellisesti kiinni, koko helman uudelleen laskostaminen olisi ollut todella tuskaa. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nI pleated the opened hem fold with pins for steaming and pressing.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nAt this point I thanked myself for baste stitching the hem pretty neatly.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nTo re-pleat the whole hem would have been quite agonizing.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Laskostuksen j\u00e4lkeen harsin laskokset paikoilleen. Neuloista olisi<\/strong><\/span>
\nj\u00e4\u00e4nyt pehme\u00e4\u00e4n kankaaseen j\u00e4ljet pr\u00e4ss\u00e4tess\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nAfter pleating, I baste stitched the whole thing. Pins would have<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nleft marks on the soft fabric when pressing.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Lopuksi ompelin sivusaumasta umpeen vanhan nepparihalkion, avasin<\/strong><\/span>
\ntoiseen p\u00e4\u00e4h\u00e4n saumaa, uuteen vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6\u00f6n vastaavan halkion ja<\/strong><\/span>
\nompelin ripsinauhan uuteen vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6\u00f6n. Kuten tekstiss\u00e4 jo kerroin,<\/strong><\/span>
\nkorjaan t\u00e4m\u00e4nkin my\u00f6hemmin vastaamaan alkuper\u00e4ist\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nAnd finally I stitched the seam opening on old waist, and made<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nnew one on the other end of the seam for new waist. Then I\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nattached the grossgrain ribbon on the new waist. As I already<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nexplained on the text, I will fix this later to match the original.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

T\u00e4n\u00e4 kev\u00e4\u00e4n\u00e4 olen tehnyt ehk\u00e4 \u00e4rsytt\u00e4vimm\u00e4n ompeluhomman vuosiin. Tajusin viime syksyn\u00e4, ett\u00e4 kansallispukuni hameen helmassahan on kymmenisen sentti\u00e4 k\u00e4\u00e4nnett\u00e4.\u00a0Puku on tehty\u00a0 80-luvun tyylin mukaan, lyhyemm\u00e4ksi kuin nykyajatus hameen pituudesta ja olen koko ajan pit\u00e4nyt hametta itselleni v\u00e4h\u00e4n turhan lyhyen\u00e4.Hame kuului mummulleni joka oli my\u00f6s minua hiukan lyhyempi. Facebookin Kansallispuku-ryhm\u00e4ss\u00e4 bongasin keskustelua hameen pident\u00e4misest\u00e4 ja ryhdyin… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":13592,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Altering the national costume skirt","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,25,7,35],"tags":[279,104,126,235],"class_list":{"0":"post-13577","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-evilompelee","8":"category-eviltuunaa","9":"category-projektit","10":"category-vintage","11":"tag-national-costume","12":"tag-projects","13":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","14":"tag-vintage","16":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/kpuku6.jpg?fit=600%2C961","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-3wZ","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13577","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13577"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13577\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13925,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13577\/revisions\/13925"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/13592"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13577"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13577"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13577"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}