{"id":13048,"date":"2017-11-19T19:32:06","date_gmt":"2017-11-19T17:32:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13048"},"modified":"2017-11-19T19:32:06","modified_gmt":"2017-11-19T17:32:06","slug":"kansallispuvussa-roadshow","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=13048","title":{"rendered":"Kansallispuvussa-roadshow"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kun tuo el\u00e4m\u00e4 k\u00e4y muuten hyvin \u00e4kki\u00e4 tyls\u00e4npuoleiseksi, niin k\u00e4vin taas v\u00e4h\u00e4n h\u00e4r\u00f6ilem\u00e4ss\u00e4 lavalla. Mari Varosen aloitteesta l\u00e4htenyt Kansallispuvussa-roadshow<\/a> sai p\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6ksens\u00e4 lauantaina Suomen suurimmassa k\u00e4sity\u00f6tapahtumassa, K\u00e4dentaidot-messuilla Tampereella. Viralliseen Suomi100-juhlaohjelmaan kuuluvan tapahtuman lavalla n\u00e4htiin satakunta suomalaista ja suomenruotsalaista pukua. Oli upeaa n\u00e4hd\u00e4 niin paljon kansallispukuja yhdess\u00e4 ja joukkomme oli varsin vaikuttava.\u00a0Itse sain kunnian edustaa mummuni 80-luvulla valmistamassa, nyt siis jo yli 30-vuotiaassa Kaukolan puvussa.<\/span>\u00a0Olen kirjoittanut kansallispuvusta blogiin viimeksi vuosi sitten itsen\u00e4isyysp\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4. Yksityiskohtakuvia l\u00f6yd\u00e4t sielt\u00e4<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

Olin pukeutuneena kansallispukuun koko p\u00e4iv\u00e4n ja messuilla kierrelless\u00e4 sain my\u00f6s vastailla ihmisten kysymyksiin itse n\u00e4yt\u00f6ksest\u00e4 ja omasta puvustani. Kiinnostusta selv\u00e4sti oli, tosin t\u00e4lt\u00e4 osin nuoriso loisti poissaolollaan. Olisin mieluusti kertonut kansallispuvuista my\u00f6skin nuoremmille. Kaukolan puku on yksi suosituimmista kansallispuvuista. Se on koottu vuonna 1921. Pukuun on tehty 80-luvun lopulla aloitettu tarkistus, joka on julkistettu 1990. T\u00e4st\u00e4 syyst\u00e4 on mahdollista n\u00e4hd\u00e4 pukuja joissa on hienoisia eroja mm. liivin koristelussa ja mallissa.\u00a0 Omasta puvustani, kuten monista muistakin Kaukolan puvuista, puuttuu huntu. 80-luvulla ei kuulemma ollut juurikaan ohjeita saatavilla sen valmistamiseen. Ajatuksena on ett\u00e4 jossain vaiheessa teen itse puuttuvan hunnun. Ohessa viel\u00e4 kuvallisia tunnelmia showsta.<\/p>\n

Kaukolan puku<\/strong><\/span>
\nHame<\/strong><\/span> – tummansininen villahame, omassa puvussani laskostettu ja pr\u00e4ss\u00e4tty, helmassa koristeena punainen palmikoitu koittana
\nLiivi<\/strong> <\/span>– tummansinist\u00e4 villaa, vuorina tiivis pellavakangas, ep\u00e4symmetrisess\u00e4 koristelussa hopeanappeja, kirjontaa ja villapampuloita, p\u00e4\u00e4ntiet\u00e4 reunustaa s\u00e4\u00e4misk\u00e4 ja kirjonta, muut reunat on huoliteltu punaisella koittanalla, messinkihakaset ovat koristeelliset ja niiden alla on punainen verka-aplikaatio
\nPaita<\/strong><\/span> – paita on ohutta pellavapalttinaa ja siin\u00e4 on olalla nytinkipitsikaistaleet, p\u00e4\u00e4ntie on py\u00f6re\u00e4 ja halkiollinen
\nEsiliina<\/strong><\/span> – pellavapalttinaan on kudottu punainen koristeraita ja helmaan on ommeltu kolmiv\u00e4rinen nyytinkipitsi, essua reunustaa kapea pitsi
\nSolki<\/strong> <\/span>– p\u00e4\u00e4ntien halkio suljetaan suurehkolla, hopeisella paljinsoljella
\nSukat<\/strong><\/span> – valkoiset (k\u00e4sinkudotut) sukat (k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6ss\u00e4 monella valkoiset sukkahousut)
\nKeng\u00e4t<\/strong> <\/span>– v\u00e4rj\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4st\u00e4 nahasta valmistetut kansallispukukeng\u00e4t tai mustat avokkaat\/nauhakeng\u00e4t
\nHuntu<\/strong><\/span> – aikuiset naiset k\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 ns. suurhuntua, tarkistamaton huntu on sile\u00e4 ja edess\u00e4 on liepeet, tarkistettu huntu j\u00e4\u00e4 kokonaan niskaan ja on taitettuna pliseerattu, huntu kiinnitet\u00e4\u00e4n syker\u00f6\u00f6n
\nS\u00e4pp\u00e4li<\/strong><\/span> – puna-mustat p\u00e4\u00e4nauhat jotka on koristeltu tinanastoin, s\u00e4pp\u00e4li\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t vain nuoret tyt\u00f6t<\/p>\n

Koittana<\/strong><\/span> – palmikoitu tai punottu villainen reunusnauha
\nVerka<\/strong><\/span> – hienoa, pinnaltaan huopamaista villakangasta
\nPalttina<\/strong><\/span> – yksinkertaisin kankaan perussidoksista jossa kude kulkee vuorotellen yhden loimilangan alta ja p\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4 ja seuraava kude kulkee p\u00e4invastaisessa j\u00e4rjestyksess\u00e4
\nNyytinkipitsi<\/strong><\/span> – tiivis karjalainen nypl\u00e4tty pitsi, usein v\u00e4rillinen tai osittain v\u00e4rillinen
\nPaljinsolki<\/strong><\/span> – usein kaiverruksin koristeltu solki jonka keskell\u00e4 kulkee neulamainen osa, paljin
\nSyker\u00f6<\/strong><\/span> – donitsimainen rinkula jonka p\u00e4\u00e4lle huntu muotoillaan, jos omat hiukset riitt\u00e4v\u00e4t, syker\u00f6n voi muotoilla niist\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4laelle, mutta sen voi tehd\u00e4 my\u00f6s muusta materiaalista ja sitten kiinnitt\u00e4\u00e4 koko rakennelma omiin hiuksiin<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

L\u00e4hteet:<\/strong><\/span>
\n Kansallispuvussa-blogi<\/a><\/strong><\/span>
\n Kansallispuvut.fi<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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To prevent the life from going boring, I did some goofy stage performance again. Mari Varonen, who collects Finnish national costumes, launched National Costume-roadshow earlier this year to celebrate Finland 100 years of independence. Roadshow Grand Finale was in Finland’s largest handcrafting fair in Tampere this weekend. Event was part of official Suomi100-celebrations and showcased about 100 Finnish and Finnish-Swedes national costumes on stage. It was awesome to see so many costume in one event and it was quite magnificent group. I was presenting Kaukola dress, which was made by my Granny in the 80’s. You can find detail photos of the dress, when I wore it<\/a> for Independence Day last year.<\/p>\n

I was wearing the dress whole day at the fair, so I also answered lots of questions about the show and also the dress itself. People were obviously quite interested, however not any younger people. I would have been excited to tell about national costumes to them aswell. Kaukola dress is one of the most popular of them all, it originates to the old Carelia area. Kaukoka is no longer part of Finland. It was given to Russia after losing the WWII. That might be reason for the popularity of dresses of that area. There are some variations on the Kaukola dresses because the design was inspected and corrected in late 1980’s. My own dress, like many other Kaukola dresses, is missing a veil. Apparently in the 80’s when it was made, it was difficult to get instructions for making it. I am planning on making it one day. Have a look at these couple views from the show.<\/p>\n

Kaukola dress<\/strong><\/span>
\nSkirt<\/strong><\/span> – dark blue wool skirt, in my dress it’s pleated and pressed, red braided koittana is decorating the hem
\nVest<\/strong> <\/span>– dark blue wool, linen lining, asymmetrical decorations include silver buttons, embroidery and wool pompoms, neckline is trimmed with chamois and embroidery, other edges are trimmed with red koittana, brass hook and look are decorative and they are sewn ontop red wool applique
\nShirt<\/strong><\/span> – shirt is fine linen and it has nyytinki lace on shoulders, neckline is round with slit
\nApron<\/strong><\/span> – linen fabric has woven ornament in red, hem of the apron has tricoloured nyytinki lace insert and is trimmed with narrow lace
\nBrooch<\/strong><\/span> – neckline slit is closed with buckle brooch
\nSocks<\/strong><\/span> – white (handknitted)<\/strong><\/span> socks (often white tights in practice)\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nShoes<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0– undyed leather shoes, specific to national costumes or black pumps or shoes with laces
\nVeil<\/strong><\/span> – adult women wear so called great veil, uncorrected veil is smooth and has longer edge on front, corrected veil is folded and then pleated and is completely hanging on the neck, veil is attached to syker\u00f6
\nS\u00e4pp\u00e4li<\/strong><\/span> – red and black head ribbons, which are decorated with tin studs, only worn by young girls<\/p>\n

Koittana<\/strong><\/span> – braided or woven wool trimming ribbon
\nNyytinki lace<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0– tigthly woven Carelian bobbin lace, often coloured or partially coloured
\nSyker\u00f6<\/strong><\/span> – donut shaped thick ring for attaching veil, made as a hairdo if one has long enough hair, but can be also done from other material, veil is wrapped around it and then attached to heirdo with bobby pins or comb<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Source:<\/strong><\/span>
\n Kansallispuvussa-blogi<\/a><\/strong><\/span>
\n Kansallispuvut.fi<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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One more clip of this Bad romance because it is co much fun. \/ Viel\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4n Bad romancea koska se on niin hauska #kansallispuvussa #kansallispuvussaroadshow #k\u00e4dentaidot #finnishnationalcostumes<\/a><\/p>\n

A post shared by Rhia Evildressmaker<\/a> (@rhia_evildressmaker) on