{"id":12514,"date":"2017-02-20T11:18:25","date_gmt":"2017-02-20T09:18:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=12514"},"modified":"2017-02-20T11:18:25","modified_gmt":"2017-02-20T09:18:25","slug":"empire-spencer-jakku-regency-spencer-jacket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=12514","title":{"rendered":"Empire spencer-jakku \/ Regency spencer jacket"},"content":{"rendered":"

En\u00e4\u00e4 alle viikko Kartanon talvip\u00e4iv\u00e4\u00e4n<\/a>\u00a0(t\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n muuten viimeinen p\u00e4iv\u00e4 ilmoittautua!)<\/strong><\/span>, joten valmistelut k\u00e4yv\u00e4t kuumimmillaan. Varastoista l\u00f6ytynyt puuvillasametin p\u00e4tk\u00e4 on muotoutunut lyhyeksi spencer-jakuksi. Kaavan pohjana k\u00e4ytin valmista, istuvaksi todettua jakun kaavaa (joka on osoittautunut enemm\u00e4n kuin k\u00e4tev\u00e4ksi pohjaksi kaikenlaisiin projekteihin)<\/strong><\/span>. Siirsin olkasaumat takakappaleen puolelle\u00a0ja k\u00e4\u00e4nsin sivukappaleiden saumat vinompaan, historiallisten pukujen tyypilliseen tapaan. Lis\u00e4sin hihoihin olalle rypytetyn puhvin ja lyhensin helman p\u00e4\u00e4ttym\u00e4\u00e4n heti rintojen alle. Jakku voisi olla viel\u00e4 lyhyempikin, mutta halusin ett\u00e4 taftipukuni koristenauha ei pilkota sielt\u00e4 alta joten en uskaltanut lyhent\u00e4\u00e4 enemp\u00e4\u00e4.<\/p>\n

Kiinnityksest\u00e4 halusin tehd\u00e4 mahdollisimman huomaamattoman joten ompelin jakkuun tuulilistallisen hakaskiinnityksen. Lenkkien p\u00e4\u00e4t piiloutuvat listan ja miehustan v\u00e4liin. Ihan helvetillist\u00e4 n\u00e4pr\u00e4yst\u00e4 muuten tuon ompelu. Ensin ommellaan hakaslenkit miehustan etureunaan, sitten neulataan lista paikoilleen. Merkit\u00e4\u00e4n hakasten reunat neuloin ja ommellaan kappaleet yhteen samalla kun yritet\u00e4\u00e4n olla rikkomatta koneen neulaa lenkkeihin. Pistojen pit\u00e4\u00e4 siis osua lenkkien v\u00e4leihin. Tarkkaa ja hidasta, mutta onnistuessaan lopputulos on todella siisti eiv\u00e4tk\u00e4 lenkit juuri n\u00e4y kun hakaset ovat kiinni. Vaatteen pit\u00e4\u00e4 olla kohtalaisen tyk\u00f6is\u00e4 ett\u00e4 hakaset pysyv\u00e4t sitten p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 kiinni, eiv\u00e4tk\u00e4 aukeile itsekseen.<\/p>\n

Koristeluiksi virkkasin mustasta hapsuny\u00f6rist\u00e4 ohutta nauhaa jonka silitin litte\u00e4ksi ja kiinnitin k\u00e4sinpistoin takasaumoihin ja hihoihin. Selk\u00e4\u00e4n tuli lis\u00e4ksi viel\u00e4 tupsu roikkumaan. Olin aikonut tehd\u00e4 tupsut my\u00f6s hihoihin, mutta mietin viel\u00e4 ett\u00e4 ovatko ne hankalat k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Less than a week to the Manor house Winter Day<\/a> living history event (today is the last the to fill\u00a0the attending form)<\/strong><\/span>, so preparations are on. I found black velvet from my stash, so I turned it into spencer jacket. For a pattern I used my old good fitted jacket pattern (has been proven very usefull for several different project)<\/strong><\/span> as a base. I moved shoulder seams towards the back and angled back side seams, as it’s typical in historical garments. I also added gathering on the shoulder and shortened the hem quite a bit. Jacket could be even shorter, but I didn’t want that my taffeta gown decoration below bust shows.<\/p>\n

I wanted the attachment in front to be as invisible as possible so I created hook and loop closure. Loop ends are hidden inside the seam. It was absolute torment to make. First hand sew the loops on the edge of the bodice. Then pin narrow, previously made “wind flap” on top of the loops. Mark loops with pins. Machine stitch pieces together when trying to avoid breaking the machine needle on the metal loops at the same time. Each stitch has to carefully go exactly between the hooks. It is very slow but looks very tidy when properly made. Loops don’t really show at all when garment is closed. Jacket has to be somewhat snug so hooks don’t open on their own.<\/p>\n

For decoration I made narrow crochet ribbons, which I ironed and hand stitched in place on back seams and sleeves. I added also little tassel on the back. I was originally planning putting tassels also on sleeves, but I’m wondering if they are impractical.<\/p>\n

\u00a0\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tupsu t\u00e4h\u00e4n vai ei? \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nTassel or not?<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Piilotetut hakaslenkkien per\u00e4t. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nHidden loops.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Pahoittelen suttuisia kuvia (taas!). P\u00e4iv\u00e4t vaan eiv\u00e4t tunnu olevan<\/strong><\/span>
\nriitt\u00e4v\u00e4n valoisia tummien asujen kuvaamiseen n\u00e4in talviaikaan.
\nJa sametti nyt on kamala kuvattava muutenkin. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nI apoligize blurry photos (again!). Days just aren’t long and bright<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nenough in the Winter for photographying dark clothes. And
\nvelvet is bad enough to photograph anyway.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

En\u00e4\u00e4 alle viikko Kartanon talvip\u00e4iv\u00e4\u00e4n\u00a0(t\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n muuten viimeinen p\u00e4iv\u00e4 ilmoittautua!), joten valmistelut k\u00e4yv\u00e4t kuumimmillaan. Varastoista l\u00f6ytynyt puuvillasametin p\u00e4tk\u00e4 on muotoutunut lyhyeksi spencer-jakuksi. Kaavan pohjana k\u00e4ytin valmista, istuvaksi todettua jakun kaavaa (joka on osoittautunut enemm\u00e4n kuin k\u00e4tev\u00e4ksi pohjaksi kaikenlaisiin projekteihin). Siirsin olkasaumat takakappaleen puolelle\u00a0ja k\u00e4\u00e4nsin sivukappaleiden saumat vinompaan, historiallisten pukujen tyypilliseen tapaan. Lis\u00e4sin hihoihin olalle rypytetyn puhvin… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12520,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Regency spencer jacket","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,228,7,150],"tags":[151,253,104,270,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-12514","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-evilompelee","8":"category-historianelavoitys","9":"category-projektit","10":"category-pukuhistoria","11":"tag-costume-history","12":"tag-living-history","13":"tag-projects","14":"tag-regency","15":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","17":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/spencer4.jpg?fit=600%2C508","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-3fQ","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12514","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=12514"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12514\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12523,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12514\/revisions\/12523"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/12520"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=12514"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=12514"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=12514"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}