{"id":12688,"date":"2017-05-18T20:12:51","date_gmt":"2017-05-18T17:12:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=12688"},"modified":"2017-05-18T20:12:51","modified_gmt":"2017-05-18T17:12:51","slug":"urheilullinen-pusakka-sporty-spring-jacket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=12688","title":{"rendered":"Urheilullinen pusakka \/ Sporty Spring jacket"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Koska oon tosi huono v\u00e4likausivaatteissa, halusin tehd\u00e4 itselleni kev\u00e4t-\/syystakin. Kangasta on kaapeissa, mutta jostain syyst\u00e4 mik\u00e4\u00e4n ei oikein ole natsannut kohdalleen. Viime syksyn\u00e4 kumminkin t\u00f6rm\u00e4sin kauniiseen villakankaaseen, muistaakseni Nextiiliss\u00e4. Kangasta oli hintsunlaisesti, joten malli piti valita sen mukaan. Selasin inspiraatiokuvia pitk\u00e4\u00e4n, kunnes silmiini osui <a href=\"http:\/\/vintageclothinglove.blogspot.fi\/2011\/12\/vintage-winter-wear-1930s.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">t\u00e4ss\u00e4 vanhassa blogissa<\/a> 30-luvun vaatekatalogin sivu. Keskell\u00e4 oleva oranssi pusakka j\u00e4i jotenkin mieleeni.<\/p>\n<p>Kypsyttelin ajatusta pitk\u00e4\u00e4n, kunnes vasta t\u00e4n\u00e4 kev\u00e4\u00e4n\u00e4 sain aikaiseksi ryhty\u00e4 kaavoittamaan. Ja niinh\u00e4n se takki sitten vihdoin syntyi. Minulla on hyv\u00e4ksi havaittu jakun kaava jota k\u00e4yt\u00e4n tosi usein pohjana ja muokkaan vain siihen halutut muutokset. T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa selk\u00e4\u00e4n tuli v\u00e4ljyytt\u00e4 antavat laskokset s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6nauhoin. Hihojen suuhun tein samanlaiset nauhat. Tuppiloiden\u00a0k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00e4minen oli muuten aika tuskallista. Oikean k\u00e4den peukalossa on viel\u00e4 viikkojenkin p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 oudolle tuntuva, kihelm\u00f6iv\u00e4 kohta. Ep\u00e4symmetrinen napitus ja paitakaulus eiv\u00e4t onnistuneet aivan nappiin. P\u00e4\u00e4ntie on ehk\u00e4 ihan aavistuksen liian tiukka ja kaulusk\u00e4rjet tahtovat k\u00e4pristy\u00e4 v\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4\u00e4n suuntaan. Pit\u00e4\u00e4 katsoa josko sille voisi viel\u00e4 tehd\u00e4 jotain. Helmakin olisi voinut olla ihan parisen sentti\u00e4 pidempi, mutta kangasta ei olisi oikein riitt\u00e4nyt pidemp\u00e4\u00e4n. Muuten pid\u00e4n takista aivan \u00e4lytt\u00f6m\u00e4sti. Kangas on t\u00e4ydellisen v\u00e4rist\u00e4 ja kivasti ruudutettu. Sis\u00e4puolelle tein pient\u00e4 luksuksen tuntua koristelemalla vuorin ja alavaran yhdyssauman polvekenauhalla.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/inenglish.gif\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7004\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/inenglish.gif?resize=214%2C100\" alt=\"\" width=\"214\" height=\"100\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m not very good with the so called mid-season clothes. Meaning Spring and Autumn. Here in Finland those seasons require specific garments which are warm enough for chilly mornings but at the same time\u00a0thin enough for warm and sunny days. I have large stash of fabrics, but for some reason I haven&#8217;t been able to make proper Spring\/Autumn coat. Last Autumn I found pretty vintage wool, local fabric recycle center if I recall correctly. There was very small amount of the fabric, so I had to choose the design accordingly. I browsed inspiration for long time, untill I found page of 1930&#8217;s clothing catalog <a href=\"http:\/\/vintageclothinglove.blogspot.fi\/2011\/12\/vintage-winter-wear-1930s.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">in this old blog<\/a>. The orange jacket in the middle somehow caught my attention.<\/p>\n<p>I brewed the idea for awhile, untill this Spring I finally decided to start drafting the pattern. And so the jacket happened. I have good pattern for fitted jackets, which I often use as a base. I just make the design alterations if needed. This time I added pleats with adjustment at the back. I also added similar adjustments on sleeves. It was pretty painfull to make the tapes. I had odd, tingling spot on my thumb even weekslater. Asymmetrical buttoning and collar didn&#8217;t work as good as I thought. Neckline is just a tad too tight, and collar tips keep turning upwards. I have to see if that can be fixed. Hem could have been couple centimeters longer, but there just wasn&#8217;t enough fabric. Besides those minor flaws, I like this jacket very much. Colour is perfect and I like the cute little criss-cross stripes. I added little bit of luxury by decorating the lining seams with rickrack-tape.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/1934-eatons.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-12695\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/1934-eatons-765x1024.jpg?resize=600%2C803\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"803\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/1934-eatons.jpg?resize=765%2C1024 765w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/1934-eatons.jpg?resize=150%2C200 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/1934-eatons.jpg?resize=224%2C300 224w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/1934-eatons.jpg?resize=768%2C1028 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/1934-eatons.jpg?w=1195 1195w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>Keskell\u00e4 pusakan esikuva oranssina. \/<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<em><span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>The original jacket in orange in the middle.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket2.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-12698\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket2.jpg?resize=600%2C948\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"948\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket2.jpg?w=600 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket2.jpg?resize=127%2C200 127w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket2.jpg?resize=190%2C300 190w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket3.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-12699\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket3.jpg?resize=600%2C945\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"945\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket3.jpg?w=600 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket3.jpg?resize=127%2C200 127w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket3.jpg?resize=190%2C300 190w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>Vuorin polvekenauhakoristelu. \/<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong><em>Rickrack-tape decoration in the lining.<\/em>\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket1.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12697\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket1.jpg?resize=600%2C884\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"884\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket1.jpg?w=600 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket1.jpg?resize=136%2C200 136w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket1.jpg?resize=204%2C300 204w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>T\u00e4ss\u00e4 kaikki mit\u00e4 kankaasta j\u00e4i yli. \/<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<em><span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>This is all fabric that was left over.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket5.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-12701 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket5.jpg?resize=600%2C1084\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"1084\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket5.jpg?w=600 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket5.jpg?resize=111%2C200 111w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket5.jpg?resize=166%2C300 166w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket5.jpg?resize=567%2C1024 567w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket4.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-12700 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket4.jpg?resize=600%2C1087\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"1087\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket4.jpg?w=600 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket4.jpg?resize=110%2C200 110w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket4.jpg?resize=166%2C300 166w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket4.jpg?resize=565%2C1024 565w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>Olen tottunut pitkiin takkeihin joten jopa korkeavy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6isten housujen kanssa\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>se tuntuu v\u00e4h\u00e4n lyhyelt\u00e4. Pari sentti\u00e4 pituutta lis\u00e4\u00e4 ei olisi ollut pahitteeksi,\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>mutta kangas ei riitt\u00e4nyt pidemp\u00e4\u00e4n takkiin. \/<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n<em><span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>I am used to a bit longer coats, so even with high waisted pants it seems quite<\/strong><\/span><\/em><br \/>\n<em><span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>short. Couple centimeters longer would have been better, but there was not<\/strong><\/span><\/em><br \/>\n<em><span style=\"color: #008080;\"><strong>enough fabric for that.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Koska oon tosi huono v\u00e4likausivaatteissa, halusin tehd\u00e4 itselleni kev\u00e4t-\/syystakin. Kangasta on kaapeissa, mutta jostain syyst\u00e4 mik\u00e4\u00e4n ei oikein ole natsannut kohdalleen. Viime syksyn\u00e4 kumminkin t\u00f6rm\u00e4sin kauniiseen villakankaaseen, muistaakseni Nextiiliss\u00e4. Kangasta oli hintsunlaisesti, joten malli piti valita sen mukaan. Selasin inspiraatiokuvia pitk\u00e4\u00e4n, kunnes silmiini osui t\u00e4ss\u00e4 vanhassa blogissa 30-luvun vaatekatalogin sivu. Keskell\u00e4 oleva oranssi pusakka j\u00e4i&#8230; <\/p>\n<div class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=12688\">Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12701,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Sporty Spring jacket","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[18,27,13],"tags":[68,104,126,92],"class_list":{"0":"post-12688","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-asut","8":"category-evilompelee","9":"category-vaatehtimo","10":"tag-outfits","11":"tag-projects","12":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","13":"tag-style","15":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sportyjacket5.jpg?fit=600%2C1084","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-3iE","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12688","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=12688"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12688\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12702,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12688\/revisions\/12702"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/12701"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=12688"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=12688"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=12688"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}