{"id":13306,"date":"2018-02-07T10:00:50","date_gmt":"2018-02-07T08:00:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13306"},"modified":"2018-12-01T20:38:04","modified_gmt":"2018-12-01T18:38:04","slug":"kitsuke-art-of-wearing-a-kimono","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13306","title":{"rendered":"Kitsuke: art of wearing a kimono"},"content":{"rendered":"

On se kuulkaa j\u00e4nn\u00e4\u00e4 opetella uusia asioita. Kiinnostavaa ja j\u00e4nn\u00e4\u00e4. Kimono- eli kitsuke-ty\u00f6pajan ohjaajana toimi pukuompelija Aliisa Arve Suomen Chad\u014d Urasenke Tank\u014dkai-yhdistyksest\u00e4<\/a>. H\u00e4n on opiskellut kimonon valmistusta kolme vuotta Kiotossa ja vuoden verran japanilaista teetaidetta (Japanissa siis, h\u00e4n edelleen jatkaa teen opiskelua Suomessa) johon kimonot kuuluvat olennaisena osana. Ty\u00f6paja keskittyi p\u00e4\u00e4osin teetaiteeseen sopiviin, puolimuodollisiin kimonoihin. Kitsuke tarkoittaa vapaasti k\u00e4\u00e4nnettyn\u00e4 kimonon pukemisen taitoa. L\u00e4hesk\u00e4\u00e4n kaikki japanilaisetkaan eiv\u00e4t kuulemma en\u00e4\u00e4 sit\u00e4 hallitse. Tosin saattaa k\u00e4yd\u00e4 my\u00f6s niin ett\u00e4 jos menet Kiotoon kimonoon pukeutuneena, joku paikallinen rouva-henkil\u00f6 voi tulla ns. r\u00e4j\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n obisi, eli korjaamaan jotakin mukamas v\u00e4\u00e4rin puettua osaa.<\/p>\n

Toisin kuin kuvittelin, kimonoita on paljon erilaisia. Kaikkein virallisinta kurotomesode-kimonoa k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n yleens\u00e4 vain h\u00e4\u00e4juhlassa, eik\u00e4 monikaan japanilainen en\u00e4\u00e4 omista sellaista, sill\u00e4 ne ovat kalliita (uuden henkil\u00f6auton hintaluokkaa)<\/strong><\/span>. Kuulemma kaikki japanilaiset eiv\u00e4t muutenkaan en\u00e4\u00e4 pukeudu kimonoon, varsinkaan Kioton ulkopuolella. Kaikkein ep\u00e4muodollisimmat ovat puuvillasta tehdyt kes\u00e4kimonot, yukatat ja arkiset villakimonot. T\u00e4h\u00e4n v\u00e4liin mahtuu monta erilaista kimonoa ja niiden muodollisuusastetta. Muodollisemmat kimonot erottaa ep\u00e4muodollisista mon-vaakunoista. Mit\u00e4 enemm\u00e4n vaakunoita, sit\u00e4 muodollisempi kimono, ep\u00e4muodollisista kimonoista ne puuttuvat kokonaan.<\/p>\n

Japanilainen v\u00e4riestetiikka on erilaista kuin mihin me olemme tottuneet, joten kimonoissa voidaan yhdist\u00e4\u00e4 kuvioita ja v\u00e4rej\u00e4 meid\u00e4n silm\u00e4\u00e4mme aika rohkeastikin. T\u00e4ysmusta kimono ja t\u00e4ysmustat asusteet ovat hautajaisvaate eik\u00e4 niit\u00e4 pid\u00e4 koskaan muulloin pukea p\u00e4\u00e4lleen. Muodollisia kimonoita koskevia sopivaisuuss\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00f6j\u00e4 on paljon, mutta ep\u00e4muodollisia voidaan pukea vapaammin.\u00a0Vintage- ja antiikkikimonoita harrastavat voivat revitell\u00e4 pukeutumisessa enemm\u00e4n.\u00a0Lis\u00e4ksi Japanissa on erilaisia koulukuntia jotka pukevat kimonon eri tavoin.<\/p>\n

Itse\u00e4ni kiinnosti tietysti eniten kimonon muodin historia. Siit\u00e4 ohjaajamme ei hirve\u00e4sti osannut kertoa. Ty\u00f6pajaa organisoimassa ollut kaverini my\u00f6hemmin totesi ett\u00e4 japanilaiset arvostavat uusia asioita joten vanhan kimonomuodin tutkiminen ei taida olla kiinnostuksen kohteena siell\u00e4 ykk\u00f6stilalla. Ainakaan siit\u00e4 ei hirve\u00e4sti ole tietoa saatavilla, vaikka kimonon historiasta muutoin on paljonkin tietoa. Sen verran kuitenkin sain selville ett\u00e4 oma kimononi on, suureksi h\u00e4mm\u00e4styksekseni, vanhempaa perua, todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isesti 1920- tai 30-luvulta, Sh\u014dwa-kauden alusta, ennen toista maailmansotaa. T\u00e4h\u00e4n viittaa mm. pitk\u00e4hk\u00f6t hihaliepeet, vuorin kirkkaanpunainen v\u00e4ri, kimonon pieni koko sek\u00e4 kuvio- ja v\u00e4rimaailma. Tyylilt\u00e4\u00e4n se on todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isesti ep\u00e4muodollinen o-meshi, v\u00e4rj\u00e4tyist\u00e4, kiilt\u00e4vist\u00e4 silkkilangoista kudottu ja on ik\u00e4\u00e4ns\u00e4 n\u00e4hden kuulemma eritt\u00e4in hyv\u00e4ss\u00e4 kunnossa. Hopeanhohtoinen obini taas on luultavasti 60-luvun tyyli\u00e4. Se on muodollinen fukuro obi, joissa k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n paljon metallilankoja. T\u00e4m\u00e4 oma obini on kuulemma keskener\u00e4inen, siit\u00e4 puuttuu sis\u00e4lt\u00e4 tukikangas ja p\u00e4\u00e4t ovat ompelematta. Luultavasti sit\u00e4 ei ole koskaan k\u00e4ytetty. Tukikangasta en aio siihen lis\u00e4t\u00e4, mutta p\u00e4\u00e4t aion ommella umpeen kuten kuuluukin. Kimono ja obi ovat siis v\u00e4h\u00e4n eri paria, mutta kuten aiemmin mainitsin, vintagekimonoiden kanssa voi tyyli\u00e4 revitell\u00e4 vapaammin.<\/p>\n

No ty\u00f6paja on k\u00e4yty, mit\u00e4s nyt? Nyt aion v\u00e4h\u00e4n fiksata nagajubania, eli v\u00e4likimonoa ja ommella obin p\u00e4\u00e4t. Aion hankkia muutamia pukeutumistarvikkeita ja surffailla kimonosivuilla. Minulta puuttuu viel\u00e4 tabit joita en ehtinyt ommella, kunnollinen obiage (tein v\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4nlaisen) ja obimakuralle teline joka helpottaa obin pukemista. Lis\u00e4ksi olisi k\u00e4tev\u00e4\u00e4 ommella muotoiltuja toppauksia jotka voi pukea nepparein tai tarranauhoin. Ty\u00f6pajassa k\u00e4ytin froteepyyhekeit\u00e4 ja puuvillanauhoja sitomiseen. Lis\u00e4ksi voisin hankkia muutamia apuklipsej\u00e4 pukemisen helpottamiseksi. Sitten jos oikein haluan alkaa hifistelem\u00e4\u00e4n voisin hommata geta- tai zori-sandaalit, toisen oikean kokoisen kimonon ja aidon obijimen. Tosin kun olen kohtalaisen pitk\u00e4 ja muodokas niin oikean kokoista kimonoa voi olla vaikea l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4. Jos kimono-hommelit kiinnostavat sinua niin l\u00f6yd\u00e4t muita harrastajia FB-ryhm\u00e4st\u00e4 Kitsuke Finland<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

It is so exciting to learn new things. Interesting and exciting. Kimono aka kitsuke workshop was run by seamstress Aliisa Arve from Finnish Chado Urasenke Tankokai association<\/a>. She has studied kimono making in Kyoto for three years and japanese tea ceremonies for one year. Kimonos are important part of tea ceremonies. Workshop concentrated on half formal kimonos which are used in the ceremonies. Kitsuke means, freely translated, the art of wearing a kimono. Apparently not all japanese know how to do it these days. And on the other hand, if you wear a kimono while in Kyoto, some old lady might come and explode your obi, meaning that they might want to fix something that they think was put on wrong.<\/p>\n

Unlike I imagined, there are loads of different kind of kimonos. The most formal of all, kurotomesode is mainly used in weddings, and not many Japanese own one these days. They are very expensive to buy, about the pricerange of a new car. I was told that wearing a kimono is not that common in Japan anymore, especially outside Kyoto. Most informal kimonos are yucata, the cotton summer kimonos. And wool kimonos, meant for everyday wear. Between most formal and most informal there are loads of variety and levels of formality. You can separate formal from informal by the amount of mon crests. The more mons, the more formal kimono. Informal kimonos don’t have any crests at all.<\/p>\n

Japanese colour aesthetics is different than what we are used to. So kimonos could have quite brave colour and pattern combinations. Completely black kimono with completely black kitsuke set is only meant for funerals and is never worn elsewhere. There are many rules for wearing formal kimonos, but informal have more flexibility on the style. Vintage and antique kimonos are also much more open to styling. There are also different tradition styles for dressing up. There is one rule however, which goes over everything else. Left side of the kimono is always on top of the right side. Right side of the kimono is wrapped over left side only for dead people. Unlike western fashion, kimono is not meant for showing your curves, on the contrary. When wearing a kimono, the goal is to even out all curves. Breasts are flattened and waist is padded to smoothen everything out into cylinder shape. Most ideal would also be\u00a0 bottle neck shoulders, so person with very straight shoulders might want to add some padding on the shoulders, near neck.<\/p>\n

I am more interested on the kimono fashion history. Our teacher didn’t really know much about that. My friend, who was organizing the workshop, told me later that Japanese appreciate more modern things, so studying old kimono fashion isn’t that popupar issue there. Atleast there isn’t that much information available, even though history of kimono is otherwise quite well known. I still managed to find little bit of the origins of my vintage kimono. To my huge surprise, it is quite old. Based on long sleeves, red lining, the small size and patterns and colours, it is from pre WWII, most likely 1920’s or 1930’s, early Sh\u014dwa period. It is probably informal o-meshi kimono, which are made of shiny, dyed silk threads. Considering the age, it is in remarkable condition, I was told. My silvery vintage obi is most likely from 1960’s. It is the most formal of obi’s, fukuro, where they use loads of metal threads. I was told that this obi is unfinished. It is missing interlining and ends are not sewn. Quite likely it is never worn. I’m not going to add support material, but I am going to sew the ends, as they should. So my kimono and obi are not matching on formality, but like I mentioned earlier, with vintage kimonos, it is allowed to take some liberties.<\/p>\n

Well, workshop is done, what now? Now I am going to take some time to fix nagajuban, that is the middle kimono between main kimono and underwear. I’m also going to sew the obi, as mentioned. I am planning on getting some suplies for kitsuke and surf around the kimono web pages. I still don’t have tabi, which I didn’t have time to make, proper obiage (the one I made is not correct) and a holder for obimakura, to help getting the obi on nicely. Also some tailormade padding would help on dressing up. On the workshop I used just some hand towels and ribbons. I could also get some clips for making the dressing up easier. If I want to get really fancy, I could get another, properly fitting kimono, geta or zori sandals and real obijime. However, the tall and curvy person I am, it might prove difficult to find right size. If you are interested in wearing kimonos, you can find Finnish kimono enthusiasts from FB group Kitsuke Finland<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\nAliisa Arve n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 miten kimono muotoillaan istuvaksi. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nAliisa Arve showing how to create wellfitting kimono.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"
\nV\u00e4lipalaa ennen pukeutumista. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nSome snacks before getting dressed.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
\nKitsuke-tarvikkeet ylh\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4 alkaen vasemmalta oikealle:<\/strong><\/span>
\n valkoinen nagajuban, vintage kimono, obi, datejime, koorin belt & obijime,<\/strong><\/span>
\nerishin-kauluskovike, obi-ita (obin kovikelevy), apuv\u00f6it\u00e4<\/strong><\/span>
\n makura-tyyny, obi-klipsi makuralle, obiage, toppaukset (froteepyyhkeit\u00e4)<\/strong><\/span>
\njonkun kurssilaisen zori-sandaalit sattuivat kuvaan my\u00f6s \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nKitsuke items, starting from top left: white nagajuban,\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nvintage kimono, obi, datejime, koorin belt & obijime,<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nerishin, obi-ita (cardboard), ribbon belts,<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nmakura pillow, obi clip for makura, obiage, padding (towels)<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nsomeone’s zori happened to be there<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
\nNuoren naisen muodollisin kimono\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>furisode,\u00a0<\/strong>jossa eritt\u00e4in pitk\u00e4t hihaliepeet. \/
\n<\/strong>Furisode, the most formal kimono for young women, with very long sleeves.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"
\nTaiko-musubi, eli obin yksinkertainen rumpusolmu. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nTaiko-musubi, simple drum knot for obi.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"
\nKimonoharrastaja lainasi kurssilaisille omia kimonoitaan. Kysyin montako<\/strong><\/span>
\nh\u00e4nell\u00e4 on. Vastasi ett\u00e4 lakkasi laskemasta jossain 70 kohdalla, mutta ett\u00e4<\/strong><\/span>
\nkyll\u00e4 niit\u00e4 on jo noin satakunta. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nOne kimono enthusiast brought some of her collection to the workshop<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nfor people to try on if they didn’t have their own. I asked how many does<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nshe have. She said she stopped counting on 70, but there should be<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\naround 100 atleast.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
\nKimonoiden v\u00e4rj\u00e4ystekniikka on aivan oma maailmansa, sit\u00e4 sivuttiin<\/strong><\/span>
\nty\u00f6pajassa vain ohimennen, mutta se on yksi syys siihen miksi kimonot ovat<\/strong><\/span>
\nkalliita. Kudotut kuviot ovat ep\u00e4muodollisempia kuin v\u00e4rj\u00e4tyt\/maalatut. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nKimono dye-technique is a world of it’s own. We didn’t really talk much about<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nit in the workshop. It is however, one reason why kimono’s are so expensive.<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nWoven patterns are more informal than dyed\/painted.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
\nL\u00e4hikuvassa n\u00e4kyy ikat- eli flammutekniikalla v\u00e4rj\u00e4tty kuviointi.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nT\u00e4ll\u00e4 tavalla tehdyiss\u00e4 kankaissa kuvio v\u00e4rj\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n lankoihin jo ennen kutomista.<\/strong><\/span>
\nTekniikka on kallis, joten sill\u00e4 tehtyj\u00e4 kankaita n\u00e4kee nyky\u00e4\u00e4n harvemmin. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nClose up of my kimono ikat technique pattern. Fabrics made with this technique<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nare expensive, so you don’t really see them that much these days. Patterns<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nare dyed on the yarns before weaving.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
\nKimonokaverikuva. Edvinan blogi<\/a>.
\nKuvan otti joku kurssilaisista. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nKimonophoto with friend. Edwina’s blog<\/a>, in finnish.
\nPhoto was taken by one of the fellow students.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

On se kuulkaa j\u00e4nn\u00e4\u00e4 opetella uusia asioita. Kiinnostavaa ja j\u00e4nn\u00e4\u00e4. Kimono- eli kitsuke-ty\u00f6pajan ohjaajana toimi pukuompelija Aliisa Arve Suomen Chad\u014d Urasenke Tank\u014dkai-yhdistyksest\u00e4. H\u00e4n on opiskellut kimonon valmistusta kolme vuotta Kiotossa ja vuoden verran japanilaista teetaidetta (Japanissa siis, h\u00e4n edelleen jatkaa teen opiskelua Suomessa) johon kimonot kuuluvat olennaisena osana. Ty\u00f6paja keskittyi p\u00e4\u00e4osin teetaiteeseen sopiviin, puolimuodollisiin kimonoihin…. <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":13317,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Kitsuke: art of wearing a kimono","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[44,12,21,13,35],"tags":[91,68,82,235],"class_list":{"0":"post-13306","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-jotainihanmuuta","8":"category-munelama","9":"category-muutaajankulua","10":"category-vaatehtimo","11":"category-vintage","12":"tag-my-life","13":"tag-outfits","14":"tag-something-else","15":"tag-vintage","17":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/kimonoworkshop5.jpg?fit=600%2C1031","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-3sC","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13306","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13306"}],"version-history":[{"count":16,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13306\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13953,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13306\/revisions\/13953"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/13317"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13306"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13306"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13306"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}