{"id":12218,"date":"2016-12-06T17:16:32","date_gmt":"2016-12-06T15:16:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=12218"},"modified":"2016-12-12T22:18:30","modified_gmt":"2016-12-12T20:18:30","slug":"612-itsenaisyyspaiva-independence-day-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=12218","title":{"rendered":"6\/12 Itsen\u00e4isyysp\u00e4iv\u00e4 \/ Independence Day"},"content":{"rendered":"

Olen monena vuonna postannut itsen\u00e4isyysp\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 vanhoja valokuvia, mutta t\u00e4n\u00e4 vuonna p\u00e4\u00e4tin poikketa tavasta ja kertoa teille kansallispuvustani. Olen perinyt puvun mummultani joka on itse ommellut sen, joskus 80-luvun alussa, mik\u00e4li muistan oikein. Alkuper\u00e4inen tarvikepakettikin on viel\u00e4 tallessa, joka onkin k\u00e4tev\u00e4\u00e4 jos my\u00f6hemmin tarvitsee esim korjata jotain. Olen jo aiemmin hy\u00f6dynt\u00e4nytkin tarvikepaketin j\u00e4mi\u00e4, sill\u00e4 olen mummuani pidempi joten pusero tahtoi k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 nousta yl\u00f6s hameen alta. Pidensin sit\u00e4 noin 10 sentill\u00e4 ja nyt se toimii paljon paremmin.<\/p>\n

Puku on Kaukolan malli ja se on tosiaan mummuni ompelema. Se on ainoa Suomen kymmenist\u00e4 erilaisista kansallispuvuista, jossa liivin koristelu on ep\u00e4symmetrinen. Kaukolan puku on alunperin koottu ja julkaistu U.T. Sireliuksen Suomen kansallispukuja-vihossa vuonna 1921. Malli on tarkistettu vuonna 1986, mutta en ole ihan varma onko t\u00e4m\u00e4 puku tehty ennen vai j\u00e4lkeen tarkistuksen, luulen kuitenkin ett\u00e4 kyseess\u00e4 on tarkistamaton malli.<\/p>\n

Kansallispukuihin kuuluu perinteisesti\u00a0jokinlainen p\u00e4\u00e4hine. Nuorilla tyt\u00f6ill\u00e4 se on yleens\u00e4 s\u00e4pp\u00e4li, eli nauha joka kiedotaan p\u00e4\u00e4n ymp\u00e4ri. Aikuisilla naisilla p\u00e4\u00e4hine on yleens\u00e4 peitt\u00e4v\u00e4mpi myssy, tanu tai huntu. Kaukolan pukuun kuuluu aikuiselle naiselle laskostettu huntu joka kiinnitet\u00e4\u00e4n er\u00e4\u00e4nlaisen donitsimaisen syker\u00f6n p\u00e4\u00e4lle (omista hiuksista tehdyn jos niiss\u00e4 on riitt\u00e4v\u00e4sti pituutta)<\/strong><\/span>. Omassa puvussani hieman virheellisesti on mukana s\u00e4pp\u00e4li. Ep\u00e4ilen ett\u00e4 mummu on j\u00e4tt\u00e4nyt hunnun tilaamatta hinnan vuoksi, s\u00e4pp\u00e4li on varmasti ollut edullisempi vaihtoehto. Tosin Facebookin Kansallispuku-ryhm\u00e4ss\u00e4 joku tiesi kertoa, ett\u00e4 80-luvulla huntujen ohjeita ei ollut oikein saatavillakaan. Olen suunnitellut itse tekev\u00e4ni pukuun hunnun, vaikka se vaatiikin v\u00e4h\u00e4n vaivaa laskostuksen vuoksi.<\/p>\n

Olen blogissakin usein kirjoittanut siit\u00e4, ett\u00e4 en oikeastaan pid\u00e4 tummansinisest\u00e4 v\u00e4rist\u00e4, siksi t\u00e4m\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n kansallispuku ei omaan silm\u00e4\u00e4ni ole ihan niit\u00e4 kaikkein kauneimpia. Mutta t\u00e4ytyyh\u00e4n sit\u00e4 kuitenkin k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 kun sellainen kerran on. Jos saisin valita ihan vapaasti mink\u00e4 tahansa kansallispuvun, hinnasta viis niin valitsisin jonkun muun kuin sinisen. Pid\u00e4n kovasti mm. Lopen puvusta<\/a> joka muistuttaa hyvin pitk\u00e4lle historiallisia empire-pukuja. Muita suosikkejani ovat Haapaj\u00e4rvi &\u00a0Reisj\u00e4rvi, Jokioinen, Suur-Ii, \u00a0Valkeala ja Puulavesi. En tunne hirve\u00e4sti yhteenkuuluvuutta mink\u00e4\u00e4n tietyn paikkakunnan pukuun, vaan menen enemm\u00e4n esteettisten mieltymysten mukaan, mutta my\u00f6s uuden kotipaikkakunnan Mouhij\u00e4rven puku<\/a> on oikein siev\u00e4. Kaikista kansallispuvuista ei ole edes kuvia saatavilla vaan niit\u00e4 pit\u00e4\u00e4 tutkia Kansallispukukeskuksessa. Kansallispuvuista kiinnostuneille suosittelen iltalukemistoksi Suomalaiset kansallispuvut-sivustoa<\/a> sek\u00e4 kansallispukuja ker\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4n tuttavani Kansallispuvussa-blogia<\/a>. H\u00e4nell\u00e4 on niit\u00e4 jo yli 70!<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

On many Independence Day before I have posted old photos, but this year I decided to break that habbit and tell you about my national costume. In Finland we got lots of them. They vary depending on the location and it’s also very serious business, so some of the dresses are inspected styles and some are older, not so official styles. All still very wearable, when ever you feel like wearing one. My national costume or folk costume if you prefer, is inherited from my Grandmother, who made it herself. I still have the original package for the materials, which is helpfull if I need to repair the blouse of embroidery etc. I have already made the blouse longer because I am taller than my Granny, so shirt was a bit short and was lifting up.<\/p>\n

Dress style is from Kaukola area. It is the only national costume of all dozens and dozens with asymmetrical decoration on the vest. It was first put together and published in 1921 by U. T. Sirelius in the Finnish National Costumes-booklet. Style has been re-checked in 1986, when they made slight alterations to the style, according to the museum pieces. I’m not sure if this dress was made before or after re-checking, but I think might be done before\u00a0the re-check.<\/p>\n

Traditionally women wear some sort of headdress with the national costume. Girls usually have ribbons tied around the head, called s\u00e4pp\u00e4li. Adult women have more covering headdresses like embroidered caps, lace decorations or veils. Kaukolan puku should have pleated veil, which is attached on donut-shaped\u00a0hair bun (or faux bun if own hair is too short)<\/strong><\/span> ontop of the head. On my dress there is no veil but the ribbons for young girl. I think my Granny might have ordered the dress without veil, because it’s more expensive than ribbons. Allthough, someone in the FB group for Finnish national costumes mentioned that in the 80’s there wasn’t really patterns or instructions for making veils for this dress. I am planning on making a veil for it though, hopefully during next year. It is a bit tricky because it is going to be linen and need pleating every time after a wash.<\/p>\n

I have often written in the blog about my dislike of dark blue colour. That’s why this costume is not the pretties one in my opinion. But since I have it, I am going to wear it. If I could choose which ever costume from all of them (and there is loads!)<\/strong><\/span> I would choose something not so blue. I like a lot of Loppi dress<\/a>, it reminds a lot of Regency dress. My other favourites are Haapaj\u00e4rvi and Reisj\u00e4rvi, Jokioinen, Suur-Ii, Valkeala and Puulavesi. I don’t really feel connected to any specific location, I’d rather choose based on my aesthetic preferances, but also the dress from our new home, Mouhij\u00e4rvi<\/a>, looks quite pretty. There is so many national costumes that there isn’t even photos of them all, one\u00a0would have to contact National Costume Center\u00a0to investigate them all. But if you are interested, you can find out more in Suomalaiset kansallispuvut-page<\/a> (unfortunately only in finnish)<\/strong><\/span> and from the blog Kansallispuvussa<\/a>, which is written by my friend who collects national costumes. She already has over 70 of them!<\/p>\n

\"kaukolanpuku1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

En l\u00f6yt\u00e4nyt valkoisia sukkiani mist\u00e4\u00e4n muuton j\u00e4ljilt\u00e4<\/strong><\/span>
\njoten t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa sitten mustilla sukilla. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nWhite socks should be worn with this costume, but I could not<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nfind my white socks from anywhere, hiding after the moving I suppose.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"kaukolanpuku3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Pienet liivin tupsut. \/ Little pompoms on the vest.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"kaukolanpuku2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"kaukolanpuku4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Esiliinan pitsille pujoteltua kirjontaa. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nEmbroidery on lace on the apron.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"kaukolanpuku5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"kaukolanpuku6\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Puseron hihojen koristepitsi\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nDecorative lace on sleeves.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"kaukolanpuku7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Helman reunapalmikko. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nDecorative hem.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"kaukolanpuku8\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Puvun tinanastakoristeinen s\u00e4pp\u00e4li on tekokuitunauhasta tehty. Nykyisin<\/strong><\/span>
\nsuositellaan verkaista nauhaa josta roikkuvat silkkinauhat. Omaan
\nk\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6ni aion tehd\u00e4 sen pliseeratun pellavahunnun. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nS\u00e4pp\u00e4li-ribbons that came with the dress are polyamide ribbons. Now<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nthe recommendation is that ribbons would be wool in the middle (where<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nthe tin decorations are) and silk ribbons on both ends. For my own
\nuse (instead of these ribbons) I’m going to make pleated linen veil.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Olen monena vuonna postannut itsen\u00e4isyysp\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 vanhoja valokuvia, mutta t\u00e4n\u00e4 vuonna p\u00e4\u00e4tin poikketa tavasta ja kertoa teille kansallispuvustani. Olen perinyt puvun mummultani joka on itse ommellut sen, joskus 80-luvun alussa, mik\u00e4li muistan oikein. Alkuper\u00e4inen tarvikepakettikin on viel\u00e4 tallessa, joka onkin k\u00e4tev\u00e4\u00e4 jos my\u00f6hemmin tarvitsee esim korjata jotain. Olen jo aiemmin hy\u00f6dynt\u00e4nytkin tarvikepaketin j\u00e4mi\u00e4, sill\u00e4 olen mummuani… <\/p>\n

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